® LN, Ny Rel SY Some Coats Have Buttons Down the Back -- Tassels a Foot Long On Sashes vest. This sult ives a good idea of Levervwhere--as tor With Spring Suits -- Most | Coat Sleeves Require ~ Natural Linen With Bal- kan Embroidery. HERE is nothing staid or digni- fied about the 1921 spring sult. A gay and fetching little affair is its Jacket, falling only a few inches buiow the waistline and opening In front to reveal a bright-hued vest. Most of these little jackets have loose three-quarter sleeves and many models are collarless. They are de- cldedly feminine in style and resem- ble nbt at all the mannish, huttoned- up coat with long tight sleeves that accompanies what is known as "a plain tailored suit," Far from plain is the spring tall- leur. 'Embroidery, buttons, buckles and ev.n tassels make it a captivating , affair--if you prefer feminine effects in tailored clothes. If your fancy is for sterner, more masculine tailored Wear you must confine yourself to a sport suit this season. Sport suits hold to boyish effects; to collars with lapels, to Norfolk belts, pockets and plain sleeves; but all tailored models intended for more formal wear are gay as gay can be. , Skirts Short And Scant There is not much change in suit skirts, They are still very narrow and straight of line, though there is evi- dence, in spring frocks, tat skirts are going to be much wider and some- what longer very soon. . Sult skirts, however, seem to have decided to make themselves as unobtrusive as possible in order that jackets may have all the glory. Some of the skirts have an Irregular edge--a style fea- ture of the season--and the width around the hem is from a yard and a quarter to a yard and a half ~--never more than that. In length the skirts of spring suits are from eight' to twelve inches from the ground,' the former length preferred. This is a good length, just over the top of a smart buttoned walking boot. A shorter skirt is apt to clear the top of the boot and show the stocking-- never a graceful effect. : All suit skirts are very flat at the back, but sometimes there 1s a sug- gestion of drapery toward the front, or there are panels at the sides. Some- times these panels drop below the edge of the skirt, or are looped up Long Gloves -- Vests of | 207°C @LSLZZEY CSE Jaunty Little Jackel with Double Box Pleats == Creag Ly roesier Worelbroe I< a A Ls CCS Acannix Short Coat. with Loose Sleeves and Demdé lim § Tasaels 2 amn------ Batels Lo ® Authoritative Sprin }gdel in the 1 Gray Shade CAL 2K hy | | i A Londewr, Jacket with Erobyroidery and the Flowing Yeeve Effect instance tassels the short jaunty jacket of spring. | sewed for tassels' own sake on the Flatly pressed box pleats at back and | underarm seam of a spring coat, Who- front increase the effect of fullness | ever heard of such a thing before? | without spoiling the straight lines and | On the turban: with its white straw the inevitable touch of embroidery 1s | shown in lines of fagoting u pleats. This suit Is of dark blue trico- tine and is ah especially engaging Spring model. The narrow, pla skirt has excellent lines and its length Is about ten Inches from the ground. With the suit you are afforded a glimpse of a very pretty new spring hat--one of those cunning tricornes with black velvet ribbon showing through eircular openings in the brim, and a bunch of cherries dangling over one ear. Tasscls Everywhere This disc effect on millinery Is shown In another picture which pres- ents 'a very stunning spring suit of dark blue serge. Another abbreviated Jacket, you see, and another perfectly plaint straight skirt. There is a dainty, graceful wrap suggestion about this little jacket, which should be delight- fully easy to slip on and off. The loose sleeves are set in large armholes and at the sides the jacket is ex- tremely short, the front and back dip- ping down a trifle. The embroidery on jacket and cuff is done in black silk and long black silk tassels swing from the Ginder-arm seams over each hip. Tassels are fairly running riot this season. They are so fashionable that they are attached anywhere and R the box in | ©ffect on long sashends. son. graceful fringed or tasseled sash, tied | at one side with ends falling over the | skirt. discs Is a long white silk tassel--but, | of 'course, one has become used to tas- | sels on hats. | Still another suit shows the tassel | This is a| very notable style feature of the sea-| Many and many a sult has the With the very short jacket of | LonA Tassels on Sas The bs WOT S&L Jide are a FTegture of Tew Suits the season the sash is a particularly pretty addition to a suit. Sometimes the sash fringe or tassel Is made of! | bright colored silks--a specially gay | effect. The suit pictured is of dark Hayy Blue Suit Embyoid- ei A blue tricotine--most spring -suits are dark blue or gray one notices--and the jacket has a circular cut, a flounce Set under the edge giving the effect of a double jacket. Embroidery in gray, blue and tan makes a bordér on the skirt ind touches the jacket here and there in small motifs.. The sash has both fringe and tassels, the tas- sels suspended amid the fringe on wooden beads that echo the colors in the embroidery. This suit has a slightly fuller skirt with circular cut | that Is extremely graceful. It has the | length that younger women are affect. that women coat. have a knees, become kind in silken and so ably four out abandoned the petticoat for those bi- furcated garments variously bloomers, knickers, pantablooms and pantalettes. ' There are women who never feel comfortably warm without a petti~ Even the thinnest musiin pet- ticoat Seems enough to keep them from catching cold, while in a pair of close fitting jersey knickers they a deal more comfortable. is something appealing to all woman- THE PET TICOn + FIRST COUSIN F you happen to be one of the women who have stuck to the idea a petticoat is an indispensable adjunct of feminine costume, you probably do not dream how, many do not wear petticosts. Prob- of. five women have called shivery sensation about the The knickers are really warm- er; of course, and when once you have accustomed to them, they are But there the idea of a petticoat--par- ticularly if it is a pretty petticoat of stuff--and there seems not much danger that bloomers, knickers or pantalettes will ever entirely oust the dainty petticoat from its firm posi- tion in feminine favor. This winter che petticoat 1s a gar- ment for wear with evening dress rather than with street clothes. Tafl- ored skirts are almost invariably worn over well fitted pantalettes of silky' Jersey material. Skirts are so narrow plain that a petticoat under neath is apt to get Into lumps and spoil the slim line of the silhouette. And unless it is made of the softest, AND, 11s de chine. One pair had ruffles of point e below the knee. One "illustration shows a pair of pantalettes of gray satin meteor to accompany a talloréd suit, If you want to try wearing a pair of pantalettes with your spring suit, buy a ready-made pair by all means. It requires no small amount of skill to cut and fit one of these garments. 1 You may be able to do it after sev- eral trials but it is almost certain your first pair of pantalettes will be either too loose or too tight and will ybe baggy And binding at the wrohg places, 7Another illustration shows a new street petticoat; very trim afd slim of line, you see, so that it will not spoil the silhouette of a plain cloth skirt, or a draped one of soft silk or satin. The top is of silk jersey and there are as few gathers as possible at the waistline. The flounce is ae- cordion pleated and though itis amply tufl for grace there is no flare to the petticoat. The flounces are made of satin, with appliqued trimming' of nar- row ribbon--a new and very pretty idea. On the dancing petticoat you may have all the flounces and frills you want--oprovided it is to be worn under a frock that flares from waistline to hem. If the frock is one of those clinging, draped affairs with classic lines, no petticoat for you, but a pair of clingihg silk knickers! of this season's dance frocks have drapery falling from a distended hip- But many |. smooth and incapable of that abom-~ ination--"riding-up." One model Is made in two stwaight breadths, slight- ly "fitted at the hip and the breadths are not seamed together below the knee, oluny edging running around the foot of the petticoat and up the slashes at either side. Unless you are very slender and don't care how narfow a petticoat is, buy your next ready-made one sev« eral sizes too long for you. It will also be too large around at the walst- line. Cut"the petticoat in two mid~ | way, fit the upper part carefully to {your own anatomy giving smooth, | sleek lines over the hip, and then | gather the lower part to this fitted | upper, turning the seam smoothly agd | pressing well™®n the wrong side. You will have a graceful petticoat a little wider thah the skimpy ready-made measurement allows and no unneces- sary bulk over the hips. - ered with Pale. Gray Wool Ing in New York just now. Here again, .you note, is the loose sieeve whichyrequites a long-wristed glove. One of the handsomest suits of the spring scason is a Lanvin model in black. The short, loose cost is em= broidered almost all over in a soroil pattern in white silk and the coat is lined with white, a tall collar folding" down to show the white facing. With this" suit comes a detachable cape lined with white. With the cape swinging back of the shoulders and falling to the walstline the effect is very smart, but since the entire back of the jacket is covered with rich embroidery,™ it is fortunate that the cape can be discarded when ole chooses. p Paris Tries To Introduce Fitted Jacket Even Paris will not prophesy the spring siljouette. absolutely. Nobody knows whlch 1s going to have the favor; the loose, short Jr "ket or the fitted coat with flaring peplum. Many of the most authoritative Frénch tall leurs have this fitted effevy, 'but most of the American manufacturers sedm a bit afrald of it and are confining their output to short, loose jackets opening over little vests. One of the 'peplum models 1s pictured--a sult of gray velour. The jacket has seams and darts and clings to the figure closely, outlining shoulder and arm in very trim effect. The narrow belt of gray suede fastens with a gray pyrox= lin buckle and the peplum is made of circular gores stitched together. THe '| straight skirt laps across to one side and fastens with a big fancy gray button. Two sults with jackets neither short and saucy, nor fitted and flafing, are pictured. They will woman Who dislikes extreme styles and there are plenty of these graceful, straight-line models. One suit is of navy blue tricotine with bands of pale gray embroidery. The coat has a op belt and the fronts separate an In or 80 to show a vest of hand embroid- ered linen of fine quality. This cost has a long but loose sleeve, not an ordinary coat sleeve, The other model is of black gabardThe--and black sults with black and white hats are very fashionable for spring. This jacket has a long collar which extends 'al- most to the belt and the belt is & mere string tipped with silk-covered acorns. ere is much embroidery, - in black on the back of the jacket and on the pockets, and the cuffs are em- broidered; but the collar is véry plain, Another new style point! Long-wrist- ed white gloves and a small bisck please the silkiest material a petticoat will make a narrow dress skirt "ride up" in dis- tressing manner. If you have ever tried to economize by buying a cheap petticoat of imitation silk fabric and essayed to wear it under a skirt of taffeta, crepe de chine or satin, yous know what this distressing "riding-up" result is. Petticoat and dress skirt wind about your limbs and the edge underneath, giving the irregular edge so fashiondble now. Vests Ot Embroigered Linen Fashion has gone mad over linen, now that she can have all she wants of it again after the war, and is introduced into many spring costumes, In suits it is used for gay little vests. These are made of heavy linen In nate line and the Spanish inflifénce in dress is bringing in flounced and flaring eve- ning gowns. And with these gdwns go dainty petticoats as a fifitter of cou The pictured petticoat is made peach prank satin cut out in deep scal- lops that are hand embroidered at the | edge, with festoons of embroidered roses and leaves done in each scallop straw turban with white uncurled ostrich fccompany the black suit. WN Petticoats Street Frocks Have Pleated Silk Ruffies Trintined With Appliques Of Lural tint with bright colored embroid- ery in Balkan designs. Vests of ribbed ottoman silk are seen also, but the embroidered linen vest is smarter. Coat fronts close in various Ways over | the dainty. vests. Rare is the jacket front that closes In the ord con- ventional way---in a straight line and with buttons and buttonholes. One of ' 'the suits pictured 'has a!l its buttons Of thé dress skirt anchors Itself just below your knees as you walk. only way te pace very slowly and with tiny, mine ing steps. \ So, since good. silk petticoats have bpen expensive luxuries for the past year or twe, women have taken to knickers. And having discovered the comfort of the knickers, th The vold the disaster is to are dollars--one with a jersey top and a flounce or pleated ruffle of taffeta or setin--and perhaps with failing pet- ticoat prices women will return to their first love, the petticoat; and for- get about the bloomers, knickers and pantalettes. But one hardly knows; thest bifurcajed garments have taken. & firm hold on feminine fancy. There] are flesh pink silk pantalettes to go in shades of pink and silvery green. Under the scallops Is aydeep pleated flounce. : vogue for lace In costume I8 bringing back lace fiounced petticoats and some of them are exquisitely beaun- tiful, as for, instance a dancing - ticoat of silver tissue with flounces of white shadow lace, looped here and there with pale blue sitk buds. bunny, which you Joy in tossing to each bean-bag bunny is made with ears lined with /pi eyes and whiskers added tail is the final of For children's . th skipping ropes pink hemp wooden handles painted pink and namented with bright-colored ery rhyme figures. The best skipper takes the rope home "For wear with tub frocks at the South- 'land there are petticoats of white Jinen with fleunces of ungathered filet or cluny lace. Very satisfactory pet- ticoats. these, the linen cool and In a row down the back of the jacket Evin A button-in-back effect.. At the front the jacket el at the neck with a single. buttoh land the front edges fall loosely over an Smbroidered loathe to abandon them, th slik Detticoats are again within the reach {of average folk and not for platocrats alonn. You can plek wp a very sat- Isfaciory street petticoat now for five with dance frocks; and even bridal gowns, this season -- the clinging ar in «models that cling about the ARKIGe-- have bean worn over pan- of whife silk jersey of crepe