'THE DAILY BRITISH WHIG, WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 23. 1912 -- - SAE THIS = WINTER : 8 sever It these pleats make a better balance than!the line made by all gold salio n and would plain wateria Materials siready artistic Kast lod tassels {pl leated may be bought in the New York! P k, white and black as 8 oglor scheme she 8. both the socordicn and the me- rightly arranged, se of pr most effec: {chanical varlety Very often the ac. tive evening « combinations that conld cordion is used only on the skirt, in the be desired when the stronger contrasts are wais |manner spoken of. to be avoided. belt shows In many of the one piece frocks the Lhe oiber evening gown has this same! above, with a waist line is uoticeably longer. whether | lend . ce 'colors, black, white and jin; the ends a' ene {the transition is hy a wide belt or one of : {the extension blouse effects. This in- g cated at dhe dressmakers' Woman. i: : ' jstinetiesty heug houn _-- kis hich ! 3 i «© 3 T PM shop openings in Color contrasis in gowns and even in, oF & Ww Nader pues - New' York that reapers' tilored suits are the rule for the season. ! : j waist line is disguised is by the slight will be the salient fea 7, contrast may be of equa' or of dis- [iNausivg. of the material ever the bel ture of the winter dresses! juilar proportions, yet it will lend a de- { This occurs in many of the most recent mud elaborate coats. Outside of the classic [iahiful note of gaiety tq winter clothes 3 = {desizns. perhaps suggested by drapery. Tn, Alor made snit tor moruing wear It Is 10 gp pone go : : [the tailored suit the long waist line is turn of the three color \ ' 2 ven more marked by traversing teams i 3 / jand sirapping:. even by a slight blousing always been famous. Take, for instance, fe. {of certain panels, like the back or the i . 2 { fro) t. One of the most successful models New York, Satorday. [combined with softening colors, beautiful 81 has been clearly indi- Models have been designed for the older : . i be found in some dors in every model o ibarmany for which French designers have fashionable pretensions. | Sometimes it takes a secohd glance to dipcover the folds, : : one of the prettiest of the importe - #0 cogningly are they disposed, placed to : Lu ported au} . {has this blousing in a wide back papel, {and it gives a wonderfully good blouse line to some figures, especially those tat) jare short waisted. | There are two rather distinct novelties {in the ent of skirts. One gives a very jenrved outline at the sides by folding the the third eolor was a pals : ¥ R bi feria} 20M eo ch! . deep V in it, vam: : aig putty gray that 2 ing up this V, which extends half way | : {down the skirt lengta, and leaving in tha {baggy fulness, which falls into shallow sash bow with rather short ends, * ge 4 J i folds and gives a curving outline to the | ? : i |silhonette. Otherwise the skirt is plain. laupe charmeuse was auoth 'r gown, on} x i = 2 13 : The other, also from oué of the best' d i 5 {Paris houses, is fluted to knee depth, and! {a sashlike drapery, pleated into the waist om the belt.at one side and draped sol ; 3 off § iv : {line in the back, is drawn forward into a Liat it fell oblighTy neross the skirt : : : ; {drapery that is held by the seam This isi kad A 3 PR fa {drapery as applied tor cloth. Nothing yet] has been found to replace the Robespierre the fron. to a little one] gd ¥ 3, collar 28 a dress finish, unless it is the e of the centre, 1 here it tucked ander) ) 4 3 : ' { tulle ruche with a strip of fur through| "It only to fall in a long tagselled end! 4 gs 4 A J . {the centre. For those who caunot stand | vest anda Mack velvet : i 'the thickness this Kives in spite of the the three color eombin : =; p s , diaphanousness of the tulle, this rucle | a ation r.- " : 2 . Co sometimes starts from the sides of the! df neck, only the stock part, extending ex-| 1p velonrs are the - Ml . F \ tirely around v.ade of a folded band of | two wool materials used, and come In aif i z £2 ¢ : * § jsatin, being ribbon that ties in three loops - and two euds at the back, the ends tumb models seen in New York, a dress' that was both discreet and charming. Tt was of navy blue chiffon draped over a white charmeuse slip. Stock, surplice, vers and eof" extensions were of Per Ra EN asi F go sian red chiffon with a picot edge, and made a sash of taffeta, high on one side, low on the other, where it tied into a: very: simple lines, the drapery being a! separate breadth of the goods starting! i it in by 'ts folds at the knee and! Peau de sours and 4 he brilliant colors: but velvet remains i * fa 8 be ig tr § ¥ i o \ {shoulder depth. - ivorite dress fabric, thongh the res) noy- 4 | elty is velours ep 1 4 og T : . s ei Sous This latter mate rh Trimmed Trains for Evening Oripery 14 tet Hs im he Spe om Sumi san doen OAR rial is an ottoman weave that h : / L : ha as the . q we, | i ql Gowns. | B 1 sie { ive St oy vet 4 A { |} give cachet to the gowa rather than to Fiped yeiveis, not 100 I , . 3 > i ; 4 it | With the returning trains on elaborate] strongly contrasting | ole 8 ; emphasize Lie drapery, RB color, are usp Y 5 4 f i ing 1 | : eLhisth for guwin and weabe.. A : , DEEL. afternoon and evening gawns has reap-| . I Wraps.» : / . i) : » An equally strong fashion trend is 10 be o> tia * { Ax {peared @he of the frivolous fashions of the! Poted in the color schemes. Red hae rs modell shown on this) . ; ; |seventies, the trimmed train. Styles this! : i of . p | : . tiama} "eome out "in (he color gumut as a domi- (5° : jantumn have been in a most transitional 3 3 : 3 i i i | MAN Bote; not ihe clusiic cerise and x ctabination stripe of pastel gray . ---- SS PALO) {stage and are 'yet borrowing details from : . x ap rE sud 3 q mat istorical eras, a e t Anterican: Bonity: 1oues of the preceding ud blpek. Revers aud cuffs are of white A jo any by . ri ibn elie Soa ward we sic ree he al punty wéiison, bur wonderful few reds from a M017: the yoke and raffles of white tulle, Several Matenials Combined im This Train, {of line, fashion is modernized by many de- The apron pane! in fre g i e apron panel in front extends up onto) Maison Lelong {tails taken at random from different this striped velvet, a preity: fashion point of view-wreds that are found in India, Persia an. Japan, aud !he blouse iu a belt at the sides and back, | hota Copy right, 1912, ny Reatlinger | epochs hate wot been wory in Europe Exclusive Copyright, 10K, New York Herald Company } Among these style details, many of which IE i: J : : ; I ! America for ears tive edge: at be apron edge it may bel lare culled from the dress fashions that! followed the civil war, is the trimmed| \ i iy x : For the younger t of women aud '"mbuttoued, as it is fastened to the skirt overskirt drawn up into a few folds in| toucd through the centre. It is quite cer-| a: i 1 front. White moire is fashioned iuto] tals that this vest will be the style uote ; train revived by two authoritative de-| SCT STO Areas Sox a § ¥ . ald . i hy cord loops. The skirt shows a simple % girls they are used boldly for daytime deeply pointed collar and cuffs, and the of the simnle one piece dresses, It isisigners. And charmingly nove it is, as will Griuses sits" add : 5 Se Wiraping: the apron edge a fold of satin i ¢ od A d coats, Ia elaboraie . 5 4 Maliness is in the new two! ofte sod 1t.|be seen in two of the models given h } : : ® The other velvet frock is on 'much more! 1001 0 heros by a matching sash bel are, ow mpl mimi Jl @woon and "evening gowns; discreetly cimiple lines-of black velvet with the Pointed form. > sometimes wide, sametimes narrow, wit th] 10 the evening gown, of which two views A View Sh ing the Co ete Train Tri "ng. | In models without drapery there are well sash ends {are given, old rose velvet and tiny flowcr a Maison Jenny. 4 {placed pleats jn front, and between thew is! Under the fur and. velvet coats the sik wreaths are used for its decoration, match. | . Photo Copyright. 1912," by Rentlinger 8x eo Lt OTE placed the vest of color, so smart this sea- | cashmere frocks will be worn throughout |b in color the figure in the brocade, the | Exclusive Copyright, 1912, New.York Herald Compan F) 2 Tal ON A son. 'Plained models like this one seem t6! he winter. This material is heavier than |SToundwork of which is white. The - any 54 ; i " : . 5 have the long fitted sleeve with a wrist charmeuse but very much like it, and|foundation skirt is'of black crépe chiffon, green the beantiful Empire tone. The] Some of the other new models hava { 5 ; ruffle, while the draped dresses retain the hus & new suede finish. ' Here the new, Jove white charmeuse satin. Osxer ope! green is used transparently as an over-| more consprvative train trimming, as in {elbow or three-quarter Jength, These vests, | fine, flat wechanical pleatings may be | shoulder basses draped white net, trans- | drapery ~a triapgular back panel,/a dinner gown with a white accordion {of bright red or green satin, are placed| used, hung from skirt yokes, as founda- | parent over a chiffon 'lining; this appar. | weighted by. silver fringe, ought for! plaited chiffon foundation Over black 'generally between facing pleats, and often| tien skirts for overdrapery, which is [ently emerges below the brocade overskirt {ward and caught to an Oriental square-of lace is placed a white lace, both Chantills 2 foe as (he dress opening. being but in lined to onesidedness in many models: following one edge of it and continuing | embroide ry placed low in the front. The the white showing beyond the edges of black, and both with surplice waist and And a row of ball buttons follows this en. bow lines above and diverging polonsise lines GOWNS SCANT AT HEM, WIDER ABOVE | -iiiiiii: ONE are the tube shaped fashionable! : would hardly harmonize with type of drapery, then 'passing vuoder the white 3 dress. A Giluiy matching ruc la and down to the train end. V's of lave are placed in trigngular and gowns of lgst season. They are re o ; be dresses that \ i het is worn as nec! 1isl a lo l placed this antumn by dresse as a k fin A WW disriond sha, ; on trains when lace is a coils Ti " z {give graceful, vaselike curves to the femi- b 4 ar is un ung iture of the evening gown, aud in the 3 Brocade is fashion y in day . wep Oblong trains, made hy a separate pat nine figure. Draperies are the vause of the 3 " 4 L a | ; . A i : } . f ng over t skirt, a straight band nef LYE a ! r trims the narrow edge | vanishing. as they bring wore material ' "ia 4 chestnut brow Trains themselves drag fro mi I welve to into the skirt, 'break severe putlines and # bia | f : ¥ lighter tor . o> twenty-four inches on g roid In give a fulness that is acented by the way Liou" tha wh tral f t "alt the gown is caught in wide ciosely about a Th \ pe i A VOrE Bbw. onion . unle , 1 % o 2 3 a ny « 1 slash in fr The knees or ankles. So tightly, in {aet, Tr 3 h 8 Aro . y ¢ od 2 iu this done that the wearer would be un : a ) . 2 ; : . 3 ropelike strand, at able to take a step were it nol for slashed rd bets or cunningly added trains Hing avs Though the wast Hoo is far {rom belug long. still it is descending slowly and un ostentationsly. lis descent is covered by! ibe ousting of the wast of a wide belt The short sleeve dies hard and is used in even the atest Cavisian wodels wher Wh skein {the frock is elubornie enopgh to warrant wear it or the owner has a pretiy forearm i In fact, uever bave {ashions been so {promounced]y fominine. Aq curious rever sion toward frivelous pettiness they are Lin thi day of common sense, yet France has proved (hat pretty women can be braiuy, yet charmingly feminine in their pire. The: is uo reason to suppose this {may not he ually true of American wom 5 jew. Certainly for social occasions a wot {an cannot be too attractively gowaed, just fas she.uannor be tou conservatively dissed {lor certain workiday a : 2 ' [iM {on " Aeeping new poke shaped with "fawtnisie The gow us skhetein d bere are up to date juvdels eujied to the row velve., bre: fender und rips chicons One capgeiz Hy. of yelved, Bas its long simple drapéry {lines caught bmi aosie ded by a: 3 . yi ' wl ivet oh wound i wd bickie of weal damask: another like g 7 " : v . 2 ior cotiar of volver amd t [buckle is pued as au slid oi the wid - s ikaw sleeses dee slp with fine chiffon | wrinkled Bait. The skirt is slit ap a® the! § ou J " x) fogs. Mauve velvet and chiffon nin Juap jr 3 se tise a marrow traiv, giving - chupones the brig wonnet, trimaed ae ty by Reatlin, * = wore freedom to whe © ug though wel i ug #lend Copsright, 1912, New York Herd Cans ani stop; a -- arene, a " -- PH 11. 'he 0 TE Uedes eaten) EE 5 i x ih AA = ~ aid - a ----