- Ye KINGSTON. ONTARIO. MONDAY, OCTOBER 7, 1918 1 ' » TT By Maude Hall . The advance fashions for fain are just one series of attractive things after another. 'Whether one sets out to select a frock, a hat or a new fur, . the ability, ke a decision will be quite as d t because of the great profusion of novelties. Early in the discussion of first au- tumn modes one must acknowledge the debi the hostte dressmaker owes the 'great d gers for their consid- ~eration of her talents, Tor this season, as last, every encosragement is given to the woman whose win-the-war pro- gramme includes the making of her own frocks Simple lines rule and the accessories are more or less of the adjustable or convertible order. The war has put a restriction on wool, but there are many new mate- rials to take its place and they are Ivcly Both to look at ¥hd to feel. In most instances they are soft and'silky, v - aR - = and, of course, they must needs be pliable to meet the demands for cling- ing lines. Pure wool fabrics are frightfully expensive and hardly jus- tify the expenditure unless one have an 'unlimited allowance for dress. One of the smartly built designs for early fall wear shows a combina- tion of silk jersey and velveteen. The overdress is of jersey in a.dark, be- comping shade of gray. , There. are buttons down either side of the back, which is arranged in panel effect, and the fulness is held in with a belt of self-material, finished with long sash ends. Silk fringe trimsgthe ends of the sash, Buttons emphasize the flowing lines of the sleeves and the round neck has a ruching of net in self-color held in with a band of rib- bon velvet. © The front of the dress is similar to the back, only that a few stitches of embroidery are added to the vest. : Every Man Who Enjoys G and isn't getting it at home ought to applignces, musical instruments, art ob- ing which is still useful THROUGH CLASSIFIED" things, which you no longer need, is to source of revenue. It's not a good time Checks and plaids are to be' with us again and in such different arrange- ments that they actually seem as if they are new. Some of the most suc- cessful of the new tailleurs are of check and plain fabrics. Velours and velveteen combine splendidly and be- side looking well,' the materials are serviceable. A plain blue velveteen jacket sets off a check velour skirt very smartly, the jacket being built upon the simplest possible lines, with only a deep collar of the skirt mate- rial for a decorative note. The belt is of self-material and there are large inset pockets trimmed with black cro- chet buttons. 7 Some of the black and white checks are conspicuous, but never do they violate the dictates of good taste, Odd striped effects, too, are seen, as in the case of a tailleur with two-piece skirt and jacket falling below the hips. The = z . stripes' run around the figure on both the skirt and jacket. There is a shawl collar of whité satm and the fronts of the jacket cross at the waistline, after which they are carried around to the sides and held there with fancy but- tons. One must always figure on buttons in the decorative scheme of a tailleur, unless braid or embroidery are used instead. Buttons, however, are inexpensive, sometimes, and much can be accomplished by a clever ar- rangement of them on the front of a skirt, jacket or sleeves. 3 yor ; For semi-formal wear the designers are offering some wonderful frocks made up of satin and velvet. A black and white creation has the skirt made with @ deep flounce of white satin stitched" to: a yoke of velvet. The plower edge of the skirt is stitched with very marrow black silk 'soutache braid and over the white flounce there fall narrow panels of the black velvet edged with heavy black fringe. Noth- ing could be simpler than the bodice with its vest and collar of white satin. Deep cuffs of self-materfal finish the sleeves and the belt is of white satin, stitched with soutach and set off with black velvet buttons. A costume like this has its advantages in the matter of warmth. : : More and more are the accordion laited skirts asserting themselves and one must admit. that for dressy wear "| they are charming. Especially grace- ful is a costume of gray crepe de chine with an accordion plaited skirt. The waist is a simple fichu effect, the vest and collar of georgette being beaded and embroidered in blue, gray and silver The bodice, however, is hidden under a gorgeous cape of white fur, made with a deep collar whose ends are extended at the front to be wg PER CAPITA EXPORTS OF DOMESTIC MERCHANDISE $78 $128 ---- Thftedl Klaglom United States g2e3a3g s3a23aag 39 aaanangy s- En A 78 ---r Fashions for Fall Continue to Press F. orward carried around the waist and fastened at the back. The furs that promise to lead the vanguard of fashion are Russian squir- rel, kolinsky, 'nutria, broadtail and beaver. A novelty in trimmings is leather fringe. Coats as a rule will be longer, reaching to within ten inch- es of the ground, while capes will ex- tend to the waistline in back, lending themselves to a variety of treatment at the front. : In addition' to leather fringe some of the advance fur models show touches of bright color introduced in beaded belts, loops and tassels. An attractive design in Hudson seal reaches just below thg waistline and has side pieces set in to simplate sleeves. In the back it has a belt of brick red beads which holds in the extra fulness needed to give width to the shoulders. The lining of this gay A NICE LEGAL POINT. Over Sale of Hay by Farmers d Gsmmnoqgue. Gananoque Reporter. A case of unusual interest to thé public, . particularly to farmers, was heard at Division Court here last week, the facts elicited at the trial being as follows: In the beginning of last winter W. E. Palmer, of Auburn, N.Y., went through the lo- cality surrounding Gananoque and bargained for varying quantities of hay from different farmers. The farmers claim that Mr. Palmer, ow- ine to the unusual conditions that existed was unable to obtain cars for shipment and in addition t is, for a time, the Governmen laced an embargo on shipping hay. © result was that carg could not be obtained until about the last of May or og of June. In the the hay had become musty by rea- son of conditions that arose after to reject the musty hay. The vendars thought that he should take all the hay, claiming that they were not nsible f 4 meantime considerable quantities of |. ng. Mr. Palmer claimed the 7667 little garment is of satin in the same shade as the belt. - In addition to capes anid wraps there are wonderful stoles of Hudson seal, moleskin, gray fox and skunk. These are all lined with satin, with an over- ~ lining of chiffon cloth to make them soft and fluffy on both sides. > ° Novelty velvet is to be featuréd-as a material for ultra-dressy 'tailored costumes The designs 'are mostly in: checks or stripes and seldom is a costume made entirely of the same pattern. With a check coat a plain skirt is worn, and vice versa. = Nearly all of the new coats show long, gath- ered peplums, because the strai narrow silhouette prevails in skirts and the peplum gives the necessary fulness to the figure. The accepted finish for the neck is a deep collar of satin or corded silk, with a touch of embroidery. Judgment for the $56.40 and costs. On October 2nd, at Bethany, Olive May, only daughter of Mr. and Mrs, William. Rowan, became the bride of Rev. W. H. V. Walker, pastor of the church, and son of Mr. and Mrs. plaintiff for William Walker, Port Hope. Soo WAR PUZZLES