éron--amia °° ¢ Hall Te moving of 1916 is no more like the spring suit of 1916 than a straight line is like a circle. The variety given to tailored costume is delightful, and in most instances the fashionable dressmakers remain true to the idea of simplicity. This does imply that there are no elabor- a tailleur frocks, however, for fan- cy sometimes runs riot here, as in dresses for d occasions. For the average Ww who must make one suit a season answer her needs, there are designs that may be worn with the greatest pleasure, besauiag they neither offend the mode by in- difference nor follow do sybservient- ly. : b be & trible longer or a aorta but certainly they are not any It anything a gore or two has been added, Prob- 80940022 ably it is because we have grown used to the outlines of this year's frocks that we like them better than we did. Even the woman who most violently protested against full skirts and wide hips and skirt snoriness and declared that though she might have to wear the things she would never, no never, think them any- thing but hideous, is beginning to look with tolerance if not with en- thusiasm upon the prevailing modes. Spring is the open season for the blue serge frock, which is ever wel- come, though not new. There is no more serviceable material than serge and as it is becoming as well as practical, its perennial popularity is easily understood. This season, though the blue serge suit must have a touch of color, as bright tones are used to enliven all of the sombre shades. For instance, one has a Py 8600-6040 collar and cuffs of yellow cloth, while the buttons that f n the pockets above the belt are 6f blue and yel- low silk embroidery. Nothing could be simpler than the jacket, whose fullness is gathered into the figure with a belt of self material. The skirt is plain and exceedingly full. It is the original details that make this costume stand out conspicuously from the commonplace models, though in cut and line there is not a trace of what ome could call real novelty. . Odd belt and sash arrangements grow out of the latest fashion of having the front and back of coats hang in flat, straight lines, for some- thing must be done with the fulness that is forced to the sides. Coats flare eqally as much as do skirts and just how to take in the fulness about the hips is a question that --- If You Want News from the Front You Have to Go to the 6156-4228 puts the ingenuity of designers to the acid test. In most instances the belts extend only from side to side, and as there are no ends to be dis- posed of there are countless oppor- tunities for skilful' treatment. But- tons, pendants, buckles, tassels and all the long list of decorative "han- gers'-on" may be pressed into ser- vice in this connection, A cape-like collar, a tucked skirt and a coat that is side-plaited from the front to the back panels, with the sides deeply pointed, make for distinction in a suit of light blue broadeloth designed for summer wear. Vests, collar and cuffs are of striped silk. Continuing the straight flat line, the skirt has a panel front and back with the tucks running as far in'either direction as the panels will allow, White silk braid is wsed on some Rear 47278185 of the smartly trimmed spring tailor- mades, one particular attractive de- sign being of striped mohair. A band of braid is stitched above the deep hem and the coat ripples freely be- low the waistline. A collar of white silk surmounts the revers of braid- bound mohair, while. a very flaring collar attached to 'a white crepe de chine blouse overlooks the ensemble. Rather dark gray taffeta in the new shade collar slate is used for a chaming spring tailleur, which shows the close fitting waist and full flar- ing skirt silhuette of the moment. In addition to a facing of resilient lining in the hem, the skirt in trim- med with two-inch wide tucks, set about five inches apart. The belt on the coat slips through a plait that is released on the underarm seam at the waistline and finished at the lower edge with two fancy buttons, 739-8687 Now that bulky collars are begin- ning to be laid aside on days when the breath of spring can be felt, veils are coming into their own. With the 'tall fur collar, the only possible veil was the close one, drawn under the chin, or a slutterling "skirt" veil, falling no lower than the top of the nose. The new floating veils that have appeared recently are not always becoming, but there are at- tractive designs in rather fine hexa- gon "mesh with dainty hand-drawn or hand-run patterns straying up from an equally dainty border de- sign, and the veil that falls longer at the front than at the back----the apron style, it is called--is smarter than the straight veil with long ends at the back. Pale gray veils are very smart, but should be avoided by women with colorless skins. Brown veils are uni- AA sin, 67000718 versally becoming, except when the hair is very gray. Most becoming of all is the white veil with black hand- fun threads or small black leat de- Sign Jersey cloth is used a great deal for suits that answer the purposes of both street and sport wear, A model in brown and grey obeys Fashion's law that, no matter how slim the skirts may be at the hips, flare at the hem they must. The suit is trimmed with pockets and buttons, and pockets were never more ample than now, - One might think that there was nothing more to be said about them, but have you seen the new tailleurs coat pockets planted with en flowers? in all probability you have not and. in case this place proves too surprising, and since the touch of (Continued on page 10.) TELEPMONE AND SEE YOU CAN TAP ANY STRAY CONVERSATION This MORN NG Do vou HEAR ANY THING? Yes, Uve LOCATED I TSuNK You Hawg ? Now Do vou Know Beavis 1 Wit NER HEARD THE WAR Coreeyean Dent Just N Ear Nh TY mC.