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'•V $ » k ^ 2THE MCHEXRY PLAINDEAJJ3R, BECHENRT, ILL. .-< '*# • f J" . ^ jp: * . ?*».§ L ~zr v~" •̂ !£S &•*$!&' •:-.£tU < .•• i,. .-4 s. . . '"A -,.7 :v *T:,': ic .> r.r^r% ' : -•--«»-. "BLUE srvw 8UNKSARE ' Act Passed by Lttt L-Cgislajp Aims to Prevent Fraud la Sales UCE&SES FOR AIL DEALERS | Wank Forms Are Prepared by the 8ec- ft rotary of State for Those Dealers k Who Wish to Qualify Under A the Act , Springfield.--January 1, 1918, the x 1>lue sky" law passed by the fiftieth geaeial assembly goes into effect. This new law Is designed to prevent fraud In the sale and disposition of stocks, bonds, debentures and other securities. - The law requires, with certain ex­ ceptions, fhat dealers, agents Or brok­ ers who desire to sell stocks or other securities must first be licensed, and Louis L iSmroerson, secretary of state, announced that the blanks for those who wish to qualify under the net are feady. Security listed or dealt in upon any •Organized stock exchange approved by the secretary of state are exempt from the operation of the act:- Commissioners licensed to open "books of subscriptions to the capital «tock of a proposed corporation, to be organised under the laws of Illinois, Sire not required to be licensed under The act in order to take subscriptions to the capital stock of the proposed forporation. The sale of the following securities Is excepted from the operation of the let: 'To ft" corporation, a public sinking jtj trustee, a licensee, under the act, ^s of municipalities, governments n i mental agencies or other "fcecur- seeurltles published in tabulated |et reports of dally newspapers of it circulation for not less than (rear preceding the sale thereof, or notes secured by first mort- lien upon real estate, stocks, i gn^J^wwrttles pledged to natlon- liks and tnist companies, stock of |ince companies organized or un- ne supervision of department of J and commerce, stock of building Joan associations, bonds, stock lit her securities and quasi-public Krations the Issuance of which rities is regulated by public serv- Jommlsslons, stocks, bonds or oth- lecurltles sold at Judicial, execu- adminlstrator'8 or trustee in hank­ ie's sale, pie Shipping Regulations. pgulatlon of the shipping of cattle Ac Chicago markets from points In |ois has been commenced. It Is In pliance with an order Issued by railroad war board. The order fol- "Within a z<*ie of approximate­ ly TWO miles of Chicago live stock will 'be received for shipment to reach Chi­ cago market only Tuesday, Thursday, Friday or Sunday. Within the second cone, beyond 600 miles from Chi­ cago and up to the 36-hour lim­ it for shipment of live stock, ship­ ments will be received to reach the Chicago market Monday, Wednesday, Friday or Saturday. The third zone embraces all territory outside of the 80-hour limit from Chicago and this "*Z(M»e shipments of live stock may be Ide at any time to reach the Chi- market on any week day." IfUblic Service Rate Hearing. "The state public utilities commls- • slon will hold a public hearing in this city Wednesday, January 16, for the . 'purpose of ascertaining the views of Interested persons relative to tentative jniles governing the establishment of '.credits and the collection of and hand­ ling consumers' deposits for electric, i§as, water and heating services. E: ^The proposed tentative rules have , I been sent by the commission to a laffie number of consumers in the sttte.'and an Interesting discussion of "^llferoposltion Is expected. jlPossible Delay In Good Roads. " Illinois proposed good roads may not become a reality until after the war. Good roads boosters here conferring with Gov. Frank O. Lowden on the $00,000,000 bond issue favor a post­ ponement of the actual work of con- stmrHng the roads, should the bond >ssue pass at the general election in (1918, until after the war. Headed by ^William G. Edens of Chicago, presi­ dent of the Illinois Highway Improve- nent association, officers and a com­ mittee of the organization urged the Vyernor to issue a proclamation or _»ment indorsing a postponement, meeting before the conference Governor Lowden, Mr. Edens told HSStrtiation members such action f advisable to convince the farmers osed to the bond issue that _Jbuilding of the federal roads would 5t prove a hindrance to the further­ ance of the nation's war work. ! Insane Good Farm Help. Methods of department of public 'welfare in the re-education of the in- 'sabe have met with approval from 'farmers In Morgan county whose corn jfeaa been husked and garnered by ln- mates of the hospital for the Insane JacksonvjUe. As an experiment, Dh E. L. 11* superintendent of the hospital, accompanied a force of men from the hospital into the fields near the Institution. The wards of the state took hold of the work with avid- Uty, and tearly this month had earned \1n shares cWe to 2,000 bushels. Show Military Service Flags. Secretary of state Louis I. Eramer- r_ will secure a silk service flag and »ng It in a conspicuous place In the cretary-of state's office at the state- in honor of the eight members "the office who are in the military Wee of the United States. A serv- . • Jtifc Is shown in one of the windows lof the supreme court building. It has three stars in honor of the follow­ ing who have entered the military service of the United States: Lieut. Bay Garrett Lieut. Charles K, Brfng Verne DeLong. State Sank Report issued. In spite of the fact that United States bonds held by the 831 state banks in Dlî ois have increased $31 200,378 since the last report on Sep­ tember 12, total deposits Increased $3,- 268,408, according to the report of the condition of state banks on November 21, issued by State Auditor Russel. The total amount of bonds held was $54,- 221,568. The total deposits (including due to banks) amounted to $1,006,370,- 829. The total capital, Burplus contin­ gent fund and undivided profits were $176,157,282, an Increase of $1,587,840. The total cash due from banks was $238,288,703, a decrease of $17,410,647. The per cent of reserve to deposits. Including due to banks was 25.67. De­ posits subject to check Increased $24,- 612,127 and savings deposits decreased $8,653,910. The total resources were $1,222,266,702, an Increase of $16,821,- 227i Three new state banks were or­ ganized during the period covered by the report. - • Team Work Wi'l Do It. Illinois Jls filled with people who de­ sire to do something to help win the war. They are eager for work. They feel the call of service. Men who are too old to enlist in either the army or the navy but who are active and able, and women of all ages whose emotions have been so wrought up by the events of the war that it seems to them they simply must do something, personally, to hasten American victory, are the most earnest and ardent. Frequently there are difficulties when these try to fit themselves into Jobs. So they become Impatient. Such impatience is, perhaps, natural. But it Is not ^lelpful. Its usual mani­ festation is tt> "start something"--start It Individually and carry It on Inde­ pendently. The war Is too big for anyone'to win It single-handed. America's job is too great for any independent effort even to make a dent in it. Enough things have been started. The thing needed is team wo^k to finish them. Anyone can get a place on the team who really wants It. The work of the state council of de­ fense and the various bodies working under or with it embraces the entire list of war activities in Illinois, includ­ ing, through friendly relations, the Red Cross, the Y. M. C. A., the Knights of Columbus, the sale of Liberty bonds, and every effort of the council of na­ tional defense. All worthy and efficient organizations will be recognized by it. The state council Is an official body created for the purpose of getting the cumulated force of a whole community for each particular undertaking; waste and weakness Inevitably result from diffused and sporadic personal or In­ dependent efforts. And the council wantB all the help it can get, every­ where, To Protect School Children. When any activity is contemplated-^ and particularly a war activity--It seems to be a sort of universal prac­ tice to call upon the school? to do a large share of the actual work. In these days of feverish effort all schools have been simply overwhelmed with requests for the pupils to do things. If only a fraction of the requests should be complied with the boys and girls would have to spend all their time do­ ing the work asked of them and work 24 hours a day. So county superintend­ ents and' high school principals ap­ pealed to the state council of defense to do something to relieve them and the pupils. In compliance with the request, the council has named an advisory educa­ tional committee which will pass on alt such demands for school aid, and wll' decide which things should be properly undertaken by the school children, and Which should not. Francis G. Blair, state superintendent of public instruc­ tion, is chairman of the committee. The other members are: John D. Schoop,, superintendent of schools, Chicago. Livingston C. Lord, president of East­ ern Illinois Normal schooT, Charleston. Edward J. Tobln, superintendent of Codk county schools, Chicago. James E. Armstrong principal of En­ gl ewood high school, Chicago. Eugene Davenport, dean of the Col­ lege of Agriculture, University of Illi­ nois. W. L. Steele, superintendent of schools, Oalesburg., J. Stanley Brown, principal, Town­ ship high school, Joliet. J. G. Hannn, state high school supei* visor, Springfield. Roy Moore, county superintendent of schools. Eureka. Harry Taylor, principal of Township high school, Harrlsburg. Gustave Andreen. president of Au- gustana college, Rock Island. P. E. Fleming, whose office Is at 120 W^st Adams street, Chicago, is the sec­ retary of the committee. ^11 requests for the employment of school children received by either county superintend­ ents or high school or other princi­ pals, should be forwarded to him. Or­ ganizations which desire the help o' school children would do well to ad dress their requests directly to the committee at its Chicago office. { State Owns Canal Property. In an opinion Attorney General Bruhdage authorizes the state depart­ ment of public works to take posses­ sion of and protect the section of the Illinois and Michigan canal which was abandoned when the Sag cut was con­ structed. The police power, he says,* should be invoked to prevent It from being used by the city of Chicago as a dumping ground and to prevent Its oc­ cupation by adjacent property owners. The opinion was given in response to a request from Director of Public Works Puterbaugh. He asked as to the legal status of the 90-foot strip of canal right of way. property owners with holdings along the strip have contended that, follow­ ing abandonment of Its use the prop­ erty reverted to them. The city has claimed the right to fill the canal on the ground that the unused depression constituted a nuisance. In his opinion to Judge Leslie D. Puterbaugh the at­ torney general holds : "The state holds the title In fee to the bed of the entire canal. Including the feeder and appur­ tenances in section 30 of township 39, in range 13 eastof the Third principal meridian. ,, •IM-r Tl Interesting Tidings From City, Town and Countryside. WILL TRAIN FOR ARTILLERY i: One Thousand Chicago Young Ms* Leave for Fort Winfleld Scott in California, Instead of Camp Grant at Rockford. Chicago.--One thousand Chicago young men left for Fort Winfleld Scott In California, where they will be train­ ed in the artillery branch of the army Instead of the infantry at Camp Grant, Rockford, where the, other Chicago drafted meri"~are sent. Galesburg.--Knox college has made it unanimous. * All m&nberS of the student body and of the faculty have joined the American Red Cross, it waSi announced from Washington. Kankakee.--Cattle and sheep are dy­ ing in Kankakee county from a pecu­ liar disease. The death of stock is laid to alien enemies and It Is reported that Dr. J. W. Logan of the bureau of animal industry will come here to in­ vestigate. Chicago.--Joy was distributed by the food price committee in announcing reductions in prices of turkeys for Christmas dinners and eggs for the "trimmings." A reduction of one cent a dozen in both storage and fresh eggs was announced and a reduction of one cent a pound In turkeys was ordered. Fresh-picked dry hirds were-quoted at from 37 to 42-cents a pound and No. 1 birds 34 to 40 cents a pound. It is re­ ported there are few turkeys in cold storage here. Bloomlngton. --- From time immemo­ rial leather has been used in the con­ struction of cushions for cabooses. Due to its present scarcity and high price, the Chicago & Alton has substi­ tuted brown denim. « Lincoln.--A vigorous effort to get an armory for this city is being made to accommodate A company, state mili­ tia, and B company, home guards. Plans are tn the hands of the Commer­ cial club. Nashville.--David Kenotski, one hundred and two years old, the oldest citizen of Washington, died at his honle near Ashley. Springfield.--The Springfield Press club has been organized, with C. W. Eden, city editor of the State Registefr, as president. Gillespie.--A mammoth hoisting en­ gine has arrived for the Superior mine, No. 4, said to be one of the largest In the world. It will have a capacity of 10,000 tons a flay, employing In the neighborhood of 2,000 men when in full operation. Springfield.--Twelve thousand Ave hundred dollars for a broken neck. This Is the verdict of a jury here against the Springfield-Chicago Coal Mining company. The jury held that the company must pay Charles J. Le- masters that sum for an Injury sus­ tained by the plaintiff while employed In the defendant's mine. De Kalb.--The police are puzzled over finding an unidentified body on a downtown crossing. Marks on collar were "W. H. A." The man was appar­ ently forty-five years old and of me­ dium height. On one cuff was written: "Ahiy, thU is trump, force it; it Is on me." #'• Altoh.--The "scrapplngs" of an old copper still, 75 years of age, netted John Glssler $240.60. He got 20 cents a pound, for the stuff and bought Lib­ erty bonds with the proceeds. In ad­ dition the old still was put back into use after the "scrapplnc." Duquoln.---Petitions are being circu­ lated asking a pardon for Jesse Joplln, who shot and killed Dr. D. Wluton Dunn, former mayor of, Duquoln, in the latter's ofSce three and a half years ago. Joplln was convicted and sentenced to life Imprisonment. Coun­ ter petitions also are being circulated. Peorid.--Although seven drift cars ran over Joe Miller, a miner, in the Cljirk & Co, mine here, he escaped death. Miller was badly Injured about the head and back. Freeport.--Mrs. Walter B. Spielman bought a $50 Liberty bond with buffalo nickels, and Clarence Gelger bought a bond with $50 worth of Lincoln cents. Chicago.---Announcement was made here that two additional federal judge­ ships will be recommended for Illinois by Attorney General Thomas W. Greg­ ory, following his departure for Wash­ ington, after spending Saturday and Sunday in Chicago. He will recom­ mend to congress that it pass such a measure. Taytorville--When the heating plant at the county* Jail went out of commis­ sion Sheriff Barnes rolled up a trac­ tion engine and supplied the steam pipes successfully. Springfield.--When the State Teach­ ers' association convenes here Decem­ ber 27-29, a large service flag will greet the delegates. It Is estimated more than one hundred of the teachers have joined Uncle Sam's fighting forces. Springfield--Ignorance of the iaw will be no excuse for violators of the draft law as regards the filling out of questionnaires. Information to this effect has been received by State's At­ torney E. C. Knotts from Washington. It instructs him to prosecute to the full extent of the law all draft evaders or select men who return false re­ ports. Elgin--Religious Instruction In con­ nection with public school work will be asked by the Protestant churches of this city on the Gary plan. Forreston--Mr. and Mrs. I. J. Vogel­ sang, residents of Forreston for nearly sixty years» celebrated their golden wedding. Springfield--Governor Lowden has been confined to his home for two weeks, suffering from a severe attack of poison oak, with which he came in contact while on his Arkansas farm. His condition is improving. tiut aM bus­ iness is being transacted from the exe> i cutive mansion. INJUR* BY RODENTS Well Fed Rgrts Breed Often and Nave Very Large Litters. INJURE PRODUCE IN STORES Not Only Foodstuffs and Forage, but Textiles, Clothing and Leather Goods Are Often Ruined--Cut Off Food Supply. (Prepared by the United States Depart­ ment of Agriculture.) The effect of an abundance of food on the breeding of rodents should be kept in mind. Well-fed rats mature quickly, breed often, and have large litters. Poorly fed rats, on the con­ trary, reproduce less frequently and have 8mailef litters^ In addition, scarcity of food makes measures for destroying the animals far more effec­ tive. Merchandise In Stores.--In all parts of the country there is a serious eco­ nomic drain iq the destruction by rats and mice of merchandise held for sale by dealers. Not only foodstuffs and forage, but textiles, clothing, and leather goods are often rvrtned. This loss is due mainly to the faulty build­ ings in which the stores are kept. Often It would be a measure of econ­ omy to tear down the old structures and replace them by new ones. How­ ever, even the old buildings may often Another Important source of rat food Is foupd in remnants of lunches left by ertir#r>yees in factories, stores and public buildings. This food, which alone is sufficient to attract and sus­ tain a small army of rats. Is commonly left in waste baskets Or other open receptacles. Strictly .enforced rules requiring all remnants of food to be deposited in covered metal vessels would make trapping far more effeo tive. Military training camps, unless sub­ jected to rigid discipline In the mat­ ter of disposal of garbage and waste, soon become centers of rat Infestation. Waste from camps, deposited in cov­ ered metal cans and collected dally, should-ifee removed far from the camp Itself and either burned or utilized In approved modern ways. ' GIVE FEED ANIMALS RELISH WJtlle Preference for Certain Food Is ' Formed by Habit, It Is Better to Cater to It. Animals are much like human be­ ings In that they have their own Indi­ vidual preference for certain foods. While this preference is formed by> habit, to get the best returns with the feeds. It is best generally to cater to the animal's appetite. - Some horses will not do well with­ out oats In the ration. Others do not especially care for oats, but require corn, some require more hay than others, some must have ground feeds. To get the best results such animals should be humored. Our problem In feeding is \o watch the animals and see that they get the feeds the.v require and no more. Feed CAGE TRAP WITH SPLENDID CATCH OF RATS. be repaired so as to make them prac­ tically rat-proof; and foodstuffs, as flour, seeds, and meats, may always be protected In wire cages at slight expense. The public should be pro­ tected from insanitary stores by a system of rigid inspection. Household Supplies.--Similar care should be exercised lq the home to protect household supplies from mice and rats. Little progress In ridding the premises of these animals can he made so long as they have access to supplies of food. Cellars, kitchens-, and pantries often furnish subsistence not only to rats that inhabit the dwelling, but to many that come from outside. Food supplies may always be kept from rats and mice If placed In inexpensive rat-proof containers covered with wire netting. Sometimes all that Is needed to prevent serious waste Is the application of a defective part of the building. Produce in Transit.--Much loss of fruits, vegetables, and other produce occurs in transit by rail and on ships. Most of the damage is done at wharves and In railway stations, but there is also considerable In ships' holds, espe­ cially to perishable produce brought from warm latitudes. Much of this may be prevented by the use of rat- proof cages at the docks, by the care­ ful fumigation of seagoing vessels at the end of each voyage, and by the fre­ quent fumigation of vessels in coast­ wise trade; but still more by replacing old and dJecreplt wharves and station platforms with modern ones built of concrete. Where cargoes are befng loaded or unloaded at wharves or depots, food liable to attack by rats may be tem­ porarily safeguarded by being placed in rat-proof cages, or pounds, con­ structed of wire netting. Wooden boxes containing reserve food held in depots for a considerable time or In­ tended for shipment by sea may be made rat-proof by light coverings of metal along the angles. This plan has long been In use to protect naval stores on ships and In warehouses. It is based on the fact that rats do not gnaw the plane surface of hard mate­ rials, but attack doors, furniture and boxes at the angles only. Packing' Houses.--Packing houses and abattoirs are often sources from which rats secure subsistence, espe­ cially where meats are prepared for market In old buildings. In old-style cooling rooms with double walls of wood iyid sawdust Insulation, always a source of annoyance because of rat tnfestation, the utmost vigilance is required to prevent serious loss of meat products. On the other hand,' packing houses with modern construc­ tion and sanitary devices have no trouble from rats or mice. Garbage and Waste.;--Since much of the food of rats consists of garbage and other waste materials, it is not enough to bar the animals from mar­ kets, granaries, warehouses and pri­ vate food stores. Garbage and offal of all kinds must be so disposed of that rats cannot obtain them. In cities and towns an efficient sys­ tem of garbage collection and disposal should be established by ordinances. Waste from markets, hotels, cafes and households should be collected In cov­ ered metal receptacles and frequently emptied. Garbage should never be dumped In or near towns, but should be utilized or promptly destroyed by fire. Rats find abundant food In country slaughterhouses; reform in the man­ agement of these Is badly needed* Such places are centers of rat propa­ gation. It is a common practice to leave offal of slaughtered animals to be eaten by rats and swine, and this Is the chief means of., perpetuating trichinae in pork. The law should re­ quire that offal be promptly cremated or otherwise disposed of. Country slaughter-houses should be as cleanly and as constantly inspected as abba- t^irs. left In the trough or scattered on the ground out of reach of animals does not produce. Even in feeding cattle a skillful feeder will soon learn the different anl - mal's peculiarities and meet their re­ quirements in such a way as to get economical gains. If he does not watch closely he Is likely to waste feed while some of the animals are not getting enough. WINTER TASKS FOR FARMER Among Other 'Things to Do During Cold Weather Season Is to Form Co-Operative Clubs. Plant, prune and spray home or­ chards. Form co-operative clubs for pur­ chasing and selling all farm supplies and products. Clear your pasture of all rubbish, etc., repair the fences and make prep- artion for sodding them to Ber­ muda or other grasses next spring. Purchase commercial fertilizers co­ operatively, and pay for them in cash If possible. Remove all stupips, terrace your land and clean out all ditches. Winter plow your land when ID condition. Make compost and top dress grain with stable manure. Repair and paint implements and machinery. Clean and spray poultry and hOg houses. Mate poultry and set eggs for pro­ duction of pullets for fall laying. T'se the split-log drag on your roads. Get your neighbor tp do the same. DRY FEED INSTEAD OF SLOP Doesn't Freeze Up to Insult Appetite of Hog in Winter--Germs and Odors Are Avoided. The farmer whose pigs have lost their avidity for slop should try feed­ ing the slopstuff dry. Many a time pigs may be found fastidiously nosing through thick slop, when if dry mid­ dlings be placed In a trough hard by they will devour It In fierce competi­ tion. Some men like milk toast, and some men don't like milk toast; that Is the way with pigs. Try raising a bunch of pigs on dry middlings instead of slop of middlingi^-and the chances are that the pigs/will demonstrate the success of th^experiment. Germs and odors (bp accumulate around a trough in which dry feed is provided; dry feed doesn't freeze up to insult the appetite of a hog, like slop may do In winter. Discourage Mites and Lice. When the nests are put in order for the winter, sprinkle ashes into the material and put a couple of mothballs in as well. These tend to dlscouragt mites and lice. Carefully Stored Seed. Actual tests have proved that care­ fully stored seed corn will yield . as rnu^h as 18 bushels more to the acre than seed from the ordinary storage of the corn crop. Potatoes for Market. Grading potatoes for market in­ creases. the possibilities of sales arid raises the price received. Keep the culls on the farms and save the cost of hauling. ORIENTAL TURBAN IS HAT NOVELTY -hi New York.r--It has been said that women are divided into two classes: those who think of the hat first and the gown afterward, and those who think of the gown and pay little at­ tention to the hat. The difference in these attitudes of mind toward essential parts of eos- tumery is a topic that artistic dress­ makers never fail to find interesting. Interview a milliner and he will tell you that a woman may wear an un- Produce Pork at Low Cost. Ability to produce pork at low cost Is the real test of value of a hog. It Is the final test of all fancy breeding stock which sells for high prices. Heavy Lime Orders. Orders for lime for both winter and spring application are now keep­ ing the lime manufacturers and en busy. In this street suit of green and gray, the milliner has made cap, cape and muff to match of bright green broad- cloth, after a fashion of a quarter of a century ago. It is trimmed with gray fur, and the cape is fastened with one gray button. important gown and rise to heights of sartorial success if she wears an im­ portant hat. Interview a dressmaker and she will Insist that the gown should be purchased before any other part of the costume and that all other things should be added thereunto, with or without care. In looking at the whole scheme of dressing from the point of view of a reporter of clothes, the safe assertion is that the milliners are right. No gown can justify itself, or Its wearer for choosing it. If it Is marred by the wrong hat. On the other hand, a good hat which is admirably posed and which brings out all the best there Is In a face, can redeem a gown that would otherwise be a deplorable fail­ ure. That Is the way to judge the merits. Standards Have Changed. There was once a time when women and the public gave more attention to the face than to the figure, or to that vague and elusive thing called style. A woman had to he pretty, and her prettlness of the kind that women un­ derstood and men admired. Her figure might be unshapely, her gowns chosen at random and often ill-fitting, but the lovely face was featured and exploited above everything else. Surely, but Imperceptibly, the view­ point of the world toward good-look­ ing women changed. People demand­ ed more than a lovely face; they grew artistic and wanted a lovely silhouette. Then they grew insurgent and an­ nounced that they cared little for pret- tiness In the face, unless it was ac­ companied by, and often overshad­ owed by, style and well-fitting clothes. In short, women today have a greater task forced upon them, if they would commend their appearance to the pub­ lic. A woman was born pretty In other centuries, and she used art and nature to continue this facial attrac­ tion, but she left the choice of her clothes, the lines of her figure and the making of her corset to chance. To- f SLEEVELESS BLOUSE IS NEW Garment Which Is Cross Between Neg/ ligee and Peplum, Is All the Rage in Paris. K'he cry that Paris has not made anything new must- be hushed for a time, If one considers the sleeveless blouse. Whether or not It is good or practical, it is undoubtedly a novelty, and as such will be eagerly seized up­ on by some. These sleeveless blouses are all the rage in Paris. Everyone has at least one. and often several, in different bright colors; for it is an easy way to achieve a change of costume. The sleevelfss blouse is really a cross between a negligee and a peplum blouse. One of the models seen Is de­ veloped In French blue satin, and Is nothing more than a long, straight piece of the satin, with a hole In the middle for the head. There are no side seams at all, the blouse being held together under the arms by narrow bands of satin slipped through bound eyelets. The neck is rounded, and there is an Pajamas in Many Colors. . Pajamas are made in many colors. Usually they are In the lighter shades, but lavender, pink and rose, violet, green, mustard color and blue are all used for these sleeping garments. Very often two colors are combined. Gray underwear seems to be an accom­ plished fact. It has been designated by some makers as the color for "serv­ ice underwear." As it is made up in georgette and satin as well as In linen it can hardly be called eminently serv­ iceable. Obviously It Is used because it remains apparently clean longer than the white, but the fact that It cannot be worn under transparent white j or color without looking soiled, pven when It is entirely fresh, makes it Interesting rather than useful. day. It ta not the leait necessary Am her to be born with a trace of beauty to commend herself to a far-flung pul> lie and be considered a woiaMt striking appearance. The silhouette Is the thing. This is accentuated, or probably, tf Is better to say, It Is nearly embodied In the hat. The woman who does not. strike the top note clear and strong"' might as well consider herself out df the running In fashion and in attrac­ tiveness of personal appearance. Marred by a Hat. If women in mass could only til made cognizant of the truth concert* ing hats, the milliners would talk leaa and Women would look better. It 111. the Ignorance of the majority of won>? en as to what kind of hat they should' wear that glvesjtie milliner who mutt sell hats a chance to mar a face that - might be made attractive and ruin #« gown that has been admirably ex* euted. It is not possible to lay down lawa for the buying of hats. The tilt of • nose, the droop of an eyebrow, would smash every rule conceived and ex­ pressed. If a woman cannot learn hOW' to buy a hat. she should take up thft* study until she is letter perfect and she will save time, vitality, temper and money--a quartette that Is sorely need­ ed for more serious affairs In these days. There Is no limit to the variety oi hats, when one refers to shape, btrt there is little variety when it comet to startling inspiration. The lmmens* oriental turban is the novelty and Is worn by women who care to preserve the Eastern look In their costume<f whenever the .'occasion permits It, The original turban Is of black satla with a black paradise In front and a crystal buckle to hold the spread­ ing feathers. It Is worn low on thf head, showing not a flicker of hair, ex- ^ cept a tab on each ear to fill in th# , „ hiatus between the brim of the hit *-? and the pearl earrings. One thing should be well fixed ill the mind regarding this orienta* head­ gear, which Is that It should bT? kept for ceremonial occasions. It Is nol the kind of hat to wear on the street to the morning on a windy day. It tuaj be worn Indoors for any, day affair, and It has been adopted by smart women with half-low gowns for dilK! ners and suppers at restaurant*. .. The Restaurant Hat. The milliners are enchanted ovet the prospect of selling more hat* * through the new custom, which calls for a covering on the head, no matte* how low the gown, for evening usaft In restaurants. ' "f The new fashion Of adding an orna­ mental hat to a distinguished go*H when one dines in public has been taken from the French, who have woitt , hats In the evening for a century, - gardless of the English habit of unco** ^ ering the head and shoulders the mOK- ment the clock strikes seven. "**•: These restaurant hats are quite a \nv feature of new millinery, and with the ; exception of the sumptuous oriental turban, they are so broad of brim thai t they suggest the days of the Merry ^ Widow. Usually they are of black v«4» vet, although satin has an accepted ? - place. The trimming is as near oD aigrette as a woman can afford, and tf she can run the blockade of the Aubu* bon society she will use a bit of tiki •- real thing, If she Is the possessor of lt» : '} As. to colors, It Is difficult to got away from black. It Is accepted bp every class of society for every hour of the day. The trimming is inconso- "i quential. Women have been educated beyond the point of thinking that f feather, a flower and a ribbon are ne*> j essary to the accomplishment of ii H '* good hat or the reason for its price. , •>,% (Copyright, 1917. by th© McClure Nftwsp** per Syndicate.) >; open silt in front, which is held b» place by satin covered-buttons and silk eyelets; The shoulders are also slash- ed at each side, and buttoned in tlw spe way, in order to enable one to slip on the blouse without dlsarranj- ing the coiffure. The entire neck an# *, shoulders are embroidered In a convefr* tlonal Persian design In rose, gray atvd ', black. This blouse must, of course, bo ^ \vorn over some sort of 0uff!y, lace tufc*; derwalst. • ' ' i '•$ rV. -mM " J? ? ^ Brocades. Brocades are more effective becauaa they are not so common as they hava: • been. They have bten fashioned witjh ; skill and care and they show It. Blaclt brocades with leaves of silver, pal# gold brocades with great flowers oC" dull blue and black, tuiduight blue bro­ cades with spreading leaves of silvef- and mauve, are some of the desi.-iuiW that are built Into evening gowns that • have waists made of a different but: harmonious fabric. These brocadeOi ' can be draped into skirts of great dij|»~ ; nlty, and then a medieval waist built: from a solid gold tissue band and .ffcV jeweled net over the shoulders. ; V ' J'j® , * A Tailored Finish. Fur trimmings are being very ex- <>nsivtiy used and they are always •uulsome. but for a suit for general mr edges, bound with braid are serv- >uble and smart. They give a !lored finish, and with such a coa- can be worn any fur neckpiece ^carf. 4 I About Silk Petticoats. * » If you wear a 36-inch length silk pot* - +J- tlcoat, buy a 40-inch one and shorteflt '3- It by turning a tuck on the wronjfc side above the flounce. Then, afte<f proving it is the right length, cut th» tuck out and keep the strip for mend* ing. It is extremely good economy t# choose and adhere to one color schemm tor petticoats, says a writer in th# New York Evening Sun. Green t» practical, as It can be worn with » blue, brown or green suit or dress, and when it Is too badly worn for furtheit use buy another of the same slxadlf and keep the old one for mendlpg. ThO life of a silk petticoat can be doubled by timely and judicious mending, hjv! then? will be plenty of material this purpose in a discard Bead Beaded ba idve a touch The bags to be of It! the dniv. vti an assert are lar^- opora as