i A THE DAILY BRITISH WHIG, THURSDAY. OCTORER 9, ot Shanters ingly with pearls, as does jet with steel Hy {the Taw-o The Chan prim wigs jdouni € tulle. already troduced "charmingly in the very simple lace that drops the coat and mark the suit foe backed hy =a year's model They generally show sbipep The brim hb LONG COATS ARE MADE OF I THICK BUT LIGHTWEIGHT MATERIAL. lopg 'oats 80 necessary this models as rhinestones |BLACK OPAL NEW BIRTH- STONE FOR OCTOBER intended for birthday] GIRLS. N gifts is a much more simple mat- OWADAYS or than it ~ remarked the City jewelry is to follow the iz pleating of below the coat closing. which fastens with a few buttons oulz, f black velv and Leocade "mate is used for the| """ he new damask as is called choosing of for it afternoon tailored suits, eyen comprises the whole costume, beats bined with far lapels and cuffs. In thei, 'A] they ap yellow tones it is of indescribable rich Is are called , and has the advantage of looking] tells rt ski a re ont ~ with any Skirt satin, velvet, cloth} | mon those short and] HE outfit have been grea in eve; i Com-4 used to be, one has to do | improved by | the néw materials, which are fully® light in weight, though quite thick. These mate pean de marmotte, peau de peau de souris, and resemble baired furs in effect. Then there is the new idrap velours, which has a cast. i Chinchilla . cloth makes smdrt exactly the correct for th. . gem well . And pow it or chiffgn. and . . al Taupe seems to be the favorite color inithe gems you may wish tg buy, velvet some relieved with tout' of white comes] designs of jewels f for all the months." " :11t bears po resemblance inew standard list of birthstones, which! each is a pleasurable and easy task to decide on a present set with! for the ° suits as well as in furs. Navy blue or black|jewelry shops are replete with exquisite tered te fc extending over short chiffon, the however be [below an overdress of embre sland 1 the same wf Tithe upper part round meshed gq 'generally been associated with i his particular, piece rather that ° lace sed rm tha t-Bae Upper part the-budice of the arm to form mesh and an outline flor u 4 slight toueh of gold lace pg out most effectively the colo a gown. Ome shades of red has only a ti lace, hut it gives character to the entire gown. Almost all the soft laces | mu h used for jabots and w t tri this aotumn 'shadow and they are far in the lead of jar laces. Nothing good if wants frills or as one dees for the front of a bodice. one of the new iy vest of gold sade of termed made of are other popa- is one ofteft | 80 cascades, -~ J BAGS INSTEAD OF BASKETS "RY gorgeous indeed is the newspaper Vise which is taking the place of the i waste paper basket for the living {room. The bag, whic is suspended from laces Dold a substantial book screwed into a cornice, Maliue laces are good, too, buf they are iso very soft that frequently one cannot get the effect that a sitdow only a little beavier, will lace, | Bohemian and Venetian Al Black Hat, with Chantilly Lace Brim, Crown Draped with Velvet, Two Aigrettes. Musou Alix. Photo Copyright. 1012, he Rentlinger Exelnsics Copyright, 1912, New York Herald Company and aigrettes . creatious circled with the usual folded ribbon, ex- OW that N have been "bibited in America it De seen that the master designers have changed the silhovette enough that d oJnst winter's clothes gre impossible for the follow fashidu's the duly imported landed the fashionable windmill back, trimming this year and two as is so-much of The pending on its effective shape is pinly to! placed toward the the second hat, $0 in lieu of than they trimming, is slightly wider behind in fronf, and this is acceated by 2 woulon who would trend. The early hats, 'fashionable models curlons copies of the oddities of the enties" and "eighties" in shape, sather like those of the I models. The noticeable features about them are the tendency toward smaller sized crowns, and in the' more tailored hauls a reaction toward small shapes. But there : 'Shanter crown, placed in both small and Jarge hats, as an exception to the usual ,small crown, but the bowl shape of last season is wot seen, In the five models here given the shapes are varied, but the foundation material ¢ 0 each Is of black velvet--~thpugh in all imported the combining materials and toimmings vad 'are in greater proportions than the vel ah a a Ep fret. The firat hat, the right the hat having a crown of glace tilly lace brim, has the 'all crown en-, «ilk, shading from red to black, is one of rettes placed at the back he poke riain of the ultra- is recurring with al seem outside bonnet that to be ce persistency in the newest models "sev- and Is especially becoming to certain ery are feminine types of fuces. This ove has a novel arrangement in the facing, the white the upper brim. black velvet (fe summer velvet facing the lower, are only taught together at intervals, and hang slightly apart... Placed like an tiara] the aigrette hides the crown from the front + view, and at the base black velvet ribbon] ihled into looms ix laid flat on the brim hie fourth an exaggeration of the bias fold that appeared on the brim this summer. Here many folds are superi imposed, d the crown wreathed in mile; thé AE only is of black velvet. On the | ¢ row of hats the left is one the small rolled turbans of the many Here the brim is velvet faced the of the narrow 'crown are red with the new of banding is a soft is single edge yw sides type with a shirred Chan: 4 0 oF 2h I'he outside edges of the facings | Black Velvel, with Paradise ornament or only] Black Velvet Under Brim, White Velvet Over Brim, Trimming. Maison Alls. Photo Copyright, 1912, by Reutlinger Exclusive Copyright, 1912, New York"Herald Company | -- Photo Copyright. 1912, by Reutlinger Exclusive Copyright, 1912, New, York Herald Company Aimost Covered with White Winged Band and Ornament. Maton Anx. Photo Copyright, 1012, by Rentlidger Exclusive Copyright, 1912, New York Herald Company Red and Black Glace Taffeta Crown, Veivet Crown, Black Velvet Velvet Brim, Large Poppy. ruses awwy. Photo Copyright, 112, by Reutlinger Faelusive Copyright, 1012, New York Herald Company The birthstones for October are the idescent opal and the beautiful tours | maline, rivals in color as well as for pop- nlarity. The tourmaline is becoming bet- The [4 the! drop | then prune Axi: Inhlia, come and vernulion the reds, magenta,) models into the bright tones, shape, though being the favorite shoulder seam has been added to the looser | Khaki and Gobelin blue are used for li 'styles. Many + semi-fitted, but i contrasting well with dark trim- ter known and more widely used and ad- Uitted silhone a different Taupe has bright shamrock mired each succeeding year. The opal, {from that of even a few seasons ago, magenta, flame despite the bad lock tradition which still Black combines also with clings to it, is in ever' growing demand. bright green: blue with; light! "If you wish to make to your chum an with emerald green and white. appropriate birthday present," continued the striking color con-| the City Girl, "nothing could be possibly. at the Principal openings. more than jewelry set with ------ meg her birthstone; and as her birthday, you RHINESTONES JEWEL SET say, comes in October, will you buy her MAKE EVENING GOWNS jus opal or a tourmaline?' SPARKLE. i One of the delights of the season is & HINESTONES are the féature par black . oval shaped' opal 'mounted on a tailored loose coats of mannish cut. sleeves in all these are of ir loose sleeve the ind orange this hall | colors, tte is quite one | mings trimming, or sul i phur yellow he- | green cause of the very general adaptation ol the high, darge waist line. | These counts button up or are made so {they can be buttoned at will up about the { throat. Buttons ave very decorative | Often crystals of varions {silver as in one of these, mother of pear! inset into halts of steel. | | Of the two Paris coats photographed: here one is moge fitted than the other, In! {the loose coat the lapels mre broad and the collar and cuffs are of the fashion-' able striped velvet. The waterial is pean | de moutown, khaki colored, and the buttons are amber Set in shiver, The fitted model, ibuttoning up against the thrGat, has a berty or full gray, These trasts noted are most acceptable colors are set ir or, of all of the evening pendant of gold carved in the form of fine and their pretty glitter sea weed, tinted in delicate shades of red ierever it ean possibly | 404 brown enamel. The sheen on the * {deep blues and greens of the opal make {it Appear as a spot of the glorious sea | among the sea weed. excellence trimmings, introduced {bud lodgment. All of the metal trimmings are leaders] Caught Together at Intervals, 'Matson Alctay. Black Velvet, Covered with Layers of Doubled Tulle, Maison Alix, Photo Copyright, 1912. by Reutli inger Exrlusive Copyright, 1912, New York Herald Compary | their own, both in the real and | Those in the distinctly pointed {especially good, Milan {of the season and many {it are shown in comparatively inexpen imitation [is really 'a shapely affair, and crowding papers into it does not destroy its sym. ver favorite metry. To make the most popular type the newspaper bag, get three woodea hoops twelve inches in diameter and, tak- sive laces, Mechlin, d'Ale ing one of them for the base of the re. i Valenciennes and Cluny are all adapts floor it with heavy cardboard to the present styles, and Irish crochet is covered with material like the bag proper, still in vogue, although by so which is a half yard wide, and a yard long many rivals, | strip of brocaded silk or satin or of | printed linen, shirrigyover the hoop. At its upper edge this bag is shirred over a ond hoop and from that extends up- ad baud of embroidered plain atin, rendered additionally substantiatby {a lining of buckram and a facing of plain and other conventional- #itk." This band by the outlined with a heavier third hoop, to which Is attached the broad thread. The old fashioned darned net £ | ribbons by wh recalled in some of the new show embroidered geometri While fabric designs are is ano modifications of of point ble | ceptacie, pressed There is a wide range of choice in the class designated which borrow a little here there from distinct laces whole, both Pretty and Oriental laces are especia baving scroll-like ined loosely a8 novelties, and a little ®e and s ward a bre is held in place designs hire ich the receptacle is suspend- laces that! ed from the cornice. All the seams and | the various parts must be and for this purpose flat, designs, | the joinings of laces are important and! never out of fashion as accessories to! narrow guimpe tinsel or silk may be dress, this they. will be_ out {used, or one may box plait narrow ribbon shone by the metallic laces, whic nr one |Mto a tiny filling and cateh it on with of its distinctive features In pattern invisible stitches . ! they follow many of the designs of the! The ond model in newspaper bags fabric laces, besides having that lis made with four hoops, and the big puff are peculiar to themselves. Gold lace ix of silk, nde priated Knpen so rich in combination with the colors! comes between two stiffeped broad bands pow coming into fashion that it probably lof Mand worked material, the lower one will hold first the rumors! being floored a: in the first instance,: Of that silver was first of Fash-|course, receptacles cateh more or lion's favorites Tu this A lovely [less dust add in time become grimy, but evening gown has a deep pointed goldithey may be cleaned by the same experts lace flounce on an apricot satin skirt just who do over silken lampshades, neatly covered, in season se some satin, bro or place despite to be the these oH line. aces, fringes, bandings, garnitures, ail- i ut gS, & "If my birthday happened to be in the i, silver, gun metal, steel or] " vi Tn Imonth of October," rapid the City Girl, | all combined. These were never more in| : . 'and I were to choose my own present sequent, and the rich imported designs are black 1 ld be my first choice | : y » = tenptations sdeed. that black opal would be my first ¢ Cordelidres are used | : i p 1 nd set-| again for catching up draperies on skirts) {for besides its - beautiful color a i {or corsages, and the wide, flat passerien- | iterfe cord. ending in a single enormously long, flat ecclesiastical tassel is the height of novelty, These tasselied passemen- terie ornaments either in black or tiusel or the self colors also are set on corsages or to lift draperies, and a shower of such GOLD AND SHADOW LACES. 'tassels gives a touch of coguetry. The! ACES of the filmy sort are to the fore jeu half Jara ide braids in plain Her-| this season. 'At a time when softness er ite aherron ptt ath wei] iy ce vepnoe nai tbrin x fo ov] ders, for hats of for the panels of dresses. | S*ntia) PEAT Tacs should be of a quality to There is nothing newer than the noveity blend well with the materials they adorn. serpentine braids, especially those 18 black Now that drapery is so important & gowns it is most small white cloth collar, and fhe slanting n I belt effect makes it a very becoming coat |V'°rs, {for a stout figure. | Made of the new velvet cloth in navy bie, i& very correct example of this winter's tai. lored suit as to"material, cut of teat and| iskirt, with the fur collar that may be' { turned up about the throat, is here shown. | The cutaway effect is the peculiar feature lof all tailored suits, or skirts, when (drapery is not used. This seems to Fieserved for the thin woman and on all of' the coats when the long belted or the new, | bloused cout is wot used. "The cord and | tassels seen on this model are a distinctive, | feature of both tailored suits and gowos (alike. The same type of button is used jon suits as on one of the coats, a truncated | bail shape of gun metal with a pearl in- set. Round ball shape. buttois, much {smaller in sige, trim the cuff, which is {oddly set into if. i i In the extreme models of tailored suits {there ace two unushal shapes in the Wt of gol scarce. Old Mother Earth is yielding $0 few. now that the possessor of a black {opal will own ao prize of great 'worth in not 4 great number of years" be and white, Novelty ribbazine trimmings are diy tinetly charming, but it must be explained | {for the unenlightpued that they are em part of the fashivoable important that any waterial used in their construction should have hat pliable : quality that lends itself to graceful lines. est imports, One has a curious (ulness {broideries, ornawests and loug IAssels | 4 cory elever use is made of lace ou some made by a pleat or seam taken at the Made of the narrow silk tape, SIBPT Plalk or (no fecigomgd. skirts. Just below the hips which ends between the hips nd the of crinkied, this being ased most effestively drapery there is a flounce of lace vary: kuees, giving an Hdd fulness. The other; {for embroidering ou pet. Formerly this ling from eight inches to double fu has a Huted Goanie from the knees. Above, | was. used solely for mourning purposes. oiqih . according 10 the finish of the the tunic is canght up into u drapery in {but now it is aduirably incorporated i810 okirt, This floance has scarcely any ful fromt which gives the same fulness at'many of the new bandings done in C0l0f peg: indeed, no lace ounces are full but! the sides as ia the model just described. either with or without beads or tinsel pape perfecily straight. A gown shown! At the back the extra fulness iy laid inte! To insure the effect and lessen the weight 4¢ one of the openings had » scant flounce! the belt by stvéral shallow box pleats, not everything possible is made on a Del of Bohemian lace above the festoon and | deep enongh tv give any special fulness. {foundation aud the wew Persian and Bul ypother Lelow it, the ilk showing between | Both these skirts, wo mock admired, bad gavin styles show a preference for the for about the width of the wpper flounce. | the mark of the best Pari designers. dull colors of myrtle green, amethyst, oid | Another gown of green crépe charmeuse Pleats and box pleats appear in wany of crimmon, faded bluse and burnt orange in had the drapery of the skirt carried diag- the Paris model skits, bul do sot inter-|exquisite tone harmouieh. Black Veuise onaily downward from the right side, lace fess. uith Che ulin outlire except Whe they handings have spuces of Bass embroidery oilowing the lige of the silk, over which wearer They fall Bead This lace an an wit to {ting such stofies will soon be extremely : MET Sa M-- S ---- 1