The D KINGSTON, ONT aily B ARIO, MONDAY. AUGUST 27, 1917 = SECOND SECTION | Suggestions for the Women in Search of Ne T7374 - a By Maude Hall . Among the uncensored despgtches from Paris is the announcement of the safe arrival of American buy- « ers.- The heads of the great dress making establishments over there, however, guard all information re- guarding their new models more zeal ously than the military authorities at Washington succeeded in doing in the early days of the war and the buyers do exceedingly well when, by diplomatic intercourse with the rue de la Palx and other smart thoro- ughfares, they gain a hint of mad for the coming season. : Several mew tailleurs and wraps are shown here for the first. time, They do not differ radically from garments with 'which well dressed women already are familiar, but their simplicity shows that the de- signers are determined to obliterate pitfalls for women who would prac tice war time economy by doing thelr own sewing. . LESS 1S PACD. TT WITH GERMAN TROOPS FIGHT. ING THE CANADIANS. Above and beyond the talk about lars and yokes to distinguish new Jackets and coats. These are not difficult, to make, nor are they hard to arrange, but while the inexperiesic- ed dressmaker will cling to the orig- 6d with her needle will find count- less ways to ring in novel develop- ments. Most of the collars are con- vertible, and there is no limit to the Hanipuiations of-a convertible col- ar. : Aiding and abetting the collar is the square shoulder yoke which ap- pears both on long coats and Jae costumes. Especially does the yoke consort with the plaited arrange ments featured on the back and front of tailored jackets. So far the ten: dency is to develop collars in the niaterial of the garment instead of J fur, as was the case last season, but tacks deliveréd by great bodies of picked German troops, supported by | : monstrous bombardments. It is a wonderful tribute to the Canadians | and to their grim tenacity that, af- : ~ there Is othing in their design that simplicity, there rise wonderful col- {will 3 event an overlay of fur later in the n---unless it gets too cold 0 Wear furs. One of the favorite 'reniarks of the vaudevillians during 'the. inal model, the woman who is skill | eat few weéks has been that "jt 0st hot enough for furs," One chide their sarcasm, though, "velvet hats are affected in mid- August and straws in mid-December, Gape coats, with many modificye tions, will continue fashionable fall and winter. our Are vory smart for these coats, al- tholigh they are becoming more and m kets which form a part of two-piece elty The checked wel: and other soft woolen materials e dificult to obtain. Their scar- may contribute toward their ul- odis and up will go prices. 'Stunning cape coat in black and ¢ velours, linéd with striped, sa- yds trimmed with white velvet. The i collar may closed high at b neck of turned down and the rolled back to form pointed fi a § £ revers, Cuffs of white velvet finish the one-piece sleeves 'and the poc- kets and belt correspond with the col- lar and cuffs. One desiring some- thing of more subdued efféct might substitute black velvet or black sa- tin for the trimming, but there is no ® to affect anything that ap- proac mourning. ++ There are stunning new coat suits among the advance models--stunning because of their perfect tailoring and correct severity. They are develop- ed principally in serge, tricotine, gab- pe, etc. though for early fall ere are some dressier models in shantung and heavy satin cloth. All of the late designs lean toward the straight line, from shoulder to waist- ling, or from shoulder to hip. The belts threaten the supremacy of ie straight line. Countless novel: ties for autumn are already displayed in exclusive shops. Patent leather belts are the most popular just now, | although there is a growing demand ph u + on for suede, some of the. latest Paris modes showing belts which have cut-out patterns in colored suede mounted on black. Among the favor- ed shades are dull purple, pheasant tan, mole and nut green. Sharing fa- vor with these are the belts qf self- material and there is the: widest va: riety in widths which are seen from two to six inches. ~ Unusually chic are the belts shown in colored patent leather---pale blue and particularly brilliant reds, - de- signed for wear with costumes of white and light gray. Speaking of gray, this is to be one of the most fashionable colors of au- tumn and is being used for the best interpretation of rT coats, Dark gray polo cloth 1; ons, an adorable design that envel the figure and is trimmed with pockets in two sizes-- above and below the. belt of self-material. The collar, is a big turn-down affair, but it may be rolled Lee i in . back to form revers also, The sleeves are finished with big, comfy cuffs of the 'polo cloth, though they have a lining of brilliant green satin. Tailored coats that fit into the fig- ure slightly are very elegant carried out in men's wear sarge and Poriet twill. They are trimmed with deep colors of plaid satin or velvet to dis- tinguish them for afternoon, wear with handsome separate blouses, The skirts worn with these jackets are usually plated and of high waistline. The woman whose taste does not lean toward quiet color schemes, easily find color enough to satisfy her among the new materials, There are many excellent tones of / gold, orange and yellow, the last named having a decided brownish cast, how- ever. When collar and cuffs of black or dark furs, however, are ad- ded, one fdrgets the brightness of the color of the costume. i i ; | 5 £ i i if even in tailleurs and topcoats, can w Tailleurs and Wraps Guide to Patterns. The fashions shown on this page are Pictorial Review designs. Num- bers and sizes are us follows: Coat No.7374. Sizes 34 to 46 in- ches bust.: Price 25 cents. Coat No, 7384. Bizes 14 to 20 years, Price, 30 Ah Skirt No. 7478. San 24 to 34 In- ches waist. Price, 20 cents, Cost No. 7366. Wises 84 to 44 In- ches bust. Price 20 cents. Skirt No. 7339. Sizes 24 to 32 In- ches waist. " 1 Coat No. , . Biges, 14 to 20 years. Price 20 cents. / Coat Na '7383.. Sises 14 to 20 years. Price 20 cents. Skirt: No. 6380. 'Sizes 14 to 20 years. - Price 15 cents, Cape Coat No, 7371. 44 inches bust. Pictorial Review Patterns on sale by local agents. Sizes 32 to 20 cents, ©. B. Gordon, Montreal, vice- chairman of the Imperial Munitions Board, 1s made a knlght commander of the British Empire. - PATEK : bet 1