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unskilled labor draft tor war work threatens to take oat of Illinois, by October 1* 48,000 unskilled laborers. In spite of A condition in which, as Charles S. Monroe of the state advisory commit­ tee said, laborers are now almost un­ obtainable. Illinois war work has In* lireased. in the last few months, but Is •till far from being in proportion to the population of the state. When all fkflders of war contracts were asked by the United States employment serv­ ice to state their unskilled labor needs .|lor August and September, Illinois manufacturers asked for only 13,500 wen. The needs of the entire coun­ try were totaled, and each state as­ signed a quota in proportion to its rpulation. Illinois was informed that would be expected to supply 40,300 men, of which this state's share was «nly 13,500. further information was y given that this quota would probably ;be doubled by supplementary calls. - .The Illinois estimates for prospective > )aeeds in 60 days is only 32,000 men. jThls is considered liberal, and it is mot believed more men than this cap |>e used on war work. If the quota ' (which the state must furnish is : (doubled by supplementary calls, In- icreasing ti to 80,000, of which only '[82,000 can be used at home, then 48.- / 000 will have to go to other states, f jchiefly to the Atlantic seaboard. Offl- i-Clals of the employment serlvce in f Chicago made these figures public | ̂ut refused to draw conclusions or to I; fcomment on them. | ; Chicago.--Aliens not liable to Blill- 1, . jtnry service must pay taxes on their S -Igross incomes. They are allowed no •j, exemptions. As a result $500,000 in f (Income taxes and penalties Is expected ttp flow into Uncle Sam'§ coffers in the Chicago district, coninciSent with an jfnvestigation started by Julius F. jftmletanka, collector of Internal rev- nue. Thlrty-flve special agents began check up all alien lists at exemp- |tion district headquarters. It Is be­ lieved nearly 40,000 aliens will be af- •ted by the inquiry, which partlcu- rly affects aliens of military age who joined exemption through affidavits Hiat they do not intend to become cltl Sens. "Some of the fellows who haVe found this a fine country to make money In and at the same time to es­ cape military obligation are due for ft rude awakening," said Mr. Smletanka. ' Springfield. -- Springfield welcomed flier state fair guests when the big Kates were thrown open to the public iFrlday. It was the official opening of the Illinois Centennial State Fair and Industrial exposition. Thousands of (Visitors were expected to throng (through from then until It closes on jltonday, August 26. One of .the most (interesting programs ever prepared has ibeen arranged for the occasion, state ifelr officials announce. Patriotism will ibe the keynote. Some of the most {prominent speakers in the country will Ibe present to'deliver addresses. Among [them will be Gov. Frank O. Lowden 'and former President Theodore Roose­ velt. The opening day marked the jdjne hundredth annlverMW of IUiijols' ^Constitution. ! i, • - i Springfield.--A war on automobile li­ cense violators in Illinois Is on. Sec­ retary of State Emmerson has sent in- ^pectors throughout the state in a Campaign of «aw enforcement. .The inspectors will apprehend all persons jdriving cars without licenses; auto [owners who permit their cars being 'driven by unlicensed chauffeurs will be arrested and fines meted out to those "fc'ho fall to have license plates on the front and rear of their machines. The Use of a dirty license is also a violation Of the law, Secretary Emmerson says. Chicago.--An inspection tour of Chi­ cago irallway terminals to determine jtjhe need for a proposed consolidation hras made'In Chloagc by.William G. jMoAdoo, secretary of the treasury and ^director general of railways. The Jhead of the nation's railways declared ifhst he realized the Importance of itringing the terminals of Chicago, as ithe gateway between the Bast and £est, to'ihe bluest ^de^ee of <£&-ency. , , .. |v Chicago.--John D. Shoop, superin­ tendent of Chicago's public schools, propped dead in Rockvllle, Ind. He •was sitting in the Park hotel, appar- Mfntly in good health, when without •Warning he collapsed. His death is the fourth among well-known men who pAtoAnAi) of dialler ATCII™ (bishop Mundeleln at the University ielub, February 10, 1910, by Jean f Jprones^ the anarchist cook, i Chicago.--A decision setting the precedent for protecting men in mili­ tary service from mortgage foreclose- tire was handed down by Theodore |Windes, in circuit court. According ;:i|p the decision Private D, W. Newton, . Stationed at Camp Fremont, Cal., will Sot be compelled to pay the Interest on a mortgage until three months af­ ter be has been discharged from mlll- "|»ry service. ; Washington, D. C.--Fuel Administra­ tor Garfield warned Illinois and other Coal operators to desist from bidding tgainst each other for mine labor by payment of bonuses to miners. "The payment of bonuses in any form. Doc­ tor Garfield said, "is contrary to the Spirit of the wage agreements made by Operators and mine workers with the president last November. Further­ more," he said, "If any operator here­ after undertakes to pay a bonus in any form in violation of the terms or spirit fOjt the agreements, I shall assume that <tbe mine price of coal allowed that op­ erator is too high." Peoria.--Federal officials are guard- fbg every town on the Mexican border to prevent John B. Sensing, abscond­ ing cashier of the Peoria post office, escaping into Mexico and making his Way to Germany, as is believed to be Ikis Intentions. Postmaster C. U. Stone bag. sworn out a warrant for his ar­ rest on a charge of stealing a pay roll amounting to $6,000, and looting the War Savings stamp fund of an addi­ tional $5,000. Exact amount of his defalcations cannot be told, until pos­ tal inspectors, at present at work on Imim anmnlalad Iju teak -- • w v • •• _ T,i Illinois' tton must be reft&ced 15 per cent, or approximately lOgQOQ^OOO tons, arrived^ Announcem^t .iiii, Saade by the; state fuel administration of a drastic, program of conservation which will;! reach "from the biggest power plant to the kitchen stove." In order that- war munition plants may be main­ tained at top speed and a coal famine be averted dturing the winter the fuel administration announced this pro-' gram: "Power plant committees are; being named in 113 districts of the state to have supervision over the 30,- 000 power plants of the state generat­ ing 1,000 pounds or upwards of steam. A factory committee' Is to be named in every plant, to be recruited from those most skilled in the handling of fuel, with members who will serve as fuel guardians both on day and nighty shifts. An order is to be issued at« once instructing all users of industrial*' coal, to set aside'5 per cent of all coal now going into- thpir plants, this to go into a 'stock pile* as a winter re­ serve. Every plant in the state has been instructed to fill out a question­ naire giving details regarding furnace apparatus and fuel consumption and will be given an efficiency rating. Upon this rating will be apportioned the . amount of coal it will receive if a time of stress comes. This 'rating* is to be made known to each plant by August 20, after which each plant will be given an opportunity to Improve it. Local coal administrators throughout the state are to be instructed to com­ pile at once lists of householders whose finances make It Impossible for them to lay In full winter soft coal supplies at this time. These will be grouped according to previous dealer and local banks will be asked to fi­ nance the buying of this coal, which will go Into a community storage pile, to be held for these particular house= holders and purchased by them as they are financially able." The pro-^ gram was announced by Joseph Har­ rington, administrative engineer. Springfield. -- Governor Lowden's name will be first on the list of 3,- 000,000 Pershing patriots of Illinois which is to be sent across the seas after the Pershing Patriot week drive of August 15 to 22. In order to get his name on the list Governor Lowden will be forced to' purchase War Sav­ ings stamps which he must give away, and give away to some one not di­ rectly connected with his family, be­ cause the law allows one person to own but $1,000 worth, maturity value, of War Savings stamps. When tho. War Savings campaign was first Launched Governor Lowden became one of the early members of the Max­ imum dub by going the cllmlt Mrs. Lowden and all the Lowden children also became Maximum club members, as did Mrs. George M.' Pullman, Mrs. Lowden's mother. None of them can own any more War Savings stamps. But the governor's name must head the list of Pershing patriots, so be will purchase more stamps and give them away. To whom he will give them lie has not' announced. Washington, D. C.--Record-breaking heat, excessive sunshine and practical­ ly no rainfall is the way the govern­ ment Weekly weather crop bulletin summarises conditions in Illinois the last week. It *also applies to the greater part of the corn-ratsing section in the lower Ohio, central Mississippi! and lower Missouri volleys, and from the central plains southward there was steady deterioration during the week with tnucli damage to the corn crop on the uplands. Maxima ex­ ceeds 100 degrees in the southwest on five days during the week, and on three days as far east as southern Illinois reached 110 to 112 degrees in south central Illinois, and from central Iowa southward to northern Okla­ homa. and 113 degrees at Clarinda, la. Springfield.--Arrangements are be­ ing completed for the centennial cele­ bration at Vandalla, the second capi­ tal of Illinois, on September 26. Ten­ tative plans for the celebration were made at a meeting of the centennial commission held In Vandalia last week. Gov. Frank O. Lowden, the other state officers, the Justices of the supreme court, the centennial commission and other distinguished guests will be pres­ ent at the celebration. The observance will begin on September 25 and will close on September 27. Chicago.--The elimination of music from hotels and restaurants, the sub­ stitution of paper napkins for linen,5 the application.of the "serve self" plan to retail stores and the elimination, of traveling salesmen are the objects of a new department of the state council of defense. This department will be known as the "commercial economy administration for £he systematic pro­ motion of thrift, economy and conser­ vation In business.*' Washington, D. C.--Illinois will be entitled to send a team of 16 civilian marksmen, to be selected by the gov­ ernor or adjutant general, to compete In the national rifle matches at Camp Perry, O., September 16 to 21. The II* linois team will be made up of civilian marksmen who will compete with teams from the other states and with teams representing the army, navy and marine corps. Springfield. -- Spurred by remem­ brances of the Prager case in southern Illinois and determined to prevent sim- iizr demonstrations at Edwardsville, where Alois Otrabouvltch an Austri­ an, was attacked by a mob July 24 and made to kiss the American flag, a party of local officials, following con­ ference with Gov. Frank O. Lowden, went to Edwardsville and conferred with officials and citizens of that city. As a result of their visit, It is expect- ed by local federal officials that a special grand jury will be called and Indictments returned against members of the mob. Springfield.--The Socialist party or­ gan iznti on fth?d a complete state tick­ et with Secretary of State Emmerson, as well as for members of congress In all except three districts, state sena­ tors In all except four districts, bouse of representatives, except In ten of the fifty-one legislative districts. William Brqss Lloyd of Wlnnetka, who has started a vigorous speaking campaign through the state, heads the Socialist ticket as the party's candidate for United States senator. All of the nominations have been made through the General Foch Used French Horse­ men to Advanta8%H A Big Drive. ; Y< PROVE GOOD F16HTERS4F00T Rides 80 Miles In Day and Relieves Hard-Pressed British in Flanders • --JWakee New Place V /* Self in Warfare. Washington.--Skillful use of French cavalry has marked General foch's tactics ever since he took over control of the allied armies as supreme com­ mander, according to Information reaching military circles here. The horsemen have played an important role in the whole battle of 1918, as the struggle which began March 21 with the first German drive has come to be known. The employment of swift-moving columns in the present counter-stroke from the Aisne-Marne line has been noted in the dispatches. Again Gen­ eral Foch took advantage of the great mobility of the mounted arm to throw It In wherever his advancing infantry units threatened to lose touch with each other In the heat and confusion of the contest. No gaps have been left where the. enemy might strike back, for plways the horsemen came up to fill the hole until the infantry line could be rectified and connected In a solid front. The same tactics marked the first use of French cavalry in the battle of Plcardy, when the French took over 55 miles of front from the British to permit the latter to mass reserves at seriously threatened points ofihe line farther north. .• ,i a Cavalry Fights Afoot* V A French cavalry corps complete with light artillery, armored cars and cyclists arrived first on the scene in Plcardy and relieved the British. They fought It out afoot until the heavy French Infantry arrived and took over the task. Three days later the horsemen were on the move again, this time hurrying to the front, where the enemy was hitting hard at the Lys line. The cav­ alry rode hard as the advance guard of the French infantry columns march­ ed toward St Omar. In the first 24 hours, despite the long strain of fighting in Plcardy, they covered 80 miles without losing a man or a horse on the way. In 66 hours they had transferred their whole corps over 125 miles and arrived east of Mont Oassel, - "It was a whnderfhT ftfght,1" writes the chief of staff of a division. "The horses were In fine condition ; the men were cheerful and went singing, In spite of the sufferings and privations they had to endure. "In truth, our boys looked a little tired, but they were all/very proud that such an effort had been asked of them and all were bearing It cheer­ fully.** v ' •*. •• • The cavalry corpjs stood in support of the British for ten days In April after the enemy had forced the line held by the Portuguese division. It maintained communication between two British armies and organised the ground from Mont Cassel to Mont Kerhmel, while the French army moved up behind it, As the French infantry came into line the cavalry was drawn off to the left In the Mont Keminel region, and for five days the MMBtfeflBen, fighting afoot with two infantry divisions, withstood the ter­ rific assaults of the Germans who sought to hammer a way through be­ hind Ypres at any cost , They stood steady bombardment for days, and when the Infantry was hem­ med in on top of Mont Kemmel, the cavalry drove forward in counter­ attack and held off the shock divisions of the enemy while the French gun­ ners got their pieces away. Later, at the battle of Locre, the cavalry also shared fully with the in- DEFECTS SPELL DEATH IN FLYING :: FIDO'S BATH AND 3 MEALS ASSURED Spokane, Wash.--One thou­ sand dollars to provide three meals a day, a bath and a bed for her pet dog is a provision of the will of Mrs. Quincy Bur­ gess, recently admitted id pro­ bate. When the dog dies the will provides that It shall be burled beside Its late owner. A "nice casket" is to be used and the dog's grave- it to be properly cared for. 4t i»n i m t i f t i i i n imwi New Xwk.--Considerable concern has been expressed at the large num­ ber of fatal accidents reported fronp our Ameriqan military and naval avia­ tion training camps. Considering the risks the novice necessarily takes and the very special physiological and psy­ chological factors that enter Into the science Of flying, these fatal accidents are few in proportion- to the number of men undergtVing training, and they are not more numerous than those on the training fie ds. of Great Britain, France and Italy^ A perfect knowledge of all the rules of the game of flying will not save a man who lacks confidence In himself and Is Inclined to hesitate. A half- second of Indecision may be fatal. In­ itiative, the sporting instinct and a ceftaln irresponsibility, qualities In­ herent in American youth, have been found of far greater value in the air than the logical, scientific, severely disciplined character of the Germans, and account for the superiority of the allied aviators in general. The most eminent of British scien­ tists have devoted special study to the psychological and physiological as­ pects of flying. One' authority says that good eye­ sight, normal hearing, good "muscle sense" and equilibration are Indispen­ sable qualifications. But most impor- tant of all is the right temperament-- not nn easy thing for a medical board to examine. Of the types--the Imagi­ native and the unimaginative--the imaginative youth is said to make the better pilot If he can keep his Imagi­ nation under control. Surgical Operations No Bar. In the British air service previous history of wounds and disease is thor­ oughly Investigated. Persistent head­ aches, vertigo and easily induced fa­ tigue are serious defects. But some­ times even a serious surgical opera­ tion Is not regurded as important. Thus a doctor recently passed as fit for flying a man who had quite a large niece missing from the frontnl region of the skull. It Is much more Impor­ tant that a man should have both arms Intact than both legs. A clever pilot who was killed on the western front was Lord Lucas, who had an artificial leg. Considerable Importance Is attached to the respiratory system. In addition to good, healthy longs and vital capac­ ity. the would-be pilot must pass a breath-holding test. This gives an In­ dication of his capacity to stand the strain of flying at high altitudes, where the air is rarefied and breath­ ing Is difficult. No man with a weak heart can hope to pass the tests. Self-balancing is another test The candidate has to stand on one leg with his eyes shut and his hands on his hips. There Is also the old test for sobriety--walking a straight line heel to toe with eyes open and then turn­ ing round and walking back without losing balance. The Importance of this test can be understood, seeing that an aviator flying in a dark cloud or in a fog becomes unconscious of his position and sometimes the machine is actually upside down,. It is essen­ tial that he should not lose a second In recovering his balance. The throat, nose and ear are care­ fully examined, for any defects might seriously handicap a man during the great strain that all flying Imposes. With regard to the eyes, It Is consid­ ered that pilots should have perfect color vision. In order to pick out the color or marking of hostile machines, and in recognizing signal lights and in judging the nature of landing grounds. Air Sickness Rare. A candidate who suffers from sea­ sickness or train sickness would ndt be rejected on those grounds alone. Air sickness, caused by the rolling and pitching of the airplane, is a very rare complaint, and sickness usually occurs Immediately after landing. An unstable nervous system suggest­ ed by fidgety movements of the hands, feet or face, or biting the nails is a poor recommendation. i »'* 1 , --- i-- •urn German Text Book*.' ̂ Marinette, Wis.--While scores of people looked on the German text books formerly used in the Menomonie high school were burned in the public square, thus marking the end of the teaching cf th^ Teutonic language S& the public schools of this city. MUSTARD GAS WORST Host Horrfffle tnventfii fltms Use in War. - K Brings Tears and Causep Painful "Skin Diseases Among ••• Soldiers. v Washington.--The most dangerous kind of poison gas need by the Ger­ mans is "mustard gas," or dichlero- diethysulphlde. Mustard gas has a distinctive but not altogether unpleasant smell, more like garlic than mustard. It Is heavy and oily as a liquid. It boils at 217 de­ grees centigrade, and thus has proper­ ties whereby it can be distributed In the form of a spray ten the impact of a shell. Mustard gas Is a powerful producer of tears. After several hours the eyes begin to swell and blister, causing in­ tense pain. The noee discharges freely, CASTOR OIL IS NOW SCARCE Reduced Importation and Needa ef War Have Cut Down Clvll-f Inn Supply." • / * Indianapolis.--Castor oil, the pub­ lic's one unfailing remedy for all ills, is about to go off the market. At least this Is the prediction of Indian­ apolis wholesale druggists, who say that It Is only a ^natter of a few months until the oil will be dropped from druggists'price lists. Again the war Is to blames*' The oil Is made from the castor bean,'which for years has been imported by the United States from the East Indies by the thousands of pounds. Now the war not only has curtailed the impor­ tation of the bean enormously but has created a demand for the oil derived from it that would have taxed the capacity of manufacturers had they been able to secure the normal supply of the raw product The government has found, drug dealers say, that no other oil Is as ict •, *•. £q$ < f ' * • „£ \ « J * i V . and severe coughing and vomiting en­ sue. Dliecti contact with the spray causes blistering of the skin, and the vapor penetrates through the clothing. Gas masks, of course, do not protect against this. The symptoms are similar to pneumonia -- high fever, heavy breathing and often stupor. The damage done by mustard gas Is a slow and insidious development. The breaking down o( the affected tissues Is slow, the height being reached from five to ten days after the burn Is re­ ceived. The painlessness is also a marked characteristic. Healing is slow. " Mustard gas besides being used In direct attack, Is also used for "neutra­ lisation.'^ For instance, where supplies and ammunition are being brought up, a few mustard gas shells will result in dangerous confusion and delay. A part of the Infantry Is "neutralised" by having food and ammunition cut engines used in the country's airplanes as castor oil. Consequently orders have gone forth from Washington di­ verting the present supply of castor oil In drug warehouses from elvlllan to federal uses. ,• j-J Steam Destroys Sight.' Altoona, Pa.--Percy S. Boring, a Pennsylvania railroad machinist, loirt an eye when steam from boiling cof­ fee blew in his face when he lifted the lid. ' *•; •*, tV'! down. If the shell hurts as well as neutralizes, so much the better. The American mask to fight mustard gas is of the box respirator type. The hood Is of rubber. Breathing is through the mouth, pincers shutting off the nostrils. The gas-charged air enters through the bottom of the can­ isters, where by means of neutralizing chemicals, it is purified. From the top of the canister the air is drawn into the lungs. There is a one-way shutter valve in the hood through which the air comes out This mask is designed tn tea hours. For artillerymen the war de­ partment has made an oil salt whl«h encloses the soldier bodily. Gowns Afi itohtry, blocking gaps In tire ltne, and the flnat definite occuplfttnb^of the town for the allies was by a cavalry battalion. A sergeant and a handful of dragoons drove 40 Germans out of the town, and at an­ other point a cavalry officer and 20 men backed up the infantry at a critical moment the officer waving a pistol In one hand and a shovel tn the other as he led the dash which re­ stored the situation. Defend Compeitfne. • few days later the same cavalry, after another long ride, met the en­ emy advance against Vlllers-Cotterets woods in the Aisne sector, where the fighting today Is waging fiercely, and where the horsemen again are en­ gaged. When the Germans drove for­ ward in their effort to get around the forest to Compeigne, the horsemen blocked the road between the wooded region and the River Ourcq. In view of this record for swift and dashing attack afoot the cavalry ap-' pears to have established a new place for Itself In modern warfare. They are the light reserves; the men who are always hurled first Into the point of danger to hold until the slow-mov­ ing Infantry arrives. They have learned trench warfare completely, and General Foch is making use of them in any move that Insures them a glorious chance when the day cornea for the allies to drive back all along tine line. . New York.--It is impossible to avoid bitter discussion on the question of en­ tertaining our soldiers and sailors. As this struggle progresses, writes a fash- Ion correspondent, It may be that the entire social fabric will cease to rend itself apart with personal and national arguments for and against people, In and out of power. Institutions for the good \>t the cause, and the various phases of money expenditure that have arisen in the last year. Anyone who goes about In various sectors of society--and by that is meant the grouping of people for all purposes, not alone gayety--begins to Rob Sewing Machine Bank. Sharon, Pa.--Mrs. James Rascl wait* ed two weeks to report that someone had stolen *1,300 from her sewing ma­ chine drawer bank. Mine fatalities tn British Columbia for the first quarter of the present year totaled five, compared with seven in the corresponding three months in 1917. SHftV \ SEEKS ELECTION TO , PLACE LEFT BY HUSBAND A Plattsburg, Mo.--Mrs. Laura *' Storie, wife of Lieutenant Clark, I', former county cleric of Piatt *; county and now In the National army,* has decided to become a candidate for the Office which she holds by appointment When her husband was called Mrs. Clark was appointed to his place. Now she will try for the jj- honor in the election. ft Js estimated that less than 2,000,- 000 acres of land°in British East Africa are cultivated out of a total acreage of more than 156,000,000. NEW JOB FOUND FOR ACTOR Toe Delicate for Soldiering, So Enfl- Comedian Is Put t#^r'sf r~ Fainting Bucketa. . London.--Miss Ena Moore, n talent­ ed actress, told a new story of the "way they have In the army" at a meeting held In aid of the Theater /ilrls' club at the Mansion house. She said that recently the leading comedian of a revue was called up, being of the new military age. The revue could not go on until his place was filled. The revue girls were stranded for weeks, at the end of which It was found that the comedian was too delicate for an active sol­ dier--so was , put to p*ia*l$g buckets. . - • -> ' Want Italian Shoemakers. Washington.--A recruiting campaign for Italian shoemakers in America is being conducted by the Italian govern­ ment. Those offering their services will be sent back to Italy, where they will be employed to help eliminate the shortage of footwear. Frock by Paquin, showing a tunic with a military sash. It is a part of a navy blue serge frock, and it fastens on the right shoulder. Buttons and buttonholes are of old-blue silk. The sash Is of apple-giveen silk, and the tassels are arranged as bags. feel that the hate which is engendered on the battlefield has its reflection in the minds of those who are not In the struggle, except on the side-lines. A Civil war veteran says that this pitching of women Into the public arena, with its alleged bad effect on their tempers and temperaments, has nothing to do with the situation; that the Civil war engendered the same kind of personal animosities. Yet the Civil war--with all its tragedy, hate, death and sacrifice, which necessarily af­ fected the personal lives of everyone in America more than this war has done--did not throw women together in groups of thousands. Is it odd, therefore. In this rather malevolent turn which emotions have taken during a year of war, that the question of entertaining our soldiers should be thrown into the areata of argument? Now we come to the question of CARE OF ONE'S COMPLEXION Cold Cream and Powder Regarded as 8plendid to Combat Ravagea Sun and Wind. K- A certain well-known woman who drives her car continually In the serv­ ice of the government declared, says a writer, that the secret of her clear, smooth complexion lay In the fre­ quency and In the manner of her cold cream applications. It Is safe to say that before sallying forth to breast the elements, and this applies to diving- swimming, boating and walking as well, one should plaster the face with cold cream and powder. An absolute paste may be put on In this manner and it will not show if it is done with care. Rub in with the finger tips a foundation of cold cream, then with a puff dust powder over this and with a soft cloth rub in the cosmetic lightly. If at the end of a few minutes the grease shows In places, repeat the powder rubbing treatment until a smooth finish has been made. This will withstand the most direct assault of sun or wind and if It is removed fashions. It is not possible to separate' clothes, from this peculiar and em­ phatic situation which has through the conviction that the fight* ere must he entertained, going and' coming. Whatever the government has asked' women to do in the way of clothes they have done gladly, but that does not keep them from dressing well every day and night as they pesa to and from one entertainment to |»> other. These gowns are far from expensive In the mass. Of course, the individual who has money continues to spend its in going to ho* own dressmaker and paying well for excellent cloth, good fitting and perfect finish; but the aver­ age woman, even though she have money, has begun to find out all kinds of places where smart-looking clothes may be bought for small prices. They are also turning out a good deal of work in their own sewing rooms, after the fashion of 25 years ago. By the way, One of the striking phases of this war is that women boast of the cheapness of their clothes, and regale each other with the method of making old clothes Into new, and tike small shop where you can get some­ thing that looks like France for $10, Many of them have also quickly adopted the government's "inside-out" suggestion. It is not unusual to see a woman holding up the tunic or panel of her skirt in the middle of Main street, as she greets a friend, saying. "Here's my Inslde-out' gown; how goes it?** Women confidentially whis­ per to each other at committee meet­ ings about the secret little Paris dress­ maker who is used to the economical tricks of th4 French dressmakers in turning and twisting to save money-- and these addresses are only ex­ changed as a great privilege. All of which is exceedingly good for the nation as a mass. As for tne high- priced dressmakers, they have their own clientele who will probably never leave them, so they do not worry. As they say, there are always enough women in the world who must have individual fittings, which require ex­ pert workers. So everyone is satisfied, economically and commercially. New Clothes That Paris Sends. Now, of one thing be very cortate: that while the French do not entert|ift the French poilu, they are most exctt- ed about 'the Anglo-Saxon Idea. The result Is an Inrush of gowns to, this country during the last few weeks, and these are sent over In order to allure' those who are dancing and din­ ing the fighters. The gowns are ex­ pensive, but they will be speedily copied by the inexpensive shops, and so 'Arriet, who goes out to an enter­ tainment with 'Arry, will have the chance to buy for eight dollars and a half a copy of the French gown that cost $300. That is the happiness found in treading the sartorial path in America. It is good to get these advance things from Paris, They foreshadow what 1* to be shown to American buy- era. If they are honest forerunners of our early autumn costumery, then Paris has not created a revolution in the silhouette, as was persistently ru­ mored during the month of June. The salient points of these new clothes are sienderness, shortness of skirts, an at­ tempt to revive the minaret of Paul Poiret fame, an insistence upon sashes urTun^cd in srnsy ftisbicn, & fvpstltiott of beige, mustard and tan colorings* and the introduction of broadcloth. • Floating panels, which have for six months dotted the entire surface of clothes In America, have been abol­ ished, if we judge by these forerunnersu (Copyright, 1918, by the McClure Newspe- p«c Syndicate.; after returning from the out of doors there is no danger of the skin receiv­ ing an overdose of cream. To remove this makeup use, instead of clear wa­ ter, a solution of borax or alcohol. Either will cut the grease. Fixing Over Slips. When pillow slips begin to wear rip them open at the end seem, lay them over so the heavy threads of the side come down the center of the slip. This throws the worn part at the sides where there is very lit­ tle wear. Then holding the case bi this manner seam up at tne end. Y«» will find pillow cases treated in this way last much longer and the last la very simple--only a matter of ripping one seam and sewing up another P ; Matching Is Difficult. , <.t , Every now and again there Is talk of the practicability of making certain clothes in only a small number of col­ ors. The talk seldom materializes Into any tangible plan. It is extremely ir­ ritating. for instance, to buy a suit of a certain color and then to be unaMs to match It In a blouse. HAVE PRETTY LIVIkG ROOM Simple Arrangement Brings Coxy and " Henley Quarters Within the ' 'o Reach of All. • • \ One of the most beautiful living rooms, details a correspondent, was a. bright, sunshiny one, with a floor cov­ ered with a neutral gray filler carpet, over which were scattered three hand­ some rugs. The walls were plain old blue, the woodwork white. The dull brick fireplace, with the white over­ mantel, and the built-in bookshelves, were quite noticeable features in the room and decidedly help the colonial furniture. For there was a mahogany gateleg table in the center Of the room, e large arm-chair and a waV chair with a rash seat A huge' wing armchair upholstered in rose and blue chintz was drawn up to the fireplace, and seemed to domi­ nate the room. The chintz was repeated In the side drapes at the windows, And;f the beauty of It Is that a room like this Is within the reach af almost anyone! Organdie Hats. Some of the new organdie hats am self-trimmed, with big bow? of or* gandie. One of flesh pink orgssdl# a has a big bow of the same color, the edges of the double strip from which the bow Is tied being bound with a bias band of white organdie. The only other trimming on the hat is some trig pearl beads sewed irregularly crown. ••••.. !iS;v ;A*:- • Silk Bloomers. The vogue fear glove silk bloomeft tt great. The colors worn match tbe dress with which they are to be worn, as khaki when milady dons her motor togs and navy blue when she wears a suit of blue. Pink lisle envelope chemises are in the market, sometimes made with a camisole top of glove sills end lace, or again entirely of self ms> teriaL :;v# Military Capee W< Capes on military lines develop** tm dark blue lined with brtlltaat' red"|u*d trimmed with fipld buttons are hflag worn very advaatageouily by wom«a» • -. SJ;'S t • - f* *' i