THE, D&/LY BRITISH WHICG, SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 14, 1908. I " Latest / Paris Fashions .Elaborately Embroidered Cloth and Velvet Gowns ° for Afternoon Receptions Popular Y This 'Season. "Old Rose Cloth. Gown. ! the present many v HE exaggeration fin fashions is displayed in besides the eccentric models. Colors and trimmings are so markedly con-| spicuous that the note of over-elabor tion and exaggeration is evident in even | the mogt apparently tunately there is a modification o first appallingly 3 which world threatened a few ficient that marked in effect still the woman of refined long time before ordering her winter out fit in any too lavish . preferring rather to wait until the fashions are more | definitely settled. | After all the excitement there has been, over the marked change in the clothes are assuming mere rational portions, and out of the chaos are being| many charming and that it is quite safe to prophesy mple gown eccentr the of womanki was flagrantly | prevails to make months s is unusual taste hesitate a manne tv | styles, ro { evolved becoming ideas, so a ---- ------ PA 0 Purpic Cloth and Velvet Gown. i for the moment the one-tone effect is {the most popular. Just how long it will continue to he for with the all black gown, which is extremel ly fashionable this it is almost essential to have a color introduced into the tr dressmakers attain the embroidery, others by the One of the smartect black cloth wus is trimmed with a' round braid in so is a question. seasan, Some imming. this by p cerise; this is on the waist only, and on the siseves and skirt ave lines of faney black 1, and, altforsh this dees not sound all attractive, thé resnlt is most strik- ing unusual. A touch of gold or silver woven into the plain round braid is extremely effective and oftens lightens appearance, such as is produced by the use of all black or one { calor, often been said, chooses the quite in quite an elaborate design: and 1 too sombre has conservative taste plain color, trusting to the contrast that be given in some other way, as in the folds of satin or velvet outlining the but, as £0 the ean | that w the next season opens a calm I yoke or strung in the belt, le will have state of affairs ned. Already the signs appear far mare rational and econ-| and se been latest de Satin Finish Gray Cloth Gown. EMBROIDERY OF VELVET LEAVES. Brocaded materials are gaining in fa- servative, while the too theatrical and grotesque are thrust far In truth, there are models that shions that ) and were quite sunple, I'o dictate an unal gard to any fa into the baeck-lare eare ground now wonderf most ayed are strange ye arie dig of t were po y few | years a at a mn is and this season any command is treated wi say that skirts are that styles pos tun absolutely plain skiets ible ext knows mod her tgment in oth far Fashionabl the most to Jdressmak ming r| Laces Froc S es Dab in order assurance--or redeiv be blesse\l with an can saf MAT two ort in wile she OR MORE whose Two Combi wh ing of the Cloth popula: and velvet while silk and cloth silk and r gether. Chiffon, lace, ne are also indlpdédtinithe category © terials velvet a r t and embroidery | { ma used Wwhi#h is another consideration broidering, to be taken dato both n then and it taste] does ithe braiding extend to terials. J¥ velvet is left is merely a mn individual ¢ which it shail b AX 3 1 ihe | used on the «¢ the plain, or vice versa, quest! for to Ive with ar overskirt waist or coat be m Skirt of ¢loth will de wi plain and the f of braiding. be of the overskit the nx Ss graceful will be spoiled who is | just how teur must realize of k ir sKirt, figure when du shoriening cit" without line, is chosen as the is an from underskirt the coat \ FASHION DETAILS e for Winter's ke KS. Variety of Tucks Must Be Chosen NW ora tucks she {which knows that there is nothing which wore aimost a< wide as a the folds ol th 1 ilty can be overcome, |the sleeves only, d yet the effe an entire cloth There are many new g and embroidery. The closely of cloth soutache is | than la combiuvation of cloth comparatively little of wai h need be employed. Made up or l with a deep yok ning, waist nor braid aud but warmer which has more of the is even ning gown of satin newer; br ing sleeves is rather smart, and the help to a for 0 of soutache the em centuate the desired slenderness | I des d bra sloth, ness, line and ip There are : re n of white te match of | i | le sleeve is really fashionable at pre Theatre Hoods. on dresses of rather ATRE jtucker is combined y worn in Paris, aud indeed they different kind of lace, 0. I HE ' 3 ich, more comfortable than hats,| | i i ' simple desig hoods are now quite gen- with a 13 they do not destroy the coiffure so wt. and they can also sposed of in the theatre. oman-has also come to| 1eeept the § appearing: without her] 3 after the theatre suppers. in the » sicuder abd do wore tha bast ) : : Bui turavis--that if she be in evening ress aud the occasion is a more or less For going out in the evening it other oceasious the hoods are most fas-| ; :. They are large and loose, and that set out from the Some of them a stiffening of crown or in front and fascinating in The sm € arefnlls we make the pat uy towid is. ne they not crush it. with Care. 2d by aronnd far around the gonaily i T askes hose who are ha ks made the French hoods was made of {two tdnes af bine--eiel and sapphire--the ligl Yota snd the deeper tone come & permanent $ + velvet, The front part of the hood is - made of sik, with a band of sable as a wround the face. The full crown vet. which is a puff of A pleated rullle of silk much back and front than on thei' a . 3 while the the at the bottom. i scant and Quaker gray taf . . 4 A piping This! Nis lining s : . , fancy cord makes a servicea Ling out from the} his One of diapha woman ory are ht Bie in taf nous guimpe or chem yas wise t impe those ave apparently curved, bein beneath material set on, are held | : v { by a { bodi of velvet colored ay uimpe wh wetive points of its defects. owe close to the face inlwith the heavier variety of | sds out so far that the reseithe dollar. A lining may be ithe shirred guimpe Heft transparent. cross ciremd may not seem i {0 the novice, hid AND SLEEVE ug trames the face, expert dress vaside NPE woman who js an in like thie shirred all the making it look too thin. in 3 € w i fiat crown, had Aland pleasing in the way it uside this a the front panel of the dress and fa lthe left side with 8 large sogetie, y mars an a etive and and designs in yest in the lighter materials AT EVERY WOMAN SHOULD KNOW O relieve the monotony of the plain lace guimpe, without which no gown n collar FIGURE 3-QUAINT OL arm OF SPRIGGED chitring r is gatnered rather finished under the top of the or sik Th . J ! i tive edge trimming. Rprizged or dotted|placed a stiff | | Ee » 3 Lo am CO ge gathered bag. | or combines as well as any other kind ani Sold tissue, with & buiton in the ace used for added wider nd the upper par } Chis is i better arrange u rose color taffeta' made ment and allows one to bave quite : oll Quaker bog-|and-graeeful curve to the fucker without nnaer The sash showa ance. the guimpe illustration, figure 0. is Jares vor, but are not so smart as the plain of | fabrics embroidered in large or small be, An entire elaborately of velvet et is as the case may of the softest desigus, braid br ad gown cloth is design same shade, perfectly by ywest of silk cord. ' ned in the brocade or terial, and it would seem necessary to spend the on the hand embroidery ts are so similar in the reneral appearance, but it is the desire ail women of the present day who I be thought well gowned to have handwork as possible iu their with a the emhroidered the 1 leaves in exactly tons ou pattern fnished the! Pliqué or the nar same effect embroidered ms be scarcely money the rest on k ne ng lin is slender-| to ired ra ids, & of nto s mndh 1tfits There nothing eccentric or conspic {nons in the smarter, newer models of the that are now being exhibited of sort just deseribed. There is a hint of draped folds rather than the too close effects that have of late excited '80 much comment, and even the most se could not but admire the lines is gowns Sent, 8 care critic | : : t {quaint tucker effect is being introduced of the perfectly simple cloth gown that, The: made in on the princess order, has of 1 enotigh drapery to do away with rhe too "igharply! defined of the figure p Sty lines aud its upper edge is| Whether wade up in plain satin, chiffon velvet aw Lb de, the design is the same, {the eolprs iatrodueed ovly in the waist and the dall effect lightened by the white yoke and sleeves of lace, tucked pet or chiffon. There are embroidered silks, satins and crépe de Chine that ean be used also for this model 10 good advan- tage, and light and dark colors are equally effective Frobroidered bands are fashionable for eloth or velvet 'gowns. and color is intro- dueed into them in many different ways and with satisfactory effect. It is inter- esting to see how a touch of green, bin eerige or yellow worked into a dull wono- tone will lighten it, or how a thread of gold or silver or sharply contrasting black will entirély change and transform a model gown that bas been ulbecoming There is certainly no excuse whatever this season for a woman to be usbhecom ingly gowned, for with the-ceixzed trin- mings and the white yoke almost au; eolor is possible, as it need not be pear the face, ' This Season's Glorified Turban. NE $f the most striking fur toques seen this year is a glorified turban of black lynx, fitting well down over the head and of a slight'y elongated shape, The frame has a vertical brim, but it is as deep as the crown of the turban, so does not show except to give 8 pew arn fashionable outline to the hat. At tk left side of the brim. just in frout, is de of black satin string, or Bn id eff ee- le cocka centre. From under this cockade starts tia long black quill of nnusual lormationa. It is made up of two or three feathers, a deep the upper one of the usual type and the it anes of a more feathery appear: The cockade, or tight, fiat rosetre, novel gives considerable style to the toque and makes it a strietly tailor egeation, while tha quill provides the dash fecessiry (0 {carry a hat of rather befvy lines. omder steus al