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BACK TO 0LD FASH10N •KAMI ARE AGAIN CONSIDERED IN HEIGHT OF STYLE. m n.tf" V- ^v,: fe»L Change In Opinion % *Aoet arked, and Has Much to Recom- , mend It--Some Now Ideas in 8leeve Model*. new fashions do not insist upon tM darts which give the bust promi­ nence and outline a strong curve to­ ward the small waist, because there to too much orientalism in clothes yet to allow of a small waist, but the shoulders are fitted and the chest is smoothly covered. The shoulders are often made more narrow in appearance by a drooping line or a cap to which the sleeve is gathered; but nothing must take away from the attenuated back that is made to look smaller by reason of several seams running from shoulder to waist or hips, if the garment is a coat There is no longer any preju­ dice against seams. What would have been considered too old-fashioned for anything except the family album is now very good style. Another accepted .fashion of recent years that must be avoided Is the .three-quarter sleeve. No matter for what hour the garment is intended during the day, the sleeve must be long. There's no uncertainty there. It ^ v,-« p; Biscuit-Colored Velvet, With Seal Col lar«and Cuffs, Belt and Pocketi Em­ broidered In Gold. may be full or tight, leg-o'-mutton or prelate, cuffed with muffs of fur, or finished with a silk cord; its style de­ pends upon the type of blouse, and its length depends upon the present law. • • j| There is no tendency to allow the least evidence of fullness at the wrist; whatever the width at the el­ bow--And it is usually considerable-- the wrist part fastens in as snugly as a glove. Happily this is so, for it is one of the best lines a woman can adopt if she wants her hand to look well. The sleeve that is gathered to a small cap at the shoulder, bulges out over the elbow and is held in below Is the one that the majority of French designers have sent over. It has taken the place of the bell- shaped Bleeve which was featured last winter in coats and frocks. That style is out, unless it Is occasionally used on a luxurious long topcoat of velvet or fur. The eighteenth century sleeve, which is made of white batiste or organdie and ends with a frill over the hand, held in place by a tight bracelet of black velvet ribbon, is returned to fashion; it is used on that new kind of winter house , frocks whidl Mme. Joire of the house of Paquin accentuates, made of taf­ feta and organdie, of velvet and or­ gandie. These sleeves are placed in a lumper blouse of blue or black taf­ feta, and there is a wide band of the same summerlike material on the skirt or edging the ends of the sash. Separate Skirts for Fall Wear. Separate skirts, which for many years have been associated with the summer season, are offered in very at­ tractive models for autumn wear. The new skirts are made on circular lines, and many of them have graceful redingote tunics, becoming alike to the •tout or slim figure. IN THE LINE OF FASHION MOST USEFUL IN BATHROOM WHITE RUSSIAN PUREST Sl.AV Receptacle for Towel, Sponge, or Soap y-Tfcal fjtay Easily Be in Every; Household. •• ' £ receptacle for the towel, sponge or soap it* seldom if ever provided in a bathroom where it can be reached from the bath, with the result that these articles are generally balanced along the edge of the bath, and some­ times they fall into it and at other (||^ra That Ara Considered of HlQh- -$«t Importance by the Women \ ; * Who Dress Well. Bern,' collar and sleeves may be bound with a contrasting color and the frock will be fashionably trimmed. Blippers of black satin for evening wear» with a deep plaiting of satin standing upright at the back of the slipper, are one of the latest fancies. Evening frocks in the main are short and full and made of lace or net oo , i times they fall on to the floor. Here we give a sketch of a useful article for hanging upon the wall by the side of the bath that the amateur carpenter can "knock together" in a few mo­ ments. and in which towel, soap and sponge may be placed and be within easy reach of the bather without any fear of these articles slipping into the water. It 1B composed of two pieces of well- planed board, one-half inch in thick­ ness and 18 inches in length. The back board is 10 inches in width and the front 8 inches in width. These two boards are Joined together with tri­ angular pieces of wood fastened on at either end with thin sharp nails. At the upper edge, at the back of the holder, two large picture rings are screwed in by which it may be sus­ pended from nails in the wall, and when completed it should be painted with white enamel. Purple Is Autumn's Favorite. In the realm of fashion, where many delightful rumors come true, it i> said that purple will be a favored color for late summer and autumn. Soft shades and wistaria, as well as the yery deep shades of reddish pur­ ple, all bid for recognition. Dark col­ ors have already gained/ such promi­ nence one sees little of the bright col­ ors. The tango and other brilliant, harsh colors which have been so popular have entirely passed, and black and navy blue are most favored by fash­ ion leaders for Buits, dresses and coats. In line with the erase tor things black and white are the new hand­ bags of silk, which have striped lin­ ing to match, or in direct .contrast, are gayly lined •faith flowered satins or silk. The handles are of the black and white silk or of black moire, as when the bag is all black, ornamented with the gilt clasps. Odds and Ends. All millinery shows the influence of the love of subdued tints. The high-crowned hat that seemed to give the needed dignity of appearance de­ manded by many women as a sign of the time** is seen in pastel shades of velvet that are infinitely beautiful. Plum and raisin tones in soft tints iu velvet and satin give the note of a ibdued brightness that is not out «* keeping with dress worn for prac­ tical ne.eds, and no charge of undue extravagance can be brought against any woman who may naturally pre­ fer to wear a tint more advantageous to her appearance than a more sober His Racial Habitation Is -the Most Backward Region of the Empire of the Cxar. ;% A sketch of white Russia, the first part of old Russian soil to feel the power of the invader, is given in a statement issued by the National Gfe ographic society. "White Russia comprises four Rus­ sian governments, Vitebsk, Smolensk, Moghileff and Minsk. It is said that the name is derived from the predomt nant color of the peasant dress. This division of Russia is bounded by the Prlpet river basin on the south and by the Duna, or southern Dvina, on the north. It supports a population of about seven and one-half million, two* third of which is white Russian and the rest Lithuanian, Jewish and Pol» lsh. Here, likely, is to be found the purest Slav type, almost unblended. This region, blanketed by swamps and marshes, and smothered in forests, is one of the poorest, most backward re- gions in European Russia. "Finns dwelt here before history be­ gan for Europe. They were expelled by Lithuania, who in turn gave way before migrating Slavonic tribes. The country finally passed back to the Lithuanians, then to Poland, and was won piecemeal by Great Rus­ sia. Polish oppression and religious persecution worked a wholesale deso­ lation here, and thousands of peasants fled into Russia, while those who re­ mained intrigued for Russia's coming. The whole of the region was not an­ nexed by the Great Russians until the end of the eighteenth century. Starva­ tion has swept this land again and again with as terrible effects as those experienced by India in the grip of ftunine. "The White Russian is not of so sturdy a build as the Great Russian, nor so comely as the Little Russian. He is less aggressive than his north­ ern neighbor, and more heavy than his southern neighbor. His hair and eyes are light, and his face is generally drawn. The garment peculiar to him Is his white overcoat which ho wears on all special occasions as proudly In sweltering July as in the winter. His villages are small, iso­ lated and badly kept. His homes are primitive. His fight for existence is a bitter one. From his ranks are recruited the workmen for the hard­ est, least-paying tasks ot the empire." WRITE FOR FREE SAMPLE and Quaint "Mother Qooso" Book-- The WRIGLfEY Spearmen want you to know and to remember always that WRIGLEY5 brings joy in greatest meas­ ure for its small cost Because it lasts longer; tastes good longer and benefits you more than any other form of confection for anywhere near the price. It affords healthy, wholesome exercise for teeth and guma It soothes the throat, relieves thirst, steadies the stom­ ach. It aids appetite and digestion. To help you remember this delicious, helpful refreshment the WRIGLEY Spears have produced an elaborate jingle book--the "Mother Goose" tales revised. You'll enjoy it For FREE sample of the new PEPPERMINT flavored and copy of this book, fill out the coupon or send a postal today. Z¥°":4 Save the Coupon Wrappers for Premiums AC i. i»mM m " ."i- *8^ fe ^ * Cfaafr Mb Cvmmy itod tig*i WRiGlEY'S is the largest Selling gum in the world ^ K •-tli $ _ »Ct«" - WAR BRIDE HAT OF MOURNING .Pacific Kelp In a recent article in the Journal of Agricultural Research, Mr. Guy R. Stewart of the University of California agricultural experiment etatlon dis­ cusses the kelps of the Pacific coast aB a source of nitrogen. As a result of extensive experiments, the author • finds that the readiness with which the nitrogen in dried and ground kelp need as fertilizer is changed to am­ monia and nitrates in fresh field soil varies with the species and wJth the way it is prepared. Nereocystis luet- keana gives up its nitrogen with rela­ tive quickness, but it is of minor com­ mercial importance. Macrocystis purl- fera changes slowly in the soil, but the availability of its nitrogen is increased if it is used fresh, or at least only partly dried. Unfortunately, macrocys­ tis must be dried until crisp in order to grind readily. The drying should not be continued longer than is neces­ sary, and the kelp should not be scorched or overheated. In the same Journal another California chemist, Mr. D. R. Hoagland, gives a detailed account of the "Organic Constituents of Pacific Coast Kelps." Incidentally, he deals with certain Interesting eco­ nomic questions in regard to kelp; namely, the possible feeding value of kelp for man or animals, the utiliza­ tion of its organic by-products, and the destructive distillation of it for com­ mercial uses. For all three purposes its usefulness appears to be slight. WM» WRIGLEY JR* CO.* f322 JTesnor Bldg., Ohiaago» 28 pages lithographed in four colors WHY HE WAS IN THE WAY Presence of Chaplain Prevented Drlv* era Talking to Their Horses as They Wished. The weather had been very wet tor weeks, and the roads, "Somewhere, across the Channel," were in a very bad state. <?• Consequently, it was not surprising that a wagon in a certain British sup­ ply column suddenly dived into a hole full of mud, and refused to budge. At the critical moment up came an army chaplain, who at once proffered his services. "Men," he said, "I see you're in diffi­ culties. Can I be of any help?" 'Yes, sir," answered a burly ser­ geant, bluntly, as be mopped bis brow, "you can give us the greatest help by making yourself scarce." "Making myself scarce!" gasped the chaplain. "Why, how--?" 'Yes, sir," broke in the sergeant; "you see, we can't very well say to the horses what they'd understand, while you are about!" ...Fir Slabs Found of Value. Fir slabs, the disposition of which forms a problem for the sawmills of the northwest, have been found by a chemistry student at the University of Washington to be exceedingly rich in tanning content. From three cords of fir slabs he could obtain as'much of the extract, which Is used in tanning and in the manufacture of lnkt and dyes, as from a cord of western hem­ lock bark. The bark costs $11.50 a cord, whereas three cordB of the fir slab may be bought at anywhere from three to six dollars, depending on the location of the mills. Further, the tannin content of chestnut wood, which yields 200,000,000 pounds of ex­ tract annually in the East, ia only a little greater than that of the fir slab. Chestnut has an average content of 6.62 per cent, while the fir Slab runs frjm 5.45 to 5.92 per cent SAVED MINISTER'S LIFE. sional handsome brocades, the silver design on taffeta or faille being still in high favor. Make the little girl's dress to hang ^ from the shoulders with a slight p flare. Cut the neck square and finish " Wrl ** with a band of embroidery. Around the bottom put a band of the same embroidery, but wider. v.. Silk marquisette Is already tar evi­ dence for dressy costumes. It la a sort of fine grenadine which was im- mensely popular some few seasons ago, but which was dU^laced in favor ; ? jv - ' ; * 'jl J . "id"1* j**-,' - --• ••• " "fjii V In Europe, where half the women are In mourning, this hat, which Cour- neur of Paris, its designer, has ap­ propriately called the "War Bride's Hat," is meeting quite a vogue Vmong the young widows, who ap­ preciate its smartness and chicness. It is made of black crepe, with a touch of whits veil, and is draped, permitting it to hang loose down the back. of voile and cotton and silk crepe. Coats fasten only above the waist, and show decided buttons. High col­ lars are usurping the place of the roll­ ing collars, and they figure also on blouses. Many have the material cut away beneath the chin, and this gives a more youthful appearance than an all-around collar. Coat collars are lowered In many models, but revers are by no means abandoned. Felt for Hats. Is the superfashionable mate­ rial for early fall headgear; not only sport hats are of felt, but also smart sailors and turbans for wear with tailored street suits. Of course the felt hat is a blocked hat and the new shapes are charming, particularly the Mexican sombrero shapes, with a saucy roll of brim that reveals the hair and the big Boy Scout sailors that are worn tip-tilted on the head. 8ewlng Hint, It jroo want to change the appear­ ance of the much-worn evening dresa. shorten it and add a wide hem ot some sheer material lift% qhiffop, Victorian Hobby. The announcement offering for sale the wedding shoes of Queen Victoria recalls the fact that her majesty was a keen collector of historical relics. At a sale held in November, 1899, she commissioned a well-known deal­ er to secure for her a walking-stick carved to represent "Wisdom and Folly," once the property of Prince Charles Edward. The royal agent had carte blanche, and the stick was knocked down to him for £160. This was a monstrous price «hen we con- eider that shortly before the young pretonder's dirk, with flint-lock pistol attached, realized only £3 15s; while the great Rob Roy's claymore, made by Andrea Ferrara, with its shark's skin grip and all, went for £37 16s. At the Stuart exhibition organized in London some twenty years ago a num­ ber of most interesting exhibits came from Queen Victoria's collection.-- Dundee Advertiser. LADIES! LOOK YOUNG How Thousands Hav« Restored Nature al Color. Dandruff Removed, Or»y-haired persons will be interested in reports of drug-gista In town regarding the suc­ cessful accomplishments of Hay's Hair Health. This unique preparation causes the oxygen in color and lustre of youth is returned. Not • dye; absolutely harmless. Kemoves dandruff. Cleans and tones scalp; revitalizes and beau­ tifies hair. No one knows you're using it. S5c, 60c and SI .00 bottles at drug stores or direct, if grlce and dealer's name are sent to Philo Hay pecialties Co., Newark, N. J. Price refunded U it falls. Adr. Reminded. "When the autumnal frosts touch the foliage with tints of red and yel­ low against the gray sky, doesn't that Inspire you to thought?" "It certainly does. The reds and yellows make me think of thg^ob ahead of me tending the furnace, aad the grays make me think of the dust when 1 sift the asbes." Indian Muele. The last report of the Smithsonian Institution records the recent progress of Miss Frances Densmore's well- knofrn studies of the music of the American Indians. She had, at the date of the report, complnted the field work for1 a large volume on Sioux music, including 98 musical transcrip­ tions of songs. It is interesting to learn that musical composers are now making free use of the material col­ lected by Miss Densmore. The report mentions four songs, published by the bureau of ethnology, which have been adapted for orchestral pnrposes, and several others that have been ar­ ranged by various composers for one or more voices, for the violin, etc. Lastly, one composer is utilizing these aboriginal themes in an Indian opera. --Scientific American. TIM Thief and the House-Oeg. A thief came in the night to break into a house. He brought with him several slices of meat, that he might pacify the house-dog, so that he should not alarm his master by bark­ ing. As the thief threw him the pieces of meat, the dog said, "If you think to stop my mouth, you will be greatly mistaken. This sudden kind­ ness at your hands will only make me more watchful, lest under these un­ expected favors to myself, you have some private ends to accomplish for your own benefit, and for my master's injury."--From Aesop's Fables. When all others fall to pleaso Try Denlson's Coffee. It takes a conscientious man to enjoy his work if the remuneration Is small. Illlllllllimi A New Delight With real Bayou bean*, or plain. Made after the real and f*inoui Mexi- au formula. The seasoning is most piquant--a zestfol tasty dub saywbera --any tine. Libby, McNeill a Libby ̂ CnicafO ; Look for the triangle Libby 9 grocer.9 Feace Bead Bats Sastf Pasts Essd Fabric •jton win have softiethiDg you will besatis- iied with. Get jur prices on Field and Poultry Fences Cat frea nil fUH 6ft. Rev. W. H. Warner, Frederick, 1M., writes: "My trouble was Sciatica. My back was affected and took the form of Lumbago. I also had Neu­ ralgia, cramps in my muscles, pres­ sure or sharp pain on the top of my head and nervous dizzy spells. I had other symptoms showing that my Kidneys were at iauit, so i iook Dodd's kidney Pills. They were the means of saving my life." Dodd's Kidney Pills, GOc per box at your dealer, or Dodd's Medicine Co., Buffalo. N. Y. Dodd's Dyspepsia Tab­ lets for Indigestion have been proved, 50c per box. Write for Household Hints, also music of National Anthem (English and German words) and recipes for dainty dishes. All 3 sent free.--Adv. Couldn't Blame It. The hotel was not a very good one, and the traveling men knew It. Nev­ ertheless they were obliged to go there when thefy came late at night to the little town. In the middle of the night one of them was dimly conscious that something was wrong. Suddenly he realized that the trouble came from a leaking gas jet "Wake up. Bill!" he shouted, shak­ ing his friend violently. "The gas is escaping!" "Well," growled Bill, "can you blame Itr--Ladies' Home Journal. Thought He Could Fix Goat. "Papa," said a little boy, "I want a goat." "Why, son, you can't have a goat; he'd hook you." "Well, daddy, then I'd cut his horns off." "Nothln' doin', son, he'd butt you." "Aw, daddy, then I'd cut his buttons off. Please get me a goat." Quite True. "Do you know that girls often think more of a dog than they do of a man before they are married?" "YeB, and I've noticed that they of ten do afterward." Agreed. Sadie--Say, honest now, do you like Maggie? Pauline--Well, she's got a good heart an' she means well, but-- Sadie--Neither do 1.--Puck. GOOD ENOUGH AS A SAMPLE Quality of Helping Was All Right, But in Quantity It Left Much to Be Desired. Jacky had been asked out to a "grown-up" dinner. Swelling with pride, he took his seat at the bottom of the table and looked round-- slightly siwe8truck--at the Imposing collection of aunts and uncles. Then his attention became fixed on the ancient relative who was carving an enormouB turkey, and his mouth watered as he saw the big helpings being handed round. But the carver, who did not know much about little boys, cat off a tiny portion for Jacky. "Is that the part of the bird you like, my little man?" he asked, as the servant handed Jack the plate. - Jack looked at it for a moment, and then handed it back. "Yes," he sa(d; "I'll have some of that, please." Case of Must. "You're not smoking as much as yo* used to. Did' your doctor order yon I* stop?" "No. I'm a martyr to fashion." "What's fashion got to do wttfc smoking?" "If you saw my wife's dressmaker and milliner bills you wouldn't aak such a foolish question." " Fitting Reception. "How do your women andteWBM take to your candy-making lectureaT* "Oh. they Just eat 'em up." Nothing flattera asking his advice. a fool so modi as Heredltsry. The baby had finished his bottle of milk, and the proud mother thought it would be a good time to get him to say "mamma," "papa," and "by by." The baby simply gurgled. "Isn't that perfectly wonderful?" said the mother. "Well," replied the baby's uncle, "it reminds me very much of the way his father talks when he has been busy with a bottle." . Paw's Little Joke. Little Lemuel--Say, paw, what is a stratagem ? Paw--The diamond, my son, is one kind of a strata-gem. It Is. "Time is money." "Yep, but it's mighty tough if time Is all you've got to spend." Roofs don't wear out--they dry out. When properly made they dry out very slowly and give the Mat ssfiita. Certain-teed Roofing Made with a soft center asphalt and coated with a harder blend of asphalt, which keeps the soft saturation within--the life of the roofing--from dry ing out quickly. Guaranteed 5, 10 or 15 years according to thickness--guarantee backed by the largest Roofing and Building Paper Mills in the World. Sold in your town at reasonable prices by your own dealer whom you know. general Roofing Manufacturing Ca nhtrwfiicturrrsof and Buiuiiny l\ip*rs New Ycric Gty Ckicif* FL!t<ielpUs SL LmI§ Botoa Cl««l»»d Pittibarik Detroit SHFIUCW* CiaaaaiJi Minseapelii Kuui City Iwllli AtUsta Houton LoaJoa Huolsrr Syfecy Bright as Day! The steady, brilliant light shed by a RAYO lamp drives away the gloom of long winter evenings. No need to go to bed because there is nothing else to do when the glow of the RAYO on the center table invites a restful hour erf reading or sewing. Saves your eyes, too--which is vet more impor­ tant. No danger of eye-strain when you light your home with Kstfb Lamps Over 3,000,000 comfortable middle western homes already are using RAYOS and making winter evenings the pleasantest time of the year. Sold everywhere by leading dealers- ask yours, no*w- to show you the RAY Q. STANDARD OIL COMPANY (INDIANA) (HOB) CHICAGO, U. & A. V 'aV -/-ti -4 •Vr&iS A -«t; it* Vmm ffhw Ml ••m -.4.:,' A 8hlning Mark. --is be as stupid as he looks? Almee--O, dear. no. He Is the only heir of a millionaire unda. There Is a tax of 40 fulness in En* land on motor cars of over <0 horse power. > 10c Worth of (filPQlB) Will Clear $1.00 Worth of Land Get rid of the stumps and grow big crops on cleared land. Now •:! *51 - Is the time to clean up your farm while products bring high prices. Blasting is quickest, cheapest and eahiest with Low Freez­ ing Du Pont Explosives. They work in cold weather. WMto far Fr~ Hmu&ook of Exptommm Ma mnJ nam* cf Marstf dmalmt. .a DU PONT POWDER COMPANY WLUNCTON . j. y- ». / . - •