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By LIZ CAMPBELL Special to the Beaver Two things are essential in a good restaurant; knowlâ€" edgeable wait staff and a knowledgeable chef. An attracâ€" tive decor is a bonus and one I would barter without a qualm for good food. Navy Blues has a smart interior. Despite a large bar that dominates the centre of the room, the tables are dressed in real linen; chic balloon curtains enhance the windows, and the ambience is warm and comfortable. Navy â€"Blues also boasts a knowledgeable wait staff. Our waiter was able to explain in detail which dishes were spicy and what the daily specials had to offer. What a treat after the more common, "Gee, I don‘t know how it‘s made, I‘ll ask the chef for you." In fact, he made everyâ€" thing sound so good, it was hard to decide. And then there‘s the chef. Antonio Botelho has a decided flair for both flavor and presentation. Newly installed as owner of Navy Blues, he had been the chef under the previous owners. The menu is new and tempoâ€" rary as Antonio attempts to cater to the collective palate of Oakville. Look for more changes in the near future as he moves to a smaller fixed menu with more specials includâ€" ing lamb, venison, and some of the more seasonal variâ€" eties of fish. Give yourself time to relish Navy Blues 4 oz. shiitake mushrooms 4 oz. oyster mushrooms 4 oz. button mushrooms 2 tosp olive oil 1 or 2 thsp soya sauce garlic (optional) 1 tbsp chopped parsley 1 thsp chopped green onions Balsamic vinegar to taste or red wine vinegar butter (optional) cracked black pepper Heat olive oil in pan. Saute the mushrooms over high heat. Add soya sauce, garlic, parsley, green onions, pepper. Add butter if necessary. Add a little water to moistâ€" en. Toss salad with your favorite dressing. Decorate the plate with Belgian endives and rediâ€" chio. Add salad and top with the warm mushâ€" rooms. The night we visited, a cold blueberry soup, as well as, Warm Mushroom Salad RESTAURANT WINE BAR OWNED OPERATED BY LUSO CANADIAN CATERING Navy Blues chef Antonio Botelho with one of the more popular items on his menu â€" Warm Mushroom Salad. a spicy seafood soup were on the specials list. My partner chose the spicy soup, but I opted for the warm mushroom salad with tangy fresh herbs and garlic. Let me recomâ€" mend this latter to mushroom devotees. It‘s on the regular menu and consists of a selection of delicious shiitake, enoki, oyster, and the usual white button mushrooms tossed with herbs and garlic, and served on a bed of greens and radicchio with a light marinade. Superb! The soup was rich and tangy with lots of pieces of seafood in it, but beware! When Antonio says spicy, he means it. It had a decided bite. As a main course, we both chose fish. I selected Swordfish, marinated and grilled, then topped with a spicy Caribbean sauce made of pieces of mango and what appeared to be passion fruit. It came accompanied by grilled sweet potato discs (very tender and not at all stringy), crisp, steamed snow peas, and asparagus, and a mound of sweet red cabbage, presented with great style. I have one complaint. The quantities were worthy of a lumber jack‘s board and far too much for me. However, those with hearty appetites will appreciate the generous portions. And I did notice a guest at the next table making a complete meal of the warm seafood salad which actually Baked Atlantic salmon was a huge, boneless fillet of salmon topped with a delicate Hollandaise sauce and served with the same selection of vegetables. in en en e e e e e e BUSINESS | SUNDAY LIVE LUNCHES BRUNCH ENTERTAINMENT p from 3.95 to 7.95 | Adults 13.95 _ | Thurs. Sal Children 4.95 _ | Comin mMENI from 11:00â€"3:00 | Wed. filght Blues Nigh 75 NAVY STREET, OAKVILLE. FOR RESERVATIONS CALL 842â€"8854. (Photo by Peter McCusker) appears on the appetizer menu. The wine list has a great many options including, I was surprised and delighted to find, some excellent offerings by the glass. Try the new Mateus Signature wine â€" a robust Portuguese red with plenty of flavor and a reasonâ€" able price ticket. For dessert, if space permits, try Antonio‘s Creme Caramel. There are few chefs who can do this dessert as well...it was light, creamy, and simply delicious. Chocoholics will love the white chocolate cake, almost sinfully rich and very sweet, but redeemed by the dark chocolate sauce which topped it (one could choose instead a topping of raspberry coulis which I suspect would have made the whole too sweet for words). Some may remember that in early days, Navy Blues started as a coffee roasting house. They no longer roast the beans, but they haven‘t compromised on the quality of the brew. Even the decaf my partner enjoyed was good coffee. After dinner, we visited downstairs where live music is available Thursday to Saturday nights from 9 p.m. â€" 1 a.m. One could retire down there for a dance and a liqueur after dinner. Navy Blues isn‘t fast food dining; it‘s relaxed and enjoyable, so give yourself time to relish the experience. Navy Blues is located at 75 Navy St. Call 842â€"8854. FRIDAY, JUNE 4, 1993 PAGE FF LIVE ENTERTAINMENT urs a Wed. filght Blues Night Huxley‘s ‘investigations‘ pg. 14