Aside from the discriminating se- lection of accesories the important factors fn frocks of to-day are the neck finish, armhole arrangement and width of the skirt. The collar may be low and rolling or high and flaring; it may be even no collar at all, since buttonholed scallops are used so effectively, but always is the armhole easy in fit and appearance and the skirt adequate in widtn. There are many variations of the short jacket theme, none more at- tractive tham the coatee of taffeta which is exploited in connection with tub frocks. Partjeularly chic is a design nipped in at the waist and fin- ished with a softly pleated peplum that is really a continuation of the waist. There is a narrow girdle, of self material to conceal the fact that there really is no separate peplum. The vest is an unusual affair in white organdy trimmed with black jet but- tons. Organdy, it must be remem- bered, is ome -of *the most popular materials of the season for details-- particularly cuffs, collars and vests. It is used extensively also for inde- pendent ruffles for skirts of tubbable fabrics, On the non-washable frocks ~ oh VOVTY IPT YYYVIVYTYYVIY YVYYY its effectiveness is increased by the addition of bindings or bias folds of moire silk stitched along the lower edges of the organdy flounces. Stripes continue a la mode be cause there is veritably no end to their possibilities for artistic and o:i- iginal arrangement: All of the tan shades are eminent- ly modish, but there is a growing demand for gray, especially in taff- eta, pussy willow silk and similar soft, lustrous materials. Quaker gray taffeta is adorably pretty, and one finds it used to the best possible advantage in a summer frock trim- med only with cream-white batiste. The skirt is short and wide, having a deep hem, with two corded tucks above. A deep Dutch neck accommo- dates the vest of batiste, surmount- ing which is a round collar. The fullness of the waist is drawn away from the bust and formed into tiny pleats at the under-arm. The frock is one that cam be copled very suc: cessfully, being as simple in design as it is gracefully in effect. The white serge tailored suit is a big item in the wardrobe of the sum- mer girl. There are many who ~~ Aahb THE DAILY substitute, linen for serge as a mat- ter of economy, but, after ali, serge has many advantages that washable materials Jack. It launders as well as cotton--if treated carefully--and when the usefulness of the suit is ended because of the unseasonable- ness of white it can be dyed and us- ed for early fall wear. In all probab- ility the Joose-fitting jackets and pleated skirts that are fashionable now will be worn after the frosts fall. All of the odd shapes of silk are duplicated in linen, several charm- ing tomes of gray and tan being shown. Becoming alike to slender and stout women is a frock in dawn gray linen, having a waist that closes at the neck in front, but slopes away below the bust to disclose a vest of white pique. The short sleeves are finished with trim little cuffs of black linen, outlined with white. The skirt is of comfortable width with two pleats in front, 'one at each side and one at the back. To the very slender all things are possible this season, yet even the slender figures are taking on slightly more waist curve and are a trifle BRITISH WHIG, A ected Designs for PTT TTT TT YY YT Y TTY T ITTY a ~Q 6326 more rounded in all lines, save shoulders, than they were last year. Verily the extreme blouse and shape- liness of frocks is passing, though, one still sees the blouse of less ag- gressive lines. When it comes to ey- ening frocks the fitted bodice seems racre in evidence than ever. Designers are taking advantage of some classic notions in the modes of the day. The double tunics with points at the sides recall classic garb and are accompanied by a Grecian chemise, held in place under the bust with black velvet, which passes over the shoulder and fastens in front with an ornament that is often a ca- meo. Pockets are the proper thing these days, thodgh not always used. Tae round and square patch pockets are giving place to slot pockets, some- times back hip pockets in sure en- cugh masculine fashion, while a new patch pocket is cut diagonally in half and stitched along its slant- ing edge. Pocket bags are becoming an ad- Junet to the skirt, and the swinging bags are often made of the same fab- pric as the dress, attached to the wails: every bottle a lump of loaf sugar. "Raspberry wine, to make, etc., a through a fine sieve,;and put into a vessel not too -when-it-has OLD ENGLISH FRUIT BEVERAGES "The Gentleman Gardener," by the Rev. Mr, Stevenson, a small volume, published in London, in 1764, in a chapter entitled "Some Profits From the Fruits of the Garden, ete.," gives the fellowing recipes, which may be worth trying now. "Of currant berries is made a very pleasant wine, thus: Boll water for half an hour, and to every quart, when cold, put six pounds of ripe currants well bruised; when it has been stirred up for two or three days 'strain it, and put to every four quarts three pounds of sugar, then barrel it, and within a month or six weeks bot- He it off. You may, at the bottling, put into every bottle a lump of loaf r. 5 "Gooseberry wine, thus: Boll wa- ter, and having bruised the ripe fruit to a pulp put to every gallon 2 quarts warm water, stir them 'well together and strain after a day a cloth; to every gallon of the liquor put two pounds of sugar; then bung or tie it close up in a convenient ves- sel far a month or two till you think of two through | Then bottle and put into Boll water as in making currant ber- ry wine, and order in accordingly.; So you may make wines of mulber- ries, strawberries, cherries (but take heed in stone fruit not to break the stones, which will make the liquor bitter) and plums, only observing more or less to sweeten as the tart- ness or sweetness of the fruit re- quires. S ; "Elderberry wine t6 make, not in- ferior to hermitage claret: . Take four gallons and a half of water and a peck of elderbe clean picked from the stalks; boil begin to dimple; then strain off the liquor, and to every gallon put two pounds of sugar, and boll it an hour; let it cool in a tub, not in the Jou balled it yr for a t taste 3 S00N a8 or mew milk warm, make a toast of white bread and spread yeast upofit and put into the liquor to work days in the tub, it once or done working stop it close, In three weeks' time it will be fit to bottle, when add to each bottle a lump of loaf sugar, When ripe, drink, which it will be in three months' time. "Apricot wine, to make; To every quart of water put a pint and a half of apricotts, not overripe; wash clean first, and cut them in pieces; boil them in water till it be stro of them; strain the liquor through a sieve, and to every quart put four or five ou sugar; boil again, ai pour it into an earthen pot; when it as stood 24 Tours bottle, and to each bottle put a lump of loaf sugar; it will be soon fit for drinking, but will not keep long." Says All Women Shoald Marry. It seems quite the fashionable thing these days to discredit Cupid. The young woman no longer looks at him with wistful eyes. They say "woman's mission" is to be some- thing more in life than a wife and 'She must go into the world SATURDAY, AUGUST 7, 1915. dud | belts after the order of a bag. Some : prota § ness leaves ber nat al element. se. ERE Ei Den. adi Curt vow with cord, and they are equally use- ful for day and evening. They are pointed in the center, shorter at the side, and drawn in by the cord with a full top. They are very effective in striped fabrics. Sometimes lit- le pockets are introduced on to the curious cloth belts have these poc- ket bags, with the flaps falling over the belt. Embroidery figures on some of them, also satin stitch, and open eyelit work. Novelties of every kind predomin- ate. The newest thing in handker- chiefs, and there are new things in these accessories, as well as in any other, are those of voile. Of course the finest of voile is used for the pur- pose, §o that it will not be disagree- able to use. One style of handkerchief is of tolid pale pink voile and is Pound with a narrow white hem. Blue, lav- ender and green voiles are used In the same way. A number of the nandkerchiefs have a very wide bor- der of white around a solid portion of color, 3 very unusual! decoration of one men can't be happy. Iam a widow and know what love and protection mean. I want to tell every wife who has a husband how well off she is. Is there any greater happiness in the world or a greater "mission" than a mother with a baby? E I have been a business woman, working twelve hours at a desk; a small compensation is the success you achieve compared with the home life. Business life is annatural for woman. The woman who enters bu- ERAS AS " dat 14 ailed Dress Budget voile handkerchief is a figure of a woman dressed in street costume and leading a dog. The latter is embroidered in black, while the fig- ure of the woman is embroidered in a combination of gay colors. Fancy decorations lend a luster to pumps and slippers this season, al- though the shapes are not strikingly new. The novelties are entrusted to trimmings and combinations of material, Various strap arrange- ments are used upon street shoes, as wéll as upon house and dance slip- pers, but they never look as well on the street as the simpler cuts. A glove fitting pump laced like the high boots on the inside is finding a degree of. popularity, but has little to recommend it, since the inside lacing does not, as in the high boot, give a smooth surface over the instep and around the ankles. Extra high tops are used upon some of the kid boots in deference to the very short skirts of the ultra modish frocks, and even above these extra high tops the swirl of those full short skirts in the house some- times reveals interesting experiments anent silk hosiery, but there are de- t sex. Every decent woman has the | material instinct. You will hear women with busi- ness aspirations say "kitchen-malds". Just imagine a woman expressing herself so, as if the taking care of a home isn't one of the greatest forms of life's work. Can any one make a comparison bending over. a*desk in one position all day and becoming a spinster for the sake of saying she is a "'success in business?" Let me advise every girl to marry, even if "he" isn't cley- pe of A Sn A 5 esa PAGE ELEVEN --_ grees of audacity, and some of the young things who subscribe to short skirts and boots temper the vision to the onlooker by wearing silk hose to match the boot or the frock. Guide To Patterns. The fashions ghown on this page are Pictorial Review designs, Num- bers and sizes are as follows: Waist No. 6331. Sizes 32 to 44 inches bust. Skirt No, 6102. Sizes 22 inches waist (Shown tWice,) Waist No. 6325. Sizes 32 to inches bust. Waist No. inches bust. Bkirt No, 6300. inches waist. Costume No. 6326, Sizes 32 to 44 inches bust and 14 to 20 years. Costume No. 6314. Sizes 32 to 48 inches bust. Costume No. 6304. 46 inches bust, Price of each number, 15 cents. Pictorial Review patterns on sale by local aganets. by local agents. to 32 414 1" 34 6302, Sizes 32 to Sizes 22 to Sizes 32 to Let girls wake up to the fact that marriage holds the greatest happi- ness that life ean possess. These are the sentiments of a widow who knows and who will marry again when ask- ed. --Letter by E. Johnson, in Néw York World. ! Miss Elsie DeWolfe, the noted dec- orator of New York, has been engag- ed by a large automobile concern to design the inside decorations for their high-priced cars. The Women's Trades Union league 4. a labor v bs 8 in New : wo Fe 0 Lal Re Ei La SEN. bs your getting the Same pare Cane Suir of extra that your would get in the ' You can aiso get Lantic Sus 00 Pond Ser prefer. Don't risk