Daily British Whig (1850), 13 Dec 1913, p. 47

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EasylendiPractical Suggestions' * , FOR; THE HOME DRESSMAHKER A white silk coat, with bonnet to 'match, is shown here and the outfit is very d ble for tots between the ages of one and five years. White cloth is more serviceable for the set #nd looks very smart; in this instance, ver, a better plan would be to have the cape trimmed with flat silk braid instead of insertion. The nar- row ruffle should also be of silk instead of lace, when cloth is used. ight shades of blue and gray are very modish; for children's coats, like- wise rose and pink. It is difficult to A stylish-and practical outfit for tots between the ages of one and five years. The cape may be cut witlwlower edges round or scalloped. The coat is smart made of white silk or cloth in pink, - blue or gray. Developed in black vel- vet it is sérviceable as well as smart. get a light color #hat 'will' not soil quickly, so there is but limited choice. Blacle velvet is very dressy &nd it looks well trimmed with either silk or braid. It is being used extensively this sea- son for children's wraps and bonnets, The cape of the coat may be cut with the lower edge in round outline or in the effect of a deep collar, One and five-eighths yards of s54- inch material, 214 yards of 36-inch, or 17% yards of 44-inch fabri¢ make the outfit. Three yards of insertion and 4% yards edging will be required for the trimming. To make thé coat, the back should first be plaited, Crease on lines of slot perforatio®s; bring fold near cen- ter-back to center, and bring remain- ing fold to lin® of sniall "0" perfora- tions: press plaits. Sew yoke to upper edge as notched, Close under-arm scam as notched, close shoulder sean. Turn hem in front at notches: and at lower edge on small "0" perforations. Adjust cape om coat, center-backs and notches even. Now, gather lower edge of the sleeve between double "TT" perfora- tions, join sleeveband as notched, and close seam as notched. Sew in arm- hole, seam at notch in front. To make the bonnet, gather the front and lower edges of back section between double "TT" perforations, Adjust stay to position underneath gathered edge having small "0" perfo- ration, notches and centers even. Join front as notched, centers even. Tack ribbon underneath front at seam and tie in front. The cape may be made entirely of all-over lace, if desired, but this adds three or four dollars to the expense of the coat. _BONNET stay Br or FOLD. OF 44 INCH MATERIAL WITHOUT NAR Patented April 30, 1007 . No. 5218, Sizes 1,2, 3, 4and § years. : These Home Dressmaking articles are prepared especially for his newspaper from the very latest styles by The Pictorial Review. _ PIAS oi ws p Ferrie "THE SPORTS COAT OF PLAID How intolerant we all are! husband snd wife have seperated large ly because the husband had become intolerable. The husband expressing himself to a friend, explained : "1 admit that my wife is a woman. But she simply wouldn't or couldnt go ahead. 1 progressed. She would not fit herself to be the wife of a successful professional man." i i'hey had been married seventeen vears. They have four beautiful chil- dren who have been well brought up --by the mother, Their homé had been a pleasant place--kept so by the wife. The husband had' always pre sented a well-fed prosperous appear ance--his wife saw to it that he ate good meals as regular as possible that his wordrobe was in order that he kept his promises as mearly as she knew them and that he kept his friends thereby. She was intelligent enough to watch out for his welfare; to bring up his children in an attitude of respect for their parents and with a semse of use fulness to society. good The Chinese parliament has four women members, elected in the Can- ton provincial elections Miss Ruth Law established world's air record for women of Garden City last. week, when she made a flight of 800 feet in altitude about ten minutes in duration with a passenger aboard. Generally speaking, color combin- ations are less bizarre and more artistic. For evening wear, the swathed, flounced. or draped skirt is reigning supreme. The vogue for the zilk street dress not only holds but seems to be grow- ing in popularity. The "Chatauqua salute." which consists in waving a handkerchief, a } have just heard of a case where [growing and difficult" household, i and has been popular in women's as- "Have you ever noticed how wo- men love to «ry in the theatre ?"' ask- ed Helen Ware, star of "Within the Law." aa" "I remember when I was a child, wondering why ladies eried when my mother took me to the matinees to see 'East Lynne.' I know now that they cry because they enjoy Nok only the playing but crying it- self. "Women are emotional creatures. In 'Within the Law,' I love to watch tha audience weep over poor Mary Turner's trials and tribulations, be cause 1 know that all these dear The housemaids of Cleveland, O., have formed a union, and they are greatly exercised over the question, "Shall we or shall we not consent to receive our men friends in the kit- chen?" Good for the housemaids' union-- I believe in-it. Better hours, better pay, better sleeping rooms--I Hope the housemaids will get all these things. Why not? But about the kitchen business. Pause a moment, dear Mme. Presi- dent of the Housemaids' Union 'What is the matter with the kitchen? Is there something disgraceful about it? Pray tell! And if so, 'when did its disgraceful honor begin? Ugly? A good, wholesome, clean, She had the brains to finance iB and save money to further her husband's career on "nothing certain a year." let me tell you that the housewife whose husband earns a regular salary has a cinch compared to the woman who never knows when the money is coming in, or how much it will be when it comes. to make ends meét in the latter case. | ut because the woman remained a plain little . homebody, ' who didn't care to splurge in society, who made! no bluff of ancestry; who cared noth. | ing for "front" and would rather wea: | a two-season-old winter coat and a made-over bonnet and permit hersel) ! to be comfortably plump than to change her clothes and her shape with | the fashions; because she was an hon est soul, attending to business instead | of shooting offi Roman candles to cal) attention to her excellences, failing to conform to her husband's idea of what a wife should be, he made life sp un- pleasant in their home that the time | came when there was no longer : home. Now that the guiding hand of his | A genius is réquived | {toward wives who don't come up Intolerant Men Can Wreck Homes. career has been thrust away, he is losing the ' friends he had--nobody makes him keep his promises. He is missing the sleep and the rest and the comfort he needs to conserve the energy his work requires. He no longer looks the well groomed and properous man. He is horribly in debt. His stomach is going back on him. He is bdset with a theusand worries that benwnb his wits. Peo ple are losing confidence in him. Hyg is a huge spoiled baby 'with a bad case ol big head, and without sensg enough to keep his own = machinery raniing smoothly. There are other men who, in heart of hearts, cherish their intolerance to their ideals of fitness; the man who believes business should be the fam ily god, and who resents his wife's sense of the beautiful; the man who resents his wife's lack of interest in baseball; the man who can't see whai a woman wants with new clothes when he needs the money to be a good fel ow; and so on--all intolerant of any qualities not fully approved by them- selves. While You:Wait. semblies, was pronounced unsanitary by the Long Island council of Wo- men's clubs, at its last meeting, on the grounds that the salute releases germs 'which endanger health. The new hats show a touch of fur. The all-black hat #5 a great favor- ite. The xcorsetless figure is not fash- ionable. Bodices are flat with sloping shoul- ders, Smart afternoon hlack satin. 4 There are thirteen women acting as city councillors in Copenhagen. They have placed women inspectors in women's lodging houses, and have made women the health commission- ers, 'n charge of 'adopted children. The South Orange (N.J.) board of education has presented to Miss El-) gowns are of women are ha. 'rxz the time of. their lives. Of course, rou know the story of the matinee girl, who said to her family after seeing 'sob' drama, 'Oh, yes, we had the nicest time at the play; 1 never enjoyed anything so mych before in all my life--I just cried, and' eried, and cried !" ; A certain New York theatrical man- ager says that ninety-five per cent. of his matinee audience is feminine and seventy-five per cent. of the night au. dience is the same, Is it any wonder then that if the girls want to ery at the play, the manager is going to sce that they are afforded the opportun- ity ? "Why is it," someone asked Miss bright, cheerful kitchen Why, to my mind, it's the prettiest room.in the house... What's ugly about a ¢dhining floor, and clean curtains, and a bright range, and rows of good cooking dishes? I've seen dozens of stiff little re- ception rooms with stiff little gilt chairs in them, and a stiff, berosied carpet on the floor, and a stiff gilt mirror on the solemn walls, that weren't haif so pretty as a kitchen to my eyes. I don't see anything disgraceful about a kitchen, unless it is dirty. Seems to me if I could cook well enough to hold a good place I'd be proud of it, not ashamed, and whis- per, gentle maidens of the House- Janet Brooks writes in Montreal Herald : The annual agitation of the early closing movement as it relates to Christmas and the appeal to do one's Christmas shopping early, has been going .on for some time. But, like the jority of thi of importance in life, repetition from the use fulness of the desirable thing. } do their merchant to realize early on his goods | and this gives a steady, healthy pulse te business. Selfish Reasons If Nothing Else. But, in spite of tha good intentions and good actions of so many Christ For Purely Selfish Reasons mas eve will find shops packed to suf- focation, nobody able to secure mer- chandise which they know to be on sale, evérybody cross or tired or ready to take apn unfair advantage if possi- ble. Everybody™ Well, there are re presentativés of all these individuals out in force on the last night. The humanitarian- reasons urged for early sh have no weight with some. They not give a thought to the girls and the delivery men. But aps if they realized some ol the vantages that come to them, , they would shop early. For one thing, the pack of stores with sho) - from kinds of homes from ear i to almost mid- night can not t in the best air possible; tonsilitis and other oat « :zabeth Arcularius, a graduate of the aigh schoo! this year, an amethyst necklace as a reward for a perfect record of attendance, for Miss Ar- cularing has been neither late nor absant in twelve years. Mustards and yellows are colors not used fer street suits. Separate wraps for are three-quarter length. Purple and yellow are the most fashionable colors for dyed fur. Fur, lace net or plaid taffeta trim the separate blouses of chiffon. The frocks of serge are brightened by sashes of Roman striped ribbon. Mcre than 800 women and girls have signified their intention of join- ing the battalion of women which is now being formed in France to share in the national defence of the na- tion. street wear AY Actress Says Tears Are Maternal. Ware, "that you never catch a man three hours in a theatre, sniffing un- til bis nose is red and his head aches and declaring that he has enjoyed himseli ? Why do women do it?' J "Because," was the reply, "mep are built for the rougher things of life, women for the finer. Thinggethat ei-| fect birth and death and all the emo- tion in' between are women's special province. Do you want to know what I really think is at the bottom of it alk? T beliéve it is the material - in- stinct--for that after all, is responsi- ble in" one way or another for' all feminine emotions. There's my opin- ion in a nutshell." And perhaps she was right. Why Not Courting in the Kitchen ? maids' union, I never noticed any aversions to the kitchen on the part of any man I ever met. The average woman has to argue witlc her Lhusband by day and by night to keep him from making some excuse to get out in the kitchen. "Don't send your young man away from the kitchen, gentle Hilda or sweet Eileen Lead him in and see how mild and tamable the sight of that shiny range and those rows of delectable spices will make him. If I had a young man who was a little slow in coming to the point I'd never see him anywhere but in the kitchen and I'd wear a4 good big clean, serviceable apron when I saw him, too. Shop Early. "catch" carry contagious dis eases. Fpidemics of all these are al- ways expected after the holidays, and are the natural results of crowds. Selection Is Almost Fmpossible. For anothr thing, this selfish sho per rarely gets the most desirable things. ile, or she, may be so selfish as to think that any gift will do "just so jit counts." If something choice is desired one may rest assured it has been picked up early by the prudent 2 When Christmas morning' dawns on such a household it finds a dismal lot ~na one in the spirit of the day, mis fits in what was sent, lack of ability to appreciate what has been received and anything but "Peace on earth, affections are sure to follow. Children good will to mens" _ Care The many winter diseases tg which ehildreh, haproperly clothed, may fall vietims, and the measures to be takem to prevent were explained to about fifty s who at | cian. as the best plas. of Babies in Winter. of throat or luag trouble, since, so many diseases, following such ail ments are contagious. The mothers were warned against the application of home remedies, the speaker sug- gesting a visit to the family physi "Many mothers," continued the e of over Fs deciding exactly how much clothing should be worn by the infant to keep it fairly warm. No amount of fresh air will ever be harmful, al though care should be takem to pre- vent draughts. a "When the baby is taken out into the street, its face must never be covered by a heavy veil, while dven a light veil is not absolutely meces Th arms Sa fo 4 After it is & i i) Easy and Practi v cal Suggestions FOR THE HOME DRESSMAKER The woman who can not wear flounces because of limitations of sta- ture; will find this skirt trimmed with bias }folds a. very acceptable model. If it i. found that two folds make the figure look shorter, then one may be omitted, or the width can be modified. This model is designed for misses and small women. The skirt is a four piece affair, with high waistline. It closes to the left of center of front MISSES' FOUR PIECE SKIRT. One of the new straight models de- signed for women who can not wear flounced effects successfully, 1t is trimmed with two bias folds of its own or a contrasting material. The ad- justment is effected under the plait at the left of the front. The striking effect of this dress ap- No. 5394. Sizes 14, 16, 18 a under the plait, therefore it is neces- sary to finish this part of the model very carefully so that no suspicion of the adjustment will be visible. It requires 234 yards of 44-inch ma- terial to make the skirt, with 34 yard .. of webbing 2 inches wide for stay,' Cloth, serge, voile, velveteen, duvetyn, velvet and peau de peche are only a few of the materials used in the de- velopment of this model. In developing the skirt, first join the side and back gores as notched. Now, plait extensions, creasing on slot perforations, lap to double "00" per- forations and press. Adjust bands on side and back gores, center-backs even (narrow hand is up- per band); stitch upper edges along crosslines of small "0" perforations. Turn under edge of front gore on slot perforations, lap on side gore to small 8 "0" perforations, notches even: stitch'; | as illustrated, leaving edges to left of center-front free above large "0" per- foration ~in front gore for placket. Gather upper edge of skirt between ° double "TT" perforations. Adjust stay to position underneath skirt, centers even, small "o" perforation at side seam: stitch upper edges together. Among the new skirts classified as "straight" this is a most popular mod- el. There are a few gathers at the back to dispose of the fulness about the waistline. These may be cone cealed beneath a half-belt made of the material, cut in narrow strips, braided ond finished with buttons or twists, o of the cloth. ". CONSTRUCTION GUIDE + [STAY "FH nd 20 years. These Home Dressmaking articles are prepared especially for this newspaper from the very latest styles by The Pictorial Review, All the quaintness of the Moyen Age is displayed in the bodice of 7976, while the skirt shpws the softer lines of a later day. We are not hampered by periods in dress designs, but may pick out and combine 'the good points of several without committing] a breach of taste . Crepe meteor in a dull shade of green effectively relieved by braided bands of dull gold is used for T976 The girdle is of velvet in the same soft green with the ends fringed h ola. IVELY KNOTTED VELVET GIRDLE Few of the children's garments tod day show a walst-line. and graceful, and plenty of room is al« Towed. Soft, light wools are used &l+ most exclusively, with now and thea a soft little frock of crepe ge Chine on China silk for "dreséup" occasions, 9899 is a new littie dress closing '@i« agonally in fromt, fashioned of dark Blue serge with collar, cuffs and stitche ed belt of Roman striped sillc It may be copled In size 8 with 2% yards of 36 material, do inch No. 1976--sizes 34 to 42. No. 78 10. Lines are sasy ='

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