" I ? ~NEW PARIS MODELS FOR W7LL DRESSED WOMEN Smart Frocks For Misses and Small Girls . bre colored velvets, being trimmed witht collars and cuffs of rich embroid- ery. A Stunning effect im black has | i : l-one ¢an become, $ - The mid"Season: in dress finds #5 many novelties on the market as though the stores were respendent with «thr fall or spring openings. As 4 naiter of fact, spring fabrics are Legmning to make their appear- ance in anticipation of the Southern sciason, Notably among these are new satinelined' cloths of soft, pliable texture that are easy to manage and delightful to make. Tailored suits for spring wear are to take on very much the same lines that have characterized the suits for winter and mid-winter, Very plain effects are to be adopted, buf the materials to be used are very elegant. Brocade velours 'and other rich fab- rics are ta be replaced by cloths that are note the less expensive, for in many iistances they are patterned with flowers, slightly raised and out lined wich metal threads. There are very handsome tailored suits developed all in" one material d two materials, the skirt being "of plaid and the coat of plain ¢loth, ar wice versa. Skirts that are plaited at the side, with a box-plait somewhat wider than the side plaits at the front, are extremely fashionable and will likely continue in vogue for some mauaths, The full 'effect that is gained at the hips is very much liked and it is really graceful when made cor- rectly, Over such skirts a jacket of almost any shape may be worn, the cuta and Russian blouse models being es-, pecially called for just now. There 18 &¢ n to be a«great nand for separate collars and because s0 many of the new are plain, especially those designed for strect wear, Some fancier coats are among closer lines than the jackets that have the latest models, but they on reigned for the past season. Blues are beginning to take a more prominent place among the fashion- able colors. Probably it is because they are being selected for frocks for Aiken, Palm Beach, Miami, ete. The newest tones are very cheerful in ef- fect. Wedgewood blue 1s always. pop- silar and although it is used now prin- cipally for eveming wraps, it will be in demand later for tailored costumes and for semi-tailored dresses in silk and linen, Certainly it is a season of rich ma- tertls and richer trimmings. The dress that is made from goods that costs $5 is nothing unusual, and there are many of the velours that run as high as $25 a yard. The metal gauzes are simply prohibitive for any except a woman of unlimited means. - These gauzes make delightful wraps show- ever. But they are not sufficient in themselves in spite of their richly 'decorative effect for they dre so sheer that a lining is required and a trim- ming of fur added to afford the neces- sary comfort. "A number of smart frocks are made of black, dark brown and other som- 1 dle cuits, coats are a girdle ending in two long ends reaching to the hem, while the revers are of red velvet. This red trimming is also used for the collar and under- sleeves. Dame Fashion has the posture fever : this season, if such an expression is permissable. No one seems to stand traight any more. The head erect, knees back, shoulders back, heels to- gether position, once urged by the calisthenic director, is hideously out of style. One must slouch--or in more poetic language--droop--to be in fashion, And the droopier the atti- tude, the limper and more boneless the gharter one Jooks. The. modish droop is called in Gotham the "debutante slouch" and is achieved by relaxing®all the mus- 24 4827 clés, bending the knees, one more than the other; letting one shoulder sag and the head loll. In fact the entire movement of the body 'in walking is one of extreme laziness. Some of the Warisian dressmakers afe contending for the return of the 1stle, and the continuance of the hip effects seems to indicate a deoree of uncertainty in this mattet. The bustle is a mode of such hideous memory that many leaders of fashion rise in revolt at the very mention of the name. The coutourieres that ¢ling to draper. effects are sailing on seas of sweet gontent, for whatever the changes bring, it is ceftain that drap- eries are here to stay for some time Smart women are loath to give up collarless blouses just because the weather is growing colder. Heavy coats make an ugly line against bare necks. Fur soils the skin, and doubt- less contact with the skin is not good for the furs. There are some very good net and lace ruffs and collars that can be put about the neck under the coat and also under the fur collar to protect both the fur and the skin. One of {liese is a modification of the little gold-tasseled folded band of net worn last year to protect the coat collar. It is, in fact, the same sort of folded net, ended at each side with a gold tassel. Top coats are serviceable just now and they seem to be coming in for a 4 MAKING A GOWN FOR EVENING WEAR. A Simple Model That, Looks Elaborate but Is 'Within the Capabilities. of the Home A handsomé evening gown may be made from the dress illustrated to-day. Although the effect is elaborate, the home dressmaker will find no difficulty in developing the design if directions are carefully followed. The skirt may have a tunic of its own or any con- trasting material and the bodice may be of chiffon or net, Built ver a' silk Ta eo . HANDSOME EVENING GOWN "effect is Dressmaker. Ce foundation. The drooping shoulder employed very gracefully and the sleeves are cut in one piece and inserted without any fulness. It requires 5 yards of 44-inch satin CONSTRUCTION * great deal of attention, because the cold weather has heen so late in ar riving that fur wraps have not beén much in demand. Fur trimmings have appeared everywhere and on -every- thing, but the entire wrap has becn a uscless garment so far. Whatever there may be in store in the way of cold weather can not bring forth much to offset the vogue that has been gain- ed for fur cloths and furstrimnied ma- terials, \ Long coats of tiger skin, seal plush, moleskin cloth, etc, are exceédingly smart and many a woman, adopts these new models who can afford the real pelts, just because they are so handsome and wear so well They have exactly the same effect as the real furs and 'there is the advantage of not suffering such great loss when they are cut up and made over into other garments "with the changing SEASONS. : The bEst thing that the woman of average means can hope to do in the way of peltry is to buy a gopd fur cloth or a clever imitation of an ex- pensive variety. It is a fact she often pays the high-water price sad lor i A 5415 to make the dress, with 2 yards of 13 inch deep lace. for the flounce for the s made and, by the way, it is not nec vy to have a silk foundation unless a very sheer ma- terial is emplbyed for the development of the waist. There are many imita- tion silk linings that answer the pur- pose just as well and cost less than taffeta or foulard. Take up a dart in front as perforated, then turn the hem at the notches. Adjust shield on right front, centers, neck and shoulder seams even, Close seams as netched, close center-back and shoulder seams. Sew collar to neck edgé as notched. Form plaits in plaited section, placing "T" on corresponding small "0" perfo- rations at upper and lower edges and tack. Turn under front edge on slot perforations. Adjust on lining front (crossing as illustrated), bringing cor- responding small "o" perforations in plaited section and in front together: stitch shoulder edge to positien. Sin- gle large "O" perforation at lower edge indicates center-front.' Now close the under-arm seam as notched, then close the shoulder seam. Gather lower edge between double "TT" perforations. Close sleeve seam as notched to extension; turn under ad NEW SLASHED CHEMISE. All the ingenuity and cleverness called modes in dress. in materials, though less in the cut of of the designers of lingerie have been upon to make undergarments appropriate for wear with the new As a result of this, there: 1s a constant change ggg on' the models. The French are certainly inimitable in getting out garments that are attractive and pleasing. While Tinzerie of all kinds has taken on slighter dimensi ing fologss it is finer than cver. colored linens for bindings and insert ' # The employment of be materials is emphasized and the newest in this ¢ embroideries in alt aver designs, net plaiting, isi nuection the machine ings, puffs and insertions, cate ¢mbroideries on ret foundations, cotton crepes and silks On*the rer class of urdergar varerewands ars 'died, seh af wen at AR ¥ t Lr Fan's om oe Piicel sort an air of elegance sad ncliness. Much' fine ) of course, dainty designs in hand embroidery are also beautifuly - ' FE » i The models gives them used, And; % fe tates stitching isealso 5367-5369 «day it because she has beech told that it real. One could say of the fur business what a main of discernment said of a merchant 'who said he had made a forthne selling antiqués. "You mean you have made a fortune selling modern things is antiqires." There are ynany things that eater into the jndgemcnt of good furs and one' should ¢ither #8 to a reliable dealer, or else ake a special color of dyes, the length of the hair, etc, before buying a piece obj Coats. for general long and enveloping" They are hand- some. in poodle eloth, Cumberland cloth, téte de negre and all of the wooly effects that come in smart col- oripgs. These coats. are always bet- ter trimmed with pliin buttons of with straps of their own material. Gray and brown are ckeeedingly fash- ionable and are oiten one with the other, the erial, though a different- color ng used. Buttons enter largely into the deco- ration of all wraps... Every! r from c¢ simplest mother-o'-pearl to the hand crocheted effect T are made labordaie d 15 5350 PLAYING THE It Is the : and Her Purchases es Bo 5 Operate Against the High Cost of Living. Many a woman who knows nothing of bull and bears, puts and calls, margins and collateral, is playing the market this season. But her opeéra- tions are confined to the vegetable and meat market and her manipula- tions are. limited to the small house- hold account which she must accomo- date to the increased cost of living, at the same time keeping her table up to the required standard. The woman who can make a dollar bring full one hundred cents' worth, ic as valuable to her home as is the general man- agre of a big corporation. She finds it necessary, however, to pass by the recular dealer, especially if he keeps tore; on one of the fashionable thoroughfares, where high rents are to included in the price ~f 'his meats and provisions. It is als Zued, though, that these very are sometimes cheapest because their immense business trans- actions make it pos ¢ for them to buy in larger quantities at more ad- vantageous prices: One must exercise common in the observiftion of 15, a . is be a deciding factor, For it is absolute- v necessary that the people who serve u be honest; then the ¢ Id market in person an he i. Ifthe pl a defi be shops sense conditions srdering 1 sl ounces and the purchases > apply to buying meat. the housewife's scales. ften it is worth little side-street markets and even push-carts. Purchases sometimes are made at these carts that will really as- tonish one. Fruits and vegetables fre- quently considered a luxury by the spender of a "middle class" income are oiten sold for a few pesinies to those who live nesdr a push cart sec- tion, while to visit The price of meat bears direct re- lation to flavor--the juicy cuts being highest in price. The less expensive cuts 'may be far from cheap in the last analysis, for ion s miore than half waste, while round is only one- twelfth waste, 'and porterhouse but one-eighth. However, the real test is the amount of edible'portion to be ob- tained for a given sum, ahd here the round has the best showing and por terhouse the poorest. If thé housekeeper knows how 'to select good quality meat, she has a strong défense against unscrupulous dealers. The firm texture and bright color mean good health and wisely, expended money. Purchase of fish is governed by many of tli¢ saine rules as those which Learn to know good quality, relative food value and price, and when to serve fish, so as ve it take ats proper place in the 5099 NOVELTIES FOR A CHILD'S BIRTHDAY PARTY. Table Decorations Employed by the Mother Who Plays Hostess to Her Youngsters and Their Friends. The most successful mot who keeps herself in touch with play life of her child. This necessi- tates an observance of birthd}ys, holi- seasons and all of tlie othér fes- tive occasions that appeal so irresist- ibly to youngsters. % : At this seasomr-when theré is plenty of time for fun, there are several ideas in party-giving that may prove of value, because they are pretty and in- expensive. Originality in entertain- ing is as essential to children as fo grown-ups and new effects should be introduced, ¢ven in serving the cus- tomary sandwiches, ice cream and cookies, the latter, with the aid of fancy cutters being easily fashioned to represent birds, flowers, brownies and animals that are sure to appeal to the childish imagination far more than the caterer's most elaborate efforts. It is also always a great pleasure to children'to take something home from "the party," so that little, iexpensive' souvenirs should be provided that will give happiness quit? out of proportion to their value; while favors or "snap- per mottoes". must not 'be forgotten, as the boys like the noise and the little girls are delighted with the-op- portunity of "dregsing up." If desired, little tables seating four r st ch decorated with the birthday flower may be placed in the hbrary and stining room, thus allowing them to play "tea party" to their heart's coment. And if this plan is > the and ¢ on slot periorations, lap to 0 perforations. Sew in arm- as fiotelied. Arrange on liming, prs and fndertart ams even: fteh lower edéfes tawother ; : Vie ctod-hye Praptof ¢ a! "<r perio sew to lower even, Taree . seam, edge of waist, centers back a have @verything y sandy rs, small after-difiner coffee cuffs, ve the cocoa, and litte ulds' jelly, blanc cream, . ™ small tables are used, a larger one' of adequate size should be placed in the center of the room holding the Horner" pie ang the decorated birthday cake, with its colored candles, which ate lighted be- fore the clilldren assemble in the din- of Irena, = i bre 2. + Cross-stiteh Dolly 11018 ing room. should contain the souvenirs prepare for the children. Select for the p a large shallow pan, in which the gifts shauld be nlaced. Cover the top wi a piece of plain white paper. glug it firmly around the edge, and befo the cover is placed on the pie, brin the end of ribbon attached! to the gifts through an openfoy in the top, witich nay be hidden by a large pink pinks rose, and finish with two full frills of pink crepe paper, fastened to the The Jack Horner ple | J i FASHIONETTES. The most fashionable those with a negligent air. coats are Collars fashioned after those worn by Bernhardt when she appeared in L'Aiglon are very smart for wraps. new Modish afternoon toilettes are made of black.velvet relieved by a-touch of white and topped with hats of black and gold. There is a decided use of ivory- white plush: in combination with seal- brown velvet or plush. This gives the effect. of scalskin and crmine without the expense, Evening gowns of diaphanous ma- terials are trimmed with bands and knots and loops of fur, which 'appear most unexpectedly under folds of lace and net. 'And many of the heavy street suits show fur collars and cuffs and bands gn the skirts. Embroidered chiffon edging is séld in many' of the shops. Some, oi it is. embroideréd in white, and some in colors; and it is cqually attractive when used as trimming on a- chiffon petti- coat or when used as trimming about the neck and sleeves of a dainty chife fon blouse. ----iig A space-saving combination is the guimpe: and "camisole or under bodice m ong. The upper part of this gar- ment is a net or lace gpimpe, with cither high -of low neck. The lower part is made of shadow lace, and ex- tends tor the waist, to form an under bodice for the blouse: with which' the guimpe is worn, Most smart women prefer for both afternoon and evening wear a fine silk stocking, perfectly plain, except for a single row of hemstitéhing at the atkle. There is a very pretty new stocking that is striped with rows of gives 'the effet' of hemstitching, «®t a lighter, more transparent silk 'tliat makes the feet look very slender, Another new stocking that is dainty has a loirg, narrow potif of lace set in the front of the Stocking and running up the instep and the leg. Some embroidered stockings are worn, but there is a. degided preference shown by well-dressed women for the plain stocking. ery rim. At a given signal eel child pulls a ribhon that has be assigned to him and finds, like the little "jack Horner" in the nursery rhyme, the pluin baked in this novel pie. The birthday cake should hold the plice of honbr at one end of the table, and thé cocoa service at the other, while softly ¢haded pink candles; large plates containing minced chicken sandwiclies, "tiny "cakes frosted with strawberry or berry icing, and siafler receptacles holding home- made wafers and pink and white win- tergreen and peppermi candy "will give the table quite a festive dir Ine planning -the menu, be very care- ful that no rich dishes are included, as few children have the shoral conr- age to refuse rich salads, pattics dnd kindred dainties when dficred to them; and as all children are such thirsty little souls, a punchbowl of simple wit. lemonade should be provided, vith a'grown pérson in charge to dis- "3 4 i the thermometer. Stock Market, too, but the Housewife Is the Trader Easily Mada Dataties Tuat The college: girl excels in sweet gifts for the yuletide for she is natu a specials candy making. Many girls whose lowanee Jas felt the pinen of the h cost of living are substituy candies for the usual panes rifle for holiday giits this yedr, snd fot is more acceptable than a home-made sweetmeats daintil ped and tied, because into then hay been put the thought and work ol giver. Candies can 'be divided into main groups--the iondants, the and the fudges. The making of | ant is sometunes regarded by the ginner as the most difficult of all, it directions are carciully follow even the beginner can make success tondant. oe To make fondant, take thrée cups of sugar, one cup water and one teas spoon glucose-or pinch cream of tars tar. Place the sugar and water in a large sized pan, set over fire i 4 stir until the sugar is thoroughly dis solved. When the syrup frst 8, add the glucose, as this cuts the and helps keep it' creamy and solte Continue boiling without Stirring uns ul it forms a "sort ball" when tested in cold water or registers 240 degrees on the thermometer. Remove irom fire at once, let. stand four ulinytes, then pour onto a wet platter, The yrup -should be one and one-hall mches deep. Set in a cool place ant when half cold begin to cream with wooden spogn, 'lurn sugar back and forward until free from lumps. ute wet towel over fondant and leave 10F one hour. Remove coth and knead like bread dough. Place mn awrught jar or dish, as it becomes hard und dry when exposed to air, This paste can then be used as « basis jor cligeos late creams, various "patties," come bined with nuts, cocoanut, &u., Ang 18 really the base of most commercial "bonbons." Lxtreme caretuiness in the cooking and watching tor the right "stage' to remove the sytup wal bring about satisfactory resuits. | not move the pan while cooking. | gin creaming when you can bear yout finger in the syrup. Color While tug syrup is warm. Ripen fondant forione hour before using," Keep mh furtigiic Jars before coloring or moulding, The pulling candies differ catitely from fondant, because they are boned to a higher temperature and are wii tle rather than creamy. insteaa' oi | kneading them as we 'do' with fonauat, we pull them rapidly until they bes come very brittic and of the iainiliaf glistening appearanée which ali wed candies possesses Ine important 4. wr : here are that the sugar must in ¢ye y case be fine and pure, >a The most successtul fudge is beat for ng less than fifteen minutes, bik the effort is rewarded by the spe melting quality of the fudge. 1" generally removed too late trom' nre and beaten too little to acquite" the most perfect quality. Tie offhis ary. fudge can be combined with cos coanat, chocolate, nut megts, and it can also be combined with the witites of eggs and gelatine to form ny varigtions, i a v ANGEL FUDGE. Two whites of eggs, one-half cup water, one-half cup of strained homey, onc cup blanched and chopped als monds, one pound sugar, two teas spobnfuls orange flower pater-and a pmeh cream of tartar. Put thé water, honey and sugar into a saucepan § stir until dissolved. Next add J cream of tartar and boil until itd forny a hard ball when tested in cold water, or ugtil it reaches 254 deg. b Beat the eggs til very stiff; then pour the syrup onto them, beating all the Continue 'beating until stiff, then the orange flower water and alm Pour into buttered tins and when €ok mark into squares. PY He ------------ To Clean Gloves; _ The best way to clean soiled gloves * 1s to make a naptha soapsuds--w| i 1s no different from 'a water s save that the naptha is not warn as the water generally is. But a cake of soap about in naptha wo. i foumy suds results and in this suds' wash the gloves. Riuse them in cleat naptha. The professional cleaners use chloroform in a third finding napthay buy that is too troublesome' for most af:usl and gloves washed first in seth aiid 'naptha, then in clear naptha, will be spotless, if anything can make them 50. og bo eis aE pense the beverage. This, although® osld, should not be iced, on As an example of a suitable 'teh to serve for a children's party, following, which is inexpensive, *is suggested: 5 BILL OF PARE , oH Creansed Chicken in Diaper Cases--<$LA% dineed Tongle Bundwiches -T3e. Buttered Fiager Holls---20e. \ Candy --3e. Vapilli Seow Men--$1.20 ) Faney' Cookivs--30c. Eu Fruit Letnonade--qde, Sapper Mottopkes evade, Jack Horner Plee-Te GUIDE TO PATTERN NUMBER! No. 482; €s, 4 10 12 years. § S50u9--Sizes, 2 to ¥ . 5367--Sizes, 14 to 2 5369--Sizes, 14 to: . 5415+Sizes, 4 to 5350--Sizes, 13 to 30 year i 11500--Traflsfer pattern, 10 © 11916--Transfer pattern, 16 No. 11g17--Transler pattern,