THE DAILY BRITISH WHIG, FRIDAY, JANUARY 17, 1919. CAC TEE . po Applique a Embroidery Sixth in & Series of Lessonssby'a Belgian Artist ee OLD weather has its effect on wiry oa one short thing, even' types of embroidery, and stitch (see iHustration No. 1).. Finish all thes motif in the same with the coming of autumn ofie Jin ath 4t_ consistent to consider heavier nkedle work, for a tin embraidery. which will he the lesson to-day] in in great demand for dress ornamenta- tion and has been asked for by several readers. Many of of the fashionable autumn] gowns from Paris| are trimmed, with soutache brald, with beads or with em- broidery, and any woman at all handy with the needle can make a simple dress very attractive by braiding, beading or embroidering it Applique embroi- dery is especially - #murt and it is to be surmised that more than ode of our readers will be glad to add with it a Mnishing touch to her gown and to do it herself jn the Interest of war- time economy, to say nothing of the dif- ficulty of finding any one to do it for her. This embroidery is so simple and easy to make "that it is more like play than work to fashion it and if properly done it gives a wonderful effect to a very simple frock. It may be combined with/fur, such &s Hudson seal (or any pelt that has very short hair) of with a fine quality of silk velvet. If the dress matérial Is dark use red or white (preferably white) carbon paper for stamping the design, which should be done neatly of course In order to get good results... - After the design Is - stamped baste the material (where the design is stamped) on very heavy paper that will . hold the material in place and keep it from'stretching. Baste around and across the paper several times so that it will be sure not to slip. If & motif in some con- ventional design is to be made it should be developed in velvet or in Tur. First cut the velvet or fur just the same size as the part of the motif that is to be worked and be sure that the velbet fa cut exact ana regular, or otherwise it will ruin the whole effect of the design. Baste the Velvet or fur inside the line of the design nnd begin the work by using 8 heavy silk floss and embroidering ail around the motif, using one long stitch 3 Serre SHRUNKEN UNDERWEAR. Wr A ni If through rough usage at the laundry a mand "gannél undershirt is ghrunken 0 a no-fit size cut off the neck binding and use it for & petticoat. Fit over the hips by closing the arm holes asd cutting off sleeves. Turn the raw edges of the seam over and. stitch bf hand: through four thicknesses of the flamhel, being care- ful to keep a good curve to the seam. Face the once-was neck With a length of Well shtunken unbleached cloth, and leave the once-wag frofit' facing for the placket, Uap liy in ew a out the neck to fit hi waist the placket. will bacome the top one of the skirt. Leave the ribbed border for a hem {inst Shun vpodgd featherstitch a new ery. 5 rr Kithee summer ntar weight under- WeAr can be used. ' 'wn last as many years, and fitting "Are most satis. factory. in' these days of scant outside skirts, Cid The d ers, which similarly made] unfit far wear, may be ads into three or more piece waists which snd at the waist] fine, Thess make snug fitting, warm jer 56s fo wear just unler a wash shirtwaist. Faca neck, fronts, bottom and arm holes with well shrunken cloth. Often a very pretiy. garment is the result when dainty needlework makes the finish, Often one cdW't afford to Jose the wearstimge planned for such underwear, nd after. rendered useless through "ex- Cessive perspiration and poor treatment in laundert quite a few dollars are saved Hfowife oes wits, scissors and thread. WASH COLORED GARMENTS. } Detleatety leolorgd socks and stockings are apt fo fade in washing. If they are soaked for a night in & pail of tepid water dantiining a half pint of turpéntine, then Wrung cut and dried, the colors. will "set". and they cun afterwards be washed with- For a.flower cut the welvet in the same ie at least, The "appliguetibape #s-the petals. Don} cut each petal separately, but cut themrall inv one and then baste the velvet ont the design and make the jong and shortsstitch just as is done-dn thet case of the motif. Thisstitch is only for the outside edges of the flower, however (see illustration No. 3), and the stem or running stitch must be used tp owtiine the petals and a number of Frenchiknots made to fill in the centre. For the large leaves do just the same as for jthe single motif and the flower, but for the small leaves outline them in the stem stitch and; fill them in with the stem @titch. This gives an entirely @ir- fereng effect, Thenstems themselves are, of comrse, made just. as are the stems in other embroidery. A different touch may be given to this embroidery by devel. oping only the out- side edge of the flower with velvet and filling in the rest of the design with the stem stitch (see illustration No. 4). Here a motif a is worked half in wel- vet and half is filled In with stem stitch. After the embroidery is completéd take it off of the paper and press it, but, be sure not to press it flat, for that would ruin the velvet or fur. Hawve the fron hot and, turn it over so that the material may be Hassed over the iron. Place a damp cloth between the material and. the iron. A small pail or anything that the Iron will fit into may be used to support it, as the material is quickly brushed over it. It is necessary, too, that the floss shall be the exact shade of the fur or velvet, otherwise the general effect will be marred. If any reader desires further informa- tion upon the subjéct the embroidery edi- tor will be glad to furnish ft. MAKE A RATION HEATER. ead imernr It is the easbest thing imaginable to make ration heaters; or scalda-rancio, as they are called in Italy, if one follows the directions of the National Italian So- clety. Spread out four newspapers, eight sheets in all, and begin rolling at the long edge Roll as tightly as possible until the papers are half rolled; fold back the first three sheets toward the rolled part and continue to wrap around the roll almost to the first fold, then fold back another three sheets and continue to wrap around. the roll again up to the last margin of the AT RATRER. THA fH EACE: > ; ERY often the more one Xusses Vi the complexion the worst it becomes. On-the other hand all too frequently cne might materially im- prove the appearance of the skin at the expense of just a small amount of time and trouble. : As a rule it is prevention rather than cure that we should lay the greatest stress upon, for all the cosmetics and toilet applications in the world will be perfectly useless to us if we do not take care of our health and the beauty that we naturalty possess. Prevention vs. Cure. We may visit 'the most expensive beauty specialists in town and be un- failing in our attendance at the hair dresser's, but unless we give a certain amount of attention to conserving our energy we may expect to have our faces become wrinkled and lined and our hair to turn prematurely gray. Cold weather is coming on apace, and it is bound to bring wrinkles In its wake unless we hestir ourselves and take particular pains to see that it does not. The cold tends to dry the natural oil {that is so necessary for feeding the tissues, and the problem that will soon confront us will be how to keep our skins in excellent condition hy supply- ing the element that is lacking without overnourishing the pores. The best time for us to inspect our} complexions and to discover in just] ent i CLEANSY SEIN WITH ° Cn Corp CREAM oe eat Mp pip be what state they really are is the strofig light 'of early morning. he We can decide whether the skin is in a healthy or unhealthy state by taking a fold of the flesh between the thumb and forefinger. When the skin resumes a smooth sur- face as soon as it is released it is firm and elastic and just ag it should be. - TREAY COMPLEXION IREQUENTLY Jo _ pat--don't rub=-the face dry " poft towel DX DASH OF LD WATE ------------ tat - tissue builder is imperative, and eream which contains oil should be applied, Of course, when hair shows an in- clination tg grow upon the face an. oily cream would only tend fo aid and abet it in its growth and must not be applied. A preparation made from an ounce of benzoated oxide of zine ointment and two drgms of strong spirits of camphor, 'gradually mixed, may prove an effica- cious substitute. For most of us, however, a simple cream used not too often and in mod eration will prove immeasurably bene- ficial. . Cold cream as far better results a cleanser produces than water, but it is elways advisable to follow up a mas: sage with a dash of cold water which will harden the muscles anli stimulate the tissues. : After taking the cold water treatment with a Things Internal. "x It is not sufficient; though, that we give our attention solely to external things. We must act just as wisely with things internal, and. one of the most im- portant off these is the state of our stomachs. "We must avoid foods that dre rich and heavy and eat those that are nour- But when it takes several seconds Dbe- ishing and easily digested, and in these fore it becomes flat again it is decidedly | [recipes we haven't the shadow of an out of condition. days of sane and palatable wartime This would seem to indicate that ajextuse for doing otherwise. shirt butten of the | Paper. On this margin, consisting of two sheets, spread a little glue or paste and continue the rolling, so as to make a compact roll of paper, almost like a torch. If six of the sheets are not turned under, there will be too many edges to glue. While the newépapers may be cut along the lirfé of the columns before rolNng, and the individual columns rolled sepdrately, as is done in the making of the trench candles in France, it is easier to roll the whole newspaper into a long roll and then out it into: short lengths. : A sharp carving knife, a pair of pruning shears, or an old fashioned hay cutter will 'cut the rolls easily. These little roils must then be boiled for four minutes, In enough paraffin to cover them, and then taken out and cooled, when they are ready to be put in bags and sent to the front, 1f there are more newspapers than can- dle ends, block parFiffin can be bought for a few cents at any grocery or drug store. ' FADS AND FANCIES. a . The plain collariess neckline is very fashionable for those to whom fit is be- coming. Black satin frocks are in_such tremen: dous favor that one sees them on every hand. '¥ The patty frock may be of satin, heavily embroidered net and narrow strips of ermine. A Plaids are most in vogue (in separate) pleated Cherry Turnovers. Two and one-half cupfuls cherries, sweet and carefully stoned, two-thirds cupful sugar or its substitute, two and one-half tablespoonfuls flour, one teaspoonful oleo- margarine. Have good. paste cut out, saucer shape. On one-half put a table- spoonful of the above mixture; dot with butter, fold over haif, first wetting edges with water, tuck under; press down firmly with 'a fork, bake until a good brown. Make little holes on top. Butter Scotch Pie. Bake pie shell,_one cupful brown sugar, two tabléspoonfuls of water, plece of.but- ter size of egg, yolks of two eggs, three tablespoonfuls of flour, one cupful mik. Cook. in double boiler until it thickens, then add one teaspoonful of vanilla. Beat the whites of eggs and add ong tablespoonful sugaf for icing. Place in oven a few minutes and brown. Mock Cherry Pie. One cupful cranberries, pneshalf euplul raleins, one-half cupful r, two-thirds cupfui, sugar, one tablespoonkil flour. Let |cook until berries are soi en add piece of butter and one teaspoonful vanilla, skirts and are usually made up in is makes one large ple. Very good. Delicious Dishes That Will Tease the Appetite Pumpkin' Pie Without Eggs. One and one-half cupfuis pumpkin stewed and mashed through a sieve, one- half cupfui condensed milk, oné-half. cup- ful cow's milk, one-half cupful sugar, two warm water, teaspoonful cinnamon and one-half teaspoonful ginger. > Bake in deep plate lined with crust The same recipe may bé used for squash ples, using squash instead of pumpkin, and you will be surprised how firm and creamy they are without any eggs. » Baked Tomatoes. ' Take as many tomatoes as are required, remove a little 'of the inside pulp and. fill up with 'uncooked rice and pepper and salt to taste. Place on a baking tin'and t in the oven till the rice is sufticienty oked: 'Berve very hot with fried parsley. 5 . # Carrot Souffle, A delicious and economieal dish this, made after a French recipe. Prepare a mash, or puréf, of carrots, to which add a tablespoonfil] of white sauce and the gf. slightly beaten, Add at 3 t the white of the egg whipped to a stiff froth and place the mash in a souffls dish; cook in a moder. ately quick oven until the souffle rises. Serve very hot, t y teaspoonfuls flour mixed with a little luke | Frozen Apple Custard. Make one pint of thick apple sauce and sweeten to taste with crushed maple sugar. Add two eggs, lightlx beaten, a pinch of salt,.a little ground cinnamon and grated nutmeg, a few grains of salt and one pint hot milk, thickened with half a teaspoonful of cornstarch, mixed tp a paste with cold water, Cool, turn into a chilled freezer and freéze slowly. jo Pear Pie, Required, six stewing pears, a cupful cold' water, two tablespoonfuls syrup, a int milk, half an ounce margarine, two tablespoonfuls maize meal, a dessert- spoonful sugar, pinch of salt. Pare the pears thinly, quarter them, put the water on to boll; when boiling add the syrup; into this put the pears and gently stew gntil-they are tender. all the time: add the sugidr and margarine, Grease a pie dish, put the pears in, then pour over the malze. mixture. Put into a moderate oven an brown. Serve hot or cold. § {women workers will 'be trained to Put the milk on to boil; when boiling add a pinch of salt and gradually sift in the maize meal stirring let the top slightly Capable FIVE thousand American girl clerks; are needed at once in France to re-| lieve men now employed there for| militafy duty. Schools are to be estab: Highed throughout the United States where the places of men. Over half a million] women are needed at once to fill vacated positions. =~ | Miss Lillian G. Jones, recently appointed | eashigr of the Bank of Cuba, in New York 'eity, is New York's first woman cashier. ficiently strengthened to enable them to throw the levers and "kick" the brakes on big traction plows which they expect to man, the Jayhawker Girls' Tractor Club, of Salina, Kas., has added military training to its repertoire. The Woman's Lib- erty Loan Committee B of which Mrs, Will fam G. McAdoo is th chairman, is now op erating in every State in the Union, and a membership of ove one million Reserve Corps wear special forms so that they can be distinguished from other women now connected with various branches of the army and navy. Before a young ,woman of any noble family in Denmark marries she spends, 'after she is engaged, a fixed time in some family, preferably that of a pastor. Miss Florence Taft, of rockwell, Conn, a cousin of ex-President Taft, is employed in a munition factory at Pompton Lakes with a number of other girls of well-to- do families. Both Queen Alexandra and Queen Mary of England are members of the Order of the Garter, but up to the present time there is no instance recorded in modern history where any women subject has been similarly! honored. All the girls who live on the Island of Rhodes are skilled mariners, and are, in addition, excellent divers, The over eleven thousand women work- ers in the munition plants at Bridgeport, Conn., will vote with the men in an in dustrial election to be held in that city. In Japan a married woman may own separate property, Female workers in' Tennessee are al- lowed to work only fifty-seven hours in any one week, Women workers in the mercantile es- tablishments in Kansas are paid a mini- mum weekly wage of $8.50, . In order that their muscles may be guf-| 18 Women Jottings About the Doings of the Fair Sex Westinghouse Rlectrie Werks at Pitts. burg are paid as high as $7 a day. The Queen of Halland supplies from her dairy a considerable proportion of the milk consumed by buyers in the city of Amsterdam, nolnted head of the schenge department of Upper Ciinada College at Toronto, is the first woman to become 4 member of the faculty since the school was founded In Miss Florence C. Thorne, who has been on the personal staff of Samuel Gompers. President of the American Federation of of the Working Conditions Service in the United States Department of Labor. California tomato canneries éan only be saved from bankruptcy by the coming te the fore of the women who are willing to g0 in the factories and help save! the enormous crops which they contracted fon early in the séason. » England has at least a million women in. her banks, factories, munition plants. rajl. ways and shipyards who have never worked for wages Before. Practically all the factories in England wherd women are emploved maintain women police forces, These female sleuths examine all passports, check the workers as they enter the factories, search for such contraband articles as clgar: ettes, matches and gleohol, patrol the fae- tory neighborhood and, dssist the police court magistrates. Women in service as ambulance drivers and nurses on the war fronts will be ad- mitted to the full honors of the Army and Navy Unplon along with soldiers In the present war. Women are being employed as street cleaners in Philadelphia. Many English women have taken up the veterinary profession. Anne Morgan, daughter of J. Plerpont Morgan, has been dedorated with a French War. Cross. ' Mrs. Olive 8. Ga- briel 1s called the best woman politician in New York gity. Over 30 per cent of the conductors em~ ployed on the cars of the New York Rails ways Company arc women. Nearly all the ticket agents on" the sub- way-elevated lines of the Brooklyn Rapla Transit Company are women. The replacement of men by women haa been mpore direct in agriculture than ip other industries in Great Britain, J American girls operating teléphone ex- changes for the expeditionary' forces in France have transmitted to the United States through the War Deépartment a protest against their designation as "Hello Women employed as machinists In the Girls." Go ~ This is the best ice cream for the money. It may bé made ready for the freezer early in the morning and kept in the ice box until it is convenient to freeze it. It is quite possible to utilize cream that is not perfectly sweet. Put in the can of the freezer one pint milk, one-half eupful heavy cream, one third cupful sugar, one teaspoonful vanilla, cne-half teaspoonful almond extract, a few grains salt, and vegetable color paste to make a delicate green color. Set the freezer in a pan of hot water, As soon as the mixture ls lukewarm, add one junket tablet dissolved in one tablespoon ful cold water. Mix thoroughly, and let stand until firm. Put in the ice box until ready to freefe, then put can in the freezer tub, adjust the crank, put in three small measures of fce that has been crushed in 'a' heavy bag or shaved fine with an ice shaver, cover this evenly with one measure of rock salt, 4dd three measures more of lce and one of salt, let stand five minutes and then turn the crank of the freeser very slowly for about ten minutes, when it may be turned a little more rapidly. Con- tinue the turning until mixture is firm. Remove dasber, pack ice cream solidly into the can, surrdund with four measures of ice to one of salt, cover with a heavy burlap bag or ne per keep in a cold place until needed. sure the Pistachio Ice Cream _ | cherry. tub 1s not plugged up, so that any surplus of salt water 'will drain off instead of getting into the freezer. It may be necessary to repack the freezer If the cream is frozen very long in advance of the meal, ; ! The cream may be put into: a mould, set in the fireleas cooker Kettle, surrounded with ice and salt, and left in the fireless cooker all day. Peel peaches, cut in thin slices, sprinkle with sugar and set in ids box to ohill. 'Po serve, place peaches in chilled dessert glasses, cover with ica cream and garnish each 'with a candied RAGGED CHRYSANTHEMUMS. A ---------- Ragged chrysanthemums may be made of white, pink, red or yellow paper. The circles are cut from one to five inches in diameter, erinigled from the centro, cut in strips reaching almost to the centre, Be opening in the side of the wooden freeger|ered and bor, has been made assistant director" | | Miss Mary C. Tucker. whe has been ap -b- & Be Your Child's Chum, but Insist on Obedience ' : Any mother who will permit her children to "answer back" or.otherwise have their way at home must éxpect, as their little ones grow older, to receive only ingrati- tude at their hands. And if mothers who are thus lax in their duty think thet Sweet Potato ahd Peanut Croguettes. One cupful mashed sweet potatoes, one cupfdl chopped peanuts, one-half tea- spoontul salt, few grains pepper, one cup- ful bread crumbs, four tablespoonfuls oleomargarine, 'one cupful' white sauce, two tablespoonfuls chill sauce. * Mix sweet Sindy chopped be HH af I pever had 3 « wardrobes. I used to envy tasteful some of we