\ PARIS AMUSES ITS TO SEE TH © forid might see, envy and copy. To- dd from the shoulders. ume. A smart ho DTURDAY, SEPTEMRER 18, 1919, A feature of fashion with the tall | red suits is the guimpe of broadly triped red and white linen beige | olored suit. . . Paris, Sept. 2.--The ut by the one he muses itself, § RB: war days the American | Jurist dominated the pleasure places | ¥ the summer scene: it was sald by esidents that monstrous and amaz- 2% things were done to lure coin | fom the American and to amuse him i & his wife, | Nothing so shocked the better | 395. @8 well as the middle class, in | ils city as the curiosity of Ameri- i ans concerning the artificial Raiety | f the lower set of restaurants Only | he most vicious of Parisians went to | uch places. The higheranembers in| he primrose path could not be paid ! 0 ba seen in cafes and dance halls | rliare entirely respectable American | i*n and women sat and paid out | leir money for a kind of entertain. | 15%t that had no spontaniety, nor neerity It was all arranged to « the Ameslcan dollar. The for. | igneér was the fly that came into the | pider's web. ee The w * fontmartre has been dead for four | 'ears. Maxim's, which once was | frilliant and then became less s0, psed to allure, and after the shoot- | & of an American officer by *renchman the restaurant was bar ed to all American soldiers. i There are many places that have teen opened up for the American | oldiers but, as a rule, they are | tupid and expensive. - He must be | ! very bored soldier who could find | Wtertainment at them. The most conspicuous place in flontmartre, the Abbaye, has again pened its doors and one can see, oc- hsionally, some good frocks and bvely women, but the bulk of the ten are American soldiers, dancing he one-step in the American way. Exhibition dancing has evidently rtozen to death by having a wet Uanket thrown over it. Here and here a couple has held the attention € an Audience for a few weeks, but be eof other days for seeing __'rofi oF this season. In Paris, as in Am- rica, the people want to dance them- elves. - They are not willing to share he floor with professionals. There is none of the brilltancy in Vstumery at any of the night res- Burants that one saw before the ar. The gorgeous evening gowns hat were worn at such places as the lafe de Paris, are lacking. During Be season of supBers at the Ure fatelan, which was the late spring acing season, women wore the most Xtreme evening costumes, hut the 're Catelan has devoted its attention © the tea hour and does not encour- &e dinner or supper parties. In the lois, at Armenonville, for instance. | he brilliant costumes worn at the, funday luncheon hour, are sadly | aissed, for they once presented a! rilllant afray of new fashions: any- me who had a vimart hat, a con picuoua frock, a capricious wrap ¥ould wear it 20 the Bois, especially n Sunday, so that all the rest of the | first query | newly arrived American manner in which Paris lay, that is not don The tables ay well filled up at Ar. Renonville, but the women wear coat ults with lingerig or lace blouses, or + soft gilet of colored and metallic _¥rocade, which carries a rolling col- &r and a row of buttons down the fide. When one-piece frocks are rorn they are beige or black snd cut 0 the .accepted bathing suit style, thich rules Parls and amazes Am-] fricans. This frock, after al, Is | Rerely a foundation for & wrap which | 8 loaded with fur or Malf covered vith fringe, and whieh is rarely lift Even in private houses, st the tea | our, women do mot remove their! &pes. THey re a part of the ogs-| use makes a cape! br a frock and no persussion can get! is entirely lack-|- j ough of the ar wiped. ont theses places. |- the ei Without the gown by ona who offers good money for it because it Suits a froek in her possession. 'It would be like selling the coat without the skirt" says the 'vendeuse, and that ends the bargaining. Possibly one of the reasons fine .and brilliant cost restaurants is the limit private motor capriciousness Few women, st at the number of cars and the utter of public chauffeurs. even those of wealth, will risk a smart 'new gown and a thin pair of slippers when there fs no security fegarding her return from the restaurant. : The best peaple in Paris-have used the underground through the vears of the war and this sobered costume. 8IY, a necessity during the summer. The Americans in the minority, those who have Qined h galety that attended the members of 'ommission, and knew en- resident American colony to be included In its entertainments, Wore their best clothes fre« quently, but felt quite conspicuous it x and dagced with the pin THE DAILY britiod WHIG ad brought the gown fronts ver a woman danced in she was the object o not of censure. W said about her was al piimentary, but she did not r she pretended not to un qd it } it 1e fashions in Paris is grotesque t the Parisienne. Neither she; nor he paker, wil admit for a fleet yment that any nation has to invent its own styles; the merely whatever they may be. ? The desire of the American wome to cover as much of her body as pos- sible this season is the supreme jest to French society. Therefore it is a delightful thing to the observer tg £0 to a dinner that includes women who wear eh evening gowns and the Americans who wear Ameri- can frocks. It's a study in human nature." The American is either de- finant, self-gouscious or embarrassed with Ber long tight skirt wrapping her ankles as she dances. The 0 man bobbing around in the jagz with knee length skirts and five- inch bodices is making satirical yo- marks to her partner about thie long skirt of the American and al the rest of the society present is whispering of afguing. The American who is defiant, or Father cooly indifferent is the ode Who comes out victor. The Prench may laugh at°her skirt and her smooth gliding 'step in danting bat the laugh is tinctur d with doubt as to dts propriety, or its reasonable ness, when they observe the Ameri can independence. regarded as barbarians, | i their clothes are laughed at more | n are the costumes of the barbar- | ri ' a Whatever differs from 6 r .1 a set ¥i ng: the peace. The do not indulge in it, u slip into it through cap iress so they w the smart is the small mi 'in Paris. It is a city of many Here deell all the nati The best Americans, alo very n | airlies. with the best British, Russians and Italiane look upon the. Street gatety of Paris on a summer's night as the} chief attraction' of life, and they in-| dulge in It without fear of their so- cial position and without self-consc- ousness. The English and American women, you know, have taught the smart set in Paris to go to the faces. If you re- member the history of the days of the Napoleonic downfall and the pre- ceding years of the revolution, the smart set of Paris which bad sus rounded royalty based thsir entire social customs and fashions on what- ever Was English. It is not English, however, to dance in the street.' It takes a Latin | treak in a nation to make this king { galety spontaneous, colorful ana 'tuslly enjoyable. Paris dances in ie streets and has deen doing it inte the night of the armistice. It is 'be way sheg@muses herself without expense, and ll the strangers within her gates join her in one-stepping to the music of aceordions, or dancing the polka to the fiddle or waltzing to a phonograph placed under the trees that edge the pavement. It is quite all right to begin damcing in a res- tagrant In certain quarters of the city, then to whirl through the doors, heross the pavements and finish the dance in the middle of the street. This {5 made possible and kept {from being ungraceful by the smooth fin- ish of the Paris asphalt. It couldn't 1% done on our cobbled and uneven streets. However, in the old quartess of the city the cobble stones do mot prevent 'some of the best dancers from waltzing the length of the block in the middle of the street. It is easy to imagine that the wo- men whe take part in these danees (frequently they are women who Rave no intefition of doing if when 'they sisrt out for sn evening's gals ety). = wearing decoliete re mot frovks. The clothes are sofalire de- cause of the tenacity with which o+- Lerybody cjings to black and biege over Gere. It would be far moce fas: J cinating if women, especialiy in the old quartet wore brilliant frocks. | 1 not be recognized, | form of amusement rbs even the Americans is Cinema. It has been difficult ! a seat to the moving ctory Parade. It has I success of the season. theatrical performance, certainly Aladdin staged and costumed by | Dakst, has bad anything like the brilliant audiences to be found in the emia houses on the nights that the smart | Parada pictures are given. they | «il the smart world is there, Those rho used periscopes on the day of parade in order to see over the eads of the people, and those who nirrors lashed to umbrella han. RC -- pos ELF BY DANCING AND GOING E VICTORY PARADE PICT { ference. The French woman, even if {she is ifn the very ultra set, wears a coat suit durning, when she is in pub lic, that is as severe es an American j suit of a decade ago. 1 | It would be interesting to watch | the development of this fashion in America and see if the coat and skirt will predominate the froek, The rea- son given for it in Paris is the effort to give work to the demobilized tail- ors. This reason seems plausible, fo: the coat sit has been worn as' ne- i Yer before In Paris since the armis- I tice. We know that Paris made the | frock fashionable throughout the var Because she did not have men to handle the tailored suit and Ameri. x J The French women in their knes len gth skirts and five-inch bodices make satirical remarks about the long skir t the left is of cream lace over gold of black satin and tulle, with jade tulle with bodice and panniers of with paradise at the side. eR broc¢ a hundred yards away, are each and all trying to see in the pictures all | the features they missed. Celebrities are there. Visitors of thigh and significant position, small French women who havé never gone to a cinema house before. One sees there the costumes that are worn in the afte.noon, and even morning; tailored suits and small turbans. The Americans follow:the French custom of dressing quietly for such a per. formance. 14s a great relief to be &ble to do so much in Paris that 1% enjoying without the effort of getting ino a costume that is elaborate and chilly in these damp days, and putt- ing on slippers that demand a taxi and having the hair coiffured. It js a very comfortable life when one can walk to the theafre, wear a simple frock. a good-looking wrap and a tur- ban that can be taken off or left on. The French have ied the way in this trpe of dressing, but it is a dreary aud ence for the fashion reportet and the THustrator. It dees not presen: the brilliant audience of an American theatre, ~~ ¢ Popularity of the Lace Blouse. The growing acceplace of the tail Gred suit is interesting to the Ameri. can © T. Its frequent appear- ance ai restaurants, st the cinema and In all these fascinating pavillon restaurants in the Bois makes obe stop and specplate, What is the rea son? For four years the French have insisted on the one-place frock, and, Over hese wre a vast number of wall dressed French women with plain cots and skirts Jemuraly lined, scan- ty of mateiial, and a chiffon or lace House added. : There are ornamental suits, but ther are ordered American visi. el oth a large black velvet flower at the sid e. of the Americans. The gown on with a girdle of gold tissue and Two French frocks at right, oie klace, and the other a skirt of white aded taffeta. The turban is of tulle | cans may have adopted the fashion for the same reason. The recrudescence of the lace blouse is interesting and the Ameri- Can women who are here have taken up the fashion with a considerable show of enthusiasm. The department shops and all the small shops on the exclusive side Streets offer an amazing variety and assortment of these shirt waists; the ority of them are of net and lice with collars and cuffs of lace. Paris Is using a coarse net lace that has a thick raised design on it; it is more { fashionable than filet. There are skel- flon waistcoats of lace which show that the French woman Hoes not re- move her coat until she removes her shirt. This lace guimpe or gilet, as the French call ft, is a dominating gar- ment. It has a sailor collar oftener thin a rolled collar and the front of it is made entirely of lace with a bold design. Dead white is rarely Seen. All the mét and lace looks as though it were flipped in strong tea. There are few muslin. blouses and very few Georgette crepe ones, There fever has been a time when Parls bas exhibited so many colored blouses. It is considered quite smart to wear a short vest with ia roiling collar in an extravagant colored ma- terial, such as iris blue satin broead- ed with silk, or oyster white satin stamped with leaves of gold, or ger- anlum silk with , circles of silver, There are very fow white vests, or skeleton blouses, gs they really are, except those in white chiffon or lace, The rest of them are brilliant in co- lor and bigh in price. these tallored sults is the guimpe of 4 siriped red and white linen, tors and the ladies of the Peace Coa- * ar silk. The stripes go up and down GE NINE URE waist, and on ir. 'These sketeton b rning, and ones in the af omespuk, 3 a cravat gir e world should 'be is somew and the ¢ dle The Short Serge Cape. fa wr i a tailored rge or pun leads reich to in {ront, and a hem in 1elimes blue. ten orna- bands, the 1tline squares 3 needed wi dinar When serge | mented with ads pulle ¢f the mate These seams agg s oe worn 'y no quite than the satin lined; their 1g ) and lodk better. cape. They give more warmth 8 something can has desired this The price of wood een few Am- 1 it has not been on to dry out ) warm it. , along with all ( re important ex- 1 reduces one's letter of f paper. So, he A't cross the oe- you are will- : twice the ma- allowed. It's not more n New York, but it is r as cheap as Paris in pre- penses, soc credit to warned in oan un Guimpe of cream lace worn with a duvetyn suit for afternoon. _ Another feature of fashion with |