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MHRiMMMP Si* v* /. «fW THRW-"-~~ " - ~ ; THE McHlJftr \rf*ABtoiE2i^ •T" N !f>inii^irt ON BRAKES ALBERT N. ::'?W •'• ' • ". ' -« 3 : , ,' •'.j^M. Ex-Gunner and Chief Petty Officer, U.rS. Ni?y Member of the Foreitfn Legion of Franc* Captain Gun Turret, French Battleship rffird Winner of the Croix da Guerre .vi.:.. OeWH<M, WIS, »y B«llly »ed Brttlee Oik,Ttoweerli SpedWI Aiweeeww* Wtth tiw Oeerge MetUww Adsme Berrlee iiiiiiiiiiiMtiiiiiiiiiiiiiitiiiiiiiiiiuiiiiiciiiiiiiiaiiniisiiiiiiiuiiiiHMHiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii»imiiiiiiiiiiiniiiiiiiliitikitiiuuiiit8iiitiiiiiiiuiiiiiiiii|ii>tiiiiiiiiiiitfitliiiltsiii%|iii ;. FOREWORD. s«sf ftp •; "Gunner Depew" is not a work of fictiofi, but ft is more thrilling than any fic­ tion you ever read. It is the true story of the experi­ ences of an American boy who had a fighting career that is unique in the annais of the great war. It is a story crowded with fighting and adventure -- big with human courage and endur­ ance. It is the first war nar­ rative that tells the true story of conditions in the German prison camps, it is a story that every Ameri­ can should and wiN. read to the end. r: V • V J .•k* IS; rfj\/' •* * CHAPTER I. In the American Navy. My father was a seaman, so, nat­ urally, all my life I heard a great deal about ships and the sea. Even when I was a little boy, in Walston, Pa., I thought about tliem a whole lot and. wanted to be a sailor--especially a •f sailor in the U. S. navy. You might say I was brought up on water.. a- When I was twelve years old T went ^ /*° sea 118 robin boy on the whaler Therifus. out of Boston. She was an ^ •Jf15 T old square-rigged sailing ship, built |;;V l"" more for work than for speed. We ' were out four months on my first cruise, and got knocked around a lot. t •' especially in a storm on the Newfound- ' 3 land Banks, where we lost our Instru­ ments, and had a hard time oavigat- :/-|lag the ship. Whaling crews work on i : | shares and during the two years I was ,:j on the Therifus my shares amounted to fourteen hundred dollars. Then I shipped as first-class heUis- man on the British tramp Southern- down, a twin-screw steamer out of Liverpool. Many people are surprised that a fourteen-year-old boy should be helmsman on an ocean-going craft, r ^ ' but all over the world you will see ,,<! young lads doing their trick at the s wheel. I was on the Southerndown yJ,4two years and in that time visited most of the'important ports of Eu- l » "* rope. There is noth'ing like a tramp •? 3 steamer if you want to see the world. ? Jitie Southerndown is the vessel that, * ia the fall of 1917, sighted a German J U-boat rigged up like a sailing ship. I Although I liked visiting the foreign j ports, I got tired of the Southerndown -' after a while and at the end of a voj\ \4 age which landed me in New York I | decided to get into the United States navy. After laying around for a week or two I enlisted and was assigned to People have said they thought I was |v'. -pretty small to be a fireman; they ^ < have the idea that firemen must be big •W, 'men. Well, I am 5 feet 7% Inches In height, and when I was sixteen I was gV > just as tall as I am now and weighed ^ 168 pounds. I was a whole lot husk- i«r then, too, for that was before my %,i V- introduction to kultur in German pris- •' on camps, and life there Is not exactly , [, fattening--not exactly. I do not know why It Is, but if yoif will notice the • ' navy firemen--the lads with the red Hr, ̂ stripes around their left shoulders-- f\[, "you will find that almost all of them 9"'"t*. are small men. But they are a husky Now, in the navy, they always haze t;,' '<> a newcomer until he shows that he jS,»f ' can take care of himself, and I got jf , mine very soon after I went into Un- |v%/ ; cle Sam's service. I was washing my clothes in a bucket on the forecastle kfj ' _ deck, and every garby (sailor) who J y' came along would give me or the bucket a kick, and spill one or the Of as. SoCii iiuic I wuulu HiCVG to some other place, bat X always seemed to be in somebody's way. Fi­ nally I saw a marine coming, t was nowhere near him, but he hauled out of his course to come up to me and gave the bucket a boot that sent it {wenty feet away, at the same time handing me a clout on the ear that S just about knocked me down. Now, I did not exactly know what a marine L' ? , was, and this fellow had so many |p stripes on his sleeves that I thought f he must be some sort of officer, so I . ;j|. just stood by. There was a gold stripe i/*'" (commissioned officer) on the bridge and I knew that If anything was wrong he would cut In, so I kept look- up at him, but he stayed where he ~T was, looking on, and never saying a K • word. And all the time the marine kept slamming me about and telling me to get the hell out of there. Finally I said to myself, "HI get iyf.' this guy if it's the brig for a month." , So I planted him one In the kidneys and another in the mouth, and he went J dean up against the rail. But he $ ' came back at me strong, and we were '4$:\ at it for some time. But when it was over the gold stripe f}/ came down from the bridge and shook '".V. • hands with me! After thls^ they did not haze me •Ji x, much. This was the beginning of a X,\ certain reputation that I had in the \t navy for fist-work. Later on I had n reputation for swimming, too. That ijV arst day they began calling me jjfr' *' "Chink," though I don't know why, IS;-"• and It has been my nickname In the V ; Mir ever since. it is a curious thing, and I never !]§# ' ?; conld understand it, but garbles and 4 s/ marines never mix. The marines are food men and great fighters, aboard >«nA ashore, but we garbles never have M word for them, nor they lar Hfl. On shore leave abroad we pal up with foreign garbles, even, but hardly ever with a marine. Of course they are with us strong In case we have a scrap »ith a liberty party off some foreign rfhip--they cannot keep out of a light any more than we eten--but after It is over they are on their way at once and w» oo oura. , - There are lots of things like that ta the navy that yon cannot figure out the reason for, and I think it is be­ cause sailors change their ways so little. They do a great many things In the navy because the navy always has done them. I kept strictly on the Job as a fire­ man, but I wanted to get Into the gun turrets. It was slow work for a long time. I had to serve as second-class fireman for four mouths, first-class for eight months and in the engine room as water-tender for a year. Then, after serving on the U. S. S. Des Moines as a gun-loader, I was transferred to the Iowa and finally worked up to a gun-pointer. After a time I got my C. P. O. rating--chief petty officer, first-class gunner. The various navies, differ in many ways, but most of the differences would not be noticed by any one but a sailor. Every sailor has a great deal of respect for the Swedes and Nor­ wegians and Danes; they are born sailors and are very daring, but, of course, their navies are small. The Germans were always known as clean sailors;' that Is, as in our navy and the British, their vessels were ship­ shape all the time, and were run as sweet as a clock. There Is no use comparing the vari­ ous navies as to which Is best; some are better at one thing and some at another. The British navy, of course, is the largest, and nobody will deny that at most things they are topnotch •--least of all themselves; they admit it But there Is one place where the navy of the United States has It all over every other navy on the sev.en seas, and that is gunnery. The Amer­ ican navy has the best gunners in the world. - And do not let anybody tell you different. < [V *> . .» Jhapter ii; ¥he War Breaks r9' After serving four years and three months in the U. S. navy, I received an honorable discharge on April 14, 1914. I held the rank of chief petty officer, first-class gunner. It is not uncommon for garbles to lie around a while between enlistments--they like a vacation as much as anyone--and It was my intention to loaf for a few months blfore joining the navy again. After the war started, of course, I had heard more or less about the Ger­ man atrocities in Belgium, and while I was greatly Interested, I was doubt­ ful at first as to the truth of the re- W~. Gunner Depew. ports, for I knew how news gfets changed In passing from mouth to mouth, and I never was much of a hand to believe things until I saw them, anyway. Another thing that caused me to be interested in the war was iiie fact thai iiiy mother was born in Alsace. Her maiden name, Dier* vleux, is well known in Alsace. I had often visited my grandmother In St. Nazalre, France, and knew the coun^ try. So with France at war, it was not strange that I should be even more Interested than many other garbles. As I have said, I did not take much stock In the first reports of the Hun's exhibition of kultur, because Fritz is known as a clean sailor, and I figured that no real sailor would ever get mixed up in such dirty work as they said there'was in Belgium. I figured the soldiers were like the sailors. But I found out I was wrong about both. One thing that opened my eyes a bit was the trouble my mother had In getting out of Hanover, where she was when the war started, and back to France. She always wore a little American flag and this both saved and endangered her. Without it, the Ger­ mans would have interned her as a Frenchwoman, and with it, she was sneered at and Insulted time and again before she finally managed to get over the border. She died about two months after she reached St. Na- zaire. Moreover, I heard the fate of my older brother, who had made his home in France with my grandmother. He had gone to the front at the outbreak of the war with the infantry from St Nazalre and had been killed two or three weeks afterwards. This made It a sort of personal matter. But what put the finishing touches to me were the stories a wounded Oanadlan lieutenant told me some months later in New York. He bad been there and he knew. You could not help believing him; you can al­ ways tell It whe«| » there and knows. There was not much racket around New York, so I made up my mind all of a sudden to go over and get some for myself. Believe me, I got enough racket before I was through. Most of the really important things I have done have happened like that: I did thW on the jump, you might say. Many other Americans wanted a look, too; there were five thousand Amer­ icans in the Canadian army at one time they say. I would not claim that X went over there to save democracy, or anything tike that I never did like Germans, and I never met a Frenchman who was not kind to me, and what I. heard about the way the Huns treated the Belgians made me sick. I used to get out of bed to go to an all-night picture show, I thought about it so much. But there was not much excitement about Ne\^ York, and I figured the U. S. would not get into it for a while, anyway, so I just wanted to go over and see what it was like. > That is why lots of us went, I think. There were five of us who went to Boston to. ship for the other side: Sam Murray, Ed Brown, Tim Flynn, Mitchell and myself. Murray was an ex- garby--two hitches (enlistments), gun- pointer rating, and about thirty-five years old. Brown was a Pennsylvania man about twenty-six years old, who had served two enlistments in the U. S. army and had quit with the rank of sergeant. Flynn and Mitchell were both ex-navy men. Mitchell was a noted boxer. Of the five of us, I am the only one who went in, got through and came out. Flynn and Mitchell did not go in; Murray and Brown never came back. The five of us shipped on the steam­ ship Virginian of the American-Ha­ waiian line, under American flag and registry, but chartered by the French government. I signed on as water- tender--an engine room job--but the others were on deck--that Is, seamen. We left Boston for St. Nazalre with a cargo of ammunition, bully beef, etc., and made the first trip without anything of interest happening. As we were tying to the dock it St. Nazalre, I saw a German prisoner sit­ ting on a pile of lumber. |I thought probably. he would be hungry, so I went down into the oilers' mess and got two slices of bread with a thick piece of beefsteal: between , them and handed*it to Fritz. He would not take it. At first I thought he was afraid to, but by using several languages and signs he managed to make me under­ stand that he was not hungry--had too much to eat, in fact. I used to think of this fellow occa­ sionally when I was in a German pris­ on calnp, and a piece of moldy bread the size of a safety-matclr box was the generous portion of food they forced on me, with true German hos­ pitality, once every forty-eight hours. I would not exactly have refused a beefsteak sandwich, I am afraid. But then I was not a heaven-born German. I was only a common American garby. He was fhll of kultur and grub; I was not full of anything. There was a large prison camp at St. Nazalre, and at one time or an­ other I saw all of it Before the war It had be^n used as a barracks by the French, army and consisted of well- made, comfortable two-story stone buildings, floored with concrete, tfith auxiliary barracks of logs. The Ger­ man prisoners occupied the stone buildings, while the French guards were quartered In the log houses. In­ side, the houses were divided into long rooms with whitewashed walls. There was a gymnasium for the prisoners, a canteen where they might buy most of the things you could buy anywhere else in the country, and a studio for the painters among the prisoners. Of­ ficers were separated from privates-- which was a good thing for the pri­ vates--and were kept in houses sur­ rounded by stockades. Officers and however, ancl all, werg given exactly the same rations and equipment as the regular French army before it went to the front. Their food consisted of bread, soup, and vino, as wine is called almost everywhere in the world. In the morning therdeceived Half a loaf of Vienna bread and coffee. At noon they each had a large dixie of thick soup, and at three in the afternoon more bread and a bottle of v|no. The soup was more like a stew--very thick with meat and vegetables. At one of the ofllcers' barrack^ thera was a cook who had been chef ft'the larg­ est hotel in Parts before the war. All the prisoners were well clothed. Onee ia week, socks, underwear, soap, towels and blankets were Issued to them, and every week the barracks and equipment were fumigated. They were given the best of medical atten­ tion. Besides aU this, they were allowed to work at their trades, if they had any. All the carpenters, cobblers, tailors and painters were kept busy, and some of them picked up more change there than they ever did in Germany, they told me. The musi­ cians formed bands and played almost every night at Restaurants and thea­ ters in the town. Those who had no trade v^ere allowed to work on the roads, parks, docks and at residences about the town. Talk about dear old jail t You could not have driven the average prisoner away from there with a 14-inch gun. I used to think about them in Bran­ denburg, when our boys were rushing the sentries in the hope of being bay- onetted out of their misery. While our cargo was being unloaded I spent most of my time with my grandmother. I had heard still more about the cruelty of the Hunfe, and made up my mind to get into the ser­ vice. Murray and Brown had already enlisted In the Foreign Legion, Brown being assigned to the infantry and Murray to the French man-of-war Cas- sard. But when I spoke of my inten­ tion, my grandmother cried so much that I promised her I would not enlist --that time, anyway--and made the return voyage in the Virginian. We were no sooner loaded in Boston than back to St. Nazaire we went. Gunner Depew, on board the French dreadnaught Cassard, gives the Pol I us a sample of the marksmanship for which the American gunners are famous. Then he leaves his ship and goes into the trenches. Dent miss the next installment. ' (TOj BE CONTINUED.) 8omething to "Greet*. About. Persons casting abo»t\for something to worry about may take pleasure in recalling from '"The Little Minister" the manner in which self-styled simply folk in Scotland regard the northern lights--"the devil's rainbow," Waster Lunny called l't. "I saw It sax times In July month," he said, "and it made me shut my een. You was out admir­ ing it, dominie, but I can never forget that it was seen In the year '12 just afore the great storm. I was only a laddie then, but I mind how that awful wind stripped a' the standing corn In the glen In less time than we've been here at the water's edge. It was called the deil's bosom. My father's hlnmost words to me was, 'It's time eneuch to greet laddie, when you see the au­ rora borealls.'" Waster Lunny was "greeting" o'er the drought then, but twelve hours later the Quharity was out of its banks, washing out the corn and with a year's store of wool on its crest was dashing out to sea. Necessity. A national exhibition wis fMMitly held in Berlin to popularise the use privates received the same treatment'of paper clothing. CARED LITTLE FOR POLITICS President Cleveland, However, Had Real Liking for the Li*, and Loved to Fish. "President Cleveland loved the law better than he did politics," remarked R. O. Brown, a former resident of Buf­ falo, to a reporter of the Washington Post "Had he considered his own de­ sires he would never have left his prac­ tice for political office. I doubt if even the prospect of becoming president would have Induced *hlm to enter poli­ tics. "It was my privilege to know Mr. Cleveland when he was practicing his profession before he entered politics. He was not what might be termed a glittering success as a lawyer. He had no business instinct so far as the law was concerned, but he delighted • in Intricate legal problems, and much pre­ ferred to take a case that Involved ap­ parently hopeless questions. It could not be said he was a good pleader, and while the average person was not at­ tracted by his addresses in court, judges on the bench hdd the greatest respect for them, because they were profound and logical. "When he was not engaged in law, Cleveland delighted In utter abandon­ ment of all things that required thought; above everything else hfe loved to fish. I recall thnt when some of his Democratic friends wanted him to become a candidate for mayor he: said: 1 don't want any more of poll- tics. I want to stay right here In Erie county, where I can go fishing occa­ sionally. I do not care if I never get outside the borders of Erie.' " Shields have been invented to pre­ vent the propellers and rudders of powerboats being tangled ip fisher­ men's netSL Slightly Nervous. • Flanlgan, a brand new soldier, was placed on guard one dark night Fall­ ing to see another soldier approaching until he was almost^%side him, Flan- igan nearly jumped but managed to goes there?" low's name, aiij that he wasn't away, says Flani of his skin "W-who g- told the fel. g out for sur« o be killed right regaining his courage: discount" 'Advance then and give the Moon by "Earthllght" When the crescent of the new moon appears in the west the phenomenon called "the old moon In the young one's arms" Is often observed. Part­ ly embraced by the horns of the cres* cent is seen the whole round orb of the moon. The cause of this appear­ ance Is that the»"earthllght" upon that part of the moon not reached by the sunshine 1s sufficiently brilliant to ren­ der It faintly visible to our eyes. Harnesses Sun's Rays. An experimenter in the ltoyal Col­ lege of Science In Toronto claims that he has found a way to harness the sun's heat to Industrial tusks of al­ most any nature. For Instance, by his experiments with mirror combinations he has focused reflected rays so as to melt a bar of lead at a temperature below freezing to a depth of one and a half inches. In 43 seconds. Intended No Harm. Lucy was playing up on the lawn with her little puppy when the dog next door came up wagging his tall In a most friendly way. The little pup stuck his tail between his legs and started for the house. Lucy caught him, saying: "Don't be afraid, pup; he won't hurt you; he Juit coflM ever to introduce hisseLL" With the Passing of Mrs Fiftieth Birth- t pay Man Should Take a Few " i Moments and Think Hard. c V , ir" When you have passed, say, your fiftieth birthday anniversary, that foxy old gent, Mr. Time, pu^t&e .skids un­ der you and greases them good and plenty. It Is appalling, then, how quickly the days and the weeks and the months pass, ifou start in on Monday morn­ ing, and before you know It, it Is Sat- urday night again. Even the years slip by as though you were riding through life on a roller coaster. The thing to do then, brother^ is to put on the brakes. Slow up and get a little more enjoyment out of the seen: ery. " ' % -- Sotoe men think thatjust the other way Is the best metlwd to adopt^ but we are convinced that they are making a mistake. Their idea is that the thing to do whetf one grows gray and bald is to keep up with the procession, wear pinch-back clothes, nilk socks tend a sailor hat with a polka dot band. But, If you do that, all you achieve Is an acceleration of the pace. It is * pathetic form of camouflage that de­ ceives no one, and yourself least of all. When you are fifty and over, you know It, and everyone else knows It. r When a i..an is fifty he should have a home in the country, or at least out of the town. He should awake before dawn and say good morning to the sun, sip his glass of water deliberately In­ stead of gulping It down, move serene­ ly, take his time. When night comes he should be able to say, "Well, this has been a fine, long day," instead of saying, "For the love of Mike, where has this day gone to?" Then, when old age comes, you will be able to say with the sage: "Old age Is the night of life, but Is the night not beautiful with- stars?"--Los Angeles Times. < • Real "Lucky Bone," One of the most precious pbssea* sions of an officer in England, and one which excited much curiosity during a recent short leave, is an ordinary wish­ bone which he has had mounted in gold and carries about with him as a mas­ cot, it having already, he avers, once saved his life. , v It appears that while near the front line in France he was enjoying a rare meal of doubtful chicken with a couple of brother officers, and was just about to try conclusions with the wishbone with his opposite comrade when it slipped from his plate and dropped under the heavy oak table the three had managed to secure from a ruined farmhouse for their barn billet. No sooner had the Birmingham man got under the table to grope for the bone than the barn was reduced to debris by a couple of direct hits from enemy airplanes. The other two officers were killed outright, but the stout table saved the third from any material Injury. The wishbone - was firmly clasped In his right hand when he was dug out of. the ruins. • ' -- Hit Profiteers in Meat Queensland, New South Wales, has found a way "to get cheap • meat. Its policy, inaugurated by the Queensland labor government in November, 1915, is now pas^the experimental stage and working tfell. Convinced that exploi­ tation was going on "on a grand scale," and finding every attempt at price re­ striction met with bitter complaints from dealers? the government declded- to test the situation Itself, and set up state butcher shops. After two years jnd a half of operation, reports the 3taff correspondent of the . Montreal Star at Queensland, the price of meat, which had increased 100 per cent in war time, under private control has !>een brought down "to a figure equal to what It was before the war, plus i difference due to legitimate causes, such as droughts." Beef fell nine ?ents a pound when the first state shop was opened. Mi "fit.|f" Japan's Early Submarines, Kamugusu Mlnakata, in London Notes and Queries, tells of the (exist­ ence, In the seventeenth century, of far Eastern ancestors of the modern sub­ marine and Ironclad. Kuki Moritaka was hidden by Ieyasu during the win­ ter siege of Osaka castle, in 1014, to J>ulld four 'blind boats' to stop the musketry firing from a turret which was annoying his army considerably. Rukl thereupon constructed some blind boats,' manned them with his noldlers, advanced therewith sub­ merged In the moat and crushed the turret with his cannon. Thence was nade known how to build a 'blind mat* as it had originally been Invented !>y Lord Kukl." This Is the evidence yt an anonymous writer of the year 1700 or thereabouts. Gipsies Came From Far East India. When the gipsies first appeared In Rngland In the fifteenth century the name gipsy was given to them by the Rngllsh people, who believed them to have come from Egypt. The French, by similar mistake, called them Bohe­ mians. But a careful study of their race, and especially their language, *hows that they came originally from India. The gipsy language Is derived from the Sanscrit as are the other Aryan languages of India. A sim­ ilar error was made by the English when they called a distinctly Ameri­ can bird a turkey, under th» lmpres* *lon thnt It was an importation from the Ottoman empire, and by the French when they called the same bird coq d'Indle, ^evlng that J4 c^^fom Lots to Ssy. w Three of them had been In one lit­ tle room for three days, an American, a Frenchman and an Italian. -Came a Red Cross man on the afternoon of the third day, \ "Is there anything I can do for yo»?M he asked. "Yes," replied the American, "you might get an Interpreter. Tony and Gaston and I have been trading to­ bacco and showing each other our girls' pictures and saying 'oui* and 'si' and 'yes* for three days now, and we've got a lot to tell each other if yon can get somebody to help us " M ° ~ 1 ** *W* •• • : Yortt.^-Ortee uptio • tinw the Roman warriors pulled over their heads the shaggy hides of animals as they advanced on the enemy. They ha$ the primitive, childlike belief that the sight of the animals would fright­ en the opposing side. Such Is the history of the grenadier caps worn by the British army, and such Is proba­ bly the inspiration of the new war­ like clothes Invented in these times of War. These are worn in Paris, or rather they were worn at the Paris open­ ings, says a fashion writer. They have arrived in this country, and their ac­ ceptance is debatable. There are women who will wear anything new, regardless of its effect on their appearance, and these women may make the new fabrics fashionable. At first glance, they are rather ter­ rifying. One has a slight creeping of feeling for the opposing side" to the legions of Caesar. Even a stout-' hearted warrior would hate to face a great rush of animal skins moving to­ ward him with rapidity. That will be the situation that must he faced by every stout-hearted man this winter, If these shaggy materials take first place in fashion. To the observer they are the leading phase of the season's output. They are pure­ ly a French invention, and even If they are not accepted In their entirety of shagginess, they will undoubtedly pave the way for an immediate output of silky materials with rough sur­ faces. The first of these materials was called "Lionceau," and was invented (1ate last winter, I think, and then used *s a substitute'for fur. "" : Magnificent as Weil as /8haggyl ,• The majority of those who dip deep­ ly into the sources of fashions and fabrics insist that the entire output of these animalistic materials is due to the,recrudescence of monkey fur. That, however, would not explain the other fabrics which are used. in the new French gowns that are arriving in this country, and which have hunting Scenes, magnificently ornamental, on a dark background. Jenny uses this material for panels and for large pieces of evening frocks. Then there are other fabrics which show birds and birds' plumage as the ornamental design, but these are of minor brilliancy as against the animal fabrics, which not only toss about the red and burnt-orange ;halr of monkeys and orang-outangs, but also the manes of animals such as never existed on land or sea; these are made from five- and six-inch strands of curled silky floss Interwoven with metal. The bird fabrics are called "Oisella" and the burnt-orange hides are called "Orang-outang." lit other' gowns, espe­ cially one from Bulloz, there is used a new material called "Toison d'Or," which means "The Golden Fleece." Still another material--and the love­ liest of all because it Is the most prac­ tical for American usage--is the imi­ tation of a medieval coat of mail. This fabric, alongside the shaggy ones, seems to be cultured and modern. I am dwelling in detail on all these fabrics of the hour because I believe that the great masses of women over this continent are going into the shops very soon to buy materials for their new clothes. Every woman does not have an expensive., dressmaker or a great department store to furnish her costumes for the season. Such tricks of fortune favor only the ^ew. TW war has brought about an Immense amount of home dressmaking, for all the seamstresses in the world cannot go into munition factories and earn large wages. Some of them must' stick to their trade, and those who do can reap a harvest HIGH NEOKS AND NO SLEEVES 'XT*1 New Evening Gown Is a Revival of an Old Historical Fashion Ex­ ploited Years Ago. Tt*e long skirt has been accepted by America. France and Great Britain for the day as well as the evening, an authority states, regardless of the fact that wartime activities seem to de­ mand the shortest Skirt we have? ever worn. Another feature of apparel upon which there is such a general unifica­ tion of spirit is the Introduction In America of a type of gown that many Americans like. It is for the evening, and has a high collar and absolutely no sleeves. This 1» a revival of an old historical fashion which was exploited In this country over a quarter Of a ceDtury ago. The same model worn then Is restored now from the family album. It is a princess cut, with a train, a high ruche at the neck, after the Medici or the Elizabethan manner, and merely tight ornamental armholes. No gloves are to be worn with this painting flowers on hats Camouflage Playing an Important Part In the Decoration of Both Gowns and Millinery. If you don't look like what you want to, paint It, seems to be the motto of the military and naval com­ mander of today. And perhaps he Is only using the principle long known to womankind; for she has long known that a short cut to the bloom and blusli of youth could be acquired by much the same method, and since the dowagers of ancient Egypt first began to loll on divans %and eat sweetmeats no doubt there have been experts in woman's attire who have understood the art of reducing pounds of too, too solid flesh from hips and arms and shoulders by the skillful manipulation of color and drapery of fabric. Now comes a clever millinery de­ signer who goes even further. If French artificial flowers are high priced, what cares she? All that mat­ ters Is the appearance. No one cares If the flowers are really there or not. - Hf ' Questions That Women Aak. It Is to the fabrics, therefore, tllj(t the great majority of women will tur%. Is It serjfe, they ask, or Jersey! * Smooth futrrics or rough ones? Does * mldnight-olue hold Its., own? Is Ox­ ford gray again in fashion? Are eve­ ning gowns light, brilliant or bomb*? in coloring? Does taffeta conthuMjp # Will satin be good? These are quotations, note Ima^lna-^ tions. They are asked by the swirl­ ing tide of women who are trying to make every dollar realize Its full value, today. They have taken to heart the* twin doctrines of conservation economy. "Non-essential" Is over the doorway of every home and in the heart of every worker. WemuSt buy, for we must be clothed, and we wish to keep in service those who haver, served us; but we must not buy Idly, nor foolishly, "nor with an eye to our selfish comforts,, rather than the good . of the majority. /-..tf- To buy the materiel that is ofct efc fashion is wasting money. There ae* those who will cry aloud In protest against such a statement, but it !• quite true. We gain nothing by git-1 ing ourselves a new cause for discon­ tent. When it is as easy to b«? In the fashion as out of It, it shows efficiency*: good judgment and a level head ttt^ f walk in the right path. \ ^ The Right Path. To those who inquire as to what t®?:¥4 the right path, therefore, it is wise t^j • say that there is an undoubted tend* * ency toward the imitation of animal " hides in fabrics, but that one should go warily among such novelties. The main truth is that very smooth ma­ terials have lost their savor and that increasing roughness is prophesied. It is Quite possible that these ne# fashions In fabrics will keep serge oq|' , of first place. One finds it offered bjr - the best tailors and dressmakers, but already women look a bit askance a|; I It when they see piled up against l|f . 3 the new fabrics that represent a dlf* T l| ferent epoch in weaving. v ic As for taffeta. It seems to be left If j the ,eold. It is used by such artists all- ;:: Mme. Paquln of Paris and her fol­ lowers in this country for young girls, but not for women; and for evening, ' not for the day hours. 'It Is In rlcfi \- light blue that it is most frequently : employed, and It Is theL trimmed with silver flowers and white monkey fur. There Is a "dearth of satin. It Is to© early to say whether it will be en» 7: - tirely abandoned in this country, bu| at the moment It is not represented l#:^f1 the new French frocks in the generous manner of other days. 'vf! All the designers are lavish with ' > velvet, as in the medieval days, and ^ It Is used In the picturesque Italiaa *' fashion, ornamented with superb em­ broideries of metal and silk. So far, these richly decorated vef»/"f vets, as well as the plain weave, are,-, , kept for the evening, but there are ^ many tobacco brown and leathet*- ;• shades, and dark blue ones, used fof | the afternoon. There are also leather li shades, by the way, In a heavy quality of satin, which looks like cloth and is trimmed with wool embroidery. Those leather tones are harkenlng back to medieval days, and to those centuriet when Spain led the world in/dress, am France does today. It was then that Spain made her Cordova and Morocco* leather famous. (Copyright, 1918, by the McClure Newspa­ per Syndicate.) Ostrich Plumes Return. There is a recrudescence of ostrich feathers over the land, and as all th# milliners are insisting that hats shall be trimmed there is every reason to believe that the African plume will be restored to fashion. gown; It Is intended to show the arm at its best. France persists in the use of black and white checkerboard fabrics for trimming, and they appear In America, but are not greeted with much en­ thusiasm. It Is a difficult design to handle unless the checkerboard comes down Into such small dimensions that It evaporates into checks.. Wopth has insisted upon the broad form as an excellent ornamentation for top coats and capes, and the Americans have taken up the idea as a lining for capes with considerable success. There Is to be no end of dapes, you know. They belong to, the slip-on, sllp-off-easlly variety of clothes., which all women consider part of the effort toward economy in time. ^ • One-Sided Bead Embroidery. One effective frock of black satin has a big design in colored beads worked out at the bottom of the skirt, - It Is an irregular design, and as it le ^ on only one side of the skirt, near the> hem. It gives a one-sided look to th^vf;- frock--but a one-sided look that l#^f' highly attractive. » ^ So she has put out some charm'Thf? black satin velvet hats for early au-T" tumn on which are painted In oils ttwf most gorgeous flowers, and so clev* <Hy Is the work done and so strong | the relief that there Is no way of telling at casual sight that they aiw Hi not all they look to be. Ant) there 1#, ' I an advantage about these flower* aside from the fact that they can b#, r ^ fashioned out of any clever artist'st, paint box--neither fog, mists nor sun* • shine can change their shape and iff perchance they fade a little they cant/^ be touched up by * f*w strokes of the * paint brush. ^ Fid for Colon befof-e, surely, was" there6 snclr ( a fad for color In dress accessories.' -y. There are collar and cuff sets of aprl« \ cot, rose, green, buff, white edged with' black or a pastel shade, white em*-v". • broidered with colored polka dotsi"^' white bordered with bunds of plaid, ' • white l&den with many strips of tadp# i ; shirring. Every Imaginable shade an<f*|;, f combination may be seen as well a^ : every possible style of collar or cuff. " ., MIS' -'vV 4 twMfc&b* f .Ui'mSC , t riJL« Jt^id, Ji&d