4 ---- // \ / / / \ \ 1 \ 'By Maude Hall The holiday shops buzz with the subdued voices of shoppers --looking for advantageous purchases of mater- fals to be used in their campaign of inexpensive, but smart dressing. To be truly popular a model must show itseif in sympathy with the capabili- ties of the home dressmaker. Many women are willing to continue to buy new materials and trimmings so that the thousands who work in the factor- fes while those upon whom they are dependent give their services to their country may continue in employment but that are not willing to invest in materials that are not. practical, nor will they try to duplicate models that are, at first glance, too difficult for them to attempt to reproduce. There is really a concerted effort between designers and manufacturers In the interest of women who are trying to do their own dressmaking. The models enjoying especial favor A THE DAILY BRITISH WHIG, He A wre those designed along the lines of simplest adjustment. One-piece plecements. and trimmings, plain skirts and simple blouses are most in demand , » Many of the most attractive woolen stuffs are so expensive that women are turning to velvet and velvet- een, which are couslderably cheaper, thougn omg hardly realizes it until proved by appraisal Satin, too is much liked for formal and semi-for- mal costumes, a great deal of black being employed by the' best houses, Of combinations of satin and velvet, satin and serge, efc., there is no end. All of the leading Paris dressmakers have sent over splendid areations in satin, the models ranging from the simplest of morning or utility frocks to the smartest afternoon or evening models. Some are entirely in black Save for some relieving note about the neck. Others are lightened by lib- @ral use of white or gray or Diege or warmer colors, frocks, jackets free from intricate eni- nT Stunning Styles for Women Who Practice There are, dainty little frocks of gray satin, a particularly effective wodel having a plain skirt, slightly distended at the sides and attached to a simple waist with very deep V-shap- ed neck. The vest is of cream color crepe Georgette, surmounted by a very high collar of the same ma- terial . Velvel and plaid serge are com- bined in an attractive costume in which brown dominates. The blouse has panel extensions below the nar- row belt, hack and front, the sides being turned up apparently" for no other reason than to form square poc- kets. Dark brown velvet is used for the hlouse, the skirt featuring two shades of brown and uncertain lines tof blue in-the plaid. The blouse fas- tens at one side and has a high col- "lar of kolinsky. Most of the coats of the best ma- kers are belted, though one sees some attractive designs that are not con- fined about the waist. The former, however, are more generally becom- ing than the jackets without belts. Gray serge makes an effective coat with gathered peplum trimmed with deep bands of opossum. It is worn with @ plain skirt which, however, is almost entirely concealed by the jac- ket. Oppossum forms the shawl collar and cuffs of the long close sleeves. The most [fashionable pelts for fur trimmings are opossum, natria, beav- er, coon, squirrel, and the long-hair- ed brown furs kolinsky, shunk and less expensive kin. Moleskin is enor- mously popular, but it is marked at Prices absolutely beyond the reach of the average dress allowance. Many lovely high collars are made of fur and the sleeves of a jacket will- be trimmed to match the collar, obviat- ing the wearing of a muff. Several of the French dressmakers are featuring high fur collars uot only for street but for house gowns, so that all sorts of high collar arrangements are offer- ed in the latest styles. ' Although the majority of coats hide the skirts, a great deal of attention is City Dairy | PASTEURIZED MILK AND CREAM. Visit This Dairy and Decide for Yourself. -- Satisfaction Guaranteed. Oficial Test by FH. B. Smith. Milk tost- ed 3.2 Butter Fat, one 4 JOHNSON STREET? == mr Canadian Pacific.. a Offers Unsurpassed Attractions For The Winter ~~. Tourist ~ Warm Sea Bathing -- Golf -- : Tarpon Fishing, Etc. Homelike, Moderate-Priced R ts as well as the more palatial hotels. Choice of Routes. See that at least one portion of your Jicket ./ reads: "VIA CANADIAN PACIFIC ROCKIES." W. B. HOWARD, District Passenger Agent, Toronto. Full particulars from F. Conway, C.P.A.. Wellington Streets, Kingston, Ont. Corner Princess 'and' . Phone 1197, had |r FARMS FOR SALE Neart the city, at low prices. W.H.Godwin & Son 39 Brock Street Phone 424 Remind You That our stock of groceries, pro. visions, fresh and smoked meats are the best that can be bought. We would like you to eome and see. C. H. Pickering 490 & 492 Princess Street. Phone 330, RAILWAY LRT L SSS LOCAL BRANCH TIME TABLS In effect Sept. 30th, 1917. Trains will leave and arrive at Oly Depeat, Foot of Aghasen Street. Golag West. Lve. City > rr. - 2 Diets No. 19 Mall .. ., ..12.20 No. 13 Express . ., 2.58 No. 27 Local .. .. 3.45 1 Intern'l Ltd. 1.41 T Mall... .... 3.00 TUPPER E8383 !| Chicago, Bay City | Hatitax, Boston: Pullman accornin tion, tickets other information, apply to, J. P. ley, Agent. Agen or all ocean ontasbin mes pan "das snd Stent ~~ Nag (CUNARD LINE For only fo A . eford Co. Limited, Geaerst 30 King Street Eawt, Toronte, Save Your Coal James Soward's Coal Co. Phone 155. SPECIAL THIS WEEK: price She, wate price ot pn ot rh 300 Ths éheice dalry Lh sian ™. MONDAY, DECEMBER 24, 1917. igid Economy in Dress " - being paid to the lines of the skirt just now because of shifting fashions. Two and four-piece models seem the most favored for general wear, the tunic and draped effects being reserv- ed for more formal occasions. As com- pared with last year's designs skirts are much narrower, though there is considerable varfance tn the dégrée of narrowness and frequently there is marked fullness in the upper part of the skirt, no matter how pronounced the narrowness at the hem. The woman who is economizing in dress is making a mistake, for as the Season advances and the social elect gather for war conferences, charita- ble entertainments, etc., the striking feature of the gatherings is the num- ber of well-gowned women. A know- ing looking one-piece frock that is appropriate for almost any occasion is fashioned of dark green broadcloth. The front is in plaited panel effect and there is a deep shoulder voke which fastens at one side. A motif of embroidery ornaments the belt, but there is no other touch of decora- tion anywhere. There are some splendid straight- line dresses in (Indian cashmere, jer- sey cloth, ete, featuring fly-panels that are attached to the neck and al- lowed to hang in free style to the hem, if desired. Many of these dress- es are belted, but on a certain type of figure they are attractively daring when unbelted. Usually there are bands of bréid or a deep border of fur to give weight to the lower edge of the panel. Although, as has been said before, a great many satin frocks are being sent over from Paris, a gen- eral survey of the imported things leaves one with swirling memories of dark hued velvet designs, suits of wool velours, duvetyn and similar cloths © with interludes of clinging brocade frocks and of rich brocade and velvet coats hugely collared and lavishly trimmed with fur. These are the models which the woman who does her own sewing elects to copy. In spite of their rich effect their PAGE ELEVEN J line, in most instances are easy to re- produce. Guide to Patterns. The fashions on this page are Plc- torial Review designs. Numbers and sizes are as follows: Waist No. 7568. Sizes 34-to 42 in ches bust. Price, 20 cents. Skirt No. 7463. Sizes 24 to 34 in- ches waist. Price, 20 cents, Waist No. 7543. Sizes 34 to 44 in- ches bust. Price 20 cents. Skirt No, 7508. Sizes, 24 to 34 in- ches waist. Price, 20 cents. | Coat No. 7562. Sizes, 34 to 44 in- ches bust. Price, 20 cents. | Blouse No. 7544. Sides, 34 to 44, inches bust. Price, 20 cents. 7 Skirt No. 7508. Sizes 24 to 34 in- ches waist. Price, 20 cents, Costume No. 75669. Sizes, 20 yeprs. Price, 20 cents. Costume No. 7672. Sizes, 14 to 20 years. Price, 20 cents, "Pictorial Review patterns on dale at local agents, 14 to mg Introduce Some New Musi- cal Artists As Your Kmas Guests YOU CHOOSE THEM YOURSELF, and they will per- form for you, just the selections that will delight you most. 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