FBP BB BBB BP 14 PAGES BAA RAAB RA Be Be AN YEAR 86. NO, 83 | Creative a KINGSTON, ONTARIO, TUESDAY, The Daily British Whig APRIL ] PAGES 9-14 bo BBA 8, 1919 SECOND SECTION Genius Gives Expression to Tailleur Modes ' tT Ak hho a BEE BUTE teehee. Ae ATT By Maude Hall Variety is the life of fashion. That is why well-dressed women never -lose ifiterest in tallieur mode es, to which creative genius has given highest expression this sea- son. The most talked about taill- ear jus now is the box coat. It is decidedly youthful in type and hangs in straight, graceful lines Avoidance of anything old or mat- ronly in appearance has given new . fife to these lines. Despite" the straightness and bbxiness of the new jacket, however, it fits the shoulders and bust very smoothly and has a dart on the shoulders mm front to accentuate the closeness of the fit Shoulders remain narrow and the sleeves are fitted info small armholes without a vestige of ful ness--oxcept at the wrist, where the widest latitude in treatment is allowed. The box coat most likely to grow vinta disfavor is the ono slit at the lower edges to show a facing of contrasting material--usually flan- nel or broadcloth. Bat there are different types which depends largely upon their severity of line for their cachet. Some button close- AAA AA N 8187 ly. together from the neck to the waistline and others have the open front effect. The latter have done more tg revivify the fancy vest than any other style of the year. One of the distinct novelties in box coats has a trimming section at the bot- tom into which is set pouch pockets and which is outlined with silk braid. This type is used frequently for the white serge and cloth taill- eurs, trimmed with black, so much in demand for sguthern wear Many of the fost effective taill- eurs are developed in serge, tri- cotine and Poiret twill and in addi- tion to the wool fabric, the heavy silk and wool crepes will be smart Checks are modish in light shades of gray, fawn, green and blue. BEx- céadingly smart is a box suit in gray check serge, the skirt being long and narrow, Most of the suit skirts | are absolutely plain The sleeves are long and close-fitting, with a few buttons of seff-materizl running up the back almost to the elbow. Sports clothes are no longer sports clothes, that 1s, as far as the name is concerned These fashions, especially suits, have extended their usefulness so greatly that "sports" fs far too limited in its meaning therefore the proper designation has been changed to "town and country' or "week-end" suits. One may interpret this to _niean that the garments can be used for either city or country or week-end pur- poses and the terms very much wid- ens their sphere of usefulness For practical use nothing equals a box jacket in blue tricotine which has the jacket fastened with twa buttons at the neck and falling op- en below, showing a bit of a vest of orange silk jersey Deep cuffs are stitched onto the sleeves and tha wide turn-down collar is trimmed with bands of dark blue silk braid. Poiret twill is employed in the devalopment of an attractive one piece dress with long lines There are box plaits at either side of the front and. in order to preserve their lines the belt of white cloth is run A Trade For the Young. Watertown, N.Y., Standard The printing trade has always been one of importance, but never more so than to-day. The New York city manual training schools are being equipped with type-setting machines and boys and girls are given an op- portunity to bgeome machine oper- ators and journeyman printers dur- ing 'a four-year High school course. It is a far cry from the day when the '| the days of his life, and there under the plaits at the front. The dress fastens in surplice style and has a shawl collar extending to the waistline. Bands of self-material form a double-cuff effect on the sleeves. As chaste in design as it is smart is anpther one-piece model in white serge with open neck finished with a square collar of: white organdy. Box-plaits are inserted in the side- front and side-back seams, the long plain one-piece sleeves being fin ished with flare cuffs. The winter resorts are gay with frocks of one-piece design carried out in delicate shades, especially orchid, flesh and soft blues, 2 the new heavy . silk crepes. hese shimmer in the intense light hav- ing a sheen of unusual bgilliancy, and are charming. Handsogtd be- yond description is a frock in black cn ---------- ------------------------ "devil" apprenticed himself or was apprenticed by his guardian to four years of service of every character in which he managed to ledrn the printing trade between times in which he ran errands, folded papers, swept out, and performed a score of other side duties in the print shop. There has been a marked advance in crafts education and in.the past few years it has been especially notice- able. Why do mot more young people take up the printing business and learn the trade? It is one of the best. There is nbne that is more en- joyable or more fascinating. There is an old saying that once a youth has the smell of printer's ink well in his nostrils he will long for it ail is truth in the saying. The trade coming to be more and more portant and he who starts in to learn it to-day 'will reap the best fruits of the business development =u few yeurs hence. It is a trade in which one can go as far as his resourceful mess and skill permit. There is no Hmit in the avenues a in book- | making, magazine making and news- and black sport dress is in panel style with yoke ex- tensions. panels at the carried over to the surplice adjustment. Materials of such character need little and, designs are selected plaits but held girdle or sash. belt, made in one piece fact, sea and Th ason bilities of the Coats y are built 8196 yy 8214 youthful box coat shows a panel vest "of cretonne, with narrow stripes in color which remind ono of Indian war paints, softened by floral nosegays into which the vivid colorings also enter, Other effects are suggestive of a museum Indian mumnty wrapping. Beadwork, em- broidery and braiding are used up- on all kinds of fabrics' in the de- velopment of fancy vests and one is allowed to let the faney run riot on their creation Fancy and* duvetyn narrow at the hem plain tricolettes, satin' and are. the leading fabrics for spring Wraps. The armholes are' quite large, if indeed there are armholes at all---the kimono ct~peing pre ferred-----and the sleeves are satin- cuffed, Often the raglan sleeve is shown, in greatly modified effects catching side-back shirrings, ete. The skirt sections of these coats, too, are usually attached, with ful ness across the front, backs being in one piece and more, sometimes panelled, sometimes attached to round shoulder yokes. When belts are used preference is given to nar- row ones which match the collar and cpffs. A whole lustrous the with front of trimmed satin. The white the but is for side of are plaits, The collar left side On either the front back is plain their make-up the simplest At times flat introduced in the sides, often the fulness waistline under a if the dress is As a matter of all of the best models of the are readily within the capa- "home dressmaker. unusually attractive Hnes are foremost. | were with: a tendency to ginal men elaboration. in as a.consequence, are quite as in at the is chapter could be written the subject of vests, for there never exploited in such ori- designs as this season. One are on dolman hd TOTO UU Tew ow wv wv veTwYw REET HCW WELDING & SHIPBUILDING CO. 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