- f per-F EET 5808 BEG GE 5568 TB BOE GG ET TET ES a NSLS an Nos. 6407:6185. Each season the women who wants | rous, shimmering greens. to keep posted regarding the last word in materials and colors has to rétrace her steps and start all over . again, for there are new things to learn and new problems to solve. One clever authority on. fashion is responsible for the statement that a knowledge of history and eurrent events is the safest preliminary for a thorough acquaintanee with the modes. With this as a background it is an easy matier to follow the eyolution of fashions and adjust them to the requirements of well-groumed women, There seems some basis for this belief, too, when one reads the list of the correct colors for fall and win: ter. 'Whe, unvegsed on conditions in Europe, would appreciate the timeliness of "Belgie -blue, Petro- grad, Belgioue gray, submarine, Maubeuge. [italian brown, and Dun- Kirk gray? Along with these are shown shades more familiar in name, but nore the less fashionable: Afri- "ean Brown, Morocco, reseda, taupe, mais, Nile, Welio, goblin, admiral and navy tse and crow black. | Colors for afternoor and evening frocks in- clude Delaware peach, Bordeaux red, ivory, castor, white, black and lust- Of course there is nothing so fashionable for general wear as blue serge. This, with silk, is the super fashionable material for the develop- ment of Autumn frecks. Many of the smart mew prificess frocks are made of Joffre blue serge, and a par- ticularly good model is trimmed with a vest of velvet, "above which appears a high, flare collar of white linen, tiny bands of fur and a stitch- ing of narrew braid. For the wom- an with trim Agure the princess mod- es are doubly 'weltome, but while the princess, frock is back with & ven- geance it 'is more than modified, and it hobnobs with the tight-fitted bo- dice, with 'coat-back effects and with a variety of other novel modes that are featured for early fall. [In ad- dition it takes .on military lines which are emphasized by trimmings of flat silk braid and metal buttons. © That the military influence still hangs on, 'likp the war that started it, is evi¥ dent in many clever new costumes, both for street and house wear. White" serge 'is going to be worn until very jate in the fall, and in- deed, its continued vogue is prediet- ed for the winter. Really stunning is a frock copied from one of the im- ported frocks, the white serge form- ing an elegant background for bits of blue and geld embroidery. The skirt is elose fitting over the hips, but shows a decided fulness at the sides where a stitched inverted pleat is released below a trimming of blue and gold buttems. 'The walt has a deep peplum stitched with bias folds of the same material and a vest and revers of white corded silk. Vests and adjustable peplums are among the startling details of smart frocks, . Black chiffon velvet is us- ed principally for the vests, and in most instances they age surmounted by flare collars of gauze or metal cloth, the idea being to make the contrast as marked as possible. Pep- lums aré circular in shape to corres- pond with the prevailing lines of smart skirts and frequently resemble modified tundes. Pointed and seal- loped peplums, thie scallops showing both round and square outlines, are extensively used on the 'waists of taf- feta frocks. sis, Whipcord is one of the very: popu- lar' materials for Autumn and in the new Belgique gray is charming fot princess and semi-princess frocks. Trimmed with braid of simple des- "ign these modely dre appropriate for afternoon. Wear and even for small dinners and theatre partjes. Often the addition of a ch Ee crepe de Chine blouse enhances\the dressy ef- fect of these frocks. Exceedingly smart dresses are also fashioned of chiffon poplin, which has a lustrous finish and smooth, round cord that make it admirable for service. Of the virtues of taffe- ta so much has heen sung, however, {that there remains little to be said The princess frock with braid head- ipg the circular flcunce is carried out in green chiffon poplin, while costume next to it with peplum blouse is fashioned of fray taffeta. The wearing qualities of cordu- roy make it popular tliis season. The last illustration in the group is of a frock in Morocco brown cordur y. trimmed with brown velvet and silk braid. The waist shows another version of the peplum, as it appears on, modish Fall frocks. The long semi-straight lines of the smartest serge frocks shown so far are really very gracéful, and the sim- pligity of their detail adds to their effectiveness: The two models might be describ- od 'as fairly representative. One is in fine fark blue serge, the ofher in the. _ 8 ATW iA RY } A | & Ae QAWW Lr 9 A A i A Ap dh A rp FS de pr Ae A eh A ' 7 4 73 ¥ "Nos. 6415-6185. white, and each has its toheh of black. The general silhouettes are similar, high collar line, close shoul- der line, slightly curved normal waist-line, smoothly fitted hips soft- ly flaring sk'rt bottoms. Both are cut high across the chest, and thé dark frock fastems in the baek. It is trimmed in rows of narrow black braid held at each end by a small bone button and cleverly applied, though in small quantity. The white serge frock has not even braid for trimming, but its high collar, which can be turned back to leave the front of the threat free, if one prefers to wear it so is faced with black velvet, and black silk ar- rows are embroidered as a tailored finish tothe waist seams. Both frocks have an unbroken princess line in the middle front, and this feature is repeated in so many of the smartest looking new smodels of this class that the item seems.sign- fficant. Still, girdles, bodices end- ing at the waist-line or a little below and belts, narrow or broad, are all in evidence; : If you are looking for an ultra smart hat for the early Fall days se: lect one of purple velvet and embrei- der it with white or some light col! 'naments applied "terial for early fall headgear. ored wool, so that there will be a contrast between hat and trimming. Theré is much black velvet in the new millinery, of 'course. It ig us- ed for all types of hats from the small toque to the big mushroom or wide brimmed shape and is, as al: ways, becoming and adaptable, so it makes a good first Fall hat. A very little narrow brim sailor of black velvet with a wreath of gay embroidered flowers in*many colors running flatly around the erown is one of the clever things shown, and another good small black velvet mo- del has heavily embroidered bead er- to the crown in front and back with two fine lines of beading funning around the crown on tire edges of a cross pleated bund of black satin. Feather breasts encircle many small bats. with or without-brim, and are the only trimmings, save for lit- tle "feelers" curling out -and up from among the feathers er wings made in one with the breast trim- | ming Felt is the super-fashionable ma- Not only sport hats are of felt, but also smart sailors and turbans for tailor- ee) ¥ { b % % ashionable Materials For Autumn ARN rin Oz No. 6419. Guide To Patterns. The fashions shown on this page are Pictorial Review designs. Num- . bers and sizes, with "appropriate braiding and embroidery. designs, are as follows: Costume No. 6409. Sizes 32 to 44 inches bust. Braiding No. 11516. Waist No. 6407." Sizes 32 to 46 inches bust. . Skirt No. 6185. Sizes 22 lo 34 inches waist. (Shown twice.) Embroidery No. 11643. Princées Costume No. 6417. Sizes 32 to 42 inches bust. Embroidery No. 12073. Costume No. 6043. ° Bizes 32 to 44 inches bust. Braiding No. 11452. Walst No. 6415. Sizes 32 to 44 inches bust, (Skirt No. 6185, men- tioned above.) Embroidery No. 12123, Costume No. 6419. . Sizes 32 to 46 inches bust. Embroidery No. 11451. Guimpes No. 6135, Sizes 36 to 44 inches bust and 14 te 20 years. Price 10 cents, - Price of each npinber :15 cents, unless otherwise given. Pictorial Review designs en sale | The Newest Notes of Science | A new walking stick can be quick- ly transformed into a caméra tripod. Experiments in France have shown that sulphur ig valuable as a soil fer- tilizer. . 3 An attachment has heen invented for holding a Wrist watch on the straps of a hand bag. Natives of Colombia use an oil ob- tained from allegator fat to cure pul- monary diseases, i 3 A mechanical' blotter has been in- vented that dries the ink on a large surface instantly, . t new German blowpipe uses a mixture of air and vapor from bes zol, petroleum or alcohol. Sey An Oklahoma inventor's nut erack- er is formed lke a human head, the jaws doing the work. Coffee first' was used in Europe at Venice short'y before the end of the sixteenth century. . A spring gun has been invented to cast a fisherman's line farther than can be done by hand. ? English chemists have succeeded Wn 'producing substitotes for hard rubber and leather from seaweed. 'A flexible meta) awning patented by two Texans 'can be lowered over "a window to protect it from five. Paper Is spun into thread and woven into a substitute for jute tex- (Eh tiles by a process invented in- Bohe- mia. . » : A bottle patented by an Indiana inventor has four springs projecting from the top to hold a cap in place. Venezuela has formally adopted the metric system and made it_com- pulsery in its coufts and public of- Adding a teaspoenful of glycerine to a gill of water makes a' cement useful for many purpases about a household. TERY Deposits of potash found in two have been developed. . With all the features of the high chairs a new holder for a baby can of rdin- ary ¢hatr, ~ sea "ma A factory in Burope that uses er- dinary tar as 'a basis is turning out about 200 toms af artificial rubber a day. Fok % States last year was the greatest on record, amouating to 4,872,856 short tons. ~ , . > To 'meet tidal variations a' Ger- man car ferry Has ® geek that can "provinces that promise to yield large returns when | The salt production of the United| TE and tagkle with which one man can handle loads of 1,000 pounds and two men 4,000 pounds. 3 An electric machine fer cleaning steamship boilers, working some what like a drill, has been patented by two Swedish inventors. ' By cutting notches in the 'Shank om more thaw di A capstan is built into a new block boars | of a hammer head under the claws an inventor has brought ont a toel that will serve as a wrench. "Australia mainfains a school for boys who desire to become expert farmers, but lack the. means to pay fer proper 'instruction. Indiana inereased its production nD training of peétrolenm last year for the first time in ten years, the state's output being 1,335,456 barrels. An electric storage battery loco- motive, automatic in its operations, is giving excellent results in many ways in a. German coal mine. In a new odorless garbage can re- ey ed sireet suits. fuse is placed on a shelf and scrap- ed into the receptable by turning a handle without removing the lid. A complete carpenter shop, cluding in- chinery driven by a gaso- line "has been mounted on hpels by a bullder in an Indiand 1 a6" that it can pe taken Wher: by local agents. 2 ever he has work to do. While the average amount of .wa- ter used daily in cities of the United States varies from 50 to 150 gallons per capita, there is an almost uni form consumption of a little- more than ball a gallon for each person: fr drinking. : 2 5 - i © ¢ . ; « it is pure cane sugar, packages. Sad lou for the LANTIC Red Ball on cack rocks. Shed 3 4 Ltt sce ! mA HITE A