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•;'tm HK &.-si .es>-~ MHEJVRV PJLAIXDEALER, EDEfflCK PALMER «6>- CfiAmjJ JOmtK/RJ oOf*S » H0i¥< ILL *v> , >',fwy •• v^i ^ ' V . ' > ! / v , L V A ' ? ' ' ' V • • • • ' • • In this story Mr. Palmer, the Moied war cvrfciporwont, hSS p#brte «d war aa he has seen it on many (battlefields, and between many ns- 'iic-ns. His Intimate know'edja of armies and armaments has enabled jhlm to produce a graphic picture off the greatest of all wars, and hit knowledge of conditions has led hint to prophesy an end of armed conflicts. No man is better quali­ fied to write the story of the final 'world war than Mr. Palmer, and fee has handled his subject with a hand. CHAPTER I. « A Speck tn the Sky. It was Mart* who first saw the speck the sky. Her outcry &nd her bound from her seat at the teatable brought Imt mother and Colonel Wester ling sifter her onto the lawn, where they became motionless figures, screening tbeir eyes with their hands. The new­ estt and most wonderful thing in the %orid at the time was this speck ap- psaring above the irregular horizon of -the Brown range, in view of a land­ scape that centuries of civilisation had fertilized and cultivated and formed. At the base of the range ran a line •Of white stone posts, placed by inter­ national commissions of surveyors to tho nicety of an inch's variation. In the vary direction of the speck's flight st spur of foot-hills extended into the plain that stretched away to the Gray range, distinct at the distance of thirty miles in the bright afternoon light. Faithful to their part in refus­ ing to climb, the white posts circled wound the spur, hugging the levels. In the lap of the spur was La Tir, (be old town, and on the other side at the boundary lay South La Tlr, the new town. Through both ran the dusty .ribbon of a road, drawn etralght across the plain and over the glistening thread of a river. On its way to the jpass of the Brown range it skirted the garden of the Gallands, which rose in terraces to a seventeenth-century ^aonsn overlooking the old town from its •outskirts. They were such a town, such A road, such a landscape as you may <aee on many European frontiers. The <2hristian people Hvho lived in the re- 4(lon were like the Christian people .you know if you look for the realities •of human nature under the surface dif­ ferences of language and habits. Beyond the house rose the ruins of a waatle, its tower still intact. Marta al- . says referred to the castle as the baron; for In her girlhood she had a •way of personifying all Inanimate things. If the caetle walls were cov- •ered with hoar frost, she said that the fcaron was shivering; if the wind tore around the tower, Bhe said that toe baron was groaning over the demo- 1 cratic tendencies of the time. On such > * summer afternoon as this, the baron was growing old gracefully, at peace , With his enemies. | Centuries older than the speck in I the eky was the baron; but the pass | Jroad was many more, countless more, j •Asntaxies older than he. It had been j -a trail for tribes long before Roman Jegiotis won a victory in the pass, which was acclaimed an imperial tri­ umph. To hold the pass was to hold 4he range. All the blood shed there "Would makea red'river, Inundating the H>lain. "Beside the old baron, we are par­ venus," Marta would say. "And what 4 parvenu the baron would have been the Roman aristocrat!" "Our family is old enough--none #lder in the province!" Mm. Galland yjfrould reply. "Marta, how your mind 4froes wander! I'd get a headache Just ^Contemplating the things you are able to think of in five minutes." $£?/• The flret Galland had built a house • 7«n the land that his king had given ' Aim for one of the most brilliant feats of arms in the history of the pass. Even the tower, raised to the glory •*. Of an older family whose descendants, it any survived, were unaware of their .JjjUneage, had become known as the i -"^DaHand tower. The Gallands were > rooted In the soil of the frontierr-they *r-; ' / • were used to having war's hot breath $'r Mow past their door; they were at ,! home in the language and customs of two peoples; theirs was a peculiar tra- y' «ditiou, which Marta had absorbed with f// feer first breath. Town and plain and \ -'t/^iraBge were the first vista of landscape f?- that she had seen; doubtless they • 4'K 'would be the last aT/./ One or two afternoons a week Col- ^ . .jroel Hqdworth Westerllng, commander the regimental post of the Grays on V ^ the other side of the white peats, . ; , stretched his privilege of crossing the frontier and appeared for tea at the Ctellands. It meant a pleasant half- j;'" bour breaking a long walk, a relief from garrison surroundings, and tn view of the order, received that morn- 'waa to be a farewell call. ^ had found Mrs. Galland an agree- ' able reflection of an aristocratic past fyf. p* ' The daughter had what he defined 6*% -vaguely m girlish piquancy. He found 'S*$.-•}•*t amusing to try to answer her un- visual questions; he liked the variety ** ^er inventive mind, with Its flashes £ J® downright matter-of-factness. rif i ; Not until tea was served did he men- tk» his new assignment; he was going Ip . *ke general staff at the capital. Mrs. <fcUland murmured her congratulations j^S?, | In conventional fashion. ^ >• Maria's chair was drawn back from j the table. She leaned forward in a ;! favorite position of hers when she was intensely Interested, with hande clasped over her knee, which her mother always found aggravatingly to in boyish. She had a mass of lustrous black hair and a mouth rather large •In repose, but capable of changing curves of emotion. Her large, dark •eyee, luminously deep under long lashes, if not the rest of her face, had Her head was bent, the lashes forming a line with her brow now, and her eyes had the still flame of wonder that they had when she was looking all around a thing and through it to find what it meant. "Some day you will be chief of staff, the head of Gray army!" she suddenly exclaimed. Westerllng started as if he had been surprised in a secret. Then he flushed slightly. "Why?" he asked with forced care­ lessness. "Your reasons? They're more Interesting than your prophecy." "Because you have the will to be," she said without emphasis, in the im­ personal revelations of thottght. "You want power. You have ambition." He looked the picture of It, with hi& square jaw, his well-moulded head set close to the shoulders on a sturdy neck, his even teeth showing as his Hps parted in an unconscious smile. "Marta, Marta! She is--is so ex­ plosive," Mrs. Galland remarked apolo­ getically to the colonel. "I asked for her reasons. I brought it on myself--and It is not a bad com­ pliment," he replied. Indeed, he had never received one so thrilling. His smile, a emile well pleased with itself, remained as Mrs. Galland began to talk of other things, and its linger­ ing satisfaction disappeared only with Marta's cry at sight of the speck in the sky over the Brown range. She was out on the lawn before the others had risen from their seats. "An aeroplane! Hurry!" she called. How fast tie speck grew! Naturally, the business of war, watching for every invention that might serve its ends* was the first patron of flight. Captain Arthur Lan- stron, pupil of a pioneer aviator, had been warned by him and by the chief of staff of the Browne, who was look­ ing on, to keep In a circle close to the ground. But he w$e doinsr so well I m. •ji-VTt.:'* 'a. beauty. "It Must Be Bandaged--I'm Not Q ing to Faint." that he thought he would try rising a little higher. The summits of the range shot under him, unfolding a variegated rug of landscape. He dipped the planes slightly, intending to follow the range's descent and again they answered to his desire. The tower loomed before him as suddenly aa if it had been shot up out of the earth. He must turn, and quickly, to avoid disaster; he must turn, or he would be across the white poets in the enemy's country. "Oh!" groaned Marta and Mrs. Gal­ land together. In an agony of suspense they saw the fragile creation of oloth and bam­ boo and metal, which had seemed as secure as an albatross riding on the lap of a steady wind, dip far over, careen back in the other direction, and then the whirring noise that had grown with its flight ceased. It was no longer a thing of winged life, defying the law of gravity, but a thing dead, falling un­ der* the burden of a living weight. "The engine has stopped!" exclaimed Westerllng, any trace of emotion in his obeervant imperturbability that of satisfaction that the machine was the enemy's. He waa thinking of the ex­ hibition, not of the man in the ma­ chine. Marta was thinking of the maa who was about to die. She rushed down the terrace steps wildly, as if her going and her agonised prayer could avert the Inevitable. The plane, descending, skimmed the garden wall and passed out of sight. She heard a thud, a crack­ ling of braces, a ripping of cloth, but no cry. Westerllng had started after her, ex­ claiming, "This is a case for first aid!" while Mrs. Galland, taking the steps as fast ae she could, brought up the rear. Through the gateway in the gai^ den wall could be seen the shoulders of a young officer, a streak of red coursing down his cheek, rising from the wreck. An inarticulate sob of re­ lief broke from Marta's throat, fol­ lowed by quick gasps of breath. Cap­ tain Arthur Lanetron was looking Into the startled eyes of a young girl that seemed to reflect his own emotions of the moment after having shared those he ,had in the air. "I flew! I flew clear over the nUige, at any rate!" he said. "And 1'nj alive. I managed to hold her so she missed the wall and made an easy bump." He got one foot free of the wreck and that leg was all right. She shared his elation. Then he found that the other was uninjured, just ae she cried In distress: "But your hand--K>h, your hand!" His left hand hung limp from the wrist, cut, mashed and bleeding. Its nerves numbed, he had not as yot felt any pain from the Injury. Now he re­ garded It in a kind of awakening stare of realization of a deformity to come. "Wool-gathering again!" he mut­ tered to himself crossly,. Then, seeing that she had turned white, he thrust the disgusting thing behind his back and twinged with the movement. The pain was arriving. "It must be bandaged! I have a handkerchief!" she begged. "I'm not going to faint or anything like that 1" "Only bruised--and It's the left. " I am glad it was not the right," he re­ plied. Westerllng arrived and Joined Marta in offers of assistance just aa they heard the prolonged honk of an automobile demanding the right of "way at top speed In the direction of the pass. "Thank you, but they're coming for me," eaid Lanstron to Westerllng as he glanced up the road. Westerllng was looking at the wreck. Lanstron, who recognized him as an officer, though in mufti, kicked a bit of the torn cloth o^er some apparatus to hide it. At this Westerllng smiled faintly. Then Lanstron saluted as of­ ficer to officer might salute across the white posts, giving his name and re­ ceiving In return Weeterling's. They made a contrast, these two men, the colonel of the Grays, swart and sturdy, his physical vitality so evi­ dent, and the captain of the Browns, some seven or eight years the junior, bareheaded, in dishevelled fatigue uniform, his lips twitching, his slender body quivering with the pain that he could not control, while hiB rather bold forehead and delicate* sensitive features suggested a man of nerve and nerves who might have left experi­ ments in a laboratory for an adventure in the air. There was a kind of chal­ lenge in their glances; the challenge of an ancient feud of their peoples; of the professional rivalry of polite duellists. Lanstron's slight figure seemed to express the weaker number of the three • million soldiers of the Browns; Weaterllng's bulkier one, the four million five hundred thousand of the Grays. "You had a narrow Squeak and you m&de a very snappy recovery at the last second," said Westerllng, passing & compliment across the white posts. "That's in the line of duty fot you and me, isn't it?" Lanstron replied, his voice thick with pain as he forced a smile. There was no pose in his fortitude. ; He was evidently disgusted with him­ self over the whole business, and he turned to the group of threb officers and a civilian who alighted from a big Brown army automobile as if he were prepared to have them say their worst. They seemed between the lmpulee of reprimanding and embraciifg him. "I hope that you are not surprised at the result," said the oldest of the of­ ficers, a man of late middle age, rather affectionately and teasingly. He wore a single order on his breast, a plain Iron cross, and the insignia of his rank was that of a field-marshal. "Not now. I should be again, sir," said Lanstron, looking full at the field- marshal In the appeal of one asking for another chance. "I was wool-gath­ ering. But I Bhall not wool-gather next time. I've got a reminder more urgent than a string tied around my finger." "Yes, that hand needs immediate at­ tention," said the doctor. He and an­ other officer began helping Lanstron Into the automobile. Good-by!" he called to the young girl, who waa still watching him with big, sympathetic eyes. "I am coming back Boon and laud in the field, there, and when I do, I'll claim a bunch of flowers." "Do! What fun I" ebe cried, as the car started. "The fleld-xnarshal was Partow, their chief of staff?" Westerllng asked. "Yes," said Mrs. Galland. "I remem­ ber when he was a young Infantry offi­ cer before the last war, before he had won the iron cross and become so great He was not of an army family --a doctor's son, but very clever and skilful." "Getting a little old for his work!" remarked Westerllng. "But apparent­ ly he is keen enough to take a per­ sonal Interest In anything new." "Wasn't It thrilling and--and ter­ rible!" Marta exclaimed. "Yes, like war at our own door again," replied Mrs. Galland, who knew war. She had seen war raging on the pass road. "Lanstron, the young man said his name was," she resumed after a pause. "No doubt the Lan£trone of Thorbourg. An old family and many of them in the army." "The way he refused to give to--that was fine!" said Marta. Westerllng, who had been engrossed in his own thoughts, looked up. "Courage L-. the cheapest thing an army has! . You can get hundreds of young officers who are glad to take a risk of that kind. The thing is," and his fingers pressed in on the palm of his hand in a pounding gesture of the forearm, "to direct and command- head wort--organization!" ( "If war should come again--" Marta began. Mrs. Galland nudged her. A Brown never mentioned war to an offi­ cer of the Grays; it was not at all in the accepted proprieties. But Marta rushed on: "So many would be en­ gaged that It would be m?re horrible than ever." "You cannot make omelets without breaking ege*," Westerllng answered with suave finality. J "The aeroplane will take its place as an auxiliary," he went on, hlB( mind still running on the theme qf her prophecy, which the meeting with Lan- btron bad quickened. "But war will, «« «ver, ha won by the bayonet thai takes and holds a position. We shall have no 'miracle victories, no--" There he broke off. He did not ac­ company Mrs. Galland and Marta back to the house, but made his adieus at the garden-gate. "I'm sure that I shall never marry a soldier!" Marta burst out as she and her mother yere ascending the steps. CHAPTER IL Ten Years Lsto. His Excellency the chief, of staff of the Grays was seldom in his office. His Excellency had years, rank, prestige. The breast cf his uniform sagged with the weight of his decorations. He ap­ peared for the army at great func­ tions; hie picture was in the shop* windows. Hedworth Westerllng, the new vice-chief of staff, was content with this arrangement. His years' would not permit him the supreme honor. This was for a figurehead, while he had the power. His appointment to the staff ten years ago had given him the field be wanted, the capital Itself, for the play of his abilities. His vital energy, his impressive personality, his gift for courting the influences that counted, whether man's or woman's, his astute readiness in stooping to some meas­ ures that were in keeping with the times but not with army precedent, had won for him the goal of his ambi­ tion. He had passed over the heads of older men, whom many thought his betters, rather ruthlessly. Those who would serve loyally he drew around him; those who were bitter he crowd­ ed out of his way. In the adjoining room, occupied by Westerllng, the walls were hung with the silhouettes of infantrymen, such as you see at maneuvers, in different positions of firing, crouching In shal­ low trenches, standing In deep trenches, or lying flat on the stomach on level earth. Another silhouette, that of an infantryman running, was peppered with white points in arms and legs and parts of the body that were not vital, to show in how many places a man may be hit with a small- caliber bullet and still survive. In this day of universal European conception, if Westerllng were to win in war it would be with five millions-- five hundred thousand more than when he faced a young Brown officer over the wreck of an aeroplane--including the reserves; each man running, firing, crouching, as was the figure oiythe wall, and trying to give more of the white points that peppered the sll- hbuette than he received. Now Turcas, the assistant vice-chief of staff, and Bouchard, chief of the di­ vision of intelligence, standing on either side of Westerling's deck, await­ ed his decisions on certain matters which they had brought to his atten­ tion. Both were older than Wester­ llng, Turcas by ten and Bouchard by fifteen years. Turcas had been strongly urged In inner army circles for the place that Westerllng had won, but his manner and his ability to court influence were againet him. A lath of a man and stiff as a lath, pale, with thin, tightly-drawn lips, quiet, steel-gray eyes, a tracery of blue veins showing oi^his full temples, he suggested the ascetic no less than the soldier, while his incisive brevity of speech, flavored now and then with pungent humor, without any inflection In his dry voice, was in keeping with his appearance. He arrived with the clerks in the morning and frequently remained after they were gone. As a roaster of detail Westerllng regarded him as an invaluable assistant, with certain limitations, which were those of the pigeonhole and the treadmill. As for Bouchard, nature had meant him to be a wheel-horse. He had never had any hope of being chief of staff. Hawk-eyed, with a great beak nose and iron-gray hair, intensely and sol­ emnly serious,- lacking a sense of humor, ne would nave looked at home with Tils big, bony hands gripping a broadsword bilt and his lank; bod;" clothed In chain armor, lie had e mastiff's devotion to its master for hie 'chief. v • . "Since Lanstron became chief of in-' telllgence of the Browns information seems to have stopped,"" said Wester­ llng, but not complaining!?. He appre-. dated Bouchard's loyalty. - f " "Yes, they eay he evea Imritoi hi* laundry bills, he is so <Sareful,"' Bou^ chard replied. "But that we ought to know," Wes­ terllng proceeded, referring very in­ sistently to a secret of the Browns which had baffled Bouchard. "Try a woman," he went on with that terse, hard directness which reflected one of his sides. "There is nobody like a woman for that sort of thing. Spend enough to get the right woman." Turcas and Bouchard exchanged a glance, which rose suggertively from the top of the head of the seated vice- chief of staff. Turcas smiled slightly, while Bouchard was graven as usual. "You could hardly reach Lanstron though you spent a queen's ransom." said Bouchard in his literal fashion. "I should say not!" Westerllng ex­ claimed. "No doubt about Lanstron's being all ther&! I saw him ten years ago after his first aeroplane flight un­ der conditions that proved it. How­ ever. he must have susceptible subor­ dinates." # . "We'll set all the machinery ws have to work to find one, sir," Bou chard replied. "Another thing, we must dismiss any idea that they are concealing either artillery or dirigibles or planes that we do not know of." continued. Wester­ llng. "That is a figment of our appre­ hensions. The fact that we find no truth in the rumors proves that there is none. Such things are too important to be concealed by one army from an­ other." "Lanstron certainly cannot carry them In his pockets," remarked Tur­ cas. "Still, we must be sure," he added thoughtfully, more to himself than to Westerllng* who had already turned his' attention: to a document which Turcas laid on the desk. "The 128th Regiment has been or­ dered to South La Tlr, but no order yet given for the 132d, whose place it takes," he explained. " "Let it remain for the present!" Westering replied. After they had withdrawn, the look that passed between Turcas and Bou­ chard was a pointed question. The 132d to remain at South La Tlr! Was there something more than "newspa­ per talk" in this latest diplomatic crisis between the Grays and the Browns? Westerllng alone was in the confidence of the premier of late. Any exchange of ideas between the two subordinates would be fruitless sur­ mise and against the very Instinct of staff secrecy, where every man knew only his work and asked about no one else's. Westerllng ran through the papers that Turcas had prepared for, him. If Turcas had written them, Westerllng knew that they were properly done. Having cleared his desk Into the hands of his executive clerk, he looked at the clock. It had barely turned four. He picked up the final staff report of ob­ servations on the late Balkan cam­ paign, Just printed in book form, glanced at it and laid It aside. Already be knew the few lessons afforded by this war "done on the cheap," with limited equipment and over bad roads. No dirigibles had been used and few planes. It was no criterion, except in the effect of the fire of the new pattern guns, for the conflict of vast masses of highly trained men against vast masses of highly trained men, with rapid transportation over good roads, com-, plete equipment, thorough organiza­ tion, backed by generous resources. In the cataclysm of two great European powers. (TO BE CONTINUED.) Worthy, But Denied Honor . #-- Publio Benefactors Who Mads Dis­ coveries in Thslr Kitchsns Ars Unknown to Fame. Among the Bublime sum of human Ignorance may be mentioned the gen­ eral indifference to our domestic he­ roes, the men who have made or marred our famous dishes. Keen to honor with trumpet and song the man who dares greatly with sword and pis­ tol, yet are we forgetful of the worthy who first discovered, say, the Irish stew, says a writer in the Seattle Post Intelligencer. Surely a nation is forgetful of its great when this name is unknown and unhonored by worldwide festivi­ ties. And what of him who first braved the ortion and detected Its cu­ linary qualities? His memory has per­ ished. Would It not be a beautiful thing if we could meditate with grate­ ful regard upon the man who ate the first oyster? We are inclined to harp too much upon the spectacular and ar^ prone to slight the great ones whose self-sacrifice has made possible our domestic supper Joys. When man first mixed his mulligan did not the whole tribe put on sackcloth and ashes and wait with dismal foreboding for news of his demise by explosion or expansion of deadly poisoning or something? Things that are simple Joys to US must have been historic landmarks to the age of their Inventors. Why Is nothing done to keep green the mem­ ory of 'the doughty zinc-stomached Btalwarts? There should be a fitting chronicle, thus revealing to us of later days exactly what moved them to their ungrateful tasks; why, presum­ ing them to be happy men, they should have felt called to place their life In jeopardy for the cause of the epi­ curean? Possibly it ts something that comes to a chosen few, spirits otherwise cast down and scaired with losing battles,; i perhaps the stew came to Its originator in a vision during the night watches, and he arose and mixed up everything be could find and took It, thinking he would commit suicide, and instead it made him fat and happy. But at best we can only speculate, for of records there Is none. ELECTRICITY IN RAIN DROPS German Scientist Hss Measured the Charge--Describes Results of His Invsstlgstlon. Rain drops are almost always charged with electricity. The charge is often positive, rarely negative Many observers have measured the charge approximately and made it from 0.000,000.000,000,000,01 to 0.000, 000.000,000,001 amperes per square centimetre. Prof. P. Herath of Kiel describes in the Revue Hlectrique the experiments by which he has meas­ ured them. He received the rain on a fine me- talllo cloth 25 metres square insulat­ ed and attached to a galvanometer in a cellar. The galvanometer .registered photographically. Among the tacts he proves are these: Rains with a constantly positive charge are much more frequent than those that change to a negative. The passage from a positive to a negative charge corresponds to a momentary cessation of the shower. The quantl ty of positive electricity brought by the rain is fifteen times greater than that of the negative. The positive currents in a steady rainfall are about 0.000.000,000.000,000,1 amperes pel square centimetre; the negative cur rents never exceed 0.000,000,000,000 001 amperes per square centimetre. •a&BPARDINB SCHOOL GIRL'9 WARDROBE NEEDS MOST CAREFUL SELECTION. Costly » Inexpensive, ^tte - Main Thing is That Articles Provided . ' Are of ths Right Kind ani- 8uitabls. \ ?^ " ft*.; f ' How costly or inexpensive the clothes which the young girl will take to boarding school should be must depend somewhat upejo the clothes allowance of each1 individual girl, but even more Impor­ tant is the ques­ tion of the rules of the school that she is about to a t t e n d . S o m e schools are very strict as to the simplicity of the pupils' dress, and others are quite liberal, leaving much to the choice of the scholar. Starting with underclothes you will need one-half dozen pairs of s t o c k i n g s . F o r everyday wear lisle thread will be more satisfac­ tory than silk, and for dressy 'wear an extra pair of white and anoth- Black Gstin and er of black silk Plaid Serge. tnay be added. One-half dozen undershirts, six pairs of drawers, six corset covers, three petticoats, three pairs of shoes, a pair of slippers, a long kimono, two pairs of gloves, two hats,(a dark coat suit, a separate top coat, one or two serge dresses, an afternoon dress of silk, an informal dinner dress, and* an evening dress of some sheer material, six sep­ arate waists. The question i of laundry work 1b al­ ways one that is more or less difficult, and the fact that one is away at school does not solve the difficulty. There­ fore, everything that can be done to simplify the work will add much to one's peace of mind later on. All clothes must be plainly marked with one's initials, and if it is possible to have the whole name on each garment It is much better. This may be done with an Indelible pencil on a part of the garment where it will not be seen when- It i s w o r n , b u t where it will be easily seen by t h e l a u n d r e s s when she Is sort- 1 n g out the clothes to return them. In addition to marking the name on stock­ ings each pair should he marked so that they may be easily paired The new and well-liked crepes that are so much used |or under­ c l o t h e s s h o u l d surely be given place among the schoolgirls' lin­ gerie. These materials are Inexpen­ sive, wear well, and last, but not least in their favor, is the fact that when laundered they do not require Iron­ ing. That they c^n be sent from the laundry simply tubbed and dried, ne­ cessitates much less work, and natur­ ally incurs less expense, which most girls will take into consideration. It Is always nice to feel that one may be liberal in changing one's underclothes and If the cost of laundering can be reduced by having materials that do not require ironing then one may in­ dulge in the luxury of frequent changes. Over Char- in front, the fiat back and the large with slight curve at the side* fronts. 'The materials are soty aaid pliable and the boning light. The reason for the change of c4t of corsets is the semi-fitting character of the fashionable dresses and waists, which makes necessary corsets which hold the bust in a slightly higher posi­ tion. These dresses are not tight, but they are semi-fitted, with a dart over the bust to accentuate the curve, whether the garment fits snugly or otherwise. , These bodices are in several styles. Some are buttoned straight in front, with plain front sections which are darted and have under-arm gores. Others are in surplice effects, the crossover pieces being drawn tightly over the bust. High girdles are also in faBhion, which are of the same height all around, reaching a point, even with the base of the bust. Some­ times the girdle is drawn in at the front Again it may have buttons from the top of the lower edge; Over these fitted girdles the bust would fall loosely if it were not supported by the corset There are also low-bust corsets tof the slender and compact figures, which will wear garments suitable for them. There are also models designed es­ pecially for dancing, which have a shorter skirt in front and elastic in­ serts in the back, The tops of these are low, and there is an elastic band around the top edge from side to side. For the schoolgirl there are low and medium-sized corset waists with long corset skirts and front steel fasten­ ing. Thesqp corset waists so closely resemble the regular corset that young girls feel quite satisfied with them. SMARTNESS IN PARIS STYLES Two Fsscinatlng Dresses Intended for . Evening Wear Have Undenisble Qualities of Chic. From Paris one learns of an evening dress, a delicate mixture of rose- colored souffle de sole and tulle bead­ ed with brown, with tvhich was min­ gled brown chantilly lace. The cor­ sage, in brown souffle de tulle, was completed with bretelles consisting of large cabochons of brown glass, and a gold ribbon showed at the decollete. From the tunic of very novel shape hung garlands of brown beads, while the same beads were rolled around the tulle to form little winged sleeves. Another toilette, quite up to date in its mixture of styles, and also easy to wear, was of apricot taffeta, draped in. the manner we see in engravings of the eighteenth century. The corsage was a kind of wide flchu of <$au2e striped with gold and silver, which was taken round and crossed at the back below the hips. A corselet of silver threw Its transparence like a broad band around'the waist With this toilette the 1878 high coif, fure was worn, and in it was a knot of black velvet. Above the elbow, at the wrist, and at the neck, was repeated the same black velvet knot. Nothing could be more entirely feminine than these little details, which are alone sufficient to indicate the refinement of the wearer. SMART FALL COAT NEW CORSET WILL BE LIKED Better Adapted to the Figure Than Any That Has Been Designed Recently. The new high bust corset, which comes four Inches above the waist line and Is Just high enough to form a support tor the base of the bust, Is the corset to be worn with tho new style bodices. The top is just full enough for the flesh to rest easllv in­ side the corset. Then there will be no pushing up of the bust, no com­ pressing of the diaphragm. There is a great difference .between the old and the new style of high-bust corsets. To preserve the large waist, which is still fashionable, these new corsets are made with a full back. Some also have small gussets under­ neath each shoulder blade, while oth­ ers have sufficient fullness to form a ripple at the top. The skirt of these corsets is long over the thighs in the back, with a slightly shortened line TO BE MADE FROM REMNANTS Where Some Reformers Err. A reformer usually has big Ideas. Frequently he insists rtn procoeaia# ; on a wholesale basis Instead^ or rutt- ~ ning a small but active business reg ulatlng his own faults. ,r". -iT:*v':rs..- • -T' ' ^ *" r • 'fe- """ - ^ V -1 ' 'y > •' Waist Gsrnlture That Mey Be Fssh- loned From Msterlsl Found on Bargain Counter. There are charming possibilities in the numerous bargain table remnants today, when a little money plus some ability will accomplish a Smart waist garniture In short order. An attractive girdle can be made from a yard and a half of black net- saline or any desired silk weave Crush an eight-inch strip around the waist and divide the rest into one long strip the full 18 Inches of the material. Sew along the selvage edges ou the wrong side, turn, and finish eafeh end in a point. Knot this over the girdle--which fastens with hooks and eyeB a few Inches to th§ left of the center front, and have one end six Inches longer than the other. Sew a jet tassel or ball to the end of each point A home-made trimming may be made instead by winding two small circles of cardboard with a bole in the center with heavy rope silk. When closely wound cut the threads be- This model by Grunwaldt, is msde siong the lines of the summsr jposts. It Is of broadtail, cut very Ml, with short ruffled skirt. Collar and cuffs of chinchilla. tween these two rungs of pasteboard and tie them tightly oy strands of the rope Bilk slipped through the card­ board and tied tightly around the cen­ ter, with ends long enough to make loops. Make 14 such balls. Fasten one at each point of the sash, crochet or chain stitch three ends three inches long, attach a ball to each, then continue the ends for four or five' Inches more and finish with another ball on tho end of each one. The Latest Lingerie. On a negligee recently seen com­ posed of white chiffon was stenciled pink roses with green leaves. It was trimmed down the front with cascades of shadow lace, the lace continuing around the negligee heading a cut <, flounce. It was closed with two sets ! of three black velvet bows. Net formed||V the revers and small pointed collar. |r.y The most unusual note in this c^arm-s".i5 ing negligee was the way in which the L/r sleeves were fashioned. The upper part wap in one with the kimono-^j like negligee, but the lower part white net was joined to the uppa^fw part with a chiffon covered oo*4. .. " -v." i ... '^ . up- •. • :2. ivw m