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Trouble Brews In Fashion Circles The deposed b-ký-ing9oÊ thle ~Ouse ofï Dior, Yves St. Laurent, (ay iscon-solýately on a Mai orcan 1,)each, While the heir-designîate ,uA the late Christian Dior was l"ecupeatngf omrilitary ser- 'yc and a, conseqifent nervous ýreakdown, Marc Boban1, for- ier1y chief designer in Diors tondon office, had usurped his throne. Boban's design-, f or »ior's spring collection last Jan- iary had triumiphed grandly. St. Laurent, now a rip>e 2.4, iooked back over the wý,reckage of bis kambitions and brooded darkly. Bohan, ,1ho is pushing 36, bad ne time 'for brooding. The sliml dark-haired designer w:as in New York last monthi,naking cere- maniai cails3 on the governor- generals of bis far-flung realin and checking on the Dior-New York collection prior to its un- veiling. At Lord -& Taylor, hie smrriled wt exquisite politeness when its presidept, ïMelvin Daw- ley, vetured to inforn hlmr that "Fashion is wýor.-dwide." H1e ac- hnowledged graciously tle wel- rornes prepared by Saks Fifth ,&venue's Adan Gimble, Banwit Teller's Edgar Wherry, and Berg1- dorf Goodmna's Andrew Good- ma-i ofwhom -11tok timne out to shiow- him thieir stores. Arlene :Francis, Betty Furness, Joh11 Crosby, and Dave Garraway in- terviewýed bimi on radio and TV. Ail this was rcomnpense iodeed for a muan who once toiled in a coat shop ini the jungle of New~- York's Seventh Avenue, and whose attemiPt ta set up bis ownl couturier house had failed dis- mally in 1955. Now, a married man andjth father of a 7-year- old duheBoba ail'y b. something of anl oddity in the ïashion business, but there is no- thing çtrangeý abouit the popular- ity otj bis designs--youth.ful, simple, and very rnuch in con- formrity wýýith thie natural fernalel figure. The Bohlanlfines unveiled thie week at thes Dior-New York f al-e end-wvinter collecrtion were no great departure frorn those o!ý last season, Low riecks, short Terrif ic Trio PRINTED PATTERN Oni-e skiirt is arrow-slirni, one a yhlrl OfÈf luid pleats -- bth go ceautifu!liy i the baxy jacket fit's f ava'red above al for 1'1n-mer. Cbaase cottan> iinen. Printed JPatteru 4851: NMisses" *es10, 12, 14, 16, 18 Size 16 frcket 24~ yards 35-inch; slim âkirt 17à': full skîrt 35/e yâhi-s; Send FIFTY' CENTS (siarnps eannot -be accepted, use postai el,e foir safety) for tbis patteru., NUMIBER. Senid ordier to ANNE ADALMS, ox1, 123 Eighteenith St, Nvw Toronto, Ont. ANNOUJNCING the b i'-ggzet fashi-,on show of Sprin.-g-lSiumer, 1961 - pagýes, pages, pages of patteris ns -O'ur new Colort, a- log -- just out! Uurry, sençi 35-, now! ISSUE 22 r-. 196 hem s, 1w w ',aistL lnes, flopp badices, and pieated sund fae skirts predomiiinated, luirgh calors but wvith few,,er pinks than last year. '41 do not beli,ýee1i radical chang"es, but In evolu- tion," said Bobani, "and I believe in casueal fit. Extreme eliegance or, formiality in drssi e -dded thougbtfuIiyv, "is not for aur ac- tive lif'e." Almast at the momnent be cw-as speaiking. if e suddenly becameo ,very active indeed for Bohian. Yves St. Laurent, back in Paris fromr exile but rarely scen ln public, announced througb bhis lawyer, Jean Pierre Bredin, that be w-as suing Dior for $1l20,000 for theýir breýacb of his contract 1wbicb bias tbree years stili ta, ru n, St. Laurent w-as also re- portediy planning ta open bis. a\xn fashion ouein 1P-aris. 11e w-as, said Bredin, "maore hurt than ang-ry." ExactIy What Is A Billion Dollars? At somne point every year thlere is alUýays bopeful talk about new eýfticiençley and eeccny In gav- ermeont, aud -,ome politiciens ai- ways. piously suggest that tbey w-i be "disan,,poinited unless- the, savings w-hich are effected are in tbe hundrecis of millions or even a_ billion dollars.', It seer1ns ta uis that w-e shCou1d behappy with w-btever besigwe lrnay geýt iu tbiýs respeýCt-especially -if theyV are coDunted in termsý of a One billio-n cdollars, w-e al]tend ta forget in these days of mult- billian-Uolar budgets an.d expen- diture"S, is a W-hal12 a, lot air mouey ,,S ' vlvia Farter, the noted finau.ci.al Columnist, once sug- gested a guide ta heip people visualize just haw mitcb a billioýn dollars la. Here la w-bat shýe said: "WbeuJnever I try ta eampreb.end sueh sta-tisties as these, I mumblt to myself: ('1f 1 bad a billion dollars and I set oult tacount it, at th* rate of $100 a minute for 48 heursý a week, it would take more th&a 66 years ta comiplete* the Jýb '. .. And if yau are stili a littlit hazy an how mucb $1 billion la, bere îs another'formula for meas- tirlug lt w-bicbi is a favorite af ours: If a business founded at the beginning of 'the year 1 A.D. had bee-n losing $1,000 a day iice that time, lt would not ye't1 have icst $1 billion, In fact, At wol stili have nearly $300 mil.- ion ta go--and would flot reach a $1l billion loss for another '750-1 oýdd years. Obviously, a n y competitive business thatet contuously l]oses $1,000 a. day for even, a few years would be biard pressed ta attract employees a n d sfockbholders. Goverumnent agýencies and bu- reaus are uufortunateiy net sub- iect ta the pressures af campe- titive free enterprise w-hicbh las sa long servaM to w-eed out the inefficienrt busiessman or the indust-y w-hich no longer pro- vides a uiseful praduct or service. By Edw-ard E, Hale. Modern Etiquette By Anne Ashley Q. Wlien one has a serions iii- ness in one's family, and a friend says, "I arn sorry," what should One's response be? A. "Thank yau" is suffJlCieut. Q. I recently saw a person. aîter dlning i a restaurant, dip bis fingers into bis glass of water and thein w-tpe tlxem on his nap- km.ý Is fuis good manners? A. Neverý If there are no fingerbowls an~d tbe fingers are sticky, it 's permîssible ta tip the glass of w-atée 'into one corimier of tie napkiui, thenipe the fingersý Q. Are ah plates x'enov;cd from the dfi»ner tale prior, to serving the dessert? 1 A. Yesthe tble shuld1 b GLITTERING GLAMOUR - Wearirig diamond nacklace and whi'te Dor gown, Sophia Loren arrives at Canne3 Film Festival Palace foýr show/ing'of her picture, "La Ciociora." FIH2ONICLLM To me, one of the nost re- warding features of writîng tbis, columan cornes lnu tbe fan miail it brings mne. Today I rceceived a letter from a reader niear Peter- borough with whiom I bad cor- eesponded briefly seven years ago. To get a letter: atter that lapse of time was indeed a pleasure, especially as the,( lady in question stili seerns to be reading tbis column and appar- ently getting some pleasure in eoing sa. Her letter sent me seani- ning tbroughi back files of fan iniail and I w-as amnazed tu fînd that letters have corne to me from ail parts of Ontario and thie U.S.A. - and even somre fromn England, mnost of wbicb I bave answered personally. Samne of the letters asked for a littie advice in solvîng personal problems whicb I was only too glad to of- fer. Thie lady fromn Peterborough said - "You will neyer 1-noW w-bat your letter meant ta m-e I suppose that was because I was able ta take. a long range view of hier problems at that tine, If we are tao close to the prol<lems involved, or inimate- ly associated witb ail parties Coni- cernied, we cannot always get the,ý rigbit perspective. And sa, dear friends, if I can ever be of as- sistance ta you do nat hesitate ta write. I don't pretend ta av the wisdom of Job but in aur long experience Partner and 1 bave bad to mneet, and to salve in somne way, tbe same sort of prob- lemns that occur in many familles, and wbichi, at times, seem alrnost insurmountable. Well, We have ha'd fou,- con- sècutive days without ram - quit a record. And al t'p- Pi e in tbis neighbburbaod bava been as busy asý bees round a hive - opening, up screen win- dows, taking off storrn doiors, dig- ging utp. flower beds and cutting grass. We biave been planting canas, ebatting witb neig-bbaurs, aùis4ýconparing n iotes as ta wbat dled" and whait survived 0he win- ter, months. We didln't have .too n-uch stuiff lie-d out. %A golden prizedas cbew-ed off,'by, rabbits. Haeer t is shoîn p frami ->w daaluz lu aucb, goodcSu. mov we h4 O tlt> the roots so myeit won't be a total boss after ail, We even put the veranda chairs out ta- day - andm ed ta find -A f ew- minutes ta sit in thern toc. Isn't the springltirnie wonder- ful? Daesn't it just mkeyau feel good ta b. aive? t does more tiien that for mie - it makes me feel guiity. h., wel Yeu see, I have a f riend about ny 0w-n age vinaho -s been ln hospital for the last five montbs and sa far there isn't any îefinite wvord of bier comnine out. 'Every f ew- days I phone ber but w-ha$ can yau say ta comifart a persan w-ho is on the insîde w-ile you are on the outside? Unfortunately ber w-orld seemï ta be sbriuking 'all the time, She la l1osi;ng 'nterest in so mauy -4hings. Even reading bores ber. In short ber world is uow- more than ever w-tbin the four wails of the bospital; ber conversation main-ly about the treatmlents she is getting and w-bat the doctor said on bis last vîsit. Sbe bas, lu mny opinion, gîvenl up fighting. And w-ben that" bappens drugs sud treatrnents bave less effect. Doctors and medication can heip a lot but anily with the coop>eration of the patient. And so you sen w-by I feel guifty lu taiking ta tis friend of mine. 1, tao, have ny ups sud daw-ns, and cannot do the: tbiugs I used ta do. But, general- ly speaking, I ami still bubblingé over with the joy of living w-hile ahl My friend know-s of 'tus lovely sprinigtimne is w-bat she, can see from-i the 4th floor Wi-u dlow-of the baspital -mraybe a glimipse of the tops of trees carn- ing into leaf w-th 9, few- birds flit- ting frorn one treà ta another. Weil, FPartner la doing pleuty of cbuckling these days . ,..and at me! For the first tirnQ in my ife e1Ihave b1ad the courage ta corne aut in siacks! 1 really balugbt themn last year ta wear et the cottage - a:nd t1hen 1 neyer got te the cottage. Sa this mnoru- iug to work in the garclen I dauued My slacksq and found themn a great protection against the wid which stlll bas a bite iri 1t, Partuier says the next thirg 111ilbe wearing l- ishorts, 1 taid hlm nflt ta worry -- 1I atfl haV acertain anouut of, vanlty, iaTnd ta my way of tinking shorts and varicose velus do't go ta- gether. At least tbey don't makie n.attractive comibiu.atian, Slacks 'st lêasklhave the saviug grace ef concealmeut. Partnier's "unext jibe weas that 1 mniglit take a' f ew beauty treat- monts likçe samre of the other w-amen I huow-. A beauity caurt- sellar comres ta the homnes and gives skiu treatmnents, supposedly ta, remlove pimiples and atheï skini blemnishes. The cost is $25 for a 'tw-o-hoýtir session. -Maybe she does some good, I don't know-. But I tbink if I wer',, youug-er, before taking a chance like that 1 Would try eatiug less riclb food and quit smioking. Beauty treatments, lu miy Opinion , stert fram withàiu. Sef are paying. $25 I w-ouid alsa xn'ake a fe-;i inquiries. ,ffarn the, 'Better Buines urdIu 'èver, none'of that is mfy personal w-orry. My bair is w-hite sud it stays that va..I1w-an't even let mny ha[rçlresseý' give nme à blue These Doils Are Worth Real Money A rare treat, even for those accustomned to turning up sur- prises during visits ta the Smithi- sonian Institution -- or Uncie Sam's attic as it i2; sornetimes calied - were th-,ree echarrnýin- Swiss iuechanical doli>s recer1tly on view there. Each is e.qulipped with in1tri- cate rnýechan)ism arnazingly in- geniaus even lun today's agez of automaion. Týiey are alm-rost as large as children, about tbree- qua,ýrters life-size, and reýpresent an artist, a writer, and a lady mius,-ician payngan arg-an. IMade nearly' 200 years ago bySws watchmnakers Pierre Jaquiet-:Draz and bis son, Hlenri-Lou-is, they wereý lent to the United Staites for a shiort, firsýt trip t,) Amer- Prof. Edmod Droz, a fiith- generation descendant of the dollimakers and a professor of rnathemaircs and physics at Neu- chate]lScool of Mechanics, is accampnanyiý-ngthe dalis on their, Amierican tour. H1e is the only persý,on- autborized to aperate the miechanism that puts the automa- atic doIls through their paces,, As mighit be expected, thley are, bighl11y prized and neticuilously protcteud bcauuse ai their unique caatrand long bistory. H. wil put tw,-Oo'ofthem itbrougb their paces at frequent demion- stration periods each day ,ýbe- twecn 9 a.mn. and 4:30 p.m-i. The third bsbeen dmgeiand will need about1 100 bours ofi labor before it can operate agaiîn. At theýir first performance the,,r, on opening day, the>I lady musi- clan exhbbited poise an-d evident mnastery of ltb-century organ technique as ber hands moved up and dlown the keyboard, ber head and eyes iroyed, ber fin- gers prcssed down on the keys, and bier bosom rose and fell to shnuitlate bre-athing, writes Her- bert B. Nichols inte Chrisýtianý Science Monitor, 1The four tunes wbý,ich shte plays were composed before 1775. The "Wr-iter," a boy wthqui, pen and a fresbly filled inkpot, dips bis pen ini the fluid and writes severai.l nes ot script using biotbi capital and smrall let- ters. When in operating condi- tion the "ýArtist," also a boy in satin kniee breeches and velvet coat, drew four different pictures, .with a pencil on smnall cards, ,one of which depicts Louis XVI of France and Marie Antoinette. The dlolls performecd at th* French court sbortly befor% tii. French Revolution. They were built before and during the American Revolui- tioniary War. During the days of rinse. As for wrinkles -- well, wbat would Eleanor Roosevelt look like witbout the cbarrn and se.renity that age bas given her? Youth has its beauty.' Age also bas a cbarm a aI its ow-n. ComfortJ For Baby 84Z Babies Ceni be cool tius SÜM- mer - dress themi in these suitm. Be tbrifty -- use re-muaints. Seersucker, nylon, ligbtï cottoïR are gaod fabrics. Patteril 842S transfer; patteýru 6 morýth, 1 Yeair, 18 montb babies; directions. State isize. Send THIRTY-FIVE C EN T$ (stamps canuat be accepted, U34 postal note for safety) for ti-s- patte-,rn ta Leurs Wbeeler, Box L~ 123 Eighteentb St., New- Toronto, Ont. Prîut plainly A TT E R NUMBER, your NAMNE arid AD- DRESS. JUST OFF, THE PRESS! -,en&' now- for aur exciting, new- 1961 Needflecraft Catelog. Over 125 dlesigus ta, crochet, knit, sew-, emn- broider, quilt, weave - feshione, bomefuruisbings, toys, gifts, ba- zaar bits. Plus FREE - ins7truC- tions for six smnart veil caps. Hur- ry, send 25(',now-! -L fS GIRLS, BOYS,.- Chcasen ta r-ep sent theýir country in beacuty 1 n*ests around' fh. world. hre'Frenclh irlsdipa ter chr m'ý4l nP aris. L à f tt 1 ht are: Sirnone ýD-crly, who wi!I cor- pete in the Miss Univers? corls; ai cen r'a ed the. titie of miss, Europe, ad "k r'*e1y in ieMs International Bea uty Campý;hiti. - J" the French uphraval, they wer< taken to England and sol&. Movud tu Spaýin they were 1ost' jor abou 10years, until hey were found by agents of Na-. poleon, reasembled and ex- hibited in Paris. Thun foiowve& almnost a centur-y of travelsý around Europe befor they wera finally sold to the bMuseum aW' Neuchatel. According tuo Anmsador Blance, e2cli dol',is insured for $60,000 ami it' took considerabl&k persuasion on the part oif inf lu-. enitial Swiss citizens to persuade the miuseum to allow the do11g to make this short visit to the United States with Professor Droz "tû show the lotve oftii.1ý Swiss peoplelforAerc.