It requires more than the genius of the traditional Philadelphia law- yer to reconcile the statements about poor husiness conditions with the of that is sweeping into the show- rooms of smart designers.:. If there is no money with which fo buy them, why produce nlodes that are irresis tible, Surely the business depres sion must be psychological to a large degree. Every fashionable dressmaker is busy, and the prospects of a record season are bright. It remains, then, for the woman of fashion to make a choice of the styles that have been desighed for her various needs " This, too, is"a problem, for, when all around she sees what is beautiful, how discriminating the taste must be to embody an adequate supply in a limited quantity! The frock built upon simple lines | certainly is strongly entrenc in! the favor of fashion's leaders It lends itself to so many charming va- riations that it may well be copsid ered the foundation steng of all smart' dressing. Particular atten tion is paid just now to frocks for in formal wear, Suitable alike for morning and is a dress.of dark brown repp trimmed with silk in the same shade The full circu- lar skirt has invertéd pleats at the sides and back, and with it is worn a smart waist that hangs in pleated effect below a belt of silk. There is a vest of organdy, although the front of the waist is outlined with bands of the silk trimming, aug- mented by little military looking stitchings of braid with buttons at ohe end. A rather high, turn-over collar finishes the neck. In velvet this design would be equally smart, especially if trimmed with fur. For the late autumn the long-haired furs in three to four-inch widths will be in greatest demand. Opossum in the natural color, and also in brown, will be a leader. Another good opossum effect is the skunk color. in which the shading varies fram the tip to the root of the hair affer the manner of skunk. Beaveks will be especially smart on broadcioths. But perhaps the newest and most strik- ing effect is seen in the use of krim- mer, which is particularly rich when worn on velvet. One of the advan- tages possessed by krimmer is that it is practically impossible to imi- tate, and the nearest substitute is far removed in appearance from the genuine, Checks, stripes and plaids are com- bined with velvet, satin and silk in endless ways to accomplish some of the smart frocks for early fall. There is a great vogue for smart waists of velvet to accompany skirts of con- trasting material. The interest be- tween waist and skirt is emphasized by a hem of velvet on the skirt or bands of the material applied in some original way. Voiles, twilled silks, taffetas, etc., are most effective trimmed with the corded tacks which are applied. in so many novel ways. Striking costumes include a full skirt and waist, with revers and collar of widely contrast- ing material, the revers extending below the belt. v In girls' clothing there are lines and lines--good lines and bad lines, concealing lines and revealing lines ~--and it remains for the discriminat- ing mother or young girl herself to select those which will garb her to the best advantage. One thing above all should be avoided, that of dressing the young girl in really adult lines. The grown-up designs should be adapted rather than co- pied. Empire lines in various modi fieations are always suitable and at- tractive upon young girls. For the coming school days a very good look- ing dress is made with a plain, cir- cular skirt and blouse that could easily be called a middy, if the girdle were not transplanted just under the bust-line, The blouse has ap- plied box-pleats at either side of the front and back, and the front is-laced together at the base of a standing collar. Serge, linen, gabarine or silk may be used for the model; but economic and hygienic considerations suggest a skirt of serge and blouse of linen, Norfolk effects are also used to good advantage for schoof girls' frocks. It is well to make the Nor- folk separate from the skirt, thus making laundering a comparatively simple matter: Next to the Norfolk jacket in popular favor comes the bolero, and nn is doubtful if, on _secoud thought, one would not be justified in stating that the bo- avalanche new fashions constantly hed afternoon \ lero is quite as desirable as the Nor- Tolk, . It is not so warmth-giving, therefore will "answer the needs of the first cool days of autumn in a most satisfactory manner. - The materials used for junjor modes are ouite the same as those used for older models. Voile is in fxpensive, wears well and launders easily. It is fashionable in stripes, which, however, must be distinguish ed in their appropriateness by o'r width, the awning effects being en- tirly 00 wide for ' growing girls. Voile frocks are trimmed with Puci- tan collars and cuffs, and nothing is ER more fashionable for the girl betwean six and sixteen years of age. Tiny pockets upon blouses and skirts, sus- penders and abbreviated fiichu trim- mings for the netk are smart €.- junior 'frocks and can be used to splendid advantage in "fussing ua" a plain design, d Several blouses are always needed to augment the school girl's ward robe, ' Natural color linen, poagse and basket cloth make very desir able blouses. If ornameénted wita small tucks arranged il groups and & line of amber butfons are sewed from the top of the collar te the EE ---------- m-- st A Wot bos AE Soi im MF waist-line the result is sure to be quite satisfactory. Cotton crepe is delightfully mans ipulated in frocks for formal occa ions. A dainty design is in figured material, having a long blouse wais : belted under the arms with two heavy silk coxds and finished at the bottom with a wide fold of taffeta. The circular skirt also hemmed with-taffeta. There is an under- blouse of striped silk, and turning away from the vest are tiny revers of aflet, Quite wide is another model of voile trimmed with a double row eof full skirt is cut slightly. circular, Le N 6299. embroidered scalloping and having an embrbidered coatee. - The very and the embroidery used in the de- corations is workell im. eyelet and solid. satin embroidery used in the decoration is worked in eyelet and solid satin embroidery. Corded tucks play an important part in the ornamentation of some skirts of taffeta--for this silk is ex- tremely fashionable for girls of all ages. . Scme skirts are stitched with deep homs, above which are three corded tucks. Accompanying them are little Eton jackets puckered at i 6346, either side of the front above a wide girdle and worn over batiste guim- pes: Guide to Patterns. The fashions shown on this page are Pictorial Review designs. Num- bers and sizes cre as follows: Waist No. 6362, Sizes 32 to 46 inches bust. Skirt No. 6341. - Size® 22 inches waist. Waist No. 6356. inches bust. Skirt No. 6345. ches waist" - to Sizes 32 to Size 220 34 Costume No. 6370, inches bust: ©hild's dress No. 6299. 14" years. . Dress No. 6335, Sizes 6 to 16 years, } Dress No. 6344, Sizes 4 to 1M years, Chevron design No, 11262. Price 10: cents. Dress No. 6346, years. Dress No, 6338, years. M Price of each number, 17 fos. Pictorial 'Review patterns on sale by local agents. ; Sizes 32 to 46 Sizes 4 to Sizes § to 16 Sizes 1 '0 @ Sia CROCODILE: TEARS FROM THE KAISER "No Hope For Final Redemption of -Franct"--A Remarkable 3 'he recounted some day in a secret book, "During the half-hour's interview the Emperor, despite his repugnance, recounted - facts "the truth of which no one can doubt, confirmed as they are. under solemn oath, and which leave no hope whatever of the final redemption of France." : With tears the Kaiser declared Interview. {France 40 be a doomed country. Fen- Paris, Sept. 15.--A despatch from Basle, Switzerland, to Le Temps says that a South German Socialist nameq Anton Fendrich has just published a pamphiet wherein he relates an in- | terview with the Kaiser at the battle- front in'northern France, Fendrich eXpresses belief in the sincerity of the Kaiser's desires to preserve peace be- fore the rupture of last year. : "Concerning the French," says the writer, "the Emperor hoped, as we all did at first, to conquer their re- sistanée. Like other nations, we held too high an opinion . of the French. They are a people in de- cline. Their manner of -making war is full of nameless horror, -of the most frightful acts, which can only. CASTORIA In Use For Over 30 Years Te wo drich adds: x "These tears expressed shame as well as grief at such demoralization in a people which had always been regarded as chivalrous and noble, but had now become the victim of a fix- ed idea." The Kaiser ended by saying that a consequence of the war would be the unification aug purification of Ger- thins many so that she would become apt for the historic task incumbent upon her as the heart of Europe, and lay the foundation for a new European humanity. : : BRYAN MAY GO ABROAD Talks Of a eh Europe To Stop ; ar. Philadeiphic.' Sept. 15. --William Jennings Bryan has signified his wil- lingness to go to Eurofie and attempt to bring about peace. th Whether or not he will go will he decided on at a conference hetween the publishers of foreign language itewspapers and himself in Washing- tony 'on September 17th. he a hy y- of an Jalan newspaper here from Dr. William Forge, of Brooklyn, whe heads the movement to have Mr. Bryan try to stop the war, The announcement was accompani- ed by an invitation to attend the com- ference. Col. Bryan will defray his ¥ own expenses. Sod (Publis nually) 8 ables traders t roaghout fo communicate direct wit Ree "MANUFACTURERS & in each class of a complete commercial ide' to Loa- don and its suburbs the Directory con listy of r EXPORT MERCHANTS with the gouds they ship, d the Colunial and Foreign Markets they supply: - . LINES 'anged under the Ports to which oy sail. and in@icating the approxim- ve Sailings; a amasnet nar n the ir 1 naistrial Seater: of the Yates {] ition will be |] Besides being y of the current forwartod tal Order ® rs tise their trade advertisements from gencles can adver. for H or larger c » THE 3 Abchureh Lane, London, & 'home. on receipt of iff "| ISTEN" 'Food when properly Cooked, Can be served First Class, And the way to obfain: it is to COOK WITH GAS. Drop a card to the Office of Works, Queen Street, or 'phone 197, and have the GAS installed . in your "Water Depts. la rcepiona SOWARDS _ Keep Coal New York Red Plums, 11 Green Gages essen -- fie ow Suing Blue, hi h; $1.25 | Whnioigh: ft inxs | White, high; reg. .-e vba "aww "we IE -- Sale of Running and | fine when you These are Ang Crawford Peaches 0c. Per as) Blue Plums, 11 qt. Basket ....... ..ccooecson.. 60C qt. Basket ...... ....- Oc per box ais is aie Naan . gam to any part of the city. Phone 1405 ----e cesta Por Too vere... For $1.00 ...For $1.00 vies... For $1.25 are on the boat or out "even wesc sesame LE - el LL ll 6 ii i --_--