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Reâ€"discover an old friend at Oliver‘s Fish bones from the salmon 4 oz dry white wine 1 tablespoon flour 6 slices of fresh salmon 4 to 5 oz each 1/4 inch thick. This recipe may be preâ€" pared a day in advance. Prepare the stuffing: Wash and cook the spinach, run cold water to cool it down and squeeze as much water out as possible. Dice onions finely and crush the garlic. Sweat lightâ€" ly in 1 oz butter, add the spinach and the crab meat, cook on high heat for a minute, add the cream, bring to a boil and let cool down on counter. Lay down 1 sheet of filo. Baste the four sides and make an X diagonally; place other sheet on top. Season 1 slice of salmon with salt and pepper; place in the middle of the filo; put 1/6 of the stuffing on the salmon. Roll the filo and close the sides tightly. Repeat 5 times! Make a fish stock with the bones, cook for 10 minutes and add 1 tablespoon of flour to thicken it. Add 4 oz white wine and cook for another 5 minutes. Season with salt, pepper and herb of your choice â€" dill, fennel or basil. Strain. This sauce can also be prepared in advance. Bake the filo that you will baste again in preheated oven at 400° for 10 to 15 minutes. Salmon in Filo Pastry For the Stuffing 2 bunches spinach 8 oz crab meat 1 medium chopped onion 2 cloves garlic . 1 cup whipping cream For the Filo 12 sheets filo pastry 8 oz melted butter For the Sauce Bon apetit. By LIZ CAMPBELL Special to the Beaver Have you ever had the experiâ€" ence of not seeing an old friend for some time, then finding that he or she looks terrific? Having dinner at Oliver‘s the other night was like rediscovering an old friend. And it was terrific. But here‘s the difference. The menu which once comprised only steak and seafood has been expanded, modernized and improved. You can still get a juicy steak or lamb chops; there‘s even fresh lobster on special at the moment (I watched a lady at the next table tucking into hers with great relish). But these days one finds fresh market entrees as well. And the specials list (which Warm wood, stained glass and lots of snowy linen are elegant without being pretentious. The ambience is ordered, peaceful and dignified. Huge bowls of fresh blooms decorate the side boards and soft flames flicker in brandy balloons on each table. Thus far, Oliver‘s is still my old friend. The Oliver‘s chefs: Gilles Duchon and John Lau. Olivers is coâ€"owned by mother/daughter partners Eva Kritikos and Nancy Knowles and now features the seafood bar Fagin‘s. (Photo by Riziero Vertolli) 141 Lakeshore Rd. E., Oakville _ Reservations: 845â€"9391 Oliver‘s offers a dining experience to delight the senses. ... exquisite fare ofâ€"steak, fresh fish, U.S. lamb, game pasta ... an extensive wine list including rare vintages ... delicate desserts made on the premises ... elegant decor. At Fagin‘s we offer a sumptuous seafood bar. The cold soup of the day was fresh pineapple and orange garâ€" nished with fresh mint, very refreshing and delicious. My husâ€" band‘s huge Camembert wedges had been coated and deep fried to just the right temperature. The outside was crisp and hot but inside the cheese was soft and melting. I like the strawberry sauce and fresh berry garnish much better than the more tradiâ€" tional cranberry sauce I have seen these served on. our waiter recited without missâ€" ing a beat) is almost as long as the menu. Listen carefully, because here is where you‘ll find the chef‘s creative streak. From a list that included buffaâ€" lo, venison, wild boar and Arctic Char, I chose the last. It came, a huge portion topped by several large grilled shrimp and served with a caper and white wine sauce. Beautifully arranged fresh asparagus, fiddleheads, baby carâ€" rots, broccoli and a small mound of white and wild rice were preâ€" sented with it. The fish was grilled to perfection, not a dry flake on it and the capers were an ideal complement. Venison medallions came with the same vegetable array but a roasted potato rather than rice, and a sauce made of mango, green olives and red wine. The slightly fruity sauces suit venison best and this one was an excellent choice. Now after all that, you will be amazed that there was a corner left for dessert. Actually, there wasn‘t but greed won out once I had seen the dessert list. And remember that dining at Oliver‘s is a wonderfully leisurely process so there‘s plenty of time to digest one course and relax before the next appears. I say all this in mitiâ€" gation and by way of explaining why I selected Apple Beignets for my dessert. These came with a scoop of Oliver‘s homemade ice cream and swimming in a bath of Triple Sec. The beignets were rings of apple, dipped in an airy batter and fried, coated in cinnamon sugar and served piping hot. The hot fritter and the icy cold ice cream were a striking contrast and the liqueur just made it perfect. The frozen _ blueberry Daquoise my husband selected started with a base of meringue, filled in with blueberry mousse and finished with a thick layer of| white chocolate. This arrived in a sea of blueberry sauce. Not a dessert for dieters, this is a very sweet but incredibly good confecâ€" tion. I haven‘t mentioned the wine list which would put Vintages to shame. I selected a glass of their vin ordinaire, which assuredly was not. A little smoother than your average restaurant plonk, this was a surprisingly pleasant‘ wine from France called Pere Patriarche. The service was consistently good at every table we observed, the waiters and maitre d‘ taking the time to ensure that everyone was content. This is dining in the European manner, with taste and decorum, but with a menu for the 90‘s. If you haven‘t been to Oliver‘s lately, rediscover an old friend because you‘re in for a delightful surprise.