THE DAILY BRITISH WHIG, WEDNESDAY, APRIL | 10, 1918. em ---------- ------ -- nx Ammmnnm HE straight silhouette is still being preserved, but ol takes sometimes the form of a slender oval, for the skirt is always quite easy | at hips, and added to this the box conts and jackets hang free from the sides even when belted back or front. The sleeves, loo, are wide in some instances at or just above the wrist, and this is distinctly more! graceful than the former pipestem slims| 1ess fo the average observer, | Dresses, of course mean, coats, and| hese are of two varieties, the very | straight and loose affair and the one | much resembling the walking dress, which may or mag be worn under it } Models: shown ¢ id spring top coats wre in gabardine, serge, heavy silk, and] some of wool velours for those women | who have not yet become usdd to the words conservation and economy. | 1 { § The bustle influence has practically mbsided and its only effects are seen in| i 8 loop or wide sash end at the bick, des! piace bas been taken by the tunic and | side tunic or very wide panels (rout and | back, 'Thess panels should not be con.| fused with the stingy narrow panel which loated loose at the back which" was in| vogue 'when panels were last seen. Panels | when referred to at present mean wide] ones, which really form the major part of | she sKirt and are usually front and back, showing only & small part of the under o | sido skirt, ¥ | A departure from the usual order of! things in the matter of skirts is one ~hich has been hinted about before, bui til lately unseen. The skirt is draped § ir at the front and' mosfiof the fulness | % held at the waistline in front, leaving ¥ he back and hips rather flatter. De- sidbdly not a skirt for an amateur to at! empt;, for the drapery should look as if} vulled away froms rather than lifted up at he front, \ \ | wear are the voiles and tinted voiles, with i soutache braiding in patterns which ard no matter how "much ground cover. By the way. hawever, up and down the, Ear trotter frocks and stregt wear in | geners al are frocks of silk jepbey, some ¢ ~ate full rather than scanty and show D6 which show 3 clever use. Af flat braid. | ign of a" ging. -Of course, when it} ap splied closely in rows. Dark blue taupe | *omios 0Tlie cont dresses it is a differe nt | aml black are the usual colors, and the | aatter. nid these are bolted and slim aM | braiding usually matches rather than! ilhonette may be. coats ~ that is' topconts | we desigoed to take the place of a dress | wtraste with the dress, Buiton up the | Hip-on coats are used for cont. dresses, | back dresses, while braided girdles and! mt the Amesiean woman doed not take! {models with high collars are new or-old indly to the: slipover Jidea as applied to! features of this season's gowns just as: he regia cont. althouxh she Bury be! you elicoss to look at it. , i veoneilég to them if the fivises. Soutinug, Pongee was used for a spring suit} o be uhderheated. y {which was embellished with braiding and} Lace afternoon dresses and Iugaric| further boasted of a dotted foulard vest] rocks are to be worn this spring, fief una with the conventional points in the! orling to some indications. At an €X-1 rout, The braiding ran up and down tibition held recently some of the most tractive gowns made frol or in coni- i sinition with American made laces were Skirt part of the coat. In spite, of ag down, : this decoration the colors matched ex- 'The adaptability of the American man- |, (ly except for the white spots on the ifacturer was here very clearly shown, lor the Inces included most of the best mown Yatietion~<lun, Venise, net and , : Suet. ' 'Midnight blue sdtin was the material both sides of the front and around oigtie vest, and the simple lines helped to give the suis an air of Simplicity. As to the gowns, they conld honestly | chosen for a three piece suit whigh was se called sucessful. One especially At cut with a short bobbed off Eton Jacket a ho iy he taco ape], and wide sleeves were ent off at the sver the chiffon which wag tsed for the wrists and under cfs of Chinesé crépe own added. The erépe was used again for Lingerie' dtoxscs are in flesh colored|the ton of (ho dress. which was straigit 1nd pale tinged fabrics. and tinted us welll up and down and collariess. | Cuffs and} 8 White dates are used with them --also! collar on the jacket were of peacock blue tile insets of cmbroiders. Among Stef and worn with this costime was a hat SPRING MODELS {ecnventional in design for the most part. : weartest of these frocks for summer] coversd with peacock feathers. < HE pown just to the right of the centre is of taupe silk wet and is expecially desioned for dlternoon wear. The "bodice is draped to one side, sharing from underneath the cream lave, which is combined with the nel, The neck is square and hay a narrow lace collar at the sides, The slecves ave vevy wide al The wyist, but have a tight culf-of the lace underneath it thie fromt of the skirt ix an apron, gathered slightly and cmbroidersd in large. round motifs araund ithe bottom in under skirt of a darker shade of the tavpe is allowed to lung below the apron and show shallow scallops. which arc embroideved. Large preture hat of taupe. trimmed with Wve ribbons and roses. Strikingly simple is the black hat shown at the centre. The large rosette. which is its only trimming. is of black satin. and the facing is of flesh color satin, lending churn to almost any type of beauty. The shape is slightly mushroom, which shows that the hats swith turned up bins have not datiresy won the day, althovah these ave 4 being shown he same Paris models. Nats of « slightly poke bonnet tendency are also among the new models. The hat shawn above is prop! that the freakiness craggera: tiom is not nt all neceseary in order to be smartly and becomingly hatfed. Al the upper left ix 0 1 mast charming aarden party frock, which is alee an iflastra- tion thu ciiginality in this type is by -wo-meanytost-- The gown iv of large WERE sik filet, and the pattern, which at first glance looks like lace, is of wool ent: broidercd on the mesh. The front uf the goien is in wide panel eifect and has a wide straight line ai tho wark, the panel continuing tu the bottom 5f the skirt. The tunic, which is at the sides also, shows the wide embroidery of wool. Woul embroidery finishes the wide, loose sleeves. An afternoon dress cout is shown at the extreme right. It is of tan silk, with tollar and cuffs of satin, One conld almost call the collar a cape, as il is so unusually wide thal it hangs over the shoulders. Howerer, it is a real collar, as it may be pulled up around the neck cottar fashion and buttoned. The satin frogts, which show in the illustration, also are converfib's and may be folded over and buttoned. Wide bell of the satin. Hal of tan satin, trimmed with silk apples. i The picture at the lower rigli sude shows an informal afternoon frock of yelldip chiffon, embroidered in cream rool and corql colored beads. The wide bands wi timing {AN sides of the skirt. whick are Grought fo the jront over a wide panel. The - howd embroidery weinhs down the Lottow. of the 3kirt in a menner which accentuntcs slender lirics of this gown. As in the other gogns: the sleeves of this model follow : Tig gh renning from the shoulder to hem are very simple and charming, out the ncie , rules which cally for widih, Bnet 74 4 1 nw : _PAGE ELEVEN _ -- FEED RET OETA OE EOE 00 ATA) OE EA TS ER ICE AND SATIN FOR A 00000 00000000000 HINT THR RNOONS HHIInGIAaS