The following text may have been generated by Optical Character Recognition, with varying degrees of accuracy. Reader beware!

of Illinois Springfield.--Crop conditions In the northern part of the state remain good, but lack Vt rains In the south­ ern portions are doing vegetation , harm, according to the synopsis of weather and crop conditions for the week, issued by H. Merrill Wills, dis­ trict weather observer. The report follows: "There were moderate show­ ers in some sections of the north and central portions but the drought con­ tinues in the south and in portions of the central division. The oat harvest is nearly finished in the north portion and threshing is in progress in the south, with good yields reported. Win­ ter wheat threshing is about complet­ ed, with good to excellent yields. Spring wheat is practically all in abode and excellent yields are antici­ pated. As a restrtt of moderate show­ ers corn made excellent progress in the north half of the state but has been somewhat retarded in the south by the dry hot weather. It & tassellng and earing well. Fruit Is generally scarce. Potatoes. are in fair condi­ tion but the vines are dying in some localities. Meadows, pastures, truck and vegetables are good to excellent over the north half but are suffering from drought in the south." Monticello.--Exercises at Bement and Monticello marked the sixtieth an­ niversary of the arrangements made by Abraham Lincoln and Stephen A. Douglas for their memorable debates. The site of the Bryant home, Bement, where the arrangements for the de­ bates were made, was marked with a tablet, inscribed: "This, marks the site Of the home of F. E. Bryant, where Abraham Lincoln and Stephen A. Douglas conferred and decided on the seven joint debates to be held In Illi­ nois." At the W. H. Kratz farm, near Monticello, a tablet was unveiled, in­ scribed : "Here, on July 28, 1858, Abraham Lincoln and Stephen A. Dtmglas first agreed to meet In Joint debate in Illinois." I Chicago.--Illinois must supply 40,- unskilled laborers to essential war industries during August and Septem­ ber under the first labor draft order received here from John B. Densmore, director general of the United States employment service in Washington, D. C. Mr. Densmore added a ^prediction that his quota may be doubled in the ne$r future. There was no indication to the order where the men are to be and inquiries were dispatched to Washington immediately asking if the men were to work in other states. A drain of thousands of workers would Mrtously cripple Illinois industry, it ySfB pointed out ' > Springfield.--Paroling of prisoners in comparatively large numbers as a step toward meeting the war labor shortage, an experiment in which Illi­ nois Is said to-be a pioneer, is meet­ ing with complete success, according t4r state prison officials here. All pris­ oners used in essential Industry, it is declared, have kept the trust imposed in them. "We have been very much gratified with the way the men have worked;" said John H. Whitman, su­ perintendent of prisons. "Those trust­ ed to act as they know they should are not disappointing us. The men have shown enthusiasm for their work have proved efficient and deter- Dined." Springfield.--Provost Marshal Gen­ eral Crowder asked Illinois for 406 special service men in two calls re­ ceived by Adjutant General Dickson. Two hundred and six report August 15 to the Northwestern university, Evans- ton, for training as carpenters, sheet- metal workers and wireless operators, and 200 to the recruit camp at Syra­ cuse, N. Y., on August 5 for instruc­ tion in fire and guard duty at Eastern ports. Only white men in class 1 are to be taken, the order sajrs. Volun­ teers will be accepted. -Chicago.--Martin A. Ryerson, direc­ tor of the war savings committee for QStscls decided to msks. Pershing pa­ triot week, August 16 to 22 inclusive, « state-wide affair. It is planned to forward to General Pershing the names of 3,000,000 buyers of War Sav­ ings stamps so that in Illinois there will be a backer not only for every «oldler in France but for every man under arms or in training for the Unit­ ed States as well. *! Springfield.--Illinois communicable disease health report for the week ending July 27 as given by state de­ partment of public health officials to federal authorities follows: Diphthe­ ria, 91 cases, of which Chicago has 74; scarlet fever, 81, of which Chicago has 19; smallpox 18; meningitis, 4; polio­ myelitis, S. The report shows an im­ provement over the previous week. iDixon.--Officers elected by the Illi- «9l8 State Sheriffs' association in con­ vention here were: President, George (kholl, Joliet; vice president, C. H. Draper, Fulton county; seiretary, Ed­ ward Petrie, St Claire county; treas­ urer, George S. Flescher, McLean county. Chicago.--Great Lakes shipping, tied as a result of the sailors' water- tenders' and firemen's strike, was re­ sumed when a telegram from repre­ sentatives of the unions to Washing­ ton was received by Thomas A. Han­ sen, local secretary of the unions. All points asked for by the men were granted, according to Hanson. A meet­ ing in Washington between representa­ tives of the union. Lake Carriers* asso­ ciation and the United States shipping board will formulate a further under­ standing, under which the sailors will work in the future. An increase in wages is one point to bo arbitrated in Springfield.--After Judge Frank Burton In the circuit court dismissed idle injunction proceeding to restrain •Secretary of State Bmmerson from placing the state banking proposition •on the ballot at the November elec­ tion, attorneys for Louis G. Spies of Chebause, Kankakee county, served notice that the proceedings will be re­ newed at the September term of court Judge Burton held that the proceed­ ing* had been filed under the wrong statute. Spies alleges that the state banking bill was legally faulty when It was finally signed by Governor Low- ::' Springfield.--The ̂ progmmand prlae awards for the stated-wide better ba­ bies' conference, which is to be one of the leading features of the Illinois centennial state fair here, was an­ nounced by Dr. C. St Clair Drake, di­ rector of public health. During the two weeks, August 12 to 24, upward of 1,000 little tots under five years of age will be submitted to scientific tests to determine their physical and mental status. These tests will be ap­ plied by a specially trained corps of medical experts and each child will be graded in accordance with the stand­ ard method of scoring young children. High-scoring children in the numerous divisions will receive valuable awards and there will be special prizes con­ sisting of Liberty bonds for the high­ est-scoring boy and the highest-scor­ ing girl. The mother of the highest- scoring child in the conference will receive the Jacob Bunn award, a gold watch, valued at $125. Twins, of which eight pair are* already entered in the contests, will be awarded duplicate prizes. Families of six children six­ teen yean of age will get special awards. Springfield.--Foreign-born residents of Illinois are to be educated in Ameri­ can ideals and citizenship. The work Is being undertaken by the Illinois di­ vision of a national committee on fed' eral training. The committee is yet in the process of formation. Among its members will be leading men and women of the state. They will insti­ tute a campaign of education along citizenship training for all aliens. The Americanization is for the purpose of better enabling these alien residents to raise children and" to combat the after-war problems. It is probable classes will be established in schools. Much of the instruction, however, will be given by committee members to in­ dividuals In homes and places most convenient for the teaching. The plan Is not alone confined to Illinois, but Is national in scope. Similar committees are being formed In every state in the Union for the same purpose. Chicago.--Cook county gained $35,- 014,047 in personal property during the year from April, 1917, to April, 1918. This is one of the greatest gains ever made. The real figures are much greater, as under the law Liberty bonds are exempt from taxes, and many millions of dollars' worth of bonds are not included In the asses­ sors' total valuation figures made pub­ lic. The total personal porperty valu­ ation of the county Is $288,465,847, as compared with $252,851,799, the valu­ ation last year. In levying taxes the law provides that the levy shall be on only one-third of the full valuation. The figures quoted are the full cash valuations, and Include household property, stocks and bonds, cash in bank, automobiles, stocks of merchan­ dise, etc. Chicago.--An increased Care, prob­ ably six cents, will result soon from the Wage boost of from $4,500,000 to $5,000,000 a year granted to approxi­ mately 14,000 employees of Chicago street car and elevated lines. The de­ cision which makes the increase In fares necessary was handed down bj the war labor board. It grants an In­ crease of approximately 40 per cent to the employees of the Chicago lines and one ranging from 35 to 65 per cent to those In other cities. By the award the maximum pay for surface line employees was Increased from 99 cents an hour to 48 cents an hour, or 9 cents an hour. The maximum pay for elevated railroad employees was fixed at 50 cents an hour. The former maximum was 41 cents an hour. Springfield.--'Recruiting of coal miners for regular army service must stop at once in Illinois, according to an order received at the Springfield recruiting offices from Capt. William B, Mitchell of Peoria, head officer of the district "The coal Industry," says the captain, "must not tie interfered with through enlistments. Recruiting officers will give this matter their per­ sonal and Immediate attention and make careful inquiries relative to each applicant If the man has been em­ ployed In or about a coal mine, he Is not necessarily barred, but to quit with the intention of enlisting must be prohibited." Springfield".--The United States de­ partment of agriculture has called upon Illinois for a 18 per cent increase In Its 1918 wheat crops, according to a report made to the state council of defense by its food production and conservation committee. In other words, Illinois farmers are asked to sow 2,935,000 acres to wheat this fall, as against 2,002,000 acres last fall. The report says in part: "In Illinois the acreage sown to winter wheat in the fall of 1917, totaled 2,002,000 acres. The quota assigned'to Illinois for 1918 Is 2,935,000 acres or an Increase over 1917 of 13 per cent" , Springfield.--A possible scarcity of Christmas trees this Christmas Is wen in an order Issued by Charles Adklns, director of the state department of agriculture prohibiting their shipment into Illinois from eastern states after August 1 because the trees from that section of the country are reported in­ fested with "gipsy moth," considered dangerous to orchards and fruit crops. Springfield.--Lighting and power plants of Industrial concerns In Illi­ nois are to be combined as a fuel conservation measure. Every - estab­ lishment maintaining such plants in proximity to others will be compelled to consolidate. The state fuel admin­ istration is fostering the plan. By It they hope to save 15,000,000 tons of coal this year. A committee has al­ ready been formed for the purpose of Investigating the best methods of pro­ cedure and agents are at work through­ out the state gathering data. Regula­ tions compelling the combinations will be issued as son as all the lnforma- . Chicago.--Ten million words will constitute the records of the I. W. W. trial here, court stenographers esti­ mated. The government's effort to prove 100 I. W. W. leaders guilty of sabotage and sedition Inserted 28,350 typewritten sheets into the court archives. The defense will add as many. The defense will spend $50,000 in its effort to prove the I. W. W. a loyal organization and to disprove charges it fought conscription. Thir­ ty-five defendants and 107 non-mem­ bers thus far have testified' for the de­ fense. The governments costs iftil Jjrbyl I46 wltamm. HOW FARM FOLKS HELP IN THE WAR tittle Stories From Real Life Wustratmo How They Back Up Unde Sam. LIBERTY 6MDS TEACflTHHFT Cneourage Savin® Habit In Those .Who Never Saved •afore- •. <•'* mrtt Criaia Domande the v " - -5 Beet From AH of Ui> . By HERBERT MYRICK. rtliiiint of ths National Farm Pomr Group of Agricultural Papers. Did you read that item in the news­ papers the other day, of a one-time distinguished and prosperous cttlsen of Chicago who died suddenly in the hospital, unknown, alone, unloved? He was an old man, a victim of ad­ versity, forgotten by the acquaintances of his prosperity. The authorities were about to consign the body to the pot­ ters' field when they found In his pock­ et a Liberty bond for $50 and a cer­ tificate of a fraternal lodge to which he had once belonged. That society was notified and gave him a Christian burial, the undertaker and cemetery accepting the bond In payment for coffin and lot" Jamie, We Salute You I A good man and true is Jamie Bliss, age five years, who lives with mamma and papa on a farm near Eau Claire, Wis. Jamie had heard all the discus­ sion about Liberty bonds and Thrift stamps, and, not yet being established in business for himself, was puzzled a little to know how such a little boy could have a part in this great un­ dertaking. At the same time he learn­ ed how sorely our fighting men need woo! and the great idea came to him. Without consulting anyone, Jamie started about the farm harvesting from hedges and wire fences the little wisps of wool left there as his father's sheep pastured. As a result of his expedition Jamie came Into the house with his pockets and Inside of bis waist bulging with wool. Mamma Bliss was somewhat afctonlehed when he explained that he was gathering wool to sell so he could buy Thrift stamps, but being a wise mother, she saw t^e point quickly. • *• Since then Honorable Jamie, wool gatherer to Uncle Sam, makes dally ex­ cursions Into the sheep pasture. Al­ ready his wool has purchased two $5 War Savings stamps and a good start toward another one. This, folks, Is something which was not taught out of a book, but It is a sample of the patriotic citizenship now growing up, ready to stand at the helm a few decades' hence. * ' t Becoming a Bondholder. ^ Among my friends for years la a hard-working farmer with wife and several children. He never seemed to quite "get there." Though he work­ ed hard, he just lacked the knack, of getting a bit ahead. During the past year he seemed to have prospered. When I saw him last week he said: "It's this way: I subscribed $50 for a Liberty - bond last year, and simply had to pay for It. ] did so by paying - in every dollar I could spare, Instead of spending money for things we could just as well do without It is curious how one accumu­ lates If they go-at it that way. "I see now that one reason why I never saved any money was because I didn't have anything like this to take my cash a little at a time. I used to think that I would begin saving when I had my bills paid and $2S to the good, but I have discovered at this late date that the way to do it is to save a little at a time and put It by as yon get It. I have been surprised to find that the same Is true of so many other farmers, especially renters. What they have put into the Liberty bond is money that would have slipped through their fingers. They would have nothing to show for it. whereas now they have got a bond earning good Interest, while their money is helping to lick the kaiser. My first bond Is now paid in full and I am beginning to save up my subscription to the fourth Liberty bond." This reminds me of stllf another case where the boys and girls have earned and saved along with their parents until their subscription for each of the three Liberty loans are now paid up. They did not see how they could raise the money for their first subscription, but their second was double that, and the third was Mil larger. The oldest boy watt taken by the draft, which made the family all the more determined. The mothev Is saving her egg money, each of the children has a bit of a garden from which they are selling stuff, one of the girls is a member of the pig club, and the oldest boy still at home has quarter of an acre of onions that promises a splendid crop. The fa­ ther is harvesting a heavy crop of -ilBERTY BOND IN FIRE Mixed With Newspapers ft Was (fee* for Kindling. Mrs*. Charles Stoeckel of George­ town, Del., found It rather cool and damp one day recently and decided to kindle a little wood fire , la one of her stoves. She used an old newspaper or two picked up from the. center table, to start the wood. Among the papers was a $50 Liberty bond, which her husband bad just purchased at the wheat, ami' last mind to devote not less one of the proceeds to the war. This one family is planning to subscribe $1,000 for the fourth Liberty loan, and If all goes well, will be able to p*y down nearly half the amount. A Horde Of Hwta at Your Deer* Ton'know what they would do to you and your women--a fate far worse than death. Yon know how Huns have laid Hare the countryside they have conquered--no aSimal or plant aft» lowed to survive, even trees and vines cut off close to the ground. Rural homes demolished, barns burned. Ton knew how the Bodies enslave the farmers of Belgium, Poland, the Ukraine. Words cannot depict the horror of It - : v To prevent the same thing happen­ ing right here to you and your fam­ ily. to your own community, state and nation™that is what our boys are fighting for "over there." It is a question of right over might! Shall liberty be destroyed by slavery? This Is the auestlon the war Is to an­ swer for you and me and for genera­ tions yet unborn. This final struggle for the survival of the fittest among humans demands every ounce of our energy, every cent of our money. Noble men and wom­ en are patriotically devoting some or all of their time, without money and without price, to help Uncle Sam win a victory. Others are giving produce or money to the good cause. Millions of our healthiest young men, the very seed of the race, are sacrificing their jives that you and I and others may live in peace. The very least that each of us can do now Is to lend our money to Uncle Sam so that he will have the funds with which to fight. The war la cost­ ing billions. The only way the gov­ ernment can get the money Is to bor­ row it from the people or tax It out of them. The more the public lends to the government the^less taxes it will have to pay. You can help In .this crisis by sub­ scribing to the fourth Liberty loan. These government bonds are the safest Investment on earth. They are abso­ lutely good. They yield good interest You can get your interest money twice a year. If you have to use your prin­ cipal, you can sell your bond any min­ ute, or you can use it as security at the bank to borrow for temporary wants. The latter Is the better way, because it doesn't help the government any for you to sell your bond or for somebody else to buy your bond. Get your bond direct from the government; then your money goes direct to the government and will be used by it to pay the wages of soldiers and sailors and to furnish the ships and munitions with which they shall win tfae yic- tory. Must Do Our Beat. It is up to each of us to do not our bit but our best. It's a question of life or death. Simplify, economize, go without things, so that the effort, time, thought and money thus saved may be transmuted into the things that shall enable the American flag to fly over Berlin--a symbol of the new civiliza­ tion which is to Insure peace through victory In our rural homes, on our terms. In the trenches, in other branches of serv­ ice, in subscriptions to the Liberty bonds and War stamps, our American farmers have repeatedly gone over the top. Their efforts, their patriotism, their loyalty, have been universally recognized. Now In this fourth Lib­ erty loan our rural folks will show the same generous confidence in the eternal principles of human liberty and of self government that were cham­ pioned by those Middlesex farmers: "Their flags to April breeze unfurled, Who fired the shot heard "round the world." GOES WOOING IN AN AIRSHIP Maiden's Neighbors lit London Sub­ urb Have Fears for Their Roofs. . London.--A pretty bit 'of chivalry was seen in a London suburb the other dav. Earl.v in the morning the knight- errant was out on his airplane and was flying low--so low as to, make the ten­ ants of the terrace anxious about their roofs. On the miniature lawn in the center of the 30-foot garden the maiden wait ed until there fluttered down through the morning mist a little streamer of white material. It missed the garden and fell into tbe roadway. The maiden rushed out and picked up her love letter. The neighbors' curtains resumed their stillness, and the little episode of these grim days was closed. - Discard Hun Music BoeKfc. ^ Ban Francisco.--Because several songs In the music books used in Cali­ fornia public schools savored of Ger­ man origin, with perhaps a trace of the well-known German propaganda In them, the state board of education has decreed that the books must go Into the discard. A new series has been prepared fbr the pupils, which, it is announced, is "free from all German taint" •' .bank for his daughter, Nellie, and had iald on the table until he could pre­ sent It Tbe bond was burned to ashes, but Stoeckel Is trying to get a new one, as he has the number and the bank officials distinctly re«fe»bei him buying it. ^ • ' • Build Ship In Fifteen Days. Workman, Clark & Co., shipbuilders at Belfast, Ireland, have achieved a world's record In completing an 8,000- ton standard vessel in fifteen days af­ ter she was launched. man is too patriotic that War Negleeta His Family So a#.,Jp War Stamps and Wlfi Complains, . -KWA-,. • * Milwaukee, Wis.--John Sadovskl is a' patriotic man--too patriotic. Uncle Bam entered a Wkr over in Europe April 6, 1917, and ever since theh John's patriotism has been activie. Recently Uncle Sam fathered the "Baby Bond," known officially as tbe John liked the look Stamp--very well. He spent his entire salary therefor, although he has a wife and family. The wife is patriotic, too; but she needs food and believes gins at home; ~ So she went to court :•! - Now John is oh probation to sup­ port his wife and , use only excess in­ come for War Stamps, after the fam­ ily has been well fed, well clothed and well housed. Ferret's Night Off an Orgy of ^laughter. 'Zaj&i*1 "I?*!*' » A , Uttle Kilter Left Thick frail of Dead Which He Had Destroyed for tile l^tre Joy of Slaying, and "Went Home. dW m His mother was a ferret lean, yel­ low and pink eyed and a she devl) to boot says a writer In London An­ swers. His father was worse, a wild pole­ cat of the mountains, ami * worse devil than ever. But he, the cherub, was so soft and furry and fat and creamy, and, though he bad got pink eyes, there seemed to be nothing else of his mother and father about him. He never bit, he never spat, and he never used bad lan­ guage, and he lived upon bread and milk, like a gentleman. * So he was till the spring broke. It was their own fault, the ferret- era. They took him out rabbiting, aa usual. They put a collar with a bell ' on round his neck, as usual, and a long, long string on the collar, as usual, and they turned him Into ,a rabbit warren, as usual. And he sneeaed three times, as usual, and h4 walked docilely down the first rabbit hole he came to, as usual, to turn out ' the rabbits from their burrows, as usual, that the sportsmen outside might shoot them as they bolted. So far, until he got Into'the middle of the mazes of tunnels, the Inky dark­ nesses, and the stuffy heat, full of the smell of castor oil--don't know' why, by the way---and he could hear the drumming of rabbits' feet fleeing before his ghostly, terrible self, every­ thing happened as usual. Then- nothing did. He was palled up with a jerk that nearly choked him. He tried going for­ ward, but it was all no good. He had only a yard of play either way. His line was entangled In a root The hours passed, and the ferreters, after trying every device known to man to get him out, gave It up and went home. The cherub did not give It up. He worried slowly, and he chafed, he pulled, and tugged, he backed, and he sweated, and he sneezed, and finally hia collar came undone or broke. The cherub sneezed three times, and walked three yards. Then he realized he was free. It was the first time In all his life he had been free, and it acted upon him. In that second his mother, plus his father, got to work in his own body, and he began. It was really very clean killing. Fif­ teen rabbits done to death, each with a single, clean fang stroke behind thf ears--was not so bad for one small ferret. But he Improved, for he slew 20 In the next hour--leaving every carcass untouched where it lay--and, getting thirsty, came above ground for wa|er. The water he did not find, but discovered fowls in a fowlhouse in­ stead, and, as I said, being thirsty, drank blood. There were no live fowls in that hen roost when he left He visited the hutches of the Belgian hares, which he slew, and the pigeon cote, where he got more blood. After that he returned a mile across country, killing three partridges on the way; drank at the dog's trough-- biting the dog badly In the process- walked into his own hutch and was found curled up, calmly asleep, among the hay next morning. Rabbit Meat for Wartime Food. Wartime conservation of beef and pork has'enabled a Kansan to develop a rather extraordinary business in the marketing of wild rabbits, both jacks and cottontails. A rabbit-packing plant has been established and Is now ship­ ping .frozen bunnies by the tens of thousands. A recent contract called for 480,000 pounds of jackrabblt meat. The jacks average four pounds each when dressed. This means that approximate­ ly 120,000 rabbits were required to fill the order. The fur Is disposed of at a handsome profit. It IB used in the manufacture of high-grade felt, such as enters Into the making of men's hats. All waste products are converted Into fertilizer. The industry also rids the country of a crop-destroying vest. --Popular Mechanics Magazine. Two Sidea to Everything. Tbe way we look at the world Is largely a matter of choice. There are two sides to everything. We can let our nllnds dwell on the world's beau­ ties or on Its unsightly spots. We can look for sweet or. ignoble traits in those about us. It is a matter of choice whether we shall emphasize the cheering and helpful experiences of every day, or tnose which are disagree­ able and discouraging. There Is only one answer to such questions. Keep the bright thought uppermost. Look for the beautiful. Forget everything that is not helpful and stimulating. If your mind is full of gloomy fancies, it is not because you are more unfortunate than your neigh­ bors, but because y<4u have not made as wise a choice as they. Which side do jroji look for? UKif teaching the Boys to Slngf^iJJl A distinguished young musician re­ cently Joined the English army for the purpose of teaching the boys to sing. Attached to the royal air force, he has been commissioned to train the men at t^e various centers In choral singing. th\|s dispensing with the necessity for bands. The effect upon the spirits, the morale and the discipline of the men has been excellent. They have devel­ oped a keen interest in singing, and many of them have been found, to their own surprise, to possess excel­ lent voices. In view of the success of the movement it will, probably be ex­ tended to other branches of the army, especially where the formation oC.-a band is out of the question. ' -- . Where He Stopped. "lip. Bliggins speaks four or five languages," remarked Miss Cayenne. "Valuable accomplishment" "It would be If he could think up something worth aaytng In any one of Styles Out Old Fabrics New York.--Paris la never handi­ capped In creating fashions by the actions of other designers. That is why she is powerful. America has al­ ways suffered under this handicap be­ cause she has followed Paris, asserts a prominent fashion authority. She has never been inclined to risk the exploitation of fabrics, fashions and colorings that were not sponsored by the mother of fashions. It is said of us that we acknowledge the bes{: in every nation and bring It to our shores. We know the best In W:lt« One of the new black taffeta gown a that la far from commonplace. The aklrt Is a aeriesx of email rufflee edged with white silk cord and cut In peg-top fashion. The allm bodice Is mounted on a yoke of taffeta braided with white cord, and the ahert sleeves are cut In one with the yoke. There la a pink rose with green leavea at the waist, and there are green ahoee and stockings. «very department of art, science and literature. If we are compelled to put our knowledge to practical use, we at least have the best to go on., We are not Ignorant The time has come for this experi­ ment, as we all know, and the observer thinks that a few medals of honor should be distributed to those who have gone "over the top" in designing clothes in this country. It took great commercial courage and It required a sound knowledge of the Amerioan public. What Franoe Did America Doea. Here are two anecdotes which ac­ centuate the point They happened a dozen years apart. Mme. Paquin saw several bolts of checked silk In a man ufacturer's hands. Neither the weave, the coloring nor the design was in fashion, to quote her own phrase. The manufacturer complained that he had no call for this quantity of material and that he would sell It for about a frapc and a half a yard. Mme. Pa­ quin took It all, went to her salona on the Rue de la Paix, turned the cheap check silk into an alluring frock of her own design, and then wore it at Trouville-by-the-Sea. She made the frock, the design, the color and the fabric fashionable. Everyone wanted to wear what she wore. She spld every ladt of the material at n pdj9 that brought her unmeaaured proift on the transaction. Last month an American designee* was looking over the stock of a lacw Importer. "Nothing new," mid the importer. "Here I am held up wit]* about fifty Spanish lace scarfs which I bought at a venture, thinking I could distribute them in the trade in Amer­ ica, but no one took them. The one answer was that they are not In fashion." , The designer,, said that if the Im­ porter would give him one be would turn it into a gown that would sell all the other scarfs, on condition that he received a commission on their sale. The bargal^.was closed. The gown- was designed. It sold immediately- It was copied so fast that the other- ,49 scarfs melted away like snow. ^ That is a good example of tfen- change that haa come over the Ameri­ can merchant and the American do* signer. We no longer have to alt what is the fashion, but are probably enabled to make the fashion for oar own continent Management of Black Taffeta. t It la easy to realize that taffeta 1UMP> come into a first summer fashion, al­ though the popular mind does not re* gard it as one of the lovely weave# of the world, because it is plentiful. There Is no trouble about getting alt the taffeta one wants, and it is beat that we model our wardrobes for the near future on the materials that can he bought in this country in sufficient quantity to correspond to our needs. Much can be done with this mate­ rial that*wlU result In a*gown out of the ordinary and conspicuous for charm and cleverness. If you could have seen a woman who came Into a restaurant for dinner wearing a cer­ tain black taffeta gown, you would have been convinced in the twinkling of an eye that the fabric matters noth­ ing if the designer has cleverness. The skirt was made of narrow ruffles that extended from waist to ankles, each ruffle edged with a white silk cord. The hem was excessively narrow. The foundation for these ruffles fitted the figure like a sheath. There was a bodice, straight and sim­ ple, and the major part of It was m yoke with short sleeves which waa braided with white cord In a fantastic design. At the side of the waist waa a deep pink satin rose with green vel­ vet leaves. The sllpperr and stock­ ings were green. There was nothing demure about this black taffeta go vim. Treat Blue Serge In Varioua Way* Blue serge is a fabric that will •!*-. ways be with us, aa far as the mano- facturers and the war board can look ahead. It Is usually midnight blue, and. given a few yards of it in this color, the designers do not want to sit down and turn it out into Insignificant frocks and inconspicuous suits. A woman who came to a "defense" luncheon one day wore a blue serge gown that was the product of a defer designer and it surely turned our Ideas about suits topsy-turvy. The coat was split up the back as well as the front It was worn over a long cuirass blouse, the kind thai gains In importance every day. Tbe blouse was made of a richly embroid­ ered tricot In blue, black and dashed of dull red. It did not ding tightly ta the figure, but outlined It more than usual. Over It hung tie loose blue serge coat opening In a deep V In the mtddle of the front and the blade. It was closed at the neckline and had a collar of the serge. There was a looaf belt of the material, and the skirt was exceedingly narrow and short (Copyrlsht 1918, by the McClure N« per Syndicate.) GIRLS' AND BOYS' CLOTHING For "dress-up" occasions the girls will require two or more sets of lin­ gerie underwear, notes a correspond­ ent This should be simply made to save time in making and laundering. Trimmings may be simple homemade edgings, feather stitching, rick-rack braid or one of the durable torchon or cluny edges. Sunday frocks will be of white m»y he of poplin or gab­ erdine in the severer one-piece styles, or of muslin in a softer design showing gathers and frills. The "dress-up" needs of the boy of seven and over are fully met by a two- piece suit of Canadian tweed, with hat or cap to match. Shirt waists or shirts of striped madras are worn with this suit. The younger boy's "Sunday" suit can be a shirt-waist one, the panta­ loons, which button to the waist, be­ ing made of either washable material or serge. He will need a separate coat. Wartime economy will suggest that aa many as possible of these garments be made from second-hand material. The Indispensable sweatercoat may be FASHION HINTS. The , average width skirt is two yards. .Velvet and organdie make a fash­ ionable combination. The sleeveless coat fashion Is gain­ ing* in popularity. Foulard in large polka-dot design Is very fashionable., A new style of cape foe sport wear la of neutral linen. Chenille dotted veilings have taken a new lease of life. Sleeveless gulmpes are mad$.tQ,F$fir with bolero jackets. • , f T >• i f -ft 4. Dried Soup Mixture*; The various evaporated vegetables may be used separately in cookery In most of the ways in which fresh mate­ rials are employed. They find their widest usefulness, however, in soup mixtures or In combinations designed for use in the preparation of the popu­ lar vegetable boiled dinner, since they penult the serving of any favorite vege­ table combination at all seasons of the year. * The various vegetables, after j tnplnc, mhy be mtxed In definite pro- fashioned from a discarded grown-up one by redylng and cutting it over., Boys' shirt waists may be made from the best parts of men's discarded shirts, which are usually of excellent material. A woman's cloth skirt will , make knickers for the small boy bloomers or skirt for the girl. if In buying new materials avoid toas* colors* Lavenders, greens and bSss?p cannot be relied upon. Ribbon and Cording. Half.inch nsvy ribbon stitched to tfci material between rows of cording la the only trimming on navy and white blouse, fastening down the back. There are three rows of the ribbon and cording about the round neck and the' euffs, the cording controlling the essary fullness of the garment; ex< for this, the model is plain. Voile and Gingham. charmingly printed hi gSHffP ham patterns is expected to competf seriously with the gingham in frocks. I portions prior to storage, or they may V b e s t o r e d s e p a r a t e l y a n d m i x e d a U t t t a " • " i at n time as needed for use. . f • ^ j About Skirts. Wide silk braid used aa a binding outlines the lines of many separate skirts. Any number of new rnodeia are made with yokes, with the podt«fta inserted where the lines of the yoke or belt form a novel cut * There la an absence of applied pockets on tbe latest skirts. IX when purchasing tinned maat it , .J Is noticed that tbe tin bulges oat* 4 /; > ward in any part the meat Is prob> - H ably unfit to eat, any outward bulge : being a sign that the tin was not ^ properly sealed and that air has got la. •, , . ' 4 " A ample sugar sance'Si orcellwfl ft* .l. puddings and waffles. A good scrapple la and Inexpensive beef. Foulard in large vary fashionable. '-Airy*