: 2: WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 10, 1919 ) AND LEATHER CLOTHES | STANDARD FOR THE STREET The Donkey Panier, Which Spain Made Fashionable, Is Now Revived. Skirts Are Still Short in the New F a) would be strictly truthful, for Martial | et Armand, who shows this remark-| h Cloth- {ably lovely Boyard costume, also| os, But Full, and There Are Wide Tunics to Overhang a | shows ome of dull reddish duvetyn, | Narrow Hem. . The Velasquez Fashion Strongly Featured and Modifications Still Show Fullness at or Below the Directoire Collars Mount to the Chin. Hips. DI fies of Early 18th Century Paris, +. --Paris skirts are still short. "That they are full as well as short does not add to their grace. And that their fulness reaches its widest dimensions over the hi 18 a statement that dismays t stoutest heart among women. If one wants the silhouette of. the hour, as it is shown in the new Paris clothes, one can look at a picture by Vel %z to get it in its extremest foim, but even then one will not have gotten a complete conception of the Rona Sure of he woran-of She bar r as it is forme er new frock. : Plier new) The Spanish: panier, which, in its day, was a humorous adaptation of the large baskets balanced on each side of a donkey, the commonest form of transportation, and which one sees today on Spanish and Italian roads, is which has a slim frock as its fou -| ition and a swinging Venetian cape as| | 1 accessory. a t's t fa) | ] ere is no attempt to put fulness . Fluted Ruf- {on the hips of this gown and it is of | Are Revived. the type that an American -woman . would carry off with distinction. When L son. There may be a chance for their the mannequin entered, she looked as alteration {though she might be a page in an | Italian opera or a youth in a Vene- 8 . | tian masque. The pinkish tone that Widely Varying Clothes. - {came through the duvetynm was miys- | There is a wide variety of clothes | co his and attractive. thown in Paris and again one feels "myl® iC eo the figure' from the lack of great leaders of fashion |; "pip rolling collar to its short, who sift the chaff from the wheat | very short, hem. It was fasténed in a | and impress a certain style upon the | XACT JOM 8 as Sant ned the | entire public. Whatever gowns are |) with jet nail heads and the waist | made with fulness on the hips, how- | was loosely girdled with a belt made ever, are newer than those worn by | of tiny squares of jet held with - the Frenc "women --all-summer, for loops. Over this slim founda the sienne, in contradistinction to {was a coat of the same material lined Americans; has not deviated from { with heavy pinkish red chiffon. The the chemise frock and the tailored | | 1 of the cape was decorated with suit with its straight knee-length | floriated design cut out from dull coat and a skirt that reached only a jaek leather, an exceedingly soft lea- | few. inches below the coat, : ther that had no polish. It was old} one Jikes to go from opening to | Italian work, of the Kind thes England | opening at the different houses 0 | and Spain once adopted. 7 make a study of how the hip dimen- | Madame Valle, of Martial ot Ai | These paniers were imi- ; that a different silhou- launched today. The Spanish panier is a straight distension of the hip line, which per- the material to fall in lamp g effect to its hem. This hem not flare. It is not as wide as the It has a tendency to curve ward towged the leg. At some of the big houses there are sions are obtained. A summary of mand, is exceedingly proud of these | them would fl] a small book. Hav-| . he rork-| | ing agreed on he essential features |Broeks an a she Shaws 3ha fre ark Be soe meter a tt cunt fh dal dei gon rE by to | pri le and approval, She has an ven: | hess, bi wor he et vy WIelr ling gown of white kid whieh no one | or me dite ne ats A ois OVeT lean deny is a startling sensation. | ® Thar 18 the avium amet Th Nant for Shoes, when iy worn y i out," suggests the vendeuse. - e sxiliofing Support that [ounds itself | price of leather is so high that you wher th e hp A a Snces Ju8ell ican save by buying this gown and | a Mb all de laden baskets | LUTinE it to MARY uses when the 3 2 | style has vanished. ay ng se perfect blade om the | This white kid frock is really soft | : bli a ind ey who am es along. land supple. There is nothing about | ong, mind you, is the new kind [it that makes the wearer awkward or | of walk that will have to come with {ungraceful. It will be hard to make | ge modifications of this of another century; gowns are built of metallic! bullion fringe and embroid-|in Paris, with th to reflect the extravagance of | t left its impress on the owns merely incorporating fulness _at the hips, | are few at are flat] on the hips. Jackets, long and short, | als & A a at Bheir i fulness out from side of the waist Te and becomes overhanging eaves the skirt that also Crinoline is plentiful, but it is not + used at knees or hem of skirts. ts duty is to hold out the fulness ex- gh transparent fabric, and, their identity also dis- close the reason for their presence. Each house has qts own way of handling the Danier, and one set of | B costumes than - Aa Takis a daring wo- | 'aan to wear the genuine asquez skirt, but for the s t, the middle- aged, and even the rvative wo- men there are types of clothes with fulness at the hips that are very ae« ceptable, As the season progresses dozens of | the wai wae oo ming fulness at 8 will appear, an silhouette will be modified, recast, and will probably settle down into a safe and sane fashion. At the pres- "cont hour it is quite alluring, espec- jally as it gives the American com- me! & new thing to offer. It is really not new; it was advane- | id Jas February, and several months | ore American houses had deter- | mined to demobilize the short scant | skirt and bring in those with the : top outline and the fulness that not disclose the actual measure- ments of the hip. ; { The type of fulness which is des- jriihed as Spells folds, and od the pocket, gaping open at ips, and' boldly ornamented to jiosenfuate its presence, are eatures to the dressmake: to manage it. possible, however, th will do for this 4 Remove . poisons liver and T ; i refore more graceful | pipes, so widely rounded that they | blue serge and gabardine or , i : the donkey panier, for no woman CAN [the public believe this, but if th 'h | z y public believe this, but if the gown | go briskly trotting through the | becomes anything of a fashion in Am- | streets, or dance the jazz as she does | arica, it will be not especially notleed, {unless oné draws attention to it from | of ae {fhe i reason of the fineness of the | ae Th material. : i If she adopts, oo SataRtely Spanish The perforation done on the Kid is | : . 3 ¢ exactly like that of paper sold for! See Mmohious air she Joust Reeds have | jantry shelves. The foundation of | Vie ao snown as the Throne Walk. | the frock is of white chiffon with a yivacity must be confined to the face, | hom of kid; there is a wide apron Jiveliness to the expression, It must | ghat hangs 'in points in the middle! ept from the gait, {and each side 'of the perforated Xid, : : : : $a ia half low bodice of white ifton | coils type of hip Smaugion i ot ledged with kid and a sash of the plain | The | Kid edged with gold braid. Bernard launched at the openings h | f % is another house that sponsors the Others run down the scale all the way | forated kid gown. | from side accordion pleats, stiffened | eT x y > i {By the way there is a chance for a| by buckram that stand straight out {vopular Oty in this sash of supple | for ux inches on each side of the | Cite kid. It is not long merely al that Siig Rah hae godet folds | po inch girdle with the regulation tunic. The at hi dimension an | bow and ends about ten inches long quite fascinating. It ca ified | 2t the back. The gold galloon at the | 7 g. can be modified ed ives it oh ter to a practical size. These pleats are | °C8¢ gives it character, ©. =A quite stiff. have their edges turned | The shops could line it with colored outward, and are Jressed Into such chiffon or satin and present it as an flatness that they keep their position | accessory, It would be a eommend-| hike an open fan over each hip. There | able addition to several kinds of ne- | ther pleats that are like organ niece frocks, especially those of dark] sport Martia et] her hips. fppear to bo made of something stif- | frocks of colored linen: fer than clath.. These are placed | Armand show another kid _ gown| down each hip. . [which they insist is for sports and that the front and back | especially for the Americans, skirts are flat, There is 70 lof pale pink trimmed with fur; thee fulnéss there. There is no fulness in is a. long tunic and a short narrow | the bodice. The figure is so closely | skirt and a girdle, - it looks as though | confined with eloth at hem, at waist | jt might be pale pink broadcloth, One | and at neck. So odd is the silhouette [has to handle it to find out that it is | In some gowns that all ohe sees is a lcather., The VAmerican woman wore | straight line between outspreading | brown leather skirts and coats last curves, | winter for genuine sports, you re-| | member, and she may not feel as Stiffened Organ Pleats, {though she would like to play golf in| There is one f a suit of pale pink kid and black fur, immense organ frock that has these |; ¢ it should prove an admirable if they were made of sheet iron down | fashion for the winter in Palm Beach. | each side of a cloth skirt. The jacket | Bernard on the the Avenue da POnesy has the pleats front and back and: i s | Also features colored and white kid; ! fiat and plain at sides, just reversing | 1¢ makes an admirable belted storm | the manipulation of the skirt, The | C08 of pale brown kid with a high sleeves to this frock are long and bell. | colar that Protects the entire face shaped, the collar is straight and high een tte Sves; It oo died Nib 4 asta med at the side; it is made | and fastened with kid covered but. | . One of the best developments of the | 105 i fulness at the hips is shown in & tunie | He also makes a storm coat of high- | Placed over a black velvet skirt. The|ly polished black leathér, whieh! material is like silk poplin, exquisitely | should be called "Gloucester," for it is the color is a deeper blue | highly reminiscent of the glistening than a cornflower. Over the surface | coats worn by the fishermen who go| a rare kind of embroidery, done | to the banks from the New England | thread, Tt is vague, not | coast. This coat has' a short cape | back and front are | that bécomes a tight hood, fastening | straight panels not | in pleats over each temple. | 5 'This idea of making a- begin | ® hood is carried out in another en- i hips has been | veloping motor coat of fur and duve- ruched, Which makes the tunic pos-|'YT. Which is the kind of wrap one sible for stout women. The high col- | Would any subur would lar merely. rises about the in The | KTasp at for evening wear, black velvet skirt is short and nar. | Makes an enveloping cape of perfor-| row Over the costume goes a black id white kid trimmed with sable. velvet coat. that hides the tunic |. BY way, as 'this house stands Which means that it reaches to within | {OT ane of the best types of tailored inches of fit and caters strongly to the Am- on of the edge of the skirt, rican trade, it is well to know thot & om has pleated paniers attung- his coats drop to the knees over skirts ves a chance for the a ens og of, kind als ue tunic beneath not manipulation of drapery at the hips to ive width, but this Grapes is -------- below the actual waist gt gir Esk ih 2: fit a55s2 £2 ; : iE i 5 ssf g 7 5 8 if Eoin i _THE DAILY BRITISH WHIG > voLLXV]I COS This Month Cover: Idle Moments The American Girl Meredith Nicholson Decoration by W. T. Benda Buddies ¥ John A. Moroso Y Tllustrated by Edward L. Chase "Kindred of the Dust : a Peter B. Kyne Illustrated by Dean Cornwell n \ = RR Nhe WR NN DN a oN = Back Pay : , Fannie Hurst Illustrated by W. D. Stevens The Water-Cross Jack Boyle Illustrated by Lee Conrey That Girl 7 RX QAR Gouverneur Mortis Illustrated by G. Patrick Nelson The Stage To-day Photographs in Artgravure Why Do They Marry? Dana Gatlin Tlustrated by Howard Chandler Christy, Uneasy Street : 'Illgstrated by James Montgomery Flagg The Broken Flange Rupert Hughes Tilustrated by Walt a Messing Around in Mexico ' Rex Beach Tllustrated with photographs The Crimson Tide Tlustrated by Grant T. Reynard An Iskwao for Trésor Tllustrated by Paul Bransom BL tr rms csi ci bE is ip: ot * Wheeler Wilcox rthur Somers Roche ¢ Robert W. Chambers James Oliver Curwood NOVEMBER 1010 MOPOLITAN Americas Greatest Magazine Lo | Trikes el. 1 ore is just one magazine for which the American people have shown an overwhelming preference ; just one magazine that has almost a million and a quarter circulation at twenty-five cents a copy. It is, naturally, the magazine that gives the American public the best work of the greatest writers and artists in the best magazine that it is possible to produce. HEN you buy this month's Cosmo- politan, you w*l! have in your hands the finest product of the art of magazine making. From the newest novel by Peter B, Kyne to . the latest short story by Fannie Hurst, Cos- mopolitan, page by page, easily maintains the high standard of editorial éxcellence that has ° given it the title, "America's Greatest Magazine." : : Indeed, Cosmopolitan is one of the few really great, really important magazines in this country. To read Cosmopolitan each month is to keep abreast with 'the best literature of our day---literature that entertains and in- spires by portraying human emotions against. a backg of the play of circumstances and the whims of Fate. of more than twelve If you are a regular reader of Cosmopoli- tan, you had better hurry and get your copy now -- today =-as it will not linger on the stands. If you are not a regular reader, begin' now to enjoy the magazine that is most typical of the fine taste and the high spirit hundred thousand Americans. : And Cosmopolitan for a year, by the way, makes a most excellent Christmas gift. Your . newsdealer will be glad to handle your maga- zine Christmas gift list for you. And without extra charge, the publishers of Cosmopolitan will send the recipient of each gift subscription a handsome Xmas folder, decorated by W. T. Benda, to reach them on Christmas morning. : ~