TRIP AROUND THE WORLD Published Weekly by the A Racy Letter to Be Whig. SIGEL ROUSH. The morning we left Constantinople was dull and lowering. Rain had fall- en the night before and converted the filthy docks into ,one - vast "sea of black, slippery mud. Through this ted of mire stirred to a mushy con- sistency by the incessant water-front Jaffe we waded first to the custom use where the usual tip passed our baggage , withont being opened and then to the ship: Once aboard the Bregenz, a beautiful new steamer of the Austrian Lloyd line, we watched feom our place of security on the up- per deck 'the mad, surging, struggling crowds helow, Camels, those wonder- ful human beasts of burden that carry on their backs anything from a sew- ing 'machine to a billiard table, add- el ta the general din and noise by shoutibg warnings at the top of their voices to all who. happened to get in their way. Vendors of rugs, oy beads and Oriental bric-a-brae, beg- gars, dogs and goats all mingled to- ther in one motley, dirty crowd. Fiver and anon a breathless tourist would emerge from this miscellaneous moving mass 'and, with hat awry and clothes bespattered with muck, make a mad dash for the ship. As the time for sailing draws near the hedlam in- creases, which even the shrill warning whistle of the Bregenz fails fo entire ly drown. But with the slipping of the hawser the vessel swings away from the dock and, after rounding historical Seragho Point, heads for the Marmora Sea. We soon leave Constantinople with its beautiful Mosques , its picturesque bazaars, its « Holwing Dervishes, its impressive Selamlik, its dirty streets and its two hundred thousand. mangy dogs far in the rear. We turn and take a last look at ghis city of in consistencies and complex phases and behold ! the sun breaks through the threatening clouds and transforms once more the city of mud that «we have just left into a vision of beauty and splendor. With this last dissolv- ing view the curtain drops on a series of wonderful pictures the vividness of which ean never fade. A few hours steaming brings us into classi¢ territory for we are now ap- proaching the famous Hellespont of the ancients. . Late in the afternoon we enter this narrow: channel which conpects the Marmora and Aegean seas. As we pass the ancient site of Sestos the legend wof Hero and Lean- der is recalled, for here until that hapless night when both found watery graves, the ardent youth was wont to swim the swiftly flowing channel to meet the object of his affection. We are.also in: close proximity to the Land of 'Homer. Indeed the plains of ancient Troy are plainly visible from the deck of the Bregenz, while other places of historical interest are point- (time to time as our,good ship sails along amid the gathering twilight. The early morning finds us in the placid waters of the Aegean Sea, steaming among the islands of the Greelan Archipelago. The voyage is most. enjoyable, and as the ship about midday turps sharply to the right and makes for the harbor of Pireus we reluctlantly go below to collect our Inggage preparatory to landing. We anchor aoa one hundred meters from the dock and are immediately sur eounded by a scoré of row hoats man- ned by native Greeks who clamorous- ly solicit our patronage. Into one of these boats we step from the - gang- plank and are soon landed at the cus- tom house. The perfunctory examina- tion over we engage a carriage and are driven along the six miles of anci- ent road, to the capital of modern Greece, Athens Of To-Day. Athens of to-day ofiers to the visitor all the comforts and conveniences of any city of its size in Europe. It has wide,. well paved streets, good hotels and pensions, and its Jocal transpor- tation service answers all the require ments that "the tourist could desire. The 'many gardens and parks afford, with their numerous rustic benches, comfortable lounging places where one may baslke in the genial rays of the autumnal sun and enjoy the perfume of orange blossoms to his heart's content. A knowledge oi English or French will be a sufficient means of communication to make one's wants known without the services of a guide or interpreter. The ancient ruins which are free to the public and grouped within a comparatively limited space will be fod most accessible. A number of well appointed restaurants where European cooking is provided supplies all the wants of the inner man at prices that are within the reach of all. Surrounded as it is by the picturésque Attica mountains, Modern Athens at once becomes an ideal city alike for the students, the tourist and the seeker after health, In this subtropical land the autumn and early winter season is most charming, the days being bright and warm and the nights cool and bracing. Of courde the most interesting ob- jects of Athens are the ancient ruins, the most celebrated examples of which are those located on -the rock-like fortress known as the Acvopolis. It was the Pelasgians, according to tra- dition, who first built upon this mas- sive rock, and it was they who leveled the 'summit and increased the inacces- sibility (6f its sides by adding thereto impenetrable perpendicular walls. Tt may be reasonably supposed that this rock was suggested as a site for a city because' of the natural defensive ed out by the obliging captain [rom qualities which it afiorded. It then Why Christie's Biscuits are the best constituted the whole of the inhabited city, and here the early resided and ruled the entire community. Here, too, the principal sanctuaries were lo- cated, and for several generations the habitations of the founders oi Athens did = not extend beyond the walls of the fortress of the Acropolis. But as the community increased in size and importance the vity spread to the adjacent hills so that later the whole of the environs became included in the domain of the Athenican rulers. The Acropolis now was given over to the seat of Athen"s most celebrated dei- ties, at the same tife preserving the nature of a fortress to which the peo- ple could repair in time of danger. The wealth and i rtance of the Grecian capital now n to excite the envy of other nations and accord- ingly one expedition after another was uddertaken against it. In about 480 B.C. the Persians . successfully stormed the fortress, burning and de- stroying many of the beautiful build- ings. Other nations made conquests of Athens in the centuries that fol lowed, "hut each time the Greeks re- gained their city and rebuilt their ruined temples and fortifications more elaborately than before. And so the Acropolis has withstood the onslaughts of many a hostile na- tion 'till to-day the beauty and per- fection of her ruins 'are perhaps the most celebrated of any in the whole world. g let us ascend the winding path that leads to the Propylaea that magnifi- cent group of nn that stand at the gate of the Acropolis and over: look the Aegean Sea. This forest of imposing columns is constructed en- tirely of Pentelic marble and was be- gun in B.C., 437, and opened to the public five years later. The Propylaea though over two thousand yeirs old, still preserve the heauty of their sym- metrical proportions and seem as graceful and airy as though imbued with immortal youth. Their simple and noble arrangement is most im- pressive, and the portico of six Dorie colums can be seen distinctly from the shoves of the Aegean Sea. This one-time dwelling of Aga, together with the temple of Nike or wingless victory on the right form the erown- ing glory of the western facade of the Acropolis. Undoubtedly the Hest known of all the Grecian ruins in the\Qarthenon situated perhaps a bude meter back of the Propylaea. This inimi- table masterpiece of antiquity has proved the eternal despair of the architects of all ages, and of all cen- turies. The Parthenon--or dwelling of the virgin---is the most glorious and far famed ruins of not only the Acro polis, but of all the \antiquities of Greece. It is the first object that greets the vision from whatever direc tion one approaches Athens. Under the supervision of Pheidias, the most skilful architects of all the Greeks were charged with the erection on this magnificent temple. 1t is not certainly known when it was completed, but the colossal statue of 'Athens which it contained dates from the vear 437 B.C. The building itself is all of Pen- telic marble - and consists of eight columns on the east and west fronts and seventeen on either flank. More than half of these noble shafts of marble are in position and support- ing a part of the massive roof, These columns rest directly on a stylobate and consist of twelve arums or sec tions rising to a height of thirty-four feet and three inches in diameter, 'gradually diminishing in size .till at the summit they have decreased by about two- ninths of their dimensions at the floor. The peculiar architec- tural 'feature of this temple is the ac: count taken by the ancients of the ef- fect of light in rendering certain parts of the structure apparently out of proportion. By actual measurement the interval between the corner col- umn and those adjacent is less than the distance between the others. This angle column is also less in diameter and height than those forming the sides. The object in this discrepency is to overcome the diminishing effect of the surplus of Jight which the cor- ner column naturdlly receives. In oth- er parts of the structure the light fac- tor is also scientifically considered the result being that to. the eye the team- ple is strikingly perfect. The stella or inner inclosure contained the statue of the goddess and was reached through | a' large gate in the eastern portico, | while from the west was a gate lead- ing to a compartment where the treasure was kept. The walls of these compartments are fot the most part in position, although during a seige by a hostile power a bomb ignited a quantity of powder stored here causing an explosion ' that rent one side of the stella in twain. The Erechtheion. To the north of the Parthénon and near the battlements of this gigantic rock stands the last of the group of celebrated and beautiful ruins- that ts out style to show an underslip of lace. and the odd moon and crescent PHOTC BY JORL The gorgeous gowns seen in the various restaurants offer interesting suggestions to women visitors in New York. These luxurious costumes are carefully plumed hats which, with the decotlete corsages, arc most picturesque. Such a gown is shown here and is made of pale green satin bined with cream lace and green and silver embroidery. of green chiffon and the skirt is slashed in the new The hand: embroideries in silver and green is FEDER after theatres are studied and are matched by com- The *dleeves are surpliced ecclesiastical contrasting fabrie--in this case rich cream threads are done on bands, designs are very effective. ancient Greece, Spread floating. memeries of the splendor of out, to the himself popular by liberality. his justice In grateful and remembraycee north, beginning at the very base of the : Acropolis, lies. -modern Athens, while in close proximity to the east and west and south, scattered in gen- erous profusion, are acres and acres of ancient ruins. Below, on the sloping side of the rock, is a semi-circular excavation provided with rows of ris- ing marble seats, all of which face a crescent shaped paved enclosure or stage. It is the theatre of Dionysius, the cradle of art apd the scene of the productions of he masterpieces of Aeschylus, Sophocles, Euripides and Aristophanes; One can even now in faney see those Greek, tragedians stride majestically across that marble stage with the air and mien of an ancient god. The hills resound with their sonorous voices and the enthusi- astic salvos of the audience give an- swering echoes back. A little farther to the right are the ruins of the Odeon of Herodes Atti- cus, another public hall or theatre, but more especially devoted to musi cal productions. Unlike the theatre of Dionysius this structure was under cover. It had a seating capacity of over six thousand and was adorned with statues and, other works of art, ranking fit among the most ornate of ancient buildings. Still father away one looks down upon the Hill of Mars, or the Areopagus, now little more than a bare rock with only scant traces of the temples which it formerly contained. Here in the open air sat the tribunal of Areopagus, an institution that goes back to prehis- ly of these traits, this monument fomb io him in A.D. 114. At the foot of large caves, have been the crates was confined and whore he died. the Athenians raised this hill are three which are believed to prison in which So- I The Temple Of Jupiter. Turning to the irom the away, the majestic columns temple of Jupiter, among whose ruins a score of young Greek boys are gaged in a game of football, present- ing one of the ronisms with which one is continually being confronted cars, covered with Greek letters, coun vey one io thg ruins, oyer two thou- sand years old, while forty horse-pow- or automobiles dash by and the warn- ing gongs awaken lofty ceilings uncanny and wholly out of place. arc lamp Grecian portico, and so the dim tant past is continually grating harsh- | against one fairly gasps at the emotions these comparisons evoke. rising mile the cast we seo plain, a quarter of a of en- many striking anach- in Athens. Electric echoes amid the arcades that seem An from a magnificent dis and swings the practical present till But the panorama from the Aeropo lis would not be complete did it include served and, beautiful Standing clear the. level plain at not fair Theseus, thal best pre io my mind, the most of all the Grecian temples. and classieal on our fect this, pure cul For seven years 1 suffered with what phy- siciaus called a "Water Tamer', 1 would get 80 bad at times that I could hardly endurethe pain, | + ¢ould neither sit, stand, nor lie down. Hypoder- mics of Morphia had to be given @ me or 1 could g never have borne the pain. Many ~ pliysicians {reat- el me but my cure" seemed hopeless, and my friends hourly ex- pected my death, It was during oue of these very bad spelis that a family. friend brought a box of Froftutives" to the Louse, After cmuch persuasion I commenced 'to take then, but | was so bad that it was : wil abfin hata Th should be in every house Yours very truly, Through fhe whole country around Enterprise, Ont, talking ebout this Wonderful cure, By their i eae the ! lidueys, "Fruit-a-tives' cured Mrs, Fenwick when the doctors said cuitld not be operated on and was doomed to die, he "Fruit-a-tives" cured Mrs, Fenwick when all eise failed. Try them for your trouble. 25c. und soc. a box, at dealers or sent postpaid oa receipt of price. Fruit-a-tives Limited, Ottawa, = ° fa hold. Famous in Song and Story In introducing Mr. Samuel Weller to the readers of "Pickwick Papers," Dickens mentions that the "aforesaid S. Weller Esq." was engaged in blacking boots, and remarks that they used "Day & Martin's at the Great White House Inn." &Martin's Polishes are a'most as well known as the Tower of lonion or West- minster Abbey. «JUST OUT" ii the newest and best of Day & Martins famous polishes, Ask your dealer for it. Day CHAS. GYDE 23 SL Urs. Xavier St, Montreal. Agent for Canada. 4 Sugars of this well-known Brand are put up in pack- ages of a size convenient for family use. Bags 20 lbs. Boxes, about 5 Ibs. Extra Granulated Paris Lumps Equal to, if not better, than anything produced. Ask your grocer for them and refuse substitutes. Manufactured by The Canada Sugar Refining Co., Ltd, MONTREAL. ib 000000000 "STOVES." We carry in stock one of the largest as- sortments of Cooking Stoves, Ranges and Heaters in the city, and invite. you to ex- amine before purchasing. See the OOD BISCUITS are made by more than one or two manu- facturers, and can be baked from any one of a few excellent brands of flour, but the Christie way is different. "The best millers in Canada ship us samples of their flour twice a year, or oftener. We test the samples and select the best brands for our purpose. We blend the brands which we have proved best-- keep on blending and testing by actual baking until we get a dough good enough to sustain, or better, the Christie reputation, Every ounce of raw material is carefully analysed before it can pass into the mixing room. handiwork of the ancient Greeks most impressive. | Pleasing and perfect, the temple of Theseus becomes an architectural poem full of majesty and pathos that reéaech- | es the inexpressible depths of the soul, giving rise to reverics that car- in front |ries one iar into the fields of fantasy | hills of + the {and imagination. { and the Museien,| Our ten days' stay in Athens is all bearing traces of ancient habitation. | tao short, but our passage ie engaged On 'he summit of the Museion rises |t5 Smyrna and the ship has cast the monument of Philpappos, a grand- | anchor at Pireue. son of Antochos IV, who rendered | gy. "Therapin," of he Xorih Gor man Lloyd linc is~a small boat, clean | and presentable cnough, but the Ae | toric times. It was here, too, that example of the Saint Paul preached that famous ser- mon beginning, "Men of Athens, [ perceive that in all things ye are too superstitious," or, to more accurately translate the ending of the sentence, "Ye are very religions." Across the valley appear of the Acropolis the Nymphs, the Pynx crown the summit of the Acropolis. It is known as the Erechtheion and dates from the fifth century beiore Christ. It was dedicated to FErech- theus, & somewhat indistinct person- age of Greek mythology, but usually concedod to have been a ward of Ath- ens. This temple is rather more in- teresting on account of its elegance and mixed style of architecture than for its grandeur and simplicity. The eastern portion has six lonie columns and is a regular pronaas leading to the temple of Athena Plias or protec- | tress of the city. In this space was the ancient seated figure of the goddess, | Logethee with the sacred lamp, which was always kept burning. The morth- ern vestibule contains four lonic col- lumns in front and an equal number | behing. This portico is not on a level ,| with the one on the east and its col- {umns have a greater height and dia- weter than the latter. In other ways is "Art Garland" and "Art Treasure' Heaters. The "HAPPY HOM IZ" Range has a large ventilated oven, handsomein design, econ- omical in fael and a perfect baker. ELLIOTT BROS. 77 PRINCESS ST. gean was a trifle woubled the night we went aboard, so when we reached Smyroa the next afterncon we felt no |e regret 10 bid her a fond farewell. But one's misery after all, only mea- | . sured by comparison, for after a stay 1 . of twenty-four hours at "the city of | figs and raisins," which place pre- | The Leaders The best sugar, pure, sweet milk and delicious fresh creamery butter, new cream -- these pure ingredi- ents mixed with our blend of flour, in the Christie scientific way, yields that delightful, appetising crisp- | thig structure is not symmetrical, but | possesses architectural features that { belong to modern times rather than to that period . with 'which it is contem- { poraneous. On the south there 'is an { advanced section called the portico of | sents no especial attractions to the | | tourist, we embark for Alexandria on | the Imperial Trajan, of | Roumanian Express line, and the me- the Royal | | mory of this thirty-six hours' journey | ALWAYS, Everywhere in Canada, of Lights Sines 1861. lis too painfully fresh in my mind to { permit at this time of oxtended com- iment. 1 have sailed the Mediterran- | | pan' on divers occasions and my every | experience on the "Middle Sea" has, berotofore been most - agreeable, but | this reomt trip not only upset all my } oi this usually placid | my digestive ap- | | the Caryatides, so named on account v lof the row of statues, somewhat lar- | ger than life size, which support =a {section of the supér-imposed rool. | These figures bear a sort of capital {on their heads aud add a picturesque- |uess and grace which harmonize and soiten the sterner aspecis of the near by Parthenon.' The views from the Acropolis are most superb. On three sides the hori- zou is formed by the blue peaks of the mountains of 'Attica, while the fourth presents the Aegean sea, dot- ted with numer islands that lie peacefully in the placid waters like T= ness and delicate flavor which has made Christie's Biscuits favored aboveall othertable dainties from ocean toocean. Yes, Christie's are the best biscuits money can buy, yet they cost no more than just ordinary biscuits. Sold by Grocers everywhere Christie, Brown & Company, Limited, Toronto 1 want every chronic rhenmatie to throw | away ull medicines, all liniments, all slasters, and give MUNYON'S RHEUMA- TISM REMEDY a trial. No matter what your doctor may Ss no matter what your friends may say, no matter Tow prejudiced you may be against all adver- tised remedies, go at once to your drus- st a a bottle of the RHEUMA- TISM REMEDY. If it fails to give satis- faction,] wilt refond your money. --Munyon emember this remedy contains no sal- teylie acid, no opium cocaine, worphine or or (Bddy's | Matches The Most previous ideas body of water, but paratus underwent, as well, the same } harrowing process. So, with the land- ing at Alexandria, let us pause for al time, for my thoughts, like my meals | other barmful drugs. It is put up under | op, the Imperial Trajan, are at pre- the guarantee of the Pure Food ang Drug | nt hard priest and retain. Sor sate by all Grvseists. Price, 28c., ! _SIGEL ROUSIL Perfect | Matches You Ever Struck! Sey |