FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 7, 1919. Bare Backs Are Sens g Manage =) 2 0s Callot head aress o ered with ostrich backleas bodice Jenny's clever desi ing the shoulder place, showing n for hold- siraps Wn & | man. | stals that runs across the shoulders bodice in front, THE DAILY BRITISH WHIG ational Even rs as Shown in the a mere girdle at the nequins start fashions they are apt back, and a harness of scarlet and | to become accepted by the populace. black satin ribbon that came over | Jean Patou. by the way, is one of the the shoulder, extended down the back and wrapped once around the arms Such the slim. If they were worn by the stout, a woman would appear like a queen of the harem. There is one exceptionally good idea in Jegny's new bodices for the conservative' wo- It is the fragile chain of ery- at the back and holds the bodice drapery in its place om top of the shoulder. All gowns are sleeveless and, as every woman knows, there is a struggle to keep the small should er straps of such evening gowns in place. If one dances, the shoulders of an evening frock are constantly falling downward over the arm, and even at dinner parties the slightest movement of the body is apt to bring down the shoulder of the decollete gown. Few women and few dress makers have been able to remedy this ugly trick. Jenny remedies it in one stroke by holding the two pleces together by the thin chain of Jewels that stretches across the back and sinks into the flesh. One of her | most frequently repeated tricks is to run a colorful strand of beads across the top of the shoulder line at the back and from the middle of this strand, right at the bone at the nape of the neck, she drops another strand | of the same beads that hangs to the hem of the skirt. If one notices small tricks in fashion, the tendency to put floating ribbons somewhere in the back of a costume is everywhere observed. Lanvin uses immense sep- | arate collars of mouftion and Mongo- lie on her tailored suits which are tied at their lower edge, at the left { shoulder with a small bow of double | faced satin ribbon which has stream- | ere that hang to the knees. | designers will put a tiny bow in Other Nattier blue or citron yellow of vel- vet ribbon at the back of the evening fashions are only fori:nnot, who cater to lesser known new French houses, like Charlotte and Germaine and Vie- the exclusive European women and to whom the American buyers go for gowns which they hope will not be widely com- mercialized. The life of the average French model is short in the sar- torial world of America. The houses clear them out in about a month, and then there is a search for something different. It is to these houses that the smart French women go for cloth es that are different from the models sold fn suih large quantities by the famous houses to the American trade. It is said that Viennot will not make a gown for you unless she likes your face. She is entirely in- dependent of any especial person's patronage, it would seem. She is like a portrait painter or a sculptor. She says that she does not care to put clothes on certain types of wo- men and that she likes to dress only the women who recommend them- selves to her thropgh some especial charm. Jean Patou is not so diffi eult to please, but he caters to an exclusive trade. He never accen- tuates the mode. He does not depart from it in a startling manner, but he modifies and moulds it to suit the wo- men who have the old adage in their minds not te be the first to accept the fashion nor the last to give it up When a house of strength an. nounces its intention to emphasize to Theatrical 4 | Paris Gowns This Season | It only depended upon a buyer's in- clipation as to what method should be chosen. Then came that actual- ly wide skirt, fitted at the hips, flar- ing toward the ankles. It is the skirt of 1895. It is difficult to eut, it is not easy to wear. Yet it is a pronounced fashion. It may be a forerunner of what we will wear in Decembér. Last February. you re- member, the skirt with crinoline on the hops was introduced and not sc- cepted by America. Today its silhou- eta prevails in all the French collec. tions, even though modified. The same fate may be in store for the many-gored skirt. It may be a sen- sation today and an everyday fashion tomotrow. One thing is true: A long full skirtiand a long full coat com- bine to make the ugliest costume in the annals of fasMon. No woman can. adopt the suit and preserve 'a remnant of grate or youthfulness. If the gored skirt is accepted it must be as part of a frock and not a suit The skirts that go with knee-length jackets are wider than they have been for three years Few of the houses of any importance continue to make the very narrow skirt that has been worn by France since $916 No skirt fits on the hips. ness at the waistband which is us- nally emphasised at the hips, and there are pockets or pipings or in- serted bands of the material cut on the bias, to take away any percept- fble curve of the hips. Even though women do not remove their they do not attem fitting skirts coats Pt to wear tightly- All garments are full it has full. | the: collections, especially when day | gowns are shown is of blue serge | Afternoon and evening gowns are of : taffeta. The Americans do not like either of these fabrics for the win- | ter, although they are lenient to light | colored taffetas for evening frocks, | especially for young girls. But the | evening (rocks for matrons are of | bisck., and even Lanvin attempts, | with success, to create youthful | frocks in black taffeta for the after noon, She may be able to do what others cannot. i The blue serge frock which is so | universal here will probably be re- | peated in other fabrics in America } We are quite willing to accept the | material when the spring comes, but it is not suitable for our cold weather | and it does not go with fur.. Fortu- | nately, velours de laine is fashion- | able if mot as popular as blue serge and Americans like it. Its pliability, | Splendid head dress by Callot ! There is a twisted band of cloth | of silver, with loops of pearls | falling from each side and a scarlet plume rising high front PAGENINE | ------------------------------ Skirts Are Several Inches Shorter Than the French Women Have Worn Thém, and the 11-Gored Skirt Makes lis Appearance. Width at Hem Accepted.--American Public ~ Will: Have Much to Consider. | aris, Oct. 13~-The collection of gowns shown by houses large and small in Paris creates afeeling of alarm among the buyers. What will the American women accept? is the houtly question. And it is really im- bortant to know what the American women will do. During the last win- ter we heard much of the extraordin- ary glothes worn by the French as a repetition of their sartorial behayl atoter SHEPUHIONE Whoo The ok toire 'period was repeated This is an old story. Yet it comes with the force of a h or blow between the oyes to the Americans who observe these daring costumes for the first time. It is one th 20 read sbout them, and another to see them. The ressmakets fn Paris did not Besitate er : at semd-n ¥. They emphasized it. {0 vrance in considerable measure. 1 the observer feit that the clothes| The prices paid by the French and Were an, idle dréam of the dressmak-| other Buropeans for the villas at ors, that feeling was altered when the | Deauville and the rooms at the smart French women were sen at Dauville hotels would have restored several and Biarritz going the dressmakers villages in the devastated regions of a bit better. During the week of France. Of course peoples have a the Grand Prix at Deauvile there right to spend the money they own, were clothes worn by well-known but it gives the American a shock 'women which have never been 8-1 to gee such gorgeous and brilliant homptad since Barras was the dictator! gpg reckless prodigaiity at so serious a uxemburg palace. A woman time in the life of France. If one in his time was publicly hissed on the could sum up the fashions worn at Deauville one would put it that Boulevards for A Jn an un- lined tulle amnd there was a Woman of his entourage who appeared | S5iTtS are longer and practically in an opera box with mo material] (TRSParent, which is coquetry of a above her waisi and the flesh covered | XIRd: Yhat evening bodices are With a harness of diamonds. These [OTE®0US because they are composed clothes were almost repeated at Oeau-' °f Pink or brown skin and a harness iville. That lovely spot on the Nor-| of Jewels. Bare legs are frequent {mandy const, where the races are! 20d they are not in the ieast shock. did after the horrors of the French | Revolution? 'One could fill a chap- ter with the various details of the | Semi-costumes which were worn at | Deauville and one should write al book to go along with the other his- | tories of the war concerning this su- | preme height to which extravagance, i folly, costumery and gambling ros during the Grande Semaine at De wile; the "frst" drier War was cluded and peace was ratified. honey that passed over the ta ° Afa rooms was greater | than any mount concelved ans | the regency > Sects IV when he Was master of Bath, The money that passed hands at the race pnd was enough to help the national war debt leine, go back to the Vampire robe of jet, slightly wrinkling over the waist and hip line with the tulle, mi- nus the jet, sweeping the ankles Worth makes an evening gown of this jet in gold and white, in Which the tulle comes to the instep. Tod Eloguent, It was the young barrister's chance. The court bad appointed him to defend the prisoner, who was charged with theft. And he proceed- ed to make the most of it. After his | impassioned appeal on behalf of his | poor helpless client many spectators | were sobbing, while even the jury- men were furtively using their hand- kerchiefs. Then the prisoner bestir: red himself, turning to the warder with the question: "Who's the bloke wot's been talking?" '"That's your counsel," replied the official grufly. "He has been pleadihg for you." "Ain't 'e a dismal chap!" commented the prisoner. 3 Sr ------ Cleaning London's Alr. Unsuspecting Londoners wonid probably be very umcomfortable if they knew what the Atmosphere Pollution Research Department ree cently discovered about their city: that each cubic inch of air in the vicinity of London contains six mils lion particles of dust. Pure moun fain. air contains only thirty thou. sand such icles to the inch. Gems, 908, 'axe so plentiful that it is estimated a man putting in a ten-hour day in the eity itihales Some thirty-seven million microbes of all kinds, It has been put up to the Atmos Research Depart ment (0 find a remedy. Wedding gown by Callot. The hooped skirt is of tulle em- broidered in fine silver thread and ornamented with ful blown white roses. The train is of cloth of silver, with one im- mense wliite rose, the price of silk stockings that last a day. Copper colored legs in the morning with short jersey cos- fumes and brown suede sandals lac- od with copper colored ribbon are rather artistic. The Americans never thought they would approve of bare legs, but there is a feeling of len- lency toward them now that may come from familiarity, or trom the dea that : the : sho to the American buyers, and ing to tulle gown and the bodice made form a loose harness of jewels Was worn without hissing. In that ! difference between the el physchologist to go t uld caus the 0 go to work, Tn Barras's time the women 'were hissed. 'In Polncare's time the women met with ent. Has ~ hunanity sunk a bit lower than it phere Pollution - Ninety French families with nine hildren living will each year here ter receive donations monnting 5,000 francs each, a Paris ays. The French Academy has Just 'eceived 8 donation for the founda- tion of this work from M. and Mme. Cognacq, 'amount of the capital fo Ee Eh 2 ninety donations ranes an- AND SIMPLE WAY LS, : ; . Sh ually it would at the present inter- TO TREAT AD RELIEVE 7 2 = 5 el fF est rates Be at least 40,000,000 If you have ecatarrh, catarrhal h 3 deafness or head noises caused by ca- ID Jessen any shocking effect tarrh, or if phlegm drops in you Bomach or Devel so De stom or you will these distressing tra- Railway System earnin rom Oct. 21st to 1319: 1919, i b+ f $2,418,862; 1918, 157.306; Increase, $261 > Harness for a Bodice. At the house of Jenny the evening fared at Decuriler They. among the had not been in F » . Women silk reelers in China re Siive Irom eight to eleven cents » § HH thy =f: : E §5n7 iif g f a5 < 5 i g i 5 257 pit ; "i oh!