'NEW PARIS MODELS FOR WTLL DRESSED WOMEN . Smart Euocks 'For Misses and Small Girls : bre colored velvets, being . with collars and cuffs of rich embroid- ery. A Stunning effect in black has | a girdle ending in two long ends i reaching to the hem, while the revers i are of red velvet. This red trimming i 18 also used for the collar and under. : this season, if such sleeves, * Dime Fashion has the posture fever an expression is permissable. No one Seems to stand straight any more. The head erect i knees back, shoulders back, heels to- gether position, once urged by 'the The. midseason: in dress finds #8 many novelties on the market as though the stores were respendent with thir. fall or spring openings. As a natter of fact, spring' fabrics are beginning to make their appear- ance in anticipation of the Southern sedson, Nowably among these are new satinelined cloths of soft, pliable texfyre that are delightful to" make. Tailored suits for spring wear are totale on very much the same lines that have characterized the suits for winter and mid-winter, Very plain effects are to be adopted, Dut the materials 10\be used are very elegant. Brocade velonrs and other rich fab- rics ave ta be replaced by eloths that are note the less expensive, for in many iistances they are patterned with flo wers, slightly raised and out lined wirh metal threads. There are very handsome tailored developed alt in one material two materials, the skirt being d and the coat of pln cloth, ice versa. Skirts that are plaited at the side, with a box-plait somewhat wider than the side plaits at the front, are extremely fashionable and * will likely (continue in vogue for some musth The full effect t gained at t hips 1s very much liked and it is really graceful when made cor- rectly. Over such skirts a jacket of almost ay shape may be worn, the cuta 'and Russian blouse models being es pecially called ior just now. There i$ cer to he a great demand separate collars and cuffs, because s0 many of the new coats are plain, especially those designed for street wear. Some fancier coats are closer lines than the jackets that have the latest models, but they 'are reigned for the past season. Blues are beginning to tike a more prominent place among the fashion- able colors. Prabably it is bec they are being selected for frocks for Aiken, Palm Beach, Miami, ete. The newest tones are very cheerful in ef féct, Wedgewood blue is always pop- ular and although it is used now prin- cipally for evening wraps, it will be in demand later for tailored costumes and for semi-tailored dresses in silk and linen. \ Certainly it is a season of rich ma- tertals, and richer trimmings. The dress that is made from goods that costs $5 is nothing unusual, and there are many of the velours that run as high as $25 a yard. The metal gauzes are simply prohibitive for any except a 'woman of unlimited means. These gauzes make delightful wraps how- ever. But they are not sufficient in themselves in spite of their fichly decorative effect for they are so sheer that a lining is required and a trim- ning of fur added to afford the neces- sary comfort. A number of smart frocks are made of black, dark brown and other som- among on calisthienic director, is, hideously out of style. One must slouch--or. in more poetic language--droop--to be in fashion. And the droopier the atti- tude, the limper and more boneless one can become, the starter one looks. 'The modish droop is called in Gotham the "debutante slouch," and is achieved by relaxing all the mus- €dsy to manage and ° cles, bending the knees, one more than the other; letting one shoulder sag aid ead loll. In fact the entire movement of the body in walking is me of extreme laziness. me of the Parisian dressmakers contending for the return' of the 1stle, and the continuance the 1 Nip effects 'seems to indicate a cree of uncertainty in this matter. The bustle is a mode of such hideous memory that many leaders of fashion rise in revolt at the very mention of the name. The coutourieres that cling to draper effects are sailing on™ s of sweet content, for whatever the changes bring, it is certain that drap- cries are here to stay for some time Smart women are loath to give up collarless blouses. just because the weatlier is growing colder. Heavy coats make an ugly line against bare necks. Fur soils the skan, and doubt- less contact with the skin is not 'good for the furs. There are some very good net and lace ruffs and collars that an be put about the neck under the coat and also under the fur callar 10 protect both the fur and the skin. the 1} of "One of these is a modification of the little gold-tasseled folded band of net worn last year to protect the coat collar. It is, in fact, the same®sort of folded net, ended at each side with a gold tassel. Top coats are serviceable jist now $nd they seem to be coming fn for a Arimmed, the ar- great deal of attention, because cold weather has heen late in riving that fur wraps 3 been much in demand. Fur tfimmings have appeared everywhere 'And on every- thing, but" the entire wrap has been a useless garment so far. Whatever there may be in store inthe way of cold weather can not bring forth much to offset the vogue that has been gain- ed for fur cloths and furstrimmed ma- terials, Long coats of tiger skin, seal plush, moleskin cloth; etc, are exceedingly smart and many a woman adopts these new models who can afford the real pelts, just because they are so handsome and wear so well : They have exactly the same effect as the real furs and there is the advantage of not suffering such great loss when they are cut up and made over into other garments with the changing seasons, Y : The best thing that the woman of average means can hope to do in the way of peltry is to buy a good fur cloth or. a 'clever imitation of an ex- 'pensive variety d fac often pays the water pric he she r It 1s a sa ng t © 5415 5367-5360 told that it y of the fur i of discernment nerchasit who said he had made a fortline selling antiques. "You mean youd hase made a fortune selling as antiques." cre are many things that énter into the judgement of good furs and one should 'either 25 to a reliable dealer, or else make a special color of dyes, the length of the Rair, ete, ¢fore buying a. piece of fur. . Coats for general wear are made long and enveloping. They are hand- some in poodle cloth. Cumberland cloth, tete de negre and all of the effects that come in smart col- s. These: coats are always bet- r trimmed with plain buttons or | with straps of their own material, Gray and brown are « seeedingly Tash- ionable and are oiten immed one with the, other, tlic "material, though a different color ng used. Juttons enter largely ie deco- mn of all wraps. Everything from simplest mother-o'~peand the ate hand. crocheted effect is t 1a uded. a it because she has licen is real. Ong te husiness w ~ PLAYING THE said of a and Her Purchases Many a woman who knows nothing of bulls and bearsi-- puts and calls, margins and collateral, is playing the market thiswscason. But her opera- tions are confined to the vegetable and meat market and her manipula- tions are limited to the small house- hald account which she must accono- date to the increased cost of living, at the same time keeping her table up to the required standard. The woman who can make a dollar bring full one hundred cents' worth, is as valuable to her Home -as is the general man- agre of a big corporation. She finds it necessary, fiowever, to pass by the cgular dealer, especially if he keeps store'. con one of the "'f¥shionable thorbughfires, where high rents are to be included in the price Hf his meats am provisions 1t is also argued, though, that these very shops "fare sometimes cheapest because their immense business trans- ous make le for them to larger quantities at more ad- eous prices. One must exercise Mm sense in the observiftion*wof and let this he a deci re thing, it is abso! that the ple whe serve housewife 1 rcad the rng is rire {o mn t in pe If the or [ a ATIC ne 1 Herb It Is the Stock Market, too, but tie Housewife Is the Trader Operate Against the High Cost of Living. the housewife's scales. Often it is worth while to visit little side-street markets and even push-carts. Purchases sometimes are made at these carts that will really as- tonish one. - Fruits and vegetables fre- quently considered a luxury by the spender of a "middle class" income 'are often sold for a few penmies to those who live near a push cart sec- tion, The price of meat bears direct re- lation 10 flavor--the juicy cuts bei highest in price, The less expensive cuts may be far from cheap in the Ist analysis, for chuck is more than hali waste, while round 'is only onc- twelfth waste, 'and porterhonse but one-eighth. However, the real test is the amount of edible portion to be ob- tained for a given sum, and here the round has the best showing and por- terhouse the poorest. If the housekeeper knows how to select good quality meat, she has a strong défense against unscrupulous dealers. The firm texture and bright color mean good health and wisely expended money. Parchitse of fish is governed many of the same rules as those which apply to buying meat. Learn to know good quality, relative food value and price, and when serve fish, to have it take its proper place dietary. > by to SO as in the 5350 MAKING A GOWN FOR EVENING WEAR. A Simple Model That Looks Elabor but Is Within the Capabilities of the Home Dressmaker. a A handsome evening gown may be made from the dress illustrated to-day. Although the effect is elaborate, the home dressmaker will find no difficulty in developing the design if directions are carefully followed. The skirt may have 'a tunic of its own or any con- "trasting material and the bodice may be of chiffon or net, built dver a silk a py ee fro « HANDSOME EVENING GOWN foundation. The drooping shoulder effect is employed véry gracefully and the sleeves are cut in one piece and mserted without any fulness. It requires 5 yards of 44-inch satin CONSTRUCTION "a to make the dress, with 2 yards of 13- inch deep lace forsthesflonnce for the skirt, First the lining is made and, by the way, it is not necessary t foundation unless a very rom terial is emplbyed for the dévelopment of \the waist. There are many imita- tiogy silk linings that answer the pur- pose just as well and cost less than taffeta or foulard. Make up a dart in front as perforated, then turn the hem at the notches. « Adjust shield on right front, centers, neck and shoulder seams even. Clase seams as notched: close center-back and shoulder seams. Sew collar to neck edgeé as notched. Form pldits in plaited secti@h, placing "T" on corresponding small "0" perfo- rations at upper and lower edges and tack. Turn under front edge on slot perforations. Adjust qn lining front (crossing as illustrated), bringing cor- responding small "0" perforations iu plaited section and in front together: stitch shoulder edge to position. Sin- gle large "O" perforation at lower edge indicates center-front, Now close the under-arm seam as notched, then close the shoulder seam. Gather lower edge between double "TT" perforations. Close sleeve seam as notched to_gxtension: turn under raw Le - NEW SLASHED CHEMISE. All the ingenuity called upon to make modes in dress. in materials, though mimitable in getting less in the cut oi While linverie of all kind ing fulness, it is ' finer than ever. materials is em hasized colored linens for } out garments that are attractive and pleas and cleverness of the designers of lingerie have been undergarments appropriate for wear with As a result of this; the new there i§ a constant change Foing on the models. The Irench are certainly ing. s has taken on slighter dimensions and teks The ¢mployment. of beautiful and shecr $ and the newest i p embroiderics in all over designs, net p sindings and insert' st in this fonnection ¢ the machine, i illings, puffs and insertions, +2, delicate embroideries on ret foundations, ¢otton crepes and silks v On the firer class of CIC HB ur derghy Ae wked," seh ds wer i dir Ol elegunue wirkenicliness., VEN ends wr Much fine hier of course, dainty designs in band embroidery are also beautiful, - faest Mf models ¢ gives them ing isealsdeused, And, stitch NOVELTIES FOR A CHILD'S BIRTHDAY PARTY. Table Decorations Employed by the Mother Who Plays Hostess to Her Youngsters and Theit Friends: The most successfal mother is ive everything on ho keeps herself in touch with " f 1y sandwiches, small y life of her child is necessi- £e ¢ aiter-dinner coffee cuffs; tates an observance of birthd¥vs, ho i « ve the cocoa, and litth: «day seasons and all of te other fes- i ilds of jelly, 'blanc tive occasions that appeal so irresist- ibly to youngsters. = At this season when there is plenty of time for fun, these ar€ several ideas in party-giving that may prove of value, because they are pretty and in- expensive. Originality in entertain- ing is as essential to children as to gPown-ups and new effects should be introduced, even in serving the cus- tomary sandwiches, ice cream and cookies, the latter, with the aid of fancy cutters being easily fashioned represent birds, flowers, brownies and animals that are sure to appeal to the childish imagination far more than the eaterer's most elaborate efforts. » It is also always a great pleasure to children to take something home from "the party," so that little, mexpensive souvenirs should be provided that will give hap quite out of proportion to their value; while favors or "snap- per mottoes" must not he forgotten, as the 'boys like the noise and the little girls are delighted with the op- 'portunity of "dressing up." Ii desired, hittle tables seating four six hh decorated with the birthday flower may be placed in the library and dining room, thus allowing them to 'play "tea party" to their heart's confent. And if this. plan is = W ple 18¢ T 1 When -¢ mall tables are used, a larger one #f adequate size should be placed in the center of the room holdir the Horner" pie and the de hday cake, with its colored candles, which dre lighted be- fore the children assemble in the din- rated to or and ¢ Cross-stitch Dolly 11016 ing room. The Jack Horner pie should contain the. souvenirs prepared , for the children. Select for the pie - a large shallow pan, in which the gifts m on slot perforations, Jap to shquld be nlaced. Cover the top with o" perforations. Sew in arm- a' piece of plain white paper, gluing as notched. reangp on lining, ers und tinder: seams, even: h lower eres rawct) wt ofr ii the cover is placed on the pie, bring the end of ribbon attached tothe #ifts by Free Seam, centers Fy OT perfora Cove hinek sew 10 lower edge oi waist, oven, : rose, and finish with two full frills of pink crepe paper, fastened to the ttt through an opening in the top, Nehich 4, may be hidden by ou large pink pangr. : FASHIONETTES. The those fashionable are a negligent air most with coats Collars fashioned after those by Bernhardt when she L'Aiglon are very wraps. worn appeared in smart jor new Modish afternoon toilettes of black velvet relieved by a touch of white and topped with hats of black and gold. are made There is a decided use of ivory- white plush in combination with seal- brown velvet or plush. This gives the effect. of sealskin and ermine without the expense, Evening gowns of diaphanous ma- terials are trimmed with bands and knots and loops of fur, which appear most unexpectedly under folds of lace and net. And many of the heavy street suits show fur collars and cuffs . and bands on the skirts. Embroidered chiffon edging is sold in many of the shops. Some of it is embroidered in white, aiid some in colors; and it is Equally attractive when used as trimming on a chiffon petti- coat or when used as trimming about the neck' and sleeves of a dainty chif- fon blouse. A space-saving combination is the guinmpe and camisole or under bodice mn one. The upper part of this gar- ment is a net or lace gpimpe, with either high or low neck. The lower part is made. of shadow lace; and ex- tends to the waist, t6 form an under bodice for tlie blouse with which the guimpé is worn. Most smart women prefer for both afternoon and evening wear a fine silk stocking, perfectly plain, except for a single row of hemstitching at the ankle. There is a very pretty new stockipg that is striped with rows of gives the effect of hemstitching. It lighter, more transparent silk that makes the feet look very sleader. Another new: stocking that is very dainty has a lowg, narrow motif of lace set in the 'front of the stocking and running up the instep and the leg. Some embroidered stockings are worn, but there a decided preference shown by welldressed women for the plain stocking: 15 rim. At a given signal "¢ach child pulls a ribbon that has been assigned to him and finds, like the little "Jack Horner" in tl tery rhyme, the pluin baked in this novel pie. The birthday cake should hold plice of honbr at one end of the table, and the cocol' service at the other, while softly shaded pink candles, large plates cortaining © minced chicken sandwiches, tiny cakes frosted with strawberry 'or 'raspberry icing, and smafler receptacles holding home- made' wafers and pink and white win- tergreen and peppermint candy. will give the table quite a fEstive arr. In planning the meny, be very care- ful that no rich dishes' are included, as few children have the moral conr- age to refuse rich salads, patties and kindred dainties when d to them; and as all children are such thirsty little souls, a punchbowl of .simpic fruit lemonade should be provide with algrown person in charge wo dis- it firinly around the cdge, and before ---- . for holiday giits this year, ' Candy --30¢. The college girl excels in m4 sweet gifts for the yuletide she naturally "a candy making. Many rls ; lowance has telt the Ta { cost of living are sabstituring candies for the usual Mand page and is more acceptable "than a home-made sweetmeats dain: jig ped and tied, because into th been put the thought and work giver, : : Candies can be divided 'into main groups--the fondants, the afhi and the fudges. The making of fond ant is sometunes regarded by the ginner as the most difficult of lt i directions are: carefully fo even the beginner can make Sucee fondant, To make fondant, take three cups of sugar, one cup spoon glucose or pinch cream of | tar. Place the sugar and water 2 large sized pan, set over fire | stir until the sugar is thoroughly solved. When the syrup hrst bei add the glucose, as this cuts the or and helps keep nt creamy and solt. Continue boiling without stitriig ull ul it forms a "soit ball* when ested in cold water or registers 240 degrees on, the thermometer. Remove irom fire at once, let stand four mim tes, then: pour onto a wet platter. Lhe syrup should be one und one-half mches deep. Set in a cool place and when half cold begin to cream with wooden spoon. 'Lurn sugar back and forward until free from lumps. ute wet towel over fondant and leave 10F one hour. Remove coth and knead like bread dough. Place mn art b jar or dish, as it becomes hard aud gry when exposed 10 air. This paste can then be used as a basis jor cloco- late creams, various "parties," com- bined with nuts, cocoanut, ®c., ana 18 really the base' of most commercial "honbons."- Extreme caretuificss mn the cooking und watching ior the right "stage" bring about satisfactory -reswits. ie not move the pan while Cooking, bes gin creaming when you can bear your nnger in the syrup." Colof while tue syrup is warm. Ripen fondant tor phe water and one tegs as 10 remove the syiup wil hour before using. Keep in airtighe Jars before coloring or mouiding, The pulling candies differ eat ply from fondant, because they are boued to a higher temperature and are ie tle rather than Creamy. kneading them as we do wits fondant, we pull them rapidiy -untit they bes come very brittic and of the talniligk glistening appearance 'which ali pushed candies possess. 'Lhe important is hete are that the sugar must m every case be fine and pure. on The most successful fudge is beaten for no less than fifteen minutes, but the effort is rewarded by the specially melting quality of the fudge. If 18 generally removed too late trom fire and beaten tdo 'little the most perfect quality, The olin. ary fudge can be combined with cos coanut, chocolate, nut mets, and it can also be combined with the wilites of eggs and gelatine to form pn ny variations, 2 ANGEL FUDGE. Two whites of eggs, one-half cup water, one-half cup of strained honey; onc cup blanched and chopped als monds, one pound sugar, two tea spoonfuls orange 'flower pater an a pmch cream of tartar. Put thé w honey and sugar into a saucepan an stir until dissolved.: - Next add $h cream of tartar and boil until iv Wi form a hard ball when tested in of water, or until it reaches 254 deg. on the thermometer. Beat the CEES til very stiff; then pour the be syrup onto them, beating all the' Continue beating until stiff, then the orange flower water and alm Pour into buttered tins and when mark into squares. To Clean Gloves, : The best way to clean soiled glov is to make a napiha soapsuds--whi 110 different from a water si save that the naptha is no war as the water generally is. But 4 cake of soap about in naprha wn ] iodmy suds results and mn this su wash the gloves, Rinse them in o naptha. The professional cleaners wse chloroform in a third rinsing naptha, but that is too troublesome for most of us, and gloves washed first ins sodp and naptha, then in. clear naptha, wi be spotless, if anything' can make them 50. win ily pense the beverage. cold, should not be ice Ths, "although insteaa' o1 © acquife As an example of 'a suitable meh tor a children's which to serve tollowing, suggested: , the expan. 'is is BILL OF PARE .. © « ed Chicken fa Paper Canes--SLAR vd Tongle Sendwiches-. Buttered Pinger Dolls oo 8 ¥ Vauilty Soow Men--§1.30 Fancy Cookles--30e, a fo ¥ro#t Lemonade--ite. Buapper Moitosk-- Coevn--36c. - Juek Horner Ples-ite GUIDE No. 482; Cs, No. 5090--Sizes, No. 5367 --Sizes, No: 3360--Siz¢s, No. 5415--Sizes," 4 to 4 g 270. $350--Sizes, 14 to 20 years. No, 11500--Traflsfer pattern, 10 0. T1916~--Transfer pattern, 10° No. 11g17--Transler pattern, 1a Pictoriat Revitw Pa hay be obtained 'by sending | for, sac ow Department of Sod TO PATTERN NUMBER 4 to 12 years. 2 10 10 years. 14 tO 20 years. 14 to Jars, i