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4 *?x . -m >r*^» S> " "•' in 1918 M VlCillMMIiMittMtMt total yield of win- tar TfhTnlt In P>M" for the 1918 crop show* an increase of more than 50 per cent over the 1917 crop, according to a «*op summary Issued by Director Ad- kins'of the state department of agri­ culture. The report covers the period eltice July 29. From reports of its corrtgpeoihfice to the Illinois depart­ ment of agriculture, under date of Au­ gust 1* 1918. the following information lit obtained: "There were 1,834,909 acres seeded to winter wheat In the' fall of 1817. Of that number, 1,771,736 acres; or 97' per cent, were harvested in 1918. This is an increase of 20 points over last year. The yield an acre for northern Illinois is 28 bushels; 25 bushels for central Illinois and the southern division reports 15 bushels an acre.. This makes a state yield of »L bushels an acre, which is an in­ crease of three bushels an acre over the 1917 crop. The total yield of win­ ter wheat amounts to 37,809,262 bush­ els, which Is an increase of more than 60 per cent over the 1917 crop. There Were 92,738 acres seeded to spring • ; W h e a t t h i s y e a r , 8 1 , 6 3 8 a c r e s o f w h i c h are reported from northern Illinois and 11,100 from central Illinois. No spring wheat is grown in the southern -^division of the state. This area is an Increase of 52,000 acres, or 129 per cent over the 1917 crop. The state jrleld per acre Is 27 bushel^ 28 bushels "•per acre being reported from northern Illinois and 23 bushels from central Illinois. The total yield for the state I* 2,529,696 bushels, which is an in- . ctease of 1^658,279 bushels over the ? 1917 c-rop. There were 9,323,989 acres planted to corn for the 1918 crop. Horthern Illinois reports 3,626,888 acres, central Illinois 4,302,435 acres, ; ajau the southern division of the state 1>394,666 acres. The August condi­ tion of corn is reported as 87 per cent normal, which Is five points lower .than on June 20, 1918. There is a de­ crease of 401,144 acreis as compared ">;wlth the 1917 'crop. The area secured ^ to oats for the 1918 crop is reported ' pa 5,502,659 acres, which is an increase pt 234,046 acres over the acreage for ifcfie 1917 cropw The average yield for <he state is 41 bushels an acre, which ,40 four bushels per acre less than j!917. Northern Illinois reports an av­ erage yield of 47 bushels an acre, cen­ tral Illinois 40 bushels and the south- : era division of the state 29 bushels an jticre. The total yield of this crop amounts to 226,934,804 bushels, being «*jp,753,062 bushels less than last year, the area of the rye crop for 1918 Is 109,391 acres. With an average yield ,; j w£ 18 bushels to the acre the total field amounts to 1,960,878 bushels. There are 127,543 acres of barley re­ ported this year and the average yield an acre is 38 bushels. The total .field amounts to 4,788,657 bushels, -Which is more than three times the h" J*eld of last year.* . | - Chicago.--Top war production is * " more essential than the retailing of workers in Illinois or any other state. The situation was explained clearly to Mark L. Crawford, state director of £he United States employment service, | In a telegram from N. A. Smyth, as­ sistant director general of this depart­ ment for the bureau of labor at Wash­ ington, D. C. "Much unskilled labor now being secured is shifting from one lob to another. .The industrial pro- f; gram of the country can be made to keep pace with the needs of our armies only by filling the gap from '* tnen who are now engaged In nonwar work. This can and must be done, and |v.,.v|k>ne at once. Restlessness which per­ vades many groups of unskilled labor­ ers can be cured, to a large extent. If „ the mass of unskilled workers to leav- .. ened by the patriotic spirit of men of f 'X ability and devotion who undertake " common labor in the trenches of ln- i 4ustry, in the same spirit that men . % flave left profitable jobs and homes of 4Somfort for work at the front.** j Chicago.--Federal agents believe . they have located the far Western out- ^ post of the German army at Crete. Ac- «Sording to Assistant District Attorney Borelli, the American army, represent- v *" «d by a Camp Grant soldier, was ^gassed" with whisky and beer, as- t1, v faulted, thrown into Jail and forced to retreat while his automobile was iBonflscated and sold. All of the vll- lage officials have German names. ' jFohn Zylstra, infantryman, charges ' jiesidents of the town sneered at his IBniforui. He immediately went Into action. So did the town. Ah investi- fition Is on. The grand jury may act . ter. _ Petersburg,--Seventy bushels of Wheat to the acre is the remarkable fecord reported from a piece of ground ear this place. This is perhaps the rd yield In the state. Jacob Isen- erg is owner of the farm which con- s the five-acre tract which pro­ duced the yield. The farm lies six jjhlles east of Petersburg. Three hun ^sred and fifty bushels of wheat were ?fp»reshed from the field, gfj Springfield.--Increased freight rates Allowed railroads by the interstate -jjommerce commission, exclusive of all ither charges, will cost the state of Illinois approximately $75,000 during tjie fiscal year ending June 30, 1919, according to a statement issued by the division of purchase and supplies of the department of finance. It is ' roughly estimated that the freight lnr peases on other commodities during fh<? same period will cost the state $250,000. This figures Includes the freight on all food, clothing, etc., going , Jp the penal and charitable institu­ tions and the normal schools. ^Chicago.--The Illinois public utili­ ties commission received notice that the Illinois traction system has filed j| bill for Injunction In the federal t>urt of the Eastern district at Dan-lie to restrain the operation of the o-'cent law. Attorney General Brun- ge, the members of the commission (md the state's attorneys of the coun- v lies In which the company operates are imade the defendants. The company •fcts forth that the 2-cent law restrains liny Increase of Its passenger fare and the present fare Is Insufficient to for the "*er the prevailing prices?.- ? I*.** & «< m Mehl and master and pOot. respectively, of the steamer OtlsHUa, which sank in the Illinois river naar Peoria in Inly, with the km of nearly 100 lives, have been revoked, the steamboat In- spectlon service announced. Mehl la charged .with inattention to duty And incapacity and Williams with uosklll- fulness and negligence The charges were made by Reese Downs and George Bower, local inspectors at St. Louis, who telegraphed the result of the hearings conducted by the service. Revocation of licenses is the only pun­ ishment that might be Inflicted by the steamboat service. Metal's alleged in­ attention to duty was his failure to pre­ vent Williams, the pilot, from ap­ proaching a dangerous place in a fog, and his alleegd Incapacity was the fail­ ure to recognise the cituation as dan­ gerous nad hold the vessel along the shore when it toadied the bank. Wil­ liams was charged with permitting the steamer to come- In contact with a rough and dangerous shore under too great headway and of negligence in not holding the vessel to the bank, Instead of moving Into tile deep water after It had touched. Chicago.--Soft coal is beginning to accumulate in Chicago coal yards for the first time in two years. Low-grade Illinois and Indiana coal is in small demand, ^nd dealers are having a hard time disposing of it. In spite of the slow market dealers have to accept shipments from the mines, they say, because Jobbers Insist that with every car of anthracite allowed them they absorb one car of low-grade bitumin­ ous. Domestic consumers are demand­ ing Franklin county coal, since it is of much superior burning qualities with­ out difference in the price. The Illi­ nois coal situation is believed to be superior to that in any section of the country. While a greatly Increased demand is counted on, it is pointed out that in general war work In this ter­ ritory has not been undertaken by new plants, but has been substituted for nonwar work in existing plants and the consumption of coal will not be great­ ly increased thereby. The production is going to break all records, and some dealers expect that by January 1 the situation will be so encouraging that all limitations on the shipment of Illi­ nois coal to adjacent zones will be re­ moved. • . Springfield.--Quotaa announced by Adjutant General Dickson to fill the September 3-6 call, received for 7,000 registrants qualified for general mlll- Wtary service, are in part as follows: Men to entrain for Camp Grant, Rock- ford : Champaign county board, 1, 30; board 2, 58; Henry, 50; Jo Daviess, 25; Kane board 1, 85; board 2, 59; Kankakee, 20; Kenedall, 50; Lee, 28; Mercer, 30; Ogle, 50; Rock Island, bdard 1, 35; board 2, 55; Stephenson, 10; Will, board 1, 30; board 2, 35. Men to entrain for Camp Custer, Bat­ tle Creek, Mich.: Jefferson county, 48; Washington, 51; Wayne. 15. Among the quotas for the 2,000 limited service, men who will entrain for Camp Grant"- are the following: Aurora, 15; Cham­ paign county, boards 1 and 2, 20 each; Jo Daviess, 10; Kane county, boards 1 and 2, 15 each; Kankakee county, 25; Lee county, 15; Mercer, 5; Rock -Island, boards 1 and 2, 20 each; Stephenson, 20; Whiteside couhty, 50; Jollet, 10; Will county, 1 and 2, 5 each. Springfield.--The following numbers of cases of contagious diseases were prevalent In the state the last week, ac­ cording to the weekly report of Dr. CI St. Clair Drake, state department of public health, to the federal health de­ partment : Diphtheria, 70 of which Chi­ cago reported 42; scarlet fever 25, of which Chicago reported 11; smallpox, 88; typhoid fever, 70, of which Moline reported 14, Wheaton 14, Jacksonville 6; meningitis, 7, of which Chicago re­ ported 6; pollomyletls, Chicago, 8; one each, Glencoe, New Trier township. Cook county; Hlnsdalet Naperville, Zion City, Limestone township, Kanka­ kee county; East St. Louis, 2 each, Roberts, Stockton; 3 each, St. Charles, Kankakee township, Kankakee county. Springfield.--Pigeon and chicken fan­ ciers of Springfield and central Illinois won centennial specials on their shows at the Illinois state fair. Charles A. Bartling was awarded the medal for the best display of pigeons and oJhn M. Ornellas and M. J. Hoffman are medal winners for the be^t display of pet stock. W. B, Keift of Springfield is the winner of the centennial specials for the best exhibit of heavy hens, the best pen, best male and best feamle In the laying class. The specials for the best general exhibit of English fowls was claimed by R. M. Seward of Lew- iston, and the prise for the best pen of fowls Went to Gecfrge Dickey of Bock Island. Chicago.--William D. Haywood and 99 other members of the I. W. W. were found guilty In Judge Landls' court of disloyal atts. The Jury was out just 55 minutes. It is reported the verdict' was reached on the first ballot. By the jurys' verdict they stand guilty of conspiracy to hamper the conduct of the war. Twenty years Is the maxi­ mum they may get and two years a minimum. Fines can range from $50(1 to $5,000 each.' Washington, D. C.--The war .depart­ ment announced plans for establishing a big reconstruction hospital at Fort Sheridan at the close of the student training camp course now In progress there, This will be one of two big hospitals that will be established in Chicago to receive soldiers from the middle West Invalided home from France. Bloom tngton.--Prof. H. T. White, foi three years head of the schools at the Soldiers' Orphans' home in Normal, has been appointed managing officer of the state school for the deaf and dumb at Jacksonville. Springfield.--Face to face With *a dire shortage of necessary institutional help, the department of public welfare has granted salary Increases approxi­ mately $350,000 a year in an attempt to maintain this all-Important service. Approximately $150,000 of this sum was raised by accumulation of unpaid salaries. Many institutional positions^ were vacated by the draft and through employees taking up war work. Ina­ bility to fill these vacancies caused the salaries to pile up and the department decided to Use this money for salary London.--The heroic battles of the British army during the last half of 101?, Including the ,battles of Cam- northeast of Solssons on a six-mile dians took 2^K)0 prisoners,. The French, on October, 23, attacked bral, Hie third battle of Ypces, the bat­ tle of Menin road, of Broodselnde and of Passchendaele, would loom up Im­ portantly in any survey of the past year's fighting on the western front but for one reason: They do not com­ pare in any sense with the fighting since March 21, 1918. The spring of 1917 saw the begin­ ning of the allied offensive against Germany, but the. third miscarried al­ most from the start, and, after It was seen that there was nothing more to be expected from Russia, the "great offensive" of the allies found Itself diverted Into a number of smaller bat­ tles, where occasionally some 200,000 men were employed on either side. Some 32,000 prisoners were taken by the British in eight of these thrusts against the German line between August 1, 1917, and the dose of the year, and Important positions were won, but the successes were .only tac­ tical. ' The third battle of Ypres began July SI, 1917, and continued until Au­ gust 10, again breaking out August 16, the British crossed the Yser canal, taking nine villages and 6,122 prisoners. When the battle was re­ newed, August 16, Langemarck was taken besides 2,114 more prisoners. Meanwhile, the Canadians on the Lens sector attacked and captured Hill No. 70, took 900 prisoners and maintained their positions against five counter­ attacks. This was on August 18. 8mash Foe at Verdun. 1 The French on August 20, attacking on an 11-mile frofit at Verdun, recap­ tured about two-thirds of ^he ground which the crown prince's army had won In months of slaughter. The chief action In September, 1917, was In the battle of Menin road, which began September 20, the object being to loosen the German grip on the coast. Following an eight hours' bombardment the British advanced on an eight-mile front from Holle- beke to Langemarck, capturing a half-do&n important positions and taking 3,243 prisoners. During October, 1917, when disaster overtook the Italians, both the French and the British scored noteworthy successes. On October 4 a great strug­ gle began on a front of eight miles on the Pas^chendaele ridge, called the battle of Broodselnde, perhaps the most important during the year on the British front. The Germans had planned an attack for 6 a. m., but the British launched their offen­ sive an hour earlier, shattered three enemy divisions, broke up four others and took 4,446 prisoners, while Cana- frant on the Aisne, from Vauxillon to La Boyere, piercing the enemy's line four miles and taking 11,000 prison­ ers. On October 9 the British took Poelcappelle and 2,028 prisoners and made some slight gains with heavy attacks In the Ypres sector October 22, 26 and 30. On November 6 the Oanadians won their great victory, capturing Pass- chendaele Ridge, for which the British had been battling for months. The Canadians held the ridge until the re­ cent hammer blows. November also saw the British success, which was partially diminished hy a surprise counter-stroke, at Oarabrai. The Third British army, under Sir Julian Bjtog, on November 20 launched Its drive without artillery preparation on an elght-mlle front, smashing the Hlnden- burg line, almost reaching the out­ skirts of the important railway center mbrai and taking 3,000 the first day. Huns Regain Ground. The battle continued ten days, prist oners being Increased to 11,551, while 138 guns were taken. The deepest, advance -was seven miles. But oij November 80 the Germans delivered a tremendous attack against Byng*« army, aiming to cut It off from the rest of the British forces. The Germans succeeded in recovering about half of the ground Byng's army had won. During the past year the British have made considerable progress in Mesopotamia and Palestine, capturing Jerusalem December 9, 1917, while the allied armies from the Adriatic to the Egean have prevented the Germanic allies from gaining control of the Med­ iterranean. So far the British have won more than a third of Palestine from the Turks. In Mesopotamia the British have advanced about 100 miles up the Tigris and Euphrates since capturing Bagdad, and have made some prog­ ress toward the north of Hit, capturing more than 15.000 prisoners. During January, February and the first half of March only small actions occurred on the western front, the ! British preparing for the German drive which was launched with unprecedent" , ed fury March 21. Paris.--He was a United States Ma­ rine. He hailed from Chicago, and I judged his age to he twenty-two or twenty-three. I did not learn his name, but during the short hour we spent together he poured out to me his personal Impressions of the fight­ ing, in which he had taken a share, at Chateau Thierry. He naively apologised when he learned I was an American, saying: "Of course, when I've been In and out of the trenches a few times I expect It will all grow stale, and I shan't want to talk about It." He was just a normal boy, and he related his experiences and Im­ pressions without pose or boastful- ness. "When we took over that part of the line we were told It was a quiet sector," he said, "but It didn't remain long quiet. We learned afterwards that at first the Germans thought we were British, our uniforms being some­ what alike, but when they discovered that we were Yanks they began to get curious about us. - They were sure satisfied pretty quick." Had Empty Feeling. "What were your own personal fad­ ings the first time you went over the top?" I asked. "Well," slowly, "I suppose I ̂ was frightened. I had a sickening, empty feeling somewhere Inside me. Just before we were to start our captain said: 'Now, boys, there's no need to ^ 1 ONE OF AMERICA'S HEAVY GUNS & c" Model of a big American gun that Is being turned out in large numbers for use in France. It already Is camouflaged. Excel Enemy in Air -- British Air Force Headquarters In France.--There have been many signs recently of extreme uneasiness by the German high command regarding the increasing ascendancy of the allied air­ men on the western front. This has been especially evident since the Amer­ ican airmen have begun to appear In force and have proved themselves of the same mettle aa the French, and British flyers. - Perhaps the moat striking evidence of German official anxiety regarding the allied superiority in the air Is to be found in the official German wireless news. In an effort to counteract the depressing effect of the real facts of the situation, the German wireless ed­ itors make the wildest statementa, bor­ dering almost on humor. Thus a recent copy of the German wireless report says: "Superior meth­ ods of flying and greater skill have se­ cured for the German air force suc- W0MAN REGAINS HER SPEECH Excitement of Seeing Son Leave for Army Reaults in Recovery of Voice. Northampton, Mass.--"Oh, James," exclaimed Mrs. Martin S. Hardman as she bade her son good-by at the sta­ tion when he went to join the draft army at Camp Devens. It was the first time she had spoken in a year and a half, the excitement of seeing her son leave resulting In the .recovery of her voice. Physicians ^ho had been un­ able to explain her loss of voice had predicted that she might be able to regain It in some emotional crisis. SMOKES IN POWDER PLANT Negro Is Held to" Grand Jury on Charge of Violating 8abot- , age' Act. cesses on a scale such f» were never known before." "If Germany Is really pleased with her air record for the last few months," remarked a British squadron leader to the correspondent, "there is no reason for us to complain. We ask nothing better than that Germany should so on hsvicj the ssssc success In future months." He took as an example the report for May, which lay open on his desk. "This report," he explained, "deals with the British air fighting alone, and him no reference to the fine air work of the French, Italians and Americans. During the month the British brought down 398 German machines In aerial combat, and twenty by fire from the ground, while 100 more were driven down out of control and probably de­ stroyed. During the same period 128 British machines failed to return to their airdromes." Mason's offense consisted of light­ ing a match and smoking a cigarette In the ether room of the powder plant. The complaint against him alleges he took the risk of Interfering with war work by furthering the chances of an explosion. No mention was made of what might have happened to Mason. Irs TOUGH TO BE KAISER Lad 8ays Next Time He Plays War ̂ " Seme Other Boy Will Be Hun Chief. . Harrisburg, Pa.--Rescued from an ash barrel by a policeman after he had been cut and bruised by bricks and stones, Russel Jones, agel eleven, de­ clared that the next time he plays "war" some other boy will have to be the "kaiser." Jones and several of his companions of the same age decided on the war game and yorngsters were named to represent the qllied nations. feel bad about 1L These men over the other side are feellfig just as bad. In fact a mighty sight worse,' I remem­ ber his words distinctly, because they were the last he said, except to give the command to start. We had to advance through a field of green wheat, soppy with dew, so that we got wet through and could hardly keep our feet on the slippery ground. Our captain and lieutenant were killed right at the start, and also the first sergeant. "We had only the gunner sergeant left, and all around the men were fall­ ing, and the air was filled with the noise from bursting shells, cries of dying men, the groans of the wounded, the singing of bullets, and the clatter of the machine guns. "I've never been what you'd call a praying chap, but I prayed hard then, and many times since." After a moment I said: "Yes, and then?" "Well, we saw pretty soon that if we didn't hurry up and get to the wood there wouldn't be any of us left to take It--so we Just hiked like--as If --well, as If it was an express train that we Just had to catch or bust And when we got there It didn't take us long to dear the Boche out. He would go on firing until we were right on top of him with the bayonet and then he'd yell out 'Kamerad.' "Even In the midst of the fight I couldn't help laughing out at the man alongside of me. He had seen his chum fall and came on Just wild, and when he was going for one German the Boche yelled: 'Kamerad, I've a wife and ten children In Berlin,' and the marine said: 'It you went back to Berlin there'd be ten more children-- to h with you,' and rammed him with his bayonet " "What happened after you cleared out the Hun?" I asked. "By that time we were reduced to about half our company, and were or­ dered to dig ourselves In. You should have seen me dig! "Men were falling all around and two bullets went through my rack as I crouched as near the ground as possible digging like h . So I took my pack off and put It on the parapet to the side of me, and the Germans kept on popping at It. While I was digging every time. I looked up to throw the dirt out I could see a flower moving to and fro in the wind Just in front of me, and tben once I glanced up just In time to sea that flower nipped off as If by an Invisible hand and lie on the gound. Somehow that made me realize almost more than any­ thing how near death was." Newark, N, J.--John 4. Mnson. a negro employed by the Du Pont Pow­ der works at Purlin. N. J., wan locked , It was suggested that there would have up to await vtvion by the federal j to be an enemy, so Jones was elected grand Jury on >he charge of violating j the enemy. No sooner was the drive in^^se^gpMtg & M3# f | tb» sabotage act . 1 -'"r • •' j against the kaiser started • than- Jonas month. .• ,*r ̂ 'Safe .. ... *• 7 FUN iN POOLROOM ROUND-UP Patrolman Assisting in Raid Unable to Produce Registration Card When Demanded. Knoxville, Tenn.--Amusing Inci­ dents occurred here during the "round­ up" of more than 300 youths In twelve poolrooms. A deputy sheriff asked one of the patrolmen, who is in the arari age and who was assisting in the "round-up," to produce his final card. wfAi. u fcv»T feeble sxciiscs tfcf patrolman had to admit that he did not have his final card with him. The situation was relieved, however, when the patrolman applied at his local board and secured a card. In another instance a young man told the officers that he wanted to Join the navy. He was taken to the office of the naval recruiting station. Ills legs began to do the Hula Hula and with his teeth chattering an ac­ companiment he moaned: "Boss, 1 specs I'd rather not Jine the navy, somethln' might happen to the boat I'se on,?. . ; * . -J- the barrel. Bricks and stones were following in quick succession when the policeman appeared, declared peace and rescued the kaiser. was picked up bodily and thrown Into eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee e e e e e e PREFERS SINGLE BUSS TO BEING HUN'S TRAIT Ellensburg, Wash.--Mrs. Ma­ bel Schlamann seeks a divorce here because, she says, she would rather be single than the wife of a German. She complains that her husband, when they were married In 1915, told her he was a naturalised American, but since that he insists on calling her "frau." • eeeeeee,«eeeceeeeeeeeee*ee Rafts In Lifeboats. Rafts hinged to the sides of a life­ boat and which spread out when It is afloat to give additional buoyancy, form a recently Invented device fox safety tt ^ . Ill- New York.--The,trade, which means the vast multitude of peftple engaged in the making and selling of women's ap­ parel, has at last sounded a warning to those who buy too far ahead of the seasons, advises a well-known fashion correspondent. The public has deplored this condi­ tion. It has been well known for sev­ eral seasons that the average woman did not care to buy a straw hat in February and a velvet hat in July, or to have all lier autumn clothes offered to her the first of September with the assurance that they were the fashions that would rule throughout the winter. She has been often betrayed, and that betrayal has not soothed her irritation against those who sold her the clothes. It is the fact also that the trade in turn has found itself caught in a net that tangled and involved It, and compelled each individual to struggle for success in a manner contrary to the dictates of reason and sobriety. "Through this web of circumstances everyone has come to a feeling that something must be done In the crea­ tion of new fashions long before the season for which they are to be worn, and that the public must follow the lines laid" down by the trade competi­ tors. Right here lies the extraordinary gamble to Women in buying clothes early in the season. Right here lies one of the greatest sources of money wastage. Thousands of women, who have no way of knowing what the fashions will be as the season ad­ vances, buy what is said to be new as the season demands a change. What they buy in September has probably been bought by the shop In June. To keep up with the rising tide of forehandedness, the manufacturers make the clothes earlier and earlier, and the ready-to-wear shops and de­ partment stores, as a rule, buy these clothes as early as the manufacturers make them, and get them out at the very moment there Is a slight demand for them. What happens? ,^1 In October and In April the rwtf fashions come out for each season. Hundreds of women--nay, thousands-- are faced with the fact that they have bought gowns, or wraps, or hats that are not In keeping with the new clothes. They have bought clothes ar­ ranged six months before the authen­ tic exhibitions of new and seasonable apparel. r J. What happens next? : . ^ The woman who can possibly scrape up enough money to buy a new outfit does so, and she also spends extra money on a seamstress or little dress­ maker to have her other clothes re­ modeled. Therefore, she spends twice her allowance on clothes. Panic Has Produced Careless Buying. Many of the traders In apparel real­ ise that panic and a form of commer­ cial hysteria have resulted in a large amount of early buying, which is not fair either to the individual or to com­ merce. Every shopper has shared the same experience this last year of be­ ing told that it is wise .to buy at once the articles needed, because they might not be obtainable at a later day. This has resulted In a certain meas­ ure of hoarding, which theigovernmeut does not allow in food. It has already resulted In severe waste of Individual money. Women, feeling the press of this panic, have gotten clothes in ad­ vance of the season, and they now find that tliere are just as many to be had as six months ago, and that the shape and texture have changed. It would be a far wiser method of spending one's money to buy a little, at the necessary time, representing the best there is at that moment. There will always be materia} of NEW SKIRT AND HAT SETS Figured Chiffon and Ribbon Are Ef­ fectively Used In Some of the Latest Creations. We run to sets of clothes nowa­ days. We have sets consisting of muff, hat and collar; of collar, hat and knitting bag; of parasol^ knit­ ting bag and hiat; of hat, ruff and parasol. We have sets consisting of almost any two or three of the garments or accessories that go to make up our dally quota of dress. And now some of the little spe­ cialty shops that go In for the new­ est things are showing sets consist­ ing of skirt and hat. One such set is made of figured chiffon and wide ribbon. The ribbon Is bright green, and the chiffon is fright green and dull gray, with flecks of yellow and touches of black. The skirt consists of wide strips of chiffon--six inches wide perhaps--between equal widths of ribbon, running of course round­ about. The hat is made of the silk over a buckram frame, with flat points Linen Sport Hats. A sport sriilor is tall of crown with a straight brim slightly wider at the front than at back or sides. Crown and brim are of blue handkerchief linen, embroidered In darker blue cot­ ton, in a design that suggests the blended blues of Japanese pottery. The brim Is faced w&h blue straw and around the base of the crown is tied a blue cord with chenille ball tassels. The hat Is shown^also In pale yellow linen embroidered with orange and faced with black straw, and hi white linen embroidered in green with a green straw facing; but the blue mod­ el, because of its suggestion of blutf chlnaware, Is most novel and ca"-- The Service Go*p|» . some kind. Even if the world ia r»f daged to whole garments of sewn leaves, there is no reason why any one woman should wish herself out of the picture. Let her go along with fto momentum of the hour and buy audi wear garments of fig leaves. The public Is beginning to see the- ̂ wisdom of buying a small amount at the moment it is needed. It should be* preached in every possible form of. propaganda that this is the wise wayj ̂ to live during war time. Rest assured! that if the public buys up all the stock! of one thing from a store, that store) will be replenished the moment ita np4 ply is exhausted; Of course, there are women who aM ways demand quality. They prefer t« have a badly cut gown, made in a pastj - fashion, if they are sure that every! thread is silk or wool, as the case may* be. But the .majority of women arel not inclined toward accepting that sps-^ tem of dress. Therefore, let us start out in a t»ew» measure of reform, as soon as thl# month is over, and face September with no Mea of rushing into shops and! buying everything that is offered be­ cause it Is labeled "New." Maybe It la,, and maybe it Isn't. But a feeling of? panic among buyers that now is the/ '* only chance to get enough clothes to# carry one through the winter, resultsf- ln the very thing that the government: desires most to see avoided--reckless; spending of money. So buy shrewdly, and not for hoarding. If there is to be econonly in clothes, let it begin this week. It is at this time, between the seasons, that a wom­ an can take thought of her wardrobe and twist and turn it according to pre­ vailing fashion, in a way that will serve her until styles are more settled. Then, when she has to buy much, die wfik buy wisely ftnd well. Help in Remodeling Clothes. | Here are some prophecies that may help you to be economical and wise. | One of them sounds like the first aid. - to an injured wardrobe. It comes di- ; rect from Paris. It la -that checks, f stripes and mosaic blocks are widely , worn in whole suits and parts of suits. Can you imagine any piece of news more gratefully received than that which gives a woman a chance to make a new coat to an old skirt, or the other way around? There are colored stripes on 1 white background, made of heavy woolen ma­ terial and built Into a skirt to be worn with any slip-on cuirass or short Jack­ et of colored cloth or velvet. * Skirts are narrow. As the govern­ ment will allow shoes to be 8 lnchea from the ground, the skirts need not be lengthened. For the present they remain moderately short. What the near future will bring out no one can say. (Copyright, 1918, by th©~McCIure Nttfsrie • <•, per Syndicate.) J Vestee Is Smart. Wstees may be made from any kind of material, and can be either a mere strip of corded silk or a gorgeous cre­ ation fashioned fiptu cloth-of-gold or Chinese brocades. In some cases, these vests are In reality sleeveless tunics, which slip on over the head and are to be worn with or without a jacket. An* especially handsome tu­ nic of this sort is one made from silk crepe in a Paisley design, joined un­ der the arms by narrow strips trim­ med with buttons. Such a garment Is essentially for country Use. It Is smart, easily fashioned at home, aad» lM> nym respects, practical. • ,J • , Late Fur Cellar. Ope of the latest fur collars Is o< nutria with tassels at its square ners. of folded chiffon on brim and crow^ for trimming. .i Two-Tone Negligeea. X There is » veritable rage for tWB» tone negligees. Orchid and pink, blue and maize, pink and blue, violet 'and white, gray and rose, and so on. Hie usual way is to have the 'satin slip of white or flesh tone, topped by a filmy oversllp of two colors In georg­ ette or chiffon. The slip may be loose­ ly belted, but ordinarily the over-drap­ ery,. falls in opalescent folds ' shoulder to ankles. x Clean Corsets. Corset? may be cleaned at hone tjf ! laying on a marble-topped wash stand ~ and brushing with a stiff bnjsli and good white soap and Water. Finally, dip the brusfi into clear warm water aud scrub again; then dry with rough towels.. . .v'/Jf Girdle Variety; ,4 Glroles are allowed to take iiltlsoi't* of liberties by the designers of smart / costumes, and one never can tell how r̂ !l or where they may be found. .J v % k 1 economy and durability, and stiff he ~ becoming to the wearer. The ap« parel that these women hope may become mpre or less standard In known as the "service gown" and It may be of silk, cotton, or mohair, but never of wool, as the conserva­ tion of that material Is one of thtt- ohief puri>oses of the movement- The question of color Is left to In­ dividual taste.- The gown Is deslgnedf for all ages. Is easy to adjust, is void of trimmings, is constructed along sen­ sible lices, and adapted to stout or slender women. Moreover, it may he wore for various occupational pur­ poses. *;,Tv . . A ' --I Demand far-Fancy A prominent cloth manufacturer of , . Bradford, England, addressing a meet- For years w^flieii liSvl in* of the Textile society of that city. predicted a great demand for fancy fabric after the war by women all -r,--rj ovfer the world. -j h At last! been experimenting and searching in the dark for the ideal dress for all occasions, and now It ts alleged that certain Boston women have found It. A newspaper report says that a group of Boston women have for some time been studying the problem gf creetin* a rbodel problem rabodr' J-,' h. -A i: 4 "-ft - Galatea Cloth Ua*4 S-jh-'jtL"* - There is a great deal of galatea doth used In making little girls' service MM