The following text may have been generated by Optical Character Recognition, with varying degrees of accuracy. Reader beware!

R K , w t • * * • S f t , , > ' >i.Amn8Ai.mt WSm %1fK ' "• *> sv,; / , *'*» "PE'S" W.- i'.,> V.k.:3* Authorof 1 ;f "PRUDENCE OF THE PARSONAGE" *s *-*• >. ETHEL HUESTON |̂ k %,»• » *. ̂ $• « ',iSM •«*'<- %\ iSt^Sle W'C/"* ' Copyright Bobb*-Merri!t Co. »***& » +* * ?! ' 1 - r •f-r1 • * * . ' . **- .w T.v;; • ???• • r f ' \ ' CHAPTER XV--^Continued. ^ •-^v •You're the nicest old things ffiat ever lived," said Lnrk, still laughing, but with great warmth and tender­ ness tn her eyes and her voice. "But yon can take the stockings back and save your money If you like--we love yon just as much." But this the happy donors stoutly refused to do. The twins had earned this wealth of hose, and finally, wiping their eyes, the twins began to smooth their hair and adjust their ribbons and belts. "What's the matter?" "Where are you going?" "Will you buy the rest of us some silk stockings f" queried the family, comic-opera effect. "Where are we going?" Carol re­ peated, surprised, seeming to feel that anyone should know where they were going, though they had not spoken. "We're going to call on our friends, tiff Course," explained Lark. «*)f course," said Carol, jabbing her hairpins in with startling energy. "And we've got to hurry. We must go to Mattie's and Jean's and Betty's and Fan's and Alice's and--say. Lark, may­ be we'd better divide up and each take half. It's kind of late--and we mustn't miss any." "Well, what on earth!" gasped Pru­ dence, while the others stared in speechless amazement. "For goodness' sake, Carol hurry. We hare to get clear out to Minnie's tonight, if we miss our supper." "But what's the idea? What for? What are you talking about?" "Why, you silly thing," said Carol patiently, "we have to go and tell our friends that we've got four pairs of silk stockings, of course. " I wouldn't miss this afternoon for the world. And we'll go the rounds together, Lark. I want to see how they take it," she smiled at them benignly. "I can imag­ ine their excitement. And We owe it to the world to give it all the excite­ ment we can. Prudence says so." Prudence looked startled. "Did I say that?" '* "Certainly. Ton said pleasure--but excitement's very pleasing, most of the time. Come on, Larkie, we'll have to walk fast." •And with a fond goodby to the gen­ erous family, the twins set out to spread the joyful tidings. Lark. paus­ ing at the doer just long enough to explain gravely, "Of course, we won't tell them--er--just how It happened, yon know. Lots of things in a parson­ age need to be kept dark. Prudence says so herself/* CHAPTER XVI. 4- ' The Girl Who Wouldn't Propose. w i ' ' t o o k a long time for Carol to re­ cover from the effect of Lark's disloy­ alty, as she persisted in calling it. For several weeks she didn't twinkle at all. But when at last the smiles came easy again, she wrote to Mr. Duke, her p'fessor no longer, bat now a full- fledged young minister. She apolo­ gized sweetly for her Jong delay. "But you will forgive me when you have read this," she wrote. "Cupid is wwking havoc in our family. Of course no one outside the home circle knows yet, but I insisted on telling you because yon have been such a grand good friend to us for so long. We may seem young to you, because you can't forget when we were freshmen, but we are really very grown up. We act quite mature now, and never think of playing jokes. But I didn't finish my news, did ir "It is Jim Forrest--he was tn high school when we were. Remember him? Larkie and I were out to spend a week, and--but I needn't go into particulars. •I knew you would be interested. The whole family is very happy about it; he Is a great favorite with everyone. But how our family Is going to pieces t Still, since it is Jim--! He is nice. Isn't he? But yon wouldn't dare say no." . Carol's eyes glittered wickedly as she sealed tills letter, which she had ipenned with greatest care. And a few days later, when the answer came, she danced gleefully up the stairs--not at all "mature" in manner, and locked the door behind her while she read: •- Dear Carol: Indeed I am very interested, and I'-Whh you all the joy in the world. Tell Jim for me how very much I think he la to be congratulated. He seems a fine fellow, and. I know you will be happy. It was a surprise, I admit--I knew he was doing the very devoted--but you have seemed so young to me, always. I can't Imagine you too grown up for jokes, though you do sound more "mature" In this letter than you have before. Lark will be lone­ ly, I am afraid. "I am very busy with my work, so you will understand If my letters come less frequently, won't you? And you will be too busy with your own happiness to bother with an old professor any more anyhow. I have enjoyed our friendship y«jjr * much,--more than you will ever knew,--and I want once niQre to hope you may be the happiest wom»n in the world. Hmn'^eserve to be. - ItU Very, sincerely your friend, ! DAVID A. DUK®. •; Carol lay down on the bed and crushed the letter ecstatically between Iter hands. Then she burst out laugh- log. Then she cried a little, nervously, and laughed agnln. Then she smoothed the letter affectionately, and curled up oin the bed with a pad of paper and tier father's fountain pen to answer the letter. My Dear Mr. Duke: However in the jporld could you make such a I've been laughing ever since I got your letter, but I'm vexed too. He's nice, all JDight; he's JuBt fine, but I don't want him! And think how annoyed Lark would be If atif could see It. I am not engaged to Jim Forrest,--nor to any one. It's Lark. I certainly didn't say It was I, did I? We're >11 so fond of Jim that It really is ^ pleasure to the whole famUy to count htm one of us, and Lark grows more deliriously joyful all the time. But I! I know you're awfully busy, of course, •ad I hate to intrude, but you must write one little postal card to apologize for your error, and I'll understand how hard you are working when you do not write Hastily, but always sincerely. Carol jumped up and caught up her hat and rushed all the way downtown to the postofflce to get that letter started for Danville, Illinois, where the Rev. Mr. Duke was located. Her face was so radiant, and her eyes were so heavenly blue, and so sparkling bright that people on the street turned to look after her admiringly. She was feverishly impatient until the answer arrived, and was not 'at all surprised that' it came under special delivery stamp, though Lark lifted her eyebrows quizzically, and Aunt Grace smiled suggestively, and her father looked up with sudden questioning in his face. Carol made no comment* only ran up to her room and locked the door once more. Carol, you awful little scamp, you did that on purpose, and you know It. You never mentioned Lark's name. Well, if you wanted to give me the scare of my life, you succeeded. Of course, I don't want to lose my little chum, and I knew very well that no man In his proper senses would allow his sweetheart to be as good a comrade to another man as I want you to be to me. Of course I was disappointed. Of course I expected to be busy for a while. Of course I failed to see the sterling worth of Jim Forrest. I see It now, though. I think he's a prince, and as near worth being In your family as anybody could be. I'm sure we'll be great friends, and tell Lark for me that I am waxing enthusiastic over his good qualities even to the point of being in­ articulate. Tell her how happy I„ am over It, a good deal happier than I've been for the past several days, and I am wish­ ing them both a world of joy. I'm hav­ ing one myself, and I find It well worth having. I could shake you, Carol, for playing such a trick on me. I can Just see you crouch down and giggle when you read this. Tou wait, my lady. My turn is coming. I think I'll run down to Mount Mack next week to see my uncle- he's not very well. Don't have any dates. Sincerely, D. D, And Carol laughed again, and wiped her eyes. • The Rev. Mr. Duke's devotion to his elderly uncle In Mount Mark was a a Then 8he Smoothed the Letter Affec­ tionately and Curled Up oh the Bed. most beautiful thing to see. Every few weeks he "ran down for a few days," and if he spent most of his time re­ counting his uncle's symptoms before the sympathetic Starrs, no one could be surprised at that. He and Mr. Starr naturally had much in common, both ministers, and both--at any rate, he was very devoted to his uncle, and Carol grew up very, very fast, and smiled a great deal, but laughed much less frequently than In other days. There was a shy sweetness about her that ma'le her father watch her anx­ iously. "Is Carol sick, Grace?" he asked one day, turning suddenly to his sister-in- law. She smiled curiously. "N-no, I think not. Why?" "She seems very--sweet." "Yes. She feels very--sweet," was the enigmatic response. And Mr. Starr muttered something about women and geometry and went away, shaking his head. And aunt Grace smiled again. But the months passed away. Lark, not too absorbed in her own happiness to find room for her twin's affairs, at last grew troubled. She and Aunt Grace often held little conferences to­ gether when Carol was safely out of the way. 'Whatever do ypf suppose Is the matter?" Lark would wonder anxious­ ly. To which aunt always answered patiently, "Oh, Just wait. He isn't sure she's grown-up enough yet." Then there came a quiet night when Carol and Mr. Duke sat in the lining room, idly discussing the weather, and looking at Connie, who was deeply im mersed in a book on the other side of the big reading lamp;. Conversation between them lagged so noticeably that they sighed with relief when she finally laid down her book, and twisted around in her chair until she had them both In full view. "Books are funny," she began bright­ ly. "I don't beBew half the written stuff ever did happen--I don't believe it could. Do girls ever propose, Mr. Duker . No one ever proposed to me," he an­ swered, laughing. ~ "No?" she queried politely. "Maybe no one wanted you badly enough. But I wonder if they ever do? Writers say so. I can't believe it somehow. It seems so -- well -- unnecessary, some way. Carol and I were talking about it this afternoon." Carol looked up startled. "' "What does Carol think aboult it?" he queried. "Well, she said she thought In ordi­ nary cases girls were clever enough to get what thev wanted without asking Carol moved restlessly in her chair, her face drooping a little, and Mr. Duke laughed. "Of course I know none. of. our girls would do such a thing," said Connie, serene in her family pride. "But Carol says she must admit she'd like to find some way to make a man say what anybody could see with half an eye he wanted to say anyhow, only--" Connie stopped abruptly. Mr. Duke had turned to Carol, his keen eyes searching her face, but Carol sank In the big chair and turned her face away from him against the leather cushion. "Connie," she said, "of course no girl would propose, no girl would want to--I was only joking--" Mr. Duke laughed openly then. "Let's go and take a walk, shan't we, Carol? It's a grand night." "You needn't go to get rid of me," said Connie, rising. "1 was just going anyhow." "Oh, don't go," said Mr. Pake po­ litely. "Don't go," echoed Carol pleadingly. Connie stepped to the doorway, then paused and looked back at them. Sud­ den illumination came to her as she scanned their faces, the man's clear- cut, determined, eager--carol's shy and scared and--hopeful. She turned quick­ ly back toward her sister, pain darken­ ing her eyes. Carol was the last of all the girls--it would leave her alone and he was too old for her. Her lips quivered a little, and her face shad­ owed more darkly. But they did not see it. The man's eyes were intent on Carol's lovely features, and Carol was studying her slender fingers. Connie drew a long breath, and looked down upon her sister with a great protecting tenderness In her heart. She wanted to catch her up in her strong young arms and carry her wildly out of the room--away from the man who sat there--waiting for her-- Carol lifted her face at that moment, and turned slowly toward Mr. Duke. Connie saw her eyes. They were lumi­ nous. Connie's tense figure relaxed then and she, turned at once toward the door. "I am going," she said in a low voice. But she looked back again be­ fore she closed the door after her. "Carol," she said In a whisper, "you-- you're a darling.- I-^-rve always thought so." - Carol did not hear Irer--she did not hear the door closing behind her--she had forgotten Connie was there. Mr. Duke stood up and walked quickly across the room and Carol rose to meet him. He put his arms about her, strongly, without hesitating. "Carol," he said, "my little song­ bird"--and he laughed, but very ten­ derly, "would you like to know how to make me say what you know I want to say?" "I--I--" she began tremulously, clasping her hands against her breast, nnd looking intently, as if fascinated, nt his square, firm chin so very near her eyes. She had never observed it so near at hand before. She thought It was a lovely chin--in another man she would have called It distinctly "bossy." "You would try to make me when you know I've been grittfng my teeth for years, waiting for yot to get grown up. You've been awfully slow about it, Carol, and I've been In such a hurry for you." She rested limply In his arms now, breathing in little bi^>ken. sighs, not trying to speak. "You have known It a long time, haven't you? And I thought I was hiding It so cleverly." He drew her closer in his arms. "You are too young for me, Carol," he said regret­ fully. "I am very old." "I--I like 'em old," she Whispered shyly. With one hand he drew her head to his shoulder, where he could fefel the warm, fragrant breath against the "lovely chin." "You like 'them' old," he repeated, smiling. "You are very generous. One DAY OF WASTE IS ENDED Every Sort of Refuse Now Peing Made Use Of In Some Way In Britain. How to avoid waste Is to be one of the lessons of the economy campaign, and at the ministry of food plans are being elaborated. In one department the visitor may see • samples of oils from fish-waste, potash from banana- stalks, fats from slaughter-house ref­ use, dried house swill for pig and poul­ try food, fish meal and grit for poultry from unsound fish, metals from old tins and scraps, and disinfectant pow­ der from flue-dust. A provincial mayor has collected a box of tinfoil saved from a year's but­ tonholes, to b« converted into tin. Liv­ erpool has plant for extracting poultry and pig foods, as well as fertilizers, from waste. \ Sheffield and Nottingham specialize in getting iron dut of unconsidered trifles, and Nottingham has also dur­ ing the present year recovered 400 tons of manure from refuse. Glasgow is systematically salvaging •the by-products of waste. Other towns are Introducing "digesters," the type of machine In which a dead horse can be tipped, with the result that fats and oils are secured, In addition to dried and prepared animal foods. It Is reckoned that the metals found in dustbins total one ton per 1,000 of the population per annum and that annually 250,000 tons of paper are wasted. Nearly everything thrown Into the dustbin has a commercial or chemical value. Not a scrap of metal should be cast aside, but all should be sold In ordinary trade channels, or handed to any collecting organization which may be operating in a district.--London old one is all I want you to like." 'But when he leaned toward her lips, Carol drew away swiftly. "Don't be afraidl of me, Carol. You didn't mind once when I kissed you." He laid his hand softly on her round cheek. "I am too old, dearest, but I've been loving you for years, I guess. I've been waiting for you since you were a little fresh­ man, only I didn't know it for a while. Say something, Carol--I don't want you to feel timid with me. . Yon love me, don't you? Tell me, If you do." "I--I." She looked up at him despe­ rately, "I--well, I made you say It, didn't I r "Did yon want me to ssiy It, dearest? Have yon been waiting, too? How long have you--p' "Oh, a long time; since that night among the ro^ b^^jt,,^parson­ age. • V Vr fAy . "Since tbenfv'Vn , "Yes; that my pledge when you kissed me. Be­ cause I--was waiting then." "Do you love me?" "Oh, P'fessor, don't make me say It right out in .plain English--not to-' night. I'm pretty nearly going to cry now, and--" She twinkled a little then, like herself, "you know what cry­ ing does to my complexion." But he did not smile. "Don't cry," he said. "We want to be happy to­ night. Yon will tell me tomorrow. To­ night--" "Tonight," she said sweetly, turning in his arms so that her face was toward him again, "tonight--" She lifted her arms, and put them softly about his neck, the laces falling back, and showing her pink, dimpled elbows. "Tonight, my dearest--" She lifted her lips to him, smiling. THE END. ONLY NEEDS TO BE ROUSED 4t>*\ DRIVING RIVETS SLOW WORK Not Only That, but Enormous Number of Them Are Needed In a Steel 8hip. " The' largest single Item In the labor of fabricating a steel ship is In the riveting of her hull; therefore the driving of rivets is taken as a standard of size and of progress by most of the shipbuilders. To build a 10,000 ton ship a week means the driving of about 650,000 rivets In that time. The Union shipyards of San Francisco, as at present equipped and freed from la­ bor troubles, can drive about 300,000 rivets, although in a record week it' drove 411,000 rivets; the four next largest yards In America--at Fore Riv­ er, Mass., at Newport News, Va., at Camden, and at Philadelphia upon the Delaware--can drive 200,000 to 275,000 rivets a week each. A half dozen smaller steel shipyards will drive from 50,000 to 150,000 each seven days. Riveting, despite all the inventions devised to speed it up, remains hand work and slow work. A riveting gang consists of two men and two boys-- the riveter, his "holder-on," the passer boy and the heater boy. The gang drives from 300 to 375 rivets In the course of a ten-hour day and Is tired at the end of it. But when you know that it takes four men all of a working day to drive an average of a little less than 350 rivets, you can begin to see the full size( of the labor problem of driving at least 650,000 rivets a week necessary to turn out a 10,000-ton ship at the end of that length of time. In other words, you need 1,200 men for the riveting gangs alone. Look at the matter from another an­ gle, writes Edward Hungerford In Har­ per's. Ten ships a week--the tremen­ dous program for 191S to which we stand committed--means 6,500,000 riv­ ets a week. And the rivet capacity of our five greatest yards--with a total working force of 50,000 men at the end of 1917--was but 1,350,000 rivets a week. And riveting represents only about 20 per cent in the construction of a ship.' , ' Making Life Worth While. To increase your earning capacity, you must be an energetic, live speci­ men of humankind. You should bo throbbing with . surplus power. You should possess' a degree of strength that will give you confidence and cour­ age and endurance. Then you can go on day after day, relates a writer, add­ ing to your skill and knowledge and power in your profession. And when you have climbed to the highest point on one sphere of endeavor, you will be ready to look around for other work, and continue to experience the delights that come only with the dally strug­ gle, required for the attainment of the objects one has in view. Do not forget the value of systematic effort. Do not waste your energies. Intelligent direc­ tion is all-Important. Force, to be of value, must be applied at the proper place. Effort, to be productive of re­ ward, must be directed by superior In­ telligence; ^ v7 Hands and Fe«£« ^ • At a busy crossing in Edinburgh a cabman was stopped by the policeman on point duty In order to allow the cross traffic to proceed. The man in blue, evidently proud of- his authority, kept the cabby waiting longer than was necessary. The cabman began to proceed, al­ though the hand of the policeman was against him. "Did ye no' see me haudln' up my hand?" roared the angry policeman. "Well, I did notice that It began to get dark suddenly," said the cabby; "bqt I didn't know It was your hand. Ye see, it's takln' me all my time tae keep my horse frae shyln' at ye* feetl" The Only Way. Only way to get the genuine mince pie is to marry Into the family where It la ^tinder Certain CoB«tlsna> Vftgir; CM Probably Be Awakened in Each Individual."T _ ** They tell us," mid Mr. Blinksome, "that we all have a tiger tn as, that we are all of us savages- under our skin; kept from revealing our true natures only by the restraining force of cus­ tom and the law. "In a general way I have always be­ lieved this to be true, and yet I have always supposed there must be ex­ ceptions. You take, for instance, a certain mild-mannered neighbor of ours whom we have known fOr many years, a man in all circumstances kind, gentle, forbearing; seeing good in everyone and willing to make excuses fpr everybody. There was one person who, I knew had no tiger. "Our mild-mannered neighbor drop* ped In to see us yesterday. Just after I had read something In the paper, and I picked the paper up again and read this thing to him. It was an account of something that the Ger­ mans had Jtlst done. "It was a circumstantial, careful, ex­ act and apparently truthful statement, and yet the thing described was some­ thing so contrary to all civilized usages that it seemed incredible, and I said to him: "'You don't believe that, do yanY "At that our mild-mannered neigh­ bor fired up. Fired up? He flamed up. "'Believe It?' he said. *1 believe every word of it,' find then he pro­ ceeded to tell me what he would to the Germans if he could. "Had hp a tiger in him? Well! "So now I am Inclined to think that we all have a tiger in us, that there is no exception; only with some of ns it takes one thing and with some another thing to make . the tiger mown." . r.Oj mA K, • • $£ y : Why Torpedoed 8hlps Si#k^ r. The committee appointed by the Council of the Institution of Naval Ar­ chitecture to inquire Into the effects of explosions of mines and torpedoes upon the structure of merchant ships find that there are three principal Causes of loss. First, the existence of a forward reserve bunker partitioned off from the cargo hold by a non-wa­ tertight bulkhead. A second cause of loss is the failure to close the water- tigbt door in the engine room bulk­ head leading to the shaft "tunnel. A third danger lies In the main drain pipes, leading from the bilge pumps to the different compartments, and pass­ ing through all watertight bulkheads, which are generally fractured in tor­ pedoed compartments. There should be non-return valves on the end of these pipes. The committee recom­ mends that bulkheads should be pro­ tected as far as possible from flying splinters, at least temporarily, by using timber or other suitable material as a splinter-screen.--Scientific American. ' * * »' Bacon and Beef. American bacon will be used to stretch out British beef supplies. The scheme of rationing, which already is in operation in London and the sur* rdundlng countries, is to be extended at once, and after this only two of the four weekly coupons will be available for the purchase of butcher's meat. The object is to diminish the demand for home grown cattle during the months when these can be fattened on grass. The new order limits the pur­ chase of beef, mutton and pork to 20 cents a head weekly, but does not af­ fect diners in restaurants and hotels, who are permitted to Exchange cou­ pons for4heat meals. Children over six will be entitled after April 14- to a full adult ration of meat All coupons are cashable for bacon and poultry. r Woman Champion Maker of Files. The title of world's champion arti­ ficial fly maker Is proudly claimed for Miss Alice Sherwln Coleman of New York, who for more than a decade has been making flies for anglers. Some idea of her reputation among the dis­ ciples of Izaak Walton may be gath­ ered from the fact that she and her assistants make $400,000 worth of flies for fishing enthusiasts every year. Miss Coleman makes 300 different varieties of flies regularly summer and winter, special orders bringing the number up to 1,500 varieties altogether; for such is Miss Coleman's reputation that exacting fishermen in the wilds of America sometimes catch strange flies that hover over particular streams and send them alive in a ventilated bottle so that she may study and re­ produce them accurately. Domestic *'8pella.M We know a wife who says she doesn't know *-hat her husband would do of a Sunday afternoon if it wasn't for his work bench in the cellar; and another wife we know thanks her stars when something happens to dis­ arrange the water system. Out comes her husband's alligator wrench--a weapon powerful enough to break the most stubborn spell. We shouldn't be surprised If this sapient lady some­ times tiptoes up to the attic, and with a hairpin or a buttonhook--those sov­ ereign woman's weapons--bends the plunger in the tank.--Richard Bow- land Kimball in the Ho'use Beautiful. The Hopeless Amateur. "It requires patience to be a success­ ful gardener." "Yes. But you can overdo It. I planted some seeds two years ago and I've waited all this time without a murmur for them to come up and do something. I'm going to give them one more summer and then if they don't make good I'm going to dig up the whole patch and start over*" ; , Belligerent Pacifism. "Are your constituents in favor of war?" "No," replied Senator Sorghum. "An* they think it's the business of this country to take up arms and eliminate any nation that insists on having war." A Sure Case. Mrs. A.--Can your husband claim exemption? Mrs. B.--Well, I don't see how he can be strong enough to fight abroad when he is too weak at home to take »• «aq>eL . ^ ilfew Xork.--The world that amuses or Instructs Itself by watching the changes in dress finds Itself highly diverted in the month of May. This Is the time for settlement. February Is full of rumors and cables" from Paris concerning the gowns that are exploited there by the dressmakers. During the mopth of March the clothes that atrive< ln America are shown first by the Importers, Who cater to the dressmakers, then by the dressmakers and shops, who cater to the public. After the first week of April the public takes a hand in the settlement of fashions and wears its new spring clothes at all hours, with reckless prodigality. ; Now, asserts a leading fashion au­ thority, we come to the month of ob­ servation. We see what has failed and what has Succeeded. We know what the public likes and what it has discarded. < Established Neckline. In the settlement of fashions which eomes this month there is one predom­ inant feature that interests the ma­ jority as well as the minority. It Is the new arrangement of the neckline. This style has been creeping on . us unawares since January, but it seems to have sprung out of ambush and at­ tacked the people as the warm weath­ er burst over the land. Those who were not observing fash- Ion closely went about with their shirtwaist collars pulled out over the Coat collars, or the wld6 collars of gulmpes pulled out over the bare edge of a one-picj&e frock. Tbe$, suddenly, the whole process seemed to be wrong. The careless public observed that the fastidious crowd had abandoned white coat col- "j j.a>m n.: s# -n r t P t - The sketch shows a gown of black satin, with tight skirt and pointed apron lined with white. The slim bodice is of white georgette crepe embroidered with bands of jet beads, lars. They also noticed that the neck­ line of a one-piece frock was not out­ lined by a collar except at the back. They noticed that sailor collars had disappeared from fashionable* gar­ ments. They realized that the neck­ line, instead of being V-shaped, was square and deeply decollete, or delta- < Smart Fade. "So'far, field flowers, very flat roses, lacquered quills and shoe-polish rib­ bon seem to be the chosen hat trim­ mings. Every one Is realizing that the bustle and draped back effects in dresses and suits are more or less a fad of the winter, and will not be thor­ oughly practical for the summer clothes that must be tubbed. A substitute must be found and It Is predicted that it will resolve Into the use of double and triple peplums and tier effects at the hips. This will be quite in keeping with the narrower skirts. Buckles are quite to the fore, per­ haps an echo of military fashions. These buckles are usually small and of a color harmonizing with the garment. "im shaped--the decolletage that we asH* elate with Dresden shepherdesses, Dolly Yarden styles, Mosartian opara ^ and Janice Meredith. This kind Of ' neckline was accepted only for frocks; * it should go wtthoot saying that it was 'y not contemplated for coats. But whatever the garment, lta neck* ft. line was no more hidden and* envel- oped by a white collar. It Is quite ~ probable that this somersault In fash- ions disturbed the minds of more | < women than even the incoming of the tight skirt, for it necessitated thought ^ and an entire change in the arrange­ ment of the garments which havt been carelessly worn in the same com» ^ biuatlon for several seasons. It mndf ^ one go Into numerous shops and r*> gard one's self for numerous momenta before mirrors in order to secure « satisfactory adjustment of the new fashion to one's neck and face. ^ ^ High Collar on Coat 8uHp. T ' And another movement In the ar> ;:7 rangement of the neck is disquieting. -k It is the introduction of the high col- lar at an hour when the high fashion designers decided to discard It, and the public was Informed that it was no longer in first fashion. No sooner \ had this edict gone out and been ac­ cepted than a vast number of women --well-dressed women, too--appeared with high loose collar, that either en­ veloped the chin or rolled in a loon ' fold beneath it. There are two or three practical things that every woman must some­ how manage to master In this new fashion if she Intends to look her during the warm-weather season. < One of them is that a coat suit re- ' quires some kind of collar at the back and sides of the neckline, to prevemt the rough material from resting against the skin. Another feature of the new neck ar­ rangement which It Is well to absorb Into the mind is that the blouse with the Italian decolletage is the best to ^ wear under all coats. It is wir^r to vf avoid superimposing one collar on an- 72 other, This Italian neckline may be round, or stragihf across the shoulders, or brought to the base of the ne&. The wearer must decide on that. Her features should determine the exact * curve which is employed. r? . Low Neck for Day Usage. ^ Another interesting detail of fasht0fe ; is the definite tendency toward a deep decollete for day usage. The neckline may be on the Italian model, or it mayr be on the American Colonial model, which brings the material high and tight against the back and side of the , neck and then dips it down to a deep square or deita.in front. The introduction of the high collftr seems to have come about through riitt- cessity rather than choice or inclina­ tion. True, there are smart women who insist, that their 6ne-piece frocks shall have these up-standing, flower- lilie collars that rise on the stem of the neck and open out wide to envelop the chin and the back of the head, but the majority of woipen have adopted high collars only with coat suits. They don't know any other kinds of collar to adjust with a jacket that is high In the neck and has rolling revers. They flnd that the wash blouse, which has a high turn-over collar and is worn with a cravat of black oir col­ ored picot ribbon, gives just the right silhouette to the neckline of an .every­ day coat suit. If this high collar can- \ not be adopted, then a low one must be worn with the suit, because of its collarless condition. The ' lessened number of chiffon blouses shown this summer Is indica­ tive of the lessened number of tailored suits worn, so the workers claim. (Copyright, 1918, by the MoClure Newspa­ per Syndicate.) Sumptuous Weaves. It is plainly noticeable among the French importations that the French fashion leaders have not thought it at all necessary to use cheap and plain materials. Indeed, in some in­ stances the stuffs seem more lavish than for some time past. To be sure, they are not at all flaunting. They Same Slim Lines. America still looks to Paris fbr In­ formation as to general silhouette, and many early rumors gave promise of a radical change when last-minute spring styles were launched. There has been no change, however. The Indicated waistline, approved by practically all of the well-known French designers of apparel, was in evidence in the very first American showing of spring gar­ ments, and even the many novel dra­ peries and tunics approved have not affected the general silhouette, which is slim and straight. Tunics and dra­ peries are closely reefed. 51 " ^ *' hide their gorgeousness under a bush­ el as it were. Cloth of gold on eve­ ning and dressy afternoon clothes is seen repeatedly, but it is veiled with chiffon or with t^ille, only being al­ lowed to peep through and disclose the sumptuousness of its weave. Ginghama Favored. For those who do their bit and do It by way of knitting and wearing ginghams, which 1s almost tyo easy a way of doing it and should really not be taken Into consideration, are shown the most attractive checked gingham blouses and bags and hats which do or do not match the blouses. * The hats and bags are made of the most delightful materials, which run all the way from satin, organdie and to straw and fiber. Odd Parasol. The more befrllled the better Is ap­ parently the watchword of the makers of an odd little parasol, which was of old blue organdie, covered with ruf­ fles or scalloped white organdie cut circular and slightly gathered. The hat showed a similar arrange­ ment of ruffles and blue ribbon with a rosebud or two in natural tints. The bag had rows of ruffles conceal­ ing the bottom of the bag, and ribbon And blue ofgandie formed the top| with Lingerie Yokes. In making up tatted lingerie yokes sew them to a foundation of net, cut­ ting the net the same shape as the yoke after it is sewed on it. This makes them wear much longer and Is also a big help In laundering then properly. . a decoration of the rosebuds set In a wreath partly overlapping the top ruffle. Handmade Blouse. ; : ,' The handmade blouse has never be4ft more popular nor more befrllled, thought it may follow the example of* blouse of pale blue batiste and boast |t severely high collar and a front whose only trimming was hand-sewn pin - tucks. The more strictly tailored blouses are usually of linen, and thess also show combinations of two color* Crepe de chine Is also used for the$fe waists, and blouses of dark taffeta ai# worn with tailored skirts. i t If i.. ' • • * * 1 Foulards Are Popular..^/\ • Foulards will undoubtedly nu)lc_1 among the most popular materials for afternoon wear this summer, and they are certainly deserving of favor. The(t» is nothing cooler looking than the dartt foulard with the little white figure, <uKt there Is nothing which wl'l give b*»r$f service. As a rule foulards are nt. as simply as possible, with detSt-ha?.^ collar and caffs oC ahoer vUn>