~ / " 'one has known foulards in the past), 'Thése Little R; A GLLIOSE A. S a Hats with Fruit and | Towers will be Popular Embroidery-- Black and White the Paris Frenzy -- Buttons GlitterOn Spring Hats - Rolled BackBrims | Continue To Please -- | Buds Preferred To Full Bloom Blossoms. | HE drift southward of the fash- fonablesy soon after Christmas is what really starts things going in spring millinery: If it were not for the lure of the Southland hats In shop windows the spring millinery sea- Son would be delayed by several weeks. But once those Southland hats have been seen--and one knows somebody Is wearing them, or their Jllke--the velvets and fur of winter headgear lose all charm for the feminine heart. Spring is on the way and spring hats are here. One simply has to wear the new spring models so temptingly dis- played. Ang it is cunning of the milliners, one must admit, to sprinkle among the advanced summery models for Palm Beach, likely little straw turbans that are quite all right for the Northland in February. No woman would put on a wide brimmed white straw hat trimmed with a wreath of posies for a walk down Fifth avenue on a slushy February afternoon -- the milliners know better than that! But a small, smart turbap of darF straw th a twist of brim that spells newndss and a crispness of style that betokens an Incoming season--well that's a differ. ent matter altogether. So the spring hats appear,~a good deal earlier than they have a seasonable right to do. And with their appeari®nce winter hats are doomed. . . Many New Straw Braids Everywhere Are Small Silk Turbans Trimmed With that shoot out sidaways and down- ward from small hats; and into fluted ruffs that stand up behind hat crowns. From Villetard comes a small turban of tobacco brown milan with a flexible roll edge that fits down over the eye- brows and ears. A long-looped bow of tobacco brown molre ribbon slants from the left side of the crown almost to thé shoulder, the ribbon wired so that it slants smartly and does not droop. Another turban from Lewis has a low crown and narrow upturned brim. Molre ribbon is tied around the crown, inside the brim and a huge fan of pleated ribbon rises at the back, giving an effect of height and dignity. The silk between-season hat is going out of fashion. If one is going to buy 4 new hat in February, it might as well be a straw one--ana inform every be- holder that it is really a spring model, and not a silk affair that might pos- #ibly, in beholding eyes, be a left-over from the winter season, Straw hats are In evidence In the milliners' win- dows this spring. Evidently straw: hats are going to be much more fash- fonable than fabric hats this year, and * of course straw Is much easler to get, like linen and Ike leather, than it was during or immediately after the war. There are interesting new straws In addition to the milans and leghorns and hemps with which one is fa- millar. 'Some of the straw bralds are Interwoven with metal threads--In- deed all the spring hats glisten In one way or another. If there is no metal woven through the straw, the straw f{tself is so brilliant you can almost see your face In it. Profuse Use Of Moire Ribbon It is a great pity that most of us did not Invest id more moire ribbon, while It was unfashionable and while satin and cire ribbons were the thing; for now moire ribbon has climbed to smartness again and is, of course, the most expensive sort one can buy. The Paris hats have quantities .of moire! ribbon made into eccentric, forg bows | I oe new spring materials of Parls, and most of these novelties are ex- pensive enough to carry. off their high- sounding titles. "Les Rales Poplesta™ is what you and I have always called a poplin, with two-tone striping, each stripe outlined with a black line. "Les Gllets de Tchaout™ (pronounce that if you please!) is a vesting with splash vivid color on a black and white striped ground. . Then there is "Tapisseria," a darn- Ing stitch effect in solid squares, the colors of the squ very vivid on a neutral und, e "Ornements de Daghestan" is no more or less than ol cheviot with a handsome border pat- ern. Large orders for this material have been booked In Paris and It 'promises to be very smart and popu- lar. 'Les Sangles Damiers" is an- other cheviot in black and white pin- head check with stripes of brilliant color In high relief. Thee are forty or fifty of these fantastically named materials for spring. Among the new silks are foulards printed in wool plaid effects, printed de chine.In foulard patterns (as New Spring Fabrics MPRESSIVE names are given to, brocaded crepes in two tones, brocaded grenadine, printed (alféta, printed chiffon.and a charming new crepe run with floss lines and printed in shadowy two-tone éffect. Wash fabrics include volles, madras In soft weave and with BR variety of |and cannot be removed fr Striped and plaid patterns, and over Lace Profusely Used Lace softens the glisten and gleam of many 'of the spring hats made of celophane 6r milan,.and it lace is not | Introduced in the trimming®f a hat it is usually added in a vell arrange= ment of some kind. Lewis starts the season with a Contine tal that has made a decided hit. It ig a small, saucy little hat covered with cire satin and straw braid with encrusta- tions of Chantilly lace here and there. A strip of the Chantilly drops over the brim at one side and continues In a' long scarf-streamer to twist around the throat and across the low- er half of the face. A stunning black milan hat pictured is partially velled with black lace, the scallops of the lace overlapping the brim-edge and making a many-pointed star pattern on the crown. A vivid orange rose with some black leaves and hard, shiny black buds Is trailed along the inner curve of the brim toward the back of the hat. At the front, the brim rolls up to reveal the face. In another pictured hat a veil been added to give the lace oy This lace vell is part of the trimming om the hat want to re move such a distractingly becoming adjunct? It is not an ordinary square or oblong veil thrown over the hat, but a long strip of lace flouncing, ~--but then, who would from France and above verything else--linens. Linens in wh te, in cream, in ecru and in lovely, soft colors. - There is ramile linen which is best for hanad- embroidery work, and French finish linen, lustrous and smooth for suits and frocks. And there is hardker- chief linen, now much more exclusive than organdy' for sheer frocks; and this fine, cobwebby linen comes in €x- Qulisite shades. RING A Tew Jprimé, ft pr CH Sailorwith the Bow i In Tront | mitred oints that fall at {either side of the hat while at fe¥nt {and back the vell is quite short--an | exceedingly clever arrangement. This |is one of the mew tricorne or Con- | tinental shapes of the spring season and the supple straw is bent and twisted to give the sharp outstanding points at either side and the bulging curve above the face. A fiat garland of flowers outlines the edge of the {brim and holds the lace veil in place. | The hat is of black milan, the veil |Is taupe and the flower garland | shows mauve and pansy purple tones. Buttons On Spring Turbans Button, button--who's got the but- ton? The spring hat has! Sometimes two or three dozen buttons are dis- covered on one smdll turban. But- tons have been pushed off frocks by embroideries, fringes and - tassels-- hey had to find a place somewhere, so they chose millinery. The hat-fad of the hour in Manhattan is the small silk and straw turban. with a rolled back brim trimmed with embroidery --and buttons! A hat of the sort is pictured, but this model is all silk; no straw hag been used in its make-up. The roll brim is smartly elongated at efther side and the whole brim is embroidered in a diagonal effect with | Loss 5 -- HERE are just ordinary hard- bags--whjch you carry when you are going shopping, or traveling, or sqt forth oft some business en- | tes ifise--and there are dress-up hand- { bags! Very different affairs are these | dress<up handbags; gay and frivolous { bags are they, indicating unmistakably by their exterior the fact that they contaln no prosaic articles like rail- road tickets, timetables, business cor- | respondence, samples of fabrics or the | like; put such pleasant nothings as {powder puffs, theatre tickets and a wee bit of change. Handbags of ths dress-up, de luxe sort have been growing more and more elaborate till now they rank with Jewelry--and some of them are quite | as costly. A fifty dollar handbag would This Spring Hat silver colored floss; small cut steel | buttons emphasizing the meeting of | Between Sexson Hats Are of Silk Bit of idery, 2. with x * 18 Small and § t £ Shape and is Draped Graceful With zg Graceful Veil ry. There are three dozen of these tons around the hat. e sparkling little but Croce erase have been a joke twenty years ago; | now it Is quite an ordinary affair and | some of the bags with Jewels set in | the frame mount into the three fig- | ures. My lady's handbag and her | gorgeous feather fan are very likely to | overbalance the value cf the trinkets | she wears--unless her jewelry sparkles with real diamonds and rubies and emeralds, Nowadays, however, Jewel- | ry is measured rather by its smartness | and its beauty from the artistic stand. point, than by its intrinsic worth. The right shape, the right kind of white gold or platinum, or faint green gold, the tight design in a setting or a mounting, count for more than actual value of the jewels, Acquamarines, white topaz, garnets and qther semi- précious stones are quite as dear to Madam Mode just now as priceless emeralds amd rubles=-unless Madam Mode's devotee happens to be an avaricious somebody who values ins trinsic worth more than anything else in the world--and these really beauti- ful semi-precious stones are set in delicately carved mountings with tiny diamond chips in most exquisite effect. A certain woman who can afford any- thing she wants has had her sapphires set in a white metal frame for her handbag and wears rings with aqua- marine and pale topaz in pale green gold--because they are more becom- ing to the tint of her hands! But you may be sure that handbag is guarded carefully when it takes walks abroad. Several dress-up bags are pictured, dainty little affairs Intended only for formal occasions when the costume is elaborate. None of these bags would hold vefy much--just a handkerchief, vanity outfit and small change purse. The bag must look soft and limp as though there were almost nothing in it In one picture are shown three "finger purses," dainty that one carries at the theatre, when an escort takes care of the finan- cial part of the outing. The first bag (at the left) has a network of tiny crystal beads over a lining of mauve and silver tissue, and a tassel of crystal beads hangs from the bottom of the reticule. In the center is a handsome bag beaded in rose, mauve, pale daf- fodit yellow and peacock blue. The fringe is of crystal beads and the handles are made of silver and pea- cock ribbon with a running design of beads in all the colors used in the pattern on the bag. The third bag Is in shades of gray, blue ana rose and the handle, made of braided little triflesy The marvel is, that these tiny, jeweled or |toys keep such good time as they do eton collars too, with a pleated Jacket collar turning down below the eton and a tiny cravat of black moire rib+ bbn! Very youthful and fetching this style of neckwear, and very popular with small, Smart spring turbans, Flower Hats For The Southland The real spring hats--the models that typify a milder season on the way-----are for Southland wear. They are the flower-garianded hats, the wide brimmed shade hats, the dashing sport hats. And they are the most interesting hats, for they hint at what you and I will be wearing five months hence in midsummer. Flowers seem to be extraordinarily fashionable for these Southland hats----or rather, buds; for half blown buds are ever so mych smarter now than full biown blossoms, A Palm Beach shade hat trimmed with a whole wreath of buds, made of soft little feathers, is pictured. The closely massed buds are white, with pale green stems and some pale green leaves. The hat is of White straw braid and is so flexible that you could crush it withqut spoiling it. Sport Hats Have Bows In Front The sport sailors for Southland wear are on view too. Bome are of white milan, others of black milan. Aus) some are of heavy straw braids chaing®t beads, is an Interesting fea- ture. Bags that rank with trinkets are shown In another picture. These bags came from the jeweler who furnished the bracelets, brooch and tiny, exquis- ite watch. Time was when one did | not wear anything so practical as a | watch with ong's dress-up clothes; the | watch stayed at home on the dresser | when evening attire was donned. But {now a watch i as much a plece of | jewelry as a ring or a locket and the | {smaller lds, the more elegant it is. land require as little repairing! The | little, jewel-studded timepiece is now! | mounted on 3 black ribbon worn close to the hand on the wrist and, of | course, the tiny watch is no weight at all to earry: it. weighs scarcely more than a goed sized ring. Some women are having old fashioned cameo brooches made into wrist-ornaments and wear them Instead of watches. Any jeweler can put at each side of the cameo brooch little gold hooks to run the black wrist-ribbon through, and the ribbon is fastened with tiny gold slides as a watch ribbon is. The idea Is a very pretty ome and offers Reticules Of Silk And Beads, Just Carfare Smart Hat Tojmmed Ww, ib rindlike. ny > Buds _ A Very, Soft. and Flexible New Straw Shape ) J blocked to severe trimness. There seems little difference between these sallors and the high crowned, straight brimmed models of last year. They are worn far down on the head, quite eclipsing the eyebrows, as they were last summer. But this year's sallor must have its ribpon bow directly at the front--or it has mo style at all The sallor pictured Is of black straw with a white grosgrain ribbon band tied In a flat tailored bow across the front. And by the bye, white ribbon bands are smarter on black sailors ihan black bands are. The sport girl Wears with her stunning new black and white sailor one of those gray Sweaters that fashion particularly ap- proves. And you see she has fio open At-the-neck shirtwiist but a very trim, very new stock collar with hang- ing jabot. She is perhaps not so com fortable as she was in her open-necked blouse, but she is exceedingly chic-and up to the moment. 3 The round hat garlanded with flow ers (and buds!) was worn off a young woman boarding a train for the South- land. If you are "hard to suit" in a hat, try one of these round, marrow brimmed hats this spring. They are going to-be very fashionable and mo shape is more generally Yecoming. & good opportunity to wesr a fine cameo, The bracelets In the picture are in the newest designs and are bangles, or hoops, Intended to slide loosely ap and down the arm. One is of white gold in plerced design with diamond chips set in a sparkling line arousd the edge, and topaz colored stones fa the center. The other bracelet has garnets and pink tourmalines. The lace pin of white gold and dis- monds is the most brilliant bit of trinketry in the picture. Diamonds are almost invariably set in white gold Row---or in platinum If one can afford this very costly sort of setting. The gleam of diamonds with yellow wall Is almost extinct, Platinum or white §old 1s supposed to set off the pure white light of diamonds to better ad- vantage, and perhaps it does! Peo- ple of the older generation, however, cherith an affection for the combina- tion of diamonds and goldy-gold and deplore the passing of the golden circlet of the wedding ring, These new, pale, whitey looking wedding rings do not seem, somehow, to have the same significance. But, of a yellow gold wedding circlet would quite spoil the effect of platinum and white.gold of other rings on the hand othing has changed so much, Ag the past five years--when you cgme to think of it--as the wedding ring. It is now 'white as the bride's satin robes and is no longer plain and polished but carved all around 1p some symbolic pattern--orange . blogs sgms or valley lilies or tiny wedding bells, . To return to bags, both the little finger purses shown with the are of gold, but the gold is much paler than the yellow meta] that used to go into such bags. The mesh bag has a strap, bracelet handle of mesh In fine links. The other bag is carved exquisitely In a mistletoe design and has a mesh strap-handle. This is not a reticule but a flat case for vanity belongings. A mirror is set inside the lid and there Is just room for a fiat powder puff, tiny lipstick and rouge Big Enough To Hold Theatre Ticket And pad. ' ; The ostrich feather bags mustinot be forgotten in a chat about retioules for formal! occasions. Some of these bags combine beads and ostrich, othery are sof: puff-balls of ostrich alone.