A ---------- nT the last Chantilly race meet there were two' dis | tinetly different types of) dresses, and each type | Soémed to have a certain] namber of followers, One style included many of the details of the theatrical costumes de- signed by Leon Baskt and Paul Poiret for thé recent ballets in Paris and Lon- don, the others were modernized versions of various quaint styles of the nineteenth century. Of the pictures here, snapped by the camera at the Chantilly course, one, dn extremely modern silhouette, stands in the new posé that seems to go with the futurist |' The changed, gone are the broad shoulders and | gown lines.» contours Aare indeed | the whole upper part of the body seems to have diminished in size and all straight lines are dissolving into very round curves. This gown .is of black sprigged taffeta, with tiny flowers of Pompadour coloring. The curious skirt has all the fulness drawn toward the front, where it hangs forward. The bolero fronts on the waist, widely geparated, reveal a foamy mass of | net tucks and frills, Below the belt the| tunic, full and puffed under at the lower | The Little Spencer Jacket Combined with a Skirt Fitted by Radiating Pleats. . ---- S-------- : ® The Rose Moire Wrap Is Lined with Flowered Silk and Has an Ermine Collar. Copyright, N. X. Ho edge, gives the new width across the centre away how posed in front, One of the new of the figure and is fastened down the |*UM and rain parasols is carried and asitk front by ting round buttons. All lines handbag mounted in chaged silver is heav- combine, from the long, loose sleeves to the unfitted skirt, to give the new loose ly trimmed with box pleated ribbon. Worn over a filmy white tulle robe that Taffeta. look that gowns are acquiring because of | An Extremely Modern Silhouette Gowned in Flowered, Copyright, N Y H. Of Reddish Purple Charmeuse; » with Pleated Frills of White Lace. Couyright, N.Y, H. WEDNESDAY, / - the utter lack of seams and gores. The} tiny hat helps to accent this, too, with its little overhanging lace brim ruffle au! skimpy flower wreath. In anothse costume the quaint distended tunic ruffle is used. Made of the same] material as the costume, a silver gray taf-| feta, it is finely box pleated and shaped; | the logver edge, eurving down the back, is) lizhtly wired to make it stand out from | the skirt. The skirt, of one piece of ma-| terial, is lapped aud draped, fastening at} the top by six tasgelled arnaments and Ly tiny buttons below, This skirt falls in| ahout the feet so that it has almost the| air of trousers, A deep yoke reveals tras. | parent white tulle that makes a good back: | ground for the necklaces worn. The shape «[ the bat and the pose of the aigrette are, Ike the whole costume, remmiscent of the wostume of the Russian ballet. On lines culled from gowns of the last | century aye some of the other costumes, Tor instance, the little white taffeta] ¢fsque coat worn with a white mousseline tu: soie robe. This casque is charmingly « Abroidered with bright colored sprays. i A few folds of the skirt are caught up in! front by a beaded cord and tassel. The! 'ack taffeta bag carried with this suit: i< the favorite model in Paris at present: I dght flower sprays are embroidered oi) he, "ky ® it, and it is wounted ju a heavily chases} ever frame. The baudle of taffeta. is! c1pght by two silver slides. i A midsummer tailored suit of gray ond white checked woollen material is Reminiscent of the Days of the Polonaise, When' e Drésses Buttoned Down the Fronl § Coprright XN ¥ H * : no li has a very simple yet artistic decoration aud is topped off with the charming an. Under tlis is a peated flounce that gives ~ ¢' hiffon or shadow lace, ¢ of underrun light blue velvet ribbon is a omaly of a tiny ermine collar. most. marvellous wrap. Made of pink aiveady very up to date lines a very spe that bas a floral design runnin: Copyright, N. ¥. H. A Midsummer Tailored Suit of Gray and Whité/ Cheglced Woollen Material. a fulness to the dress hem such as bas pot Reminiscent of the days when the polo- been seen for mapy. seasons. A plain ornamented by white tassels that give its moire, it is lined with a wonderful silk vaise was the fashion and gowns were fas- round beit of the material posed at the °° across It tened by numerous buttons down the front new waist line that shortens the corsage yt AUGUST 27, 1918. White Taffeta Casque Coat with Robe of Mousseline de Soie, Covyright. N, XH. FASHION'S WHIMS. | HE smart fashions of the motent | cannot be imitated easily, It is im- | possible to cheaply and in | "brummagem" the toilettes created by {the big dr-semakers, Only the "little | gimple draes" for the country may still {be worn by every one, and dresses such {as this are quiet and very far removed | from the new creations of this sensow- | ereations which are the result of science, copy jart and taste. { Bvery day moiré scems to become more I popular for smart toilettes, and it is {made with big impressions and of an exs The manufacturers have made the changeable "shot" effects | which give the lustre of taffotas, and make delicious summer costumes, | quisite suppleness, | these An afternoon cloak will be indispensa- { ble with some of these filmy toilettes, so the Parisian dressmakers have designed varied models to meet this need They are all wide and envelop- ing--easy to slip on and very little in the way. When they are made of moire satin or taffetas they are generally left unlined unless with a monsseline de soie in some vivid tint, which is striking and yet matches some detail or trimming of Some of the practical coats material for carriage wear which has amusing igns -in the mod- a number of the toilette. - of woollen Casfume Showing the influence of the Ballet are lined Costumes of the Paris Season, and original painted des with silk Copyright, N.Y. H, term style. Seme even have animal de ,arm bag is carried," larger but resembling; tailored suits. The skirt, adjusted by ®igns, after the style of Rabicr's draw. the others, and the black moire hat worn radiating side pleats, is of unusual and: ings. Cull anything ell be more fan- is decorated with a tulle ruffle and a novel shape. Both spencer and skirt are! tastic? ; large aigrette. made of navy bl k serge. Between Another of fashion's eaprices may he Brilliant reddish purple charmeuse! t w ly mrated « of the spencer seen in the exaggeration of the little hat, a striking dress that otherwise is ws the Ll of Hngerie. Te coat which seems to become sinaller every day on the popular lines of to-day. The corners ar ihroidered and a decorative while the tes have the opposite tems leated lace frills have vory pointed edges collar is of black ve nd white silk."dency to augment their width, Last year, which give them a novel air. With this The sleeves are not quite full length, re- and especially two years ago, when the ostume is worn the new round feather vealing the lingerie blouse sleeves, and are sheath skirt wa o popular, enormous wa, the long ends floating down the hack. edged » ruffling that alse Tong hats were worn and ¢ effect gave rise A hlack tulle hat adorned with white up side of the sleev The beltito the wpa risen ween women and iigreties pulls well down over the head, fastens ar rather waist Nine! walking stie or unhrellas It secms, ind a white faille handbag is carried. With this t is worn one of the latest of hy the way, that the pendulum of fem- A little spencer coat worn with a very the. nes tum straw s with the gine f i swings between two styles Inew shaped skirt gives a new note in brim edge turned down [of sithonelte, th wll and the umbrella j= ---- 5 zzz | shap 1 ATOCLLQ + 1 N 31 " UNI ERWEAR/ Ih ear Weer, women seem to {CHANGES IN F ASHIONAB KE IN IK v have ' from both these standards, | NDERWEAR changes io, lace edge that seldom has a® sign of aibut it se t we are in a period of fashion with the varia-{™ file. They often have a 'stash to give transit ne oracles pretend that tions in the shapes of necessary width to step in. Crépe de. We af tr ve £ in the bell direction. Chine is r these skirts or white! In t witime one may he glad of the gowns. A steady transi-d oo. Colors also are used, the latter present fas un, since it is se graceful jon has been going onlcr with lace insertions. Combitn-' and artistic and so full of charming sur since the transparent tion corset cover and pxGtalous are some-! prises + nies maderof a # 1 gowns and parrow sil-j lines maderof a ! white, | houotte became the vogue, and, while it {has become beautifully less in peiut of low lace material in; A 4 t also makes yp... are only the ms are' 1 | shape is oue-of these little with a high erown and the brim side' only, which is worn well down over tie face, so as almost pale pink orb under-cl depth' of th emises th corset. ¥ shor . fort raised on ona pan the knee in bloomer above i terial, i 3 gai in elaberater s. usually ed i % | material, it has gained in elaboratenes a iy ti iin d d entirely to hide one side of the profile Lo the past season the fashion of filmy : bion by a ribbon run through the hem. 04 the other appears as a veritable 0 Some the princess corset cos 4 1 h prin « 4 ver and urpri hows are the order of {dress tops has almost done away wilh nations the entire garment y are placed either at the back in large quills so as to augment the hat or ¢lse they are cleverly into flower-like petals on a little "cloche," of which many examples may he seen. v ' . & . P he v ithe armhole in the chemise and corset; nde « sthe day. It has been replaced by ribbons |i roidery a iternate rows of French em lace, each shaping from wide irment. } LOWS are very wrt, hardly reaching to ankle length. lashed at each side, with the| rs. rounded po" ! ' el Vivid tones at: very popular at the {moment--~Empire green, cherry red, orange, pale khaki, &e. 1 batiste and he sober tones of the toilottes allow Whe fia certain degree of liberty in this diree ste are again fash je. Altion, but one must be careful not to falk city shop displayed recently ajinto an exaggeration, which might easily jeover. he i i he size {ring over the shoulders or straps made § twister Some of We new entirely of lace, for thie shoulder straps, ¢ semi-transparently, must be as and decorative: as possible 1¢ filmy blouses of tulle that or another thickness of net only, straw showi i Others are s Under ave imparted set of uniderwesr made 1 recent e batiste the ruffles were wong tying ever the shoulders in- of alternate 1 of eolore Yale sleeves, are worn. rlonnes sed with tiny chiffon flowers i it delie; lors. | New York These areilace w sets id are sometimes of ial . lin stripes. It is bordered on the outside is the gown of white lingerie. It is heavily of the gown and a wide cape shaped eoilar ; ie a ba d the waist x | whole wind of bright yellow under Make one's head resemble that of a cockae «ial ee The basque part of the coat is edge by a piping cord and on the inside trimmed with Cluny Ince, and U3 caught up adds other bygone details to this gown he : Sud iu . lant eo deep at y - iy elu mas "ito, wey : hy 1 x : : + i . . ie X ep wear, vn fal, The hat bias (he new large fis. ogge by a double pinked ruche of the silk, in true polonaise fashion at the knees. of quaint lines. A large brocaded velvet °°" : 2 i Hh gis ao 4 % Sh 3 = is AS . Pele Ee or. Mi lh i! 3