Daily British Whig (1850), 19 Dec 1914, p. 21

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-dLerrons ® = = Bary & Practical E id Drerr Makingf Prepared Especially For This Newspaper ; by Pictorial Review Ja , CHILI'S PRINCESS SLIP. - with triple Dainty seven-gored princess slip for iris to wear under frocks of sheer ma- teriale. The attenuated figure given to fash- fot's child requires underwear that 1s Pictortad 10 conta. scant ip material and clinging In line This seven gored princess slip with in verted pleat at the center of the back may be developed in lawn, cotton crepe China oflk or satin. To make it requires 24 yards of 36 Inch or 2 yards of 45-inch material with 2% yards of embroidery or lace + inches wide for the rufMe Four yards of insertion and 3 yards of edging com piete the decorative requirements Fold the material, If it is 36 inches or wider, and lay parts of pattern' marked ITT" perforations on lengthwise fold and remaining pieces with dine of large ~O" perforaticns on a lengthwise thread of material Take the front gore; then join to this the side front. Do the same with back and side back. Close shoulder seam then close back seam from large "O° perforation to lower edge finish edges Hi: EE red above for opehing.. Farm inverted Dieat, creasing op slot perforations. bring folded edge to center-back seam and press. Sew collar to neck edge as notched. Close back seam of ruffle. Gather . upper - edge between double "TT™ perforations. Adjust to position on slip, centers and lower edges even. Review pattern No: 5863. Sizes 6. 8. 10, 12 and 14 years. Price ' Fone cdLerrons © rn Bary & Practical | Dresr Making Prepared Especially For This Newspaper by Pictorial Revien A UNIQUE HIM TRIMMING. Suggestion for making up sik and Wool pop.in {lito a frock of moderate Plotorial Review waist No. 5800 allies bust. Price. 15 cents. price and excellent style. im- med with dark velvet It is wr A frock moderate in price and good in style is shown in this design. |: may be developed tn silk and wool poplin | oie of the smart dark shades, trimame with velvet of the same. color. JLaslly the mast interesting featm ol the dress is the rt w ity uniqu hip trimming. To make the desi quires 3% yards 54-inch or 5 41-inch material. The four.plec ed skirt has a high walst-line aud trimmed with a bus girdle tasten: an adjusiaile fromt It the girdle is omitted, the néw pleat ed circular skirt reinains. The buck and front gores are placed on a lengthwise fold of the goods, wher cutting. This side gore arranged on a lengthwise thread will overlap the told ¢u edge. but the piecing can be obtain el from the strip of goods re mainin between the back and side gores. Ti girdle and adjustable front section : lnid. on a lengthwise thread of the mu terial, First join the gores, as marked, 1 making the dress, leaving edges to lef of ceénter-front free shove single lars perforation In Tront gore for packet. Pleat, creasing on lines of stut perforations, bring folded edges to small "o" perforations; stitch and press Adjust a webbing or a straight strip of cinvas two inches wide to position un- @rrneath upper edge of skirt for a stay stitch upper edges together. i un derneath un wy Turn under edges of adjustable fron: | on slot perforations and stitch. Gath er girdle on line of double small "wo perforations; stitch a tape 4 inches long under gathers. Adjust girdle on ud Justable front section, bringing corre- sponding single small "o" perforations tuzether and tack. Arrange.adjustable front section on front gore. centers and ui per edges even and tack. Fasten Bathered edges of girdle underneat! ®idé edges of adjustable front section whan closing. ' © The waist is effectively trimmed. with a vest of plain silk ahd has long, close- fitting set-in siceves. A The long sleeve is finished at a point vver the wrist. The transparent note in sieeves is very important. Chiffon pet and mousseline de sole will be the favorite materials this winter. ané in wi3¢ the socempanying frock is devel- oded in taffeta or satin. net would be Heal for the sleeve, Sometimes there i* a ryfile at the wrist 10 soften the fine and add to the atiractiveness of L1€ hands. Paiened Aad 30. 1907, y ' Sizes 32. 3, 36 35 40. 42 #4 and No. 3930. Sizes 20, 30. 36. 25. 30. 32 and 34 inclies waist Price, 18 ake It was for a long time (says "The; New York Tribune,") held that the corset originated at the courts of Italian princes, but as a mattér of fact, stays had already been known in antiquity. 'The Russian historican of civilization, Mme. Syebinoff, ad- duces in the "Moska Trali,"" some interesting evidence to this effect. Alciphton, the Greek epistologra- pher, who lived in the second cen- tury A.D. in his saticical hetaerae In Imperial Rome lacing became a general custom. The high schools of the art of getting rid of flesh--and the Roman ladies owing to their idle- ness tended towards corpulence were according to the Roman author Petronius, the baths, where painful massages removed the inconvenient fat. At that time they £ets that were pierced at various places. Through the holes ribbons were drawn and tightly tied together | " { invented cor- Everyone is aware of the fact that household linen, even _ of the best quality, will not last indefinitely. If one has embroidered and monogram- ed towels that are becoming thread- bare, instead of discarding them, hey can be "remadeled'-- if the embroidery is in good condition. If the towel has an embroidered! monogram on it, make a paper pat- tern, either a square, triangle, re- tangle or circle, whichever will en- tirely enclose the letters. Place the paper pattern over the monogram ind cut it out. Turn in the edges of the cut out portion and sew it :ither in the corner or centre of a 1ew towel. Any woman who has time and a very little money can do much to- ward the furnishing of her wardrobe with the aid of innumerable inex- 'ensive fabrics, some of which come Imost ready to be adjusted. For in ance, take the lengths of accordion- rlainted chiffons to be found in Ar every large shop. The narre i idthe make dairty ruffles for di ng petticoats in net or soft silk, or + :enethen or hida the frayed hein #n evening frock. Many of th icoader plaitines wl niake na on 'ra chai--if swung from a hip 7oke---for a short woman And, a svery thrifty person knows, the skirt the main thing these days A yodice for indoor wear is really on ly lengths of chiffon or net or 1aali- 1es, mounted upon a veiled saiin or silk" foundation. Some of the prot- test of the todices worn with wiite From November 1 to April 1 is a particularly hard season for the wo- man who possesses a delicate skin ome girls find that their hands and ace stay in a continual state of chap- ed ugliness from the beginning of he winter to the bitter end. There is nothing quite so ugly to he sight and to the touch as a chap- ed skin. Hands all broken open and acerated from the wind and face oarsened and roughened into a lotehy, sandpaper image of the old ace are revolting to look upon as vell as to feel. Powder bristles on he skin, giving it an appearance ke the back of a white hen with uffled feathers. How much better by far it is to ake a few simple precautions and hus avoid "all this unnecessary ugli- aess. Every girl can retain her soft, smooth skin through the entire win- 'er by spending just a few extra min- ites in preparing for it a guard 'gainst winter's winds. The first rule which each girl hould remember, is never to dry her oe No onc knows why the French de-y signers did hot advocate the full | <kirt for the evening, says a New! vork despatch, when they so strong- 'y approved of the wide skirt fou{ walking. Throughout the autumn hey zhotel skirts that were the] suai fn parrowness to any that had one "efore, :rd yet cne would think that the dance craze would have sug: gested the skirt that had three yards at the knees to give freedom to the movements of the dancers, Instead they did just the opposite with an exception here and there. Did this exception point the way to something newer before the winter was well advanced? It looks as though we will be wearing much wi- der evening skirts by the time March is here,.but in the meantime there is the present to consider. And skirts are still narrow. That fact may rejoice the hearts of those who have gowns on hand that. ars sufficiently good to serve another few months if they are given a twist] here and a twist there. Drapery must | be eliminated. Those puffed-out! pieces at the side that gave us the| . Canng For letters ridicules the fashionable la- dies who had themselves by night so tightly swathed in wet clothes that they could hardly breathe. By day the ladies wore line Its that were strained around the hips, in order to produce a 'wasp:like wajst. The physician Galen (about 130 A. D.,) had in Pergamum frequent occas- ions to.observe the evil effects of lac- Ing; even disortions of the spine and bone fractures he could ascribe to such: pressure of the hips. "They all now fain would be slim" Corsets Were Worn Ages Ago laments Terence, (botn about 183 B.C.,) in" one of his comedies: "and neither hips nor breasts have the women, for they are wrapt up in lin- en from head to heel. Three grapes and a glass of water is gll their nour- ishmerit. And if there really hap- pens to come along a lusty female figure then the chorus of women will immediately shriek: 'Lo, the huge woman! she looks like an athlete. And a body she has as an elephant calf. She'll one day wrestle in the ar- ena, the fat bug." NI These corsets often reached from the shoulders down to the thighs. We therefore see how near they came to! the modern corset. These corsets, though by no means cheap; were not durable, and had to be renewed often. However, they siirely attained their object of ren- dering thin. For excessively stout women the bust corsets were, how- ever, still too soft, and we read of a consul's wife who had herself in- caged in a framework of soft willow twigs, which she wore with silent The The edge may be concealed by a sow of chain, feather, or button hole, etitching. By this method you can bave a new towel with a monogram --without embroidering the letters. Usually towels wear thin in the centre; the other end, opposite the monogram, can be used for washing cloths, by cutting out the hest sec- tions and hemming, Embroidered centrepieces can also be "made over", if the embroidery is near the edge and the worn place in the centre. Take a piece of new material, shaped either square or cir- cular, according to the centrepiece; place in it the exact centre, turn in the edges and sew, using tiny stit- ready-made plaited skirts are made frem scarfs of chiffon figurel with Turkish or Arabic patterns in gold or silver thread, pressed inio the mwterial. Then thera are the ribbons wi ' by the bolt, are often to te pur- chased at genuine bargain pricas, "| The sash winths make the smartest sort ol borders for skirts and tunics aven if they ave not needed for one | of the long girdles which, crossing low over the hip: #l lar below the knees on the bac: the skirt Particulariy .«worth considering are the broad ribbons ij embossed, brocaded and appliqued effects, for these of themselves are wonderfully decorative. They make up into the supplementary waist-| coat which, turned back from the | neck into revers and lengthened into needle-points over the hips, do more! after are knot- of skin hastily after washing. This is the most important of all rules for winter, for more chapped skins. are due to a slip-shotdrying than to any othegpcause. Also the girl who is careful of her fomplexion should be quite sute that no soap remains on her skin. After washing with soap she should rinse all over with clear, fresh water. Then a brisk, thorough ; drying should take place with roarse bath towel if possible. A dry, rough bath towel is far better for thorough drying than the ordinary face towel which absorbs the water but does not take the moisture from the skin. If the girl is going out immediate- 'y after washing, a little pure alive il should be rubbed into the face ind a little camphorated ice into the hands. The pure olive oil is far bet- ter than ordinary cold cream for keeping the skin smooth, nor is it apt to grow a great deal of hair, as SO many persons are inclined to think. Before going out into the Lacing Very Common In Rome heroism until the straight line went out of fashion. Corsets, however, by no means fell {into oblivon. Although no longer serving as a means of losing flesh, the ladies still used them as bras- series for the support of the bodily forms. And the princes of the church of the first Christian era had to thun- der in their penitential against the corset, the use of which had become general in the Byzantin empire, ------ Worn Linens ches. Turn on the wrong side, cut away the worn place, and turn un- der and sew the edge. After this is finshed, sew on the right side a flat narrow braid to cover the stit- ching, or use a row of chain stitch. Another way to repair the centre- piece is to cut out of the new mater- ial a piece for the centre, hem it and ; lace or insertion | When this is finished baste it on the ! sew 'to the edge very middle, sew down the loose edge of the lace turn on the wrong side, and cut away the extra piece. The lace should be of a pattern that will either combine or match that used on the.edge--if the edging'is of lace. AN a NAA AA ess Ae, Suggestions To Freshen Up The Wardrobe toward dressing up a plain tailor- | made suit than any other accessory. Very pretty and practical are the brassieries of ribbon intended for use ,. |directly under net and lace blouses, These, made long enough to cover the waist line, are of .ten-inch-wide cash ribbon, used, crosswise, and held together with shoulder straps of four-inch broad ribbon. { To edge the necks and sleeveless arm-eyes of evening frocks and din- ner gowns there are strings of bril- liants, amethysts and pearls which are most effective under the electric lights. Also there are huge pop- pies of velvet -- red ones with black hearts, black ones with yellow hearts and some wholly of golden brown or French blue. They make stunning corsages for a black or a white gown. To Preserve Beauty, Guard Skin And Face over with powder. At night, after the face has been washed in warm water, the girl should rub in soma good cold cream and then remove it with absorbent "cotton. This will not only remove all the dirt of the day, but it will also leave the face soft and smooth for the night. Another point for the girl who is anxious to avoid a chapped face is to tabboo veils, unless they are of wide mesh. If they are closely wov- en the moisture from the breath will cling, wetting the veil, which in turn will chap all thé skin around the mouth and nose. More girls are troubled with chap- ped hands perhaps than with chap- ped faces. Very few persons stop to dry each fiinger thoroughly after washing, perhaps because the hands are washed so often through the day that it seems as if too much time were wasted in drying thoroughly each time. drying can quickly become a habit, wind a little of the oil sirould be rub- bed into the face and then dusted | ceedingly attractive, but old-fashion-: ad. The line must be straight or flar-| ing, but not broken up by horizontal | or irregular lines going around the figure. | Such an edict shelves many gowns, | it is true, unless one can see a clear way to abolish the drapery and pull it down into a clear-cut line from the waist to the feet. In some cases this can be dene by putting the extra fab- ric into open pleats at the sides just] above the hips. Callot did this on one of her most popular gowns in black silk, with a long tunic showing croes-bars made of black velvet. ! There is no longer any doubt that | trains will be worn on the majority | of gowns for the evening which are| not intended for dancing. One sees! them everywhere. They are not es-! pecially graceful, and, therefore, twist and roll up on themselves in a manner that could not be called pre- | Possessing. If the skirts of 1850 were back in fashion, short and flaring to! an extent of six or more yards, then the trains. will Jisaviear. . for the) two ideas do pot go together. Many! #ill think that the prettier style has been sacrificed to Abe uglier. One however, and it is a useful habit to acquire in winter, Are Still Making Nasrow Skirts thing is true for the moralist to as sert, which, is, that a woman can 2p pear more modest in the former than in the latter. We have not had o fashion for centuries that left a wo man so uncovered below her kner as the modern evening skirt. One would think that the posses: fon of thin arms would suggest to ¢ woman that the Greek method of holding up the gown with a shoulder clasp, omitting the sleeves, which was not then invented, was not for her; but the consciousness of ugli- ness in any especial part of her an: tomy evidently does not deter a wc- man from exposing it if fashion de mands that she must. Really, the new method of omitt- ing the sleeves and decorating the shoulders in a semi-barbaric manner is only fit for the lovely army. It Was never meant for the scrawny wo- man whose, elbows are pointed and reddened, But, unfortunately, she i: often the one to adopt it. * As the fashion goes now, it is the smartest way to finish off a bedice unless one adopts the lomg. tight sleeves of lace which This way of thorough ] 1 Home ess Lesrons Ear & Practical ne Dr Making . Prepared Especially For This Newspaper i sermons | the passion for by Pictortal Review awe TN DARK Young matrons and college xirls will find this model both smart axl prac tical. It looks well in serge or repp. The dark shades of red are very solt and becoming. therefore find great fa- vor with women of youthful appear- ance. Ideal for the young matron or the college girl 1s this dress in beet color silk repp. It is made Without a #uin2 and has a deep girdle which may *ctorial Review pattern No. 5982. RED REPP. ~ _ be of the same or a contrasting ma- terfal. The average size required ¢'y yards of 64-inch or 6% yards of 44-inch The development of the design is not difficult. First close under-arm seam 4s notched; thén close shoulder seam Gather lower edge of waist and adjust tabs between small "0" perforations at front edge of right front. Sew stay to lower edge of walst, centers even, small ' "0" perforation at under-arm seam, Sew flare collar to neck edge as notched. Sew standing collar to shield as notch- ed. adjust, bringing large. "Q" pérfora- tions in shield and In front together. Close sleeve seam as notched to large "0Q" perforation. Gather on cross lines of small "o" perforations. Adjust sleeveband over. gathers, single and double small "o" perforations even, lap- ping sleeveband for closing Sew In armhole. seam at notch in front. easing any fulness Slash center-front of front gore pof skirt to large "0" perforation for open ing. Take up dart in back gore as pers: forated Join gores as notched Pleat extension; creasing on slot perfora- tions, bring fold to small "o™ perfora- tions and press. Turn girdle under right side edze at notches, gather 3% inch from foid. gath- er left side edge between double "TT" perforations. Adjust boning about § inches long underneath gathers at left side edge and at center-front and cen- ter-back. Single small "o" perfora- tions indicate center-front, double "oo" perforations, tentér-back. Single large "O" perforation indicates upper edge of girdle. Adjust, centers even. ' The less expensive cotton volles are used for this model with great success. A foundation may be added and the full skirt be changed into a tupic it pre ferred. Sizes 14 to 20 years. Price 15 cenis Gary &Practical Homé Dress Making Lesrons Prepared Especially For This Newspaper : by Pictorial Review SMART AND BECOMING. 6903 A new model for growing girls. As illustrated it is carried out in plaid taf- feta and blue satin. Less materials may be used, however. This is an original design for a girl's frock and looks well carried out in a plaid and a plain material. Dark blue CUTTING GUIDE i eatin and plaid taffeta in which blue and green intermingle form an effective color scheme. Two yards of 36-inch taffeta and 2% yards of 36-inch satin are sufficient for the dress. For the underbody 1% yard of lining 27 inches wide are required. The back has large armholes and ex- tends below the waist-line in tunic ef- fect. This part of the pattern is ar- ranged on an open width of the ma- terial, with the cuff, vest, batk gore and sleeve, which is in ome with. the "dnderarm facthg. The muterial'is fold- ed before placing on it the front, collar and front gore 'These are laid a lengthwise fold. 1It'is a'simple hatter to get the straight belt out of the re- maining silk, The underbody js first made; then fitted. Then close underarm and sleeve seams, finish sleeve wigh a cuff, or plain piping and adjust to position on under-| ' For outside, adjust vest, notches centers even, leaving left side free be low double small "oo" perforation in vest. Center-front of vest indicated by small "0" perforations. Close under- 'arm seam as notched from

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