HE wonderful color contrasts and confbinations that the French designers have charmed us with this season. would seem to have regulated style and cut of the new models to a secondary consideration. In evening gowns, however, there is such & marked difference in cut, which, though not noticeable perhaps at a first glance to the casual oblerver, is very interesting t5" those who are ready to decide on evening dresses for this winter. In the first place tralns are added almost every elaborate dress model Trains of course were "worn last winter, | but were nice little pointed affairs or the novel one-sided kind that attracted atten tion simply because they had not "been | seen on gowns for several years. Bat the | train of to-day is a much more complic ated | dress detall, because it is trimmed, draped, bisected, tied and contains much individ uality, aiding the silhouette, and seeming wv @nstord® oftcome of the drapery which forms part of every recent jmported dress | model. The most curious of all these different styles of train are those where the skirt seems to be made of a single wide breadth of the material swathed across the body in folds gnd drapedjup and] eaught into lovely draperies either below the knees or looped up toward the back line to the back. breadth after this drags over i happens to be left and the effect what bewildering at first to the con- servative mind, Nevertheless, done with -unerring French taste, it must be ad- mitted both charming and fashionable. The two pointed train of this year differs from that of last. It is not one panel breadth of slashed material, but twa separate panels of breadths crossed, The bisected train, slashed up to the knee depth in the back, as reported by Awericans, seemed ap unbelievable in- discretion, but before this innovation wae many weeks old the two edges Were caught together invisibly and the train kootted or fastened by lovely embroidered ornaments, so becoming discreetly charm ing. yet retalping the original idea. The trimmed train, an extremely faithful re- production of that fashion of the "eighties," is returning with many other] Quaint details of those days of draped | dresses. Most of these trains are bright contrasting éclors, though times the lining of the same shape is left unattached ; in either case the color con- trast has that something of the unex- pected always a new fashion, For as the train slips and slides 8s the wearer moves color flashes into and out of view. Drapery is so much g part of the trained What remains of the the ground that is some: hatever an odd shaped corhior vith some- linea attractive to | defining the figure and giving a curving] the bright lining @) bain hrs 4 it is not draped into guch deep folds no is it so conspicuous as when it is of ap other material than the dress and applied | n. searflike form to This is ason, perhaps, ! e} is so "much easier material, nd they may ke, al tnd fast dressmaki of i panpier effe nvisibly | ta to the n when| re t materia Anotl wi folds! of | introduced and merged is that when ti are © material some sort gown 1 in a few draped The newest drape 18 1 dresses from Paris {include a number of unique models where | | | | | i | = a Stitching Thoda Copyright, 1012, a « New York Herald gwirthed or 1 m2, mpany in flat! at the; ive Copyright aid the nmaterial, folds aeross the fronf, cavght in back abot fifteen inches below the i distingtly, contont, | then drops into long folds to ome of the] {odd j curious changing of line at the Paris belt, | defines rather the trains aleeady mentioned This | the fashienable out back is shown is some other dresses where scarflibe applied! draperies wind about, the figure over the' apd a relative effect is} given by tightening or draping the folds} till they define the figure. artistically and meodesgly it cannot fail to! please, for some of the draped statues of! Greek figures bave their shawls draped about them in the same movement. | Brocades--their * combinations of ma! terial and color are seemingly #udless-- and a chiffon plush sre the new winter materials, but satins, from messaline lo iPerty; bead Suibtuidired chiffons and ousseline de soie are still very fashion abje. For ali these drape into jovely folds, or as transparent {fabrics suitable for the sting fonndation! dress, A wide sash belt accompanies many of the evening gowns that are sot draped on priocess lines, so that while the high waist line is preserved in a measure by the belt top the lower ndge gives to the outlive a longer waist. Above this sash fhe material may march ia colo, but is. foundation skirt, {wear indoors over thin Whea dose 7 are!; TH t gowns. aid year's Tashi tiy different from tl mate dresses on k a s of the and fashion 8a Ux ! irapéd robe, by Reondean, 1 pers is drawn op to show the curve The skin has the bisec 1 and bo A ure train knotted and tied at the ends, the er em- {in ce seams are of silt i belt broidery. drapery finishing a | motnres Jd end at the back. hidden by the among the new ba: is balagced By 8 half width train Made of white satin, the tulle jose, n a Jenny model. entire upper princesge. and draped, part is of crossed by i rhinestone chains ending in front in 2 A cluster of roses catehes the silver lace ruffle iin fr ront, The third veiled jered with adth of Llack part of crossed train at the hack, transparent {triangular ornament to the skirt of rose hla n in pearls robe is old lightly with k talle velvet drag lower the gown, and t answering color note in the bl The" Transparent Wrap of Mousseline we'Soie, with Embroidery and Drawn § Heutinget of r of fa hiffo range Two models, one r, one « the material used for Winter eve The chiffon wrap would slip ni show extremely wide ing heavy fur automobile coat some occasions and could be ret frocks. One model braided w k of old rose silk waslin white, that of chincl ur has a b 'fox border. HAIR ORNAMENTS, HIS Is to be a se ments, and it is a o tion for the majority of women whe 4 miortahle reflec have act the perfection of bes aty wh | makes aay sort of coiffure ora coming Mt' there Is the of liberty afforded in the selection Never nt be §reatest amount, new ornaments. the styles put forward as among thé « newest offerings iucloded such a grea variety of these ortaments, the styles dif son's | The straight bandegu, cially suited 10 the ingeawe sizle of hair! 'dressing. except whee a hs tigrette of! other standifiy ornament fs attached to! i at owe side of directly in frowt, ile broader bapdeau in 'pearls, diamonds |, Oriental embroideries asd suid nod coloret| og 2 enee MWA markedy | sesaparent. Fuel ecules, A008 4 : ImIsrvals With Jew fb' worl iu th. Mie when a Meviiugy \ wraps i wo of hair orma- is Rolie SPORE costes dn sigretie in sufficien: iu) E DAILY BRITISH WHIG, TUESDAY, OCTOBER ETS FOR GIFT f ite ne arrat deaux. Exqu attractive. The * tiaras are of the workmahship in PIS te finest i with myriads of tiny large stfnes T * most ith perhaps five fe or sil + g ; ar i the centre of the design. ° oD work presents the appearance of t prese tppeara ¢ presented most exquisite of Jack Frost's tracery. Fillets de rk in 3 ' any doubt as to-wh of wreaths, the platinam " licate Ww leaves and vines, with the palest destrahle. pearls set in which are soft, |} he Jniict caps, ¢ lead dresses composed of jing in flexible strands, is made of-old| nd bead work of ti fourth ¢ most attractive n {matter of fn The Chinchilla Fur Coa Pritt Cota { tw t 1 ith B 12, by 1 ed v preight, 1912, New svpary favorite f fashic embrei fragra SESQTY. ¢ for wear with every Bal the case with tive colofed » of 2 iit icien bandeaus are 0B three sirsmds so that the bets whi ors nm Tt i fn Large sh these x at each side ne Qe ch i iween the sirands Many ire alse arp Yemen who wear real ¥ Rader purcaase 1 up rch a ay i purpose is being t wel rlwes high in ihe of FUR "TRIM MIN feet satis] sciory for i Pe rene heis in a great + wear ihe versage or sents Tie side of the ow. i edgingy wh all sorts olie. vay Broad bands, a ie 16 Town no be Logued, Wih voiflur nt thi, is uareu! w Ba slays te case f bate ie air, when the jewe: may be wen srasmdnt, and Sain it may aa -- Are usu square, affec ttle eglorin ° lack Fox and Border 0 lscorate mised they ave tied B. Squat or oval shapes usid for are being contiection with crapk and plosh. facings {and brices of fur sa bats of satin. wroeade wood velvet and full ts Bf fur tak- rated with a ecnverdionai patiers set os Shine he wl of gouthers agomic on th 2% wolid besd bactgrowma Hie a wall 1912 S s Chri nm h me the si f : Stile boxes x » ow so atirac-|™* 1 many at at very little A great fry oto go in for w devot- bo +ifts enjoy 2g ont the charm-if eful god ? ! I'y about two and pl material being d k, and the color that the ha whom they are to he Should here he is preferred, ch eriépe ed te wh are cove ch of satin or velve the embroidery the fur, whi rapecialiy If a delicgte br of k rocade a wi its, flat, a clear te and re bor may perf skung, and machine, pad- if one side after row | hand. wns bave a broad, brim \ most important en the all aR. 8) RECS EC DS SER = ELLE 3 Sooo) 1 C = LEC SC << te £0 Two Pointed Train Caught by Band Maison ten k Henid Company and hea vy| in cockade Th ade. 1 jarge orname shaped like a BAGS AND PURSES. rses are now the were ever, und ier the flower repre which nce in the centre of rs time arg still Mauy purses y ery should be very hese purses flowered silk or sat and vers, and then friends, and A centre ec tiny fn; Even | 1% woman will we bh is not! & of ed ome such purses and 2» i w be is and in bes mage s are a do e. Bm the sachets at all] y dainty of thew joostume and UF no weans an inexpeusive | ok in the guain designs wr of h usually' con. | grounds, w old 2 J shades a, bbon of the sam red, bles and vio ery fasbionatis.' atiractive box of Ministace 8" as are now 'a {Three shades pase Lavender eh mske a nr background of ads tive Yor this and old piu are fascioatiag baring a dark biwe becky am ound, GS FOR HATS, is season's fa ¢ laupe sbad ere in delicious a bags 68 this season shades of rose ' in wany fe Iusier of r try Tushiosn. ariety of ways, sud i wade i ree enough to cover f purses the design is tapes the So8 agyed together in MH Contplet 1; the nav 4 ware pictorial rature, scenes of quite an elaborate chsracvierd being wrought with Still other purses are dboo- & are msde up, much detgil jouer tema Amy ume 3 quail gal rder, a i front; :| for those who do not at, | SY ¥ ia) Ee " iee i pap lier purses have designs of x i RK erépe or he crown i long i § i orl with! these | Small] ns are richi | She Sided Train Draping Pred or "e a PO oh trees of gold dark large, ows archale the Noah's itern s! | fark variety wrought and steel et gre of on a greer quite those the rnating with those of gold hops where the canvas stamped d Osa fin hav. purses and hags Is have each pattern half ished, the amateur bead worker thus ing before h constantly a perfect pats er tern from whic) other halt to camplete the ign for the unfinished & stamped ir further olors as a | worker bag the entire half mwa terials, Melud i $5 A smal en 43 Wrougat pat 1 pu After the ba mounted by tern, are se with all ma terials is 50, gs are fine ished they are on gu af jeweller, n metal, silver or gold, HAMMERE D SILV& | Old fashioned hammered s Iver is now of the may be seen returning to favor awd at some ¢ z fashionable silversmiths in rivalry with the pierced work designs which have been consi lered most desir able . . able now for several years. The ha ni. mered silver pleces for the table are usy- quite plain tation in design, the ernamen Consisting usually of a light oh rs in the befder ie tome instances is pick . A | {the silver } Babies bowls of ticle: cies this mmeres Treated this \way exduisite s finish and ple in co aw 1 With tn used the 3 voat is ki I finish, it also escapes the thess ol the highly polished pieces. 1 small : of bowls are inost attractive in this sry ie | ; tsilver. The prices for 1} jrer ake greater than those of the pierced designs, as the lapumered silver | pieces contain more of the me and the amount of isbor expend thew I» al least as great. Decanters of orysial sad of f aud the have the. th design 8 e this who love desig otch The and sive love Scoteh sgn is worked oul on the crest I pe, some of handles {on the silver stoppers decanters | come in thew squat and ordinary apd la around with t tall and slender Jike Anothe er rs bottles. iecanter favorite wed spaces quite large and de € a silver work, the bowing a good deal of fue Kings be twe Fashionable silversmiths sre waking © moulin racks which Bave become so lar for with Lhe aliernoes fea éqeipment, sels of to Rateh, Tie perfe PVidin sod is esacty the wooded ria, silver rays THY S Are iio vach of Sets of indi idudl ¢ errata Yass jo ma A 8 Jarge vame which is used in the eenire tabi are used By some Jmsiesses Wilh great success for the decorsces of the luncheon snd dinber rable a sre set in silver bashes As op sisnde there ix 3 ser of thems 1ley fay bé ued Fouref them soe a with the centrepiece asd cupnerted w 18 i by silver chains, - larger centrepieve fur some vivasites Pisced on a wirror and the stall vases circled ground smaecied wit £8 vier snd the Sometiies st & smal] Seon the ye {eases are put 3 euch trailing vives laid toward the setfre of, ; the reutre vase is Sled with grapes, the tines trailisg dows ever the alle amd cosmmoting The (onite Liver Sheri with the small vases > with some variety, forming 3 Agsin the centre vase Is 1 AB = bes vities centre by us place, the table, and