TI 892 '8192 A DRAPED COLLAR AND AN EFFECTIVE RUSSIAN BLOUSE \ The draped collar standing out a trifle from the neck in back is one of the novel features that the new In some instances it 'ves a _ slight suggestion of the fichu, but or- diparfly it is strictly Japanese. A t attractive costume of Railine is ijlustrated In' No. 8189. This material shows a silk corduroy stripe on a foun- .dution of voile. Here the color is dull {gréen combined with plain black satin. This costume shows a novel skirt and an attractive blouse with a draped col- ar A Im sige 26 this dress may be copied with 4 yards of 42 inch material. In 8192-8193 we have another Japa- nese collar which is highly attractive. The blouse itself is kimono in effect, has a chemisette of met and a smal in-set vest. A band at the. bottom ot the peplum gives a new and pleasing effect. To copy this design in size 36 it re- quires 3% yards of 36 inch material for the blouse (8182) and 25% yards of 36 inch material for the skirt (8193). 0. B189--sizes 34 to 44. No. 8192--sizés 34 to 42. No, 8193--slzes 22 to 32. Each pattern 15 cents. ; . *. Spring Hues Ate Mellow ' Spring colors have the mellowness of autumn. 4 Rich, deep shades they are, not the intense, bright tint of spring foliage and flowers. A lovely new green is glow-worm green. Chartreuse and myrtle are also attractive shades among the new greens, Petrol is a new blue .that is al- raost black. popular, and there is a lavender tint- ed blue whith is like the tints on old china. Schehdeerazade pinks range from pale salmon to deep coral, the yellow tone prevailing all through the range. » A Lansdowne : frock in the last named shade was accompanied by a coat lined with pale yellow and the combination was most pleasing. Long gloves of pale yellow em- broidered silk also accompanied this Chambertin costume for the after- Blue promises to be especially 7 ! 0198-8109 A MOST ECONOM i versa id a gown of sult, ut a recent open- '.eXampleés of the seon, Ripple silk is wide and may be pur- chased from about $1.50 a yard and up. To"copy this frock in size 36 it re- Quires 63 yards of 3% inch material, 'No. 8198-819¢ 1s a costume that also displays the effectiveness of contrast- ing materials. The coat is of faille slik, and the skirt is of faule with a broad striped tunic. The skirt has a slightly raised waist-line, and the kimono coa: + {shows a full fength sleeve. - (S198) and 0% "This costume requires for alze 36 23% yarde of 3% inch materiat tor the coat yards of 36 inth mae ter the skirt (3199), TERA No. 8198~stzes 34 2. THE DAILY BRITISH WHIG SATURDAY, FEBRUARY 28, 1914, PEC -- The theatre was beginning to buzz with the laughter and chatter of the early comers who realized they had 15 minutes to wait before the cur- tain rose. It was the first night of Grand Opera and "Lohengrin" was the offering. My bachelor friend had secured our favorite seats--10th row front--and we, together with the early comers, were passing the time' discussing the people about us. "Ethel Tucker is positively. beau- tifvl this evening!" 1 exclaimed, as a young girl, follgwed by an elderly woman and two young men, entered one of the lower boxes. "Ethel is a pretty girl, very pretty, bat Eleanor Russell is radiant. Take a look at her, lass. Did you ever cee a girl with finer poise or a more sparkling face than Eleanor's?" "Just to look at them it would be very hard to decide whether Ethel or Fleanor was the more beantiful," I added discreetly, trying to express myself honestly. "It is well you put ia that clause, 'Just to look at them,' lass, for the secret of Eleanor's attraction goes deeper than mere looks. Perhaps that is the reason she takes on an aurora of beauty which Ethel does not have," answered . my bachelor friend, seriously. AN Nt NNN NNN SN, MNP It depends after all to a great ex- tent on the woman in the home whether the service is excellent or a mere excuse for service. These suggestions are on the subject of training a maid into better service and along lines that will bring satis- faction to both you and herself. First of all, remember that ser- vents are human and that they are tired out with work as frequently as other workers are. They need a rest, and after a respite from work a better attitude towards it will re- sult and better service will be given. Secondly, in order to have work well performed and decidely efficient you mist: know what you want, and without indecision, which destroys all confidence and respect in your servents, you must give clear direc- tions and orders. Remember: that dignity in treat- ing servants can always be.combined - "Ethel and Eleanor are both typi- cal society girls, representing as they do the two types existing in every group of social life. Some men en- joy Ethel"s kind, others follow Elea- nor. As a rule, I have noticed the mer. who marry an' Ethély girl are young men who never had a serious thought in their lives and never-did a serious piece of work, generally they are dissipated to boot. More serious minded men like Eleanor best and in the énd her kind of a girl marries a pretty decent fellow. He may not be deliriously wealthy, but he will have convictions of his own---convictions and the strength to live up to them. Yet, on the sur- face, Ethel and Eleanor apparently atiract the men who visit them for the self-same reason. They are both vivacious, carefree, fond of flowers and chocolates--in fact, are what ig generally meant by the term 'society girl." Men like society girls beceuse . their very frivolity is a chenge from the business or profes- sional life followed by the men. They accept her society as a pastime ~--she is a toy, delightful and re- freshing, with 'which to pass the evening. "Naturally these girls marry in time--the Ethel girl to her kind of YOUR MAID who has not been used to ordering, his right hand in helping himself to and who has not the innate refine- ment and good manners, that' main- tains the superior air and the 'high hard." A real lady--that term to be taken in the full meaning of the word---never forgets to he kind. Insist on neatness in the attire of the maid who is under your instruc- tion. Another qualification is the quietness of service and the quick eye. Without being obtrusive, a maid in the dining room must know that more bread is required, that the water glasses must be filled, that it is timé:' to remove the dishes. This ability is acquired by practice and by frequent insistence on the fact that it must be given with good service. The water glasses must be kept filled, and this is done at the right of each plate. Impress this on the maid. Serving of all other food should be done from the left. This with consideration. It is the woman Writing of the increasing tend- ency on the part of the country-bred boys and girls to flock into the cities and desert the farms, 4 thoughtful woman has suggested that to some extent the remedy may lie in the hands of the parents themselves. Trey are too apt to let life degener- ate into a round of "chores" and to neglect any attempt to bring color and brightness and relaxation into the home. Consequently the young people as they grow up become dis- conraged and. desirous of seeking variety and excitement elsewhere, and they crave for a chance to make friends of their own and to have a corner in which to entertain them. Tiere is no doubt but that there is a great deal of truth. in this. - I know o! a farm, writes Katherine Leslie, where no papers or books, except the gives the person a- freedom to use man, the Eleanor girl to hers, And between them there is all the differ- ence in the world, for Ethel is on the surface, while Eleanor has a depth of her own, a certain fineness of purpose, a vision, an ideal. She may laugh with you and dance with you, and even go so far as to flirt with the man who is caught in her meshes; but in-the end she comes up true blue. Her ideals are not warped, as are Ethel's. She believes in the sac- redness of marriage and true rom- ance. "The society girl has her place in the great scheme of life, and it's all with the individual how great a place it shall be. She may be satisfied at being an Ethel, but I from a mere man's view point, thank God for the Eleanors scattered her and there in the collection." 1 glanced at Ethel. Gayly she con- tinued to chat with the somewhat shzllow youth hehind her, now and then nodding to her friends, perfect- ly conscious of the attention she was attracting. Then my eyes wandered to Eleanor, leaning slightly forward, her hands idly folded in her lap, a dreamy expression in her big eyes. She was totally unconscious of her surroundings. Truly she was the girl who could see visions and dream dreams. Pirie F nt ---------- THE GIRLS' ROOM not find it dull, says that he has got on so far without hooks and papers, and does not see any reason to begin regding now, But he has a numer- ous and -healthy family of boys and girls, and it is not likely that they will long be satisfied with the pre- gent state of things; the haphazard though plentiful meals, the shabby, uncared for rooms, and the mother who has ceased. to take an interest in anything outside the farm. 'And 50 another prosperous farm will be broken . up, for it is not lack of money, but lack of enterprise and sympathy which is the cause of the parent's attitude. Unfortunately it is not only on thé farms that such a state of affairs can be found. 1 know of a girl at the present mo- ment, a girl of fifteen who is study- children's school books, find their way from year's end to year's end mn CARE OF T Beauty in lips is dependent upon condition not less than upon form. The skin must be firm, smooth and free from wrinkles or blisters. Gladys Breston, the actress, known as the possessor of exceptionally beautiful lips, offers the following gold weather suggestions: "Bear in mind that my irregular- ily of the stomach is registered by the lips. There may be at times a flow of poisonous saliva af the .corn- ere of the mouth. This, if not check- ed by removal of the cause, brings first irritation, then sores. A half- teaspoonful of bicarbonate of soda taken in half a glass of water will 'settle the stomach by correcting a condition . of acidity. The same ing to be a kindergarten teacher. and the farmer, if asked if he doeshave a good sized hquse; she does Her parents are comfortably off and HE LIPS IN COLD WEATHER amount of soda, with a teaspoonful of cream of tartar, taken in water before breakfast three mornings in succession, will help "materially. "Frequent moistening of the lips with the tongue when ga cold has caused them tp become parched is injurious. The saliva, besides being poisonous, is an astringent and in- creases the irritation until the skin cracks. It is much easier to prevent the lips chapping and cracking than it is to cure them. "The skin here is extremely sen- sitive and needs much care. It should be kept soft and pliable by regular applications of cold cream. At the first sign of chapping a healing cream should be rubbed in ' after the food which is held for him by the maid. If seperate dishes are to be used, they can be supplied by the maid just before the main serving dish is offered. Spoons should be placed in the large dish, and if any difficulty is experienced in the help- diner, and the sugar and cream on a little tray, are held at the left while the diner helps himself to them. Between the courses, before the dessert, the tables should be cleaned of the crumbs by the maid, This can be done with a "'crumbler," which consists of a knfe and a small flat-handled tray. It can also be dene with a plate and a napkin. Af- ter the dessert, the finger bowls should be filled with fresh water and placed before each one, and the maid can then withdraw until the dining room is cleared. The table should then be entirely cleared and the cen- tre-piece and flowers placed upon it. not lack food or clothes or even amusements, but she has not one THE SOCIETY :GIRL . | A Tay eg SOME EFFECTIVE STENCILLED PAGE THIRTEEN ae Ta 1 . EN GA azn DESICNS IN NEW DRESS FABRICS Exaggeration is more or less neces- sary at the beginning of a season; fit brightens us up and gives us new in- terest in clothes, Awning stripes, large dots, lozenge squares, small shepherd's checks and soft, rich Scotch plaids are among the unusual designs that mark the new materials. There are crepes showing the Chinese influence, and taffetas, which seem to take the lead, showing Roman stripes and plaids. Ripple cloth afd Railine are two of the new- est and most novel of the materials. The costume shown in No. £220 ef- fectively displays the mode of combin- ing contrasting materials which Has taken such a hold upon' the fancy. Taffetas.ia used; a plain bordered de- sign forms the tunic,'and the skirt it self shows a stenciled dot in light blue on a darker ground; the blouse is In a solid blue, * To copy this costume in size 36, It re- quires 634 yards of 36 inch material. Taffetas averages $1.50 a yard and comes from 36 to 45 inches in widfl No. 8219 shows a one-piece PesSint dress for a small girl. It is developed in plain blue serge with a striped silk forming the trimming bafds, collar and cuffs, For a child of 8 this dress requires 2% yards of 38 inch material, No, 8220--sizes 34 to 44. No. 8219--sizes 6 to 12. Each pattern 15 ¢énts. corner in her own home which she | can call her own, not even a bed. Scmetimes she shares one, some- times she sleeps on a couch in the din'ng room, sometimes on a cot in the kitchen; sometimes she occupies a spare room to keep it aired. But she has no place for her clothes, for her books, for hundred® and one things that girls like to collect and which they ought to be encouraged to collect. Wha ds more she has no place to study, and must bring her books into the general family sitting room where her parents and broth- ers and their friends collect to read or play cards or sing every evening. Is it to" be wondered at if the girl is drifting apart and seeking outside her home what she should find in it? bathing the lips in hot water. Ben- zoin and glycerine are efficacious, and powdered alum will dry up cold sores provided they have not been properly bathed in very hot water upon 'appearance, "Pale lips betoken languid eircul- ation. - It is better to stimulate the circylation than to resort to rouge for color. Few rouges are entirely harmless and painted lips add noth- ing to beauty. Continued use of glycerine and rosewater will aid in bringing back color. "Here is a formula for a healing cream: Twelve grams' cocoa butter, two grams white wax, one-half gram white geranlum, one-half gram ber- ramot." . t h of . of insipient baldness, or those equal- ly vexed by the coming of gray hairs while they are comparatively young, may effect a cure by partak- ing of foods which contain special nourishment for the hair-shaft. In order to know what foods to take, one must be acquainted wigh the actual composition of the hair rod. Although the: hair is alive, it is not sugiplied with nerves of sensa- tion, being insensible, so that it may be cut without pain. & Some have called it a vegetable, The art of being chic is entirely summed up in the few words, "At- tention to detail." It is here that the French woman excels. : The Canadian woman who has ac- quired it will tell you that she will take longer, perhaps, to settle a col- lar or fasten a tie than another wo- man will to put on a whole gown. 2 re is only She way of wearing ean dbnitely de div- classes--women who Womankind Jan into two. NOURISH THE HAIR Feople who are distressed by signs because the shaft begins as a sortplied by the air which we breathe: tof bulb and when it has reached its full length falls like a leaf. This, by the way, is one test of falling hair; if the hairs that come out are long, with a good length of so-called root, the fall is natural, for the hair has been pushed out by the forming of a new one in the sac. But, if the hairs are short when they fall, something is wrong; the hair is ill-fed and weak and needs attention. ; Of the gases which are found in the composition of human hair, two ~--oxygen 'and mnitrogen--are sup- dress and the women who. merely clothe themselves. The former are those who have the happy knack of putting on their clothes with just the small finishing touch that makes for perfection. Costly or wonderful of style or materials their garments need not!of be, for whatever it is, plain or elob- orate , high priced a ve, they always succeed ooking wi turned out well finished and "chic" to the least little item. The average Canadian woman to- ! and carrots. IF YOU WOULD BE CHIC {and perfection, BAA rm Ai therefore an abundance of fresh air is necessary for the well-being of the hair. The third gas, hydrogen, is found in water, in company with oxygen. So water is beneficial. Eesides these three gases there are found such salts as calcium, magnesium, sodium, potassium, also carbon and a small amount of iron. Therefore foods which supply :these substances should be eaten. They are butter, cream, fat meats, bread, berries, apples, oranges, lemons, on- ions, oatmeal and other cereal foods Yn Cne realizes that thé subtle art of "finish" is far more widespread than formerly, and that to-day there are few women whe do not achieve an atiractive appearance. ; Some women still make the mis- take of thinking that elaborateness construction and a genefal "fussy" effect stand for good dress ing, but most now fully understand the value of simplicity---that chie simplicity that is the most elusive of all qualities to obtain, v in itself a guarantee of A Joke on the Marquis Pall Mall Gazette. The name of the popular heir to the Dukedom of Atholl, sonorous though it is, was not taken sevicusly by a semtry during the South Afri- can war. The Marquis +: is said, returning to the lines one night and having forgotten . the countersign thought he n231 only say, 'Oh its all right: I'm Sullibardme."" But the sentry was r.ot to be cajoled. His crushing rejoinder was: "Noni of your fancy Zulu mames hevc' Soldier pink reproduces the bright red tones of English army uniforms and Chambertin is a lovely, magenta~ like shade such as might be: produc- ed by diluting red 'whe. * 8227 STRIPES AND PLAIDS ARE GREATLY FAVORED and Awning stripes they call the) although somewhat startling, t very smart and new. dre kers and tailors go to meet the spring with bright, boldly figured mas terials, as a relief, no doubt, for gray skies and chilly winds. be natural reaction. The new coating materials show these stripes and dress cottons and silks are even more deco-| rative. As usual, no doubt these will give place to more sober, duller effects as the season advances. An extreme ly effective coat is shown in No. $227. is a kimono design in raglan effect is fashioned of striped golfine; material closely resembles duve ERT Every season | it seems to]