LO HAST ZL022 0 SALT AY SLC All Made of 'Moire Ribbon and Metal Braid is "This Frock | Yards of Cording On Taf-| - fetaDresses-- Georgette - and Crepe Chiffon Satisfy Desire for Graceful Fab- rics --1880 Frocks With Velvet Ribbon for Trim- ming-- Have aLong Waist! Or Achieve One If You'd Be Fashionable. T will be a woman very hard to please who will not be satisfied with one of the spring frock styles pictured today. For most of the modes that Paris 1s launching are il- lustrated. Some of these modes are tentative--as for instance the short- sleeved, full skirted models with fitted bodices--but all of the styles are au- thoritative. All are good. And all will be worn this coming season. Some are less conservative than oth- ers, to be sure. You could wear the orange taffeta with dart-fitted bodice In a New York restaurant and though it would attract some attention on ac- eount of its bright color and its con- Spicuously new style it would not cre- Ate any particular sensation. Half the women would eye it appraisingly and think, "I wonder If I could wear that style." The other half, with a pass- ing glance, would decide: "Awftully cunning style--but not for me." The four frocks illustrated two-and-two in 'other pictures, however, could be worn anywhere and be recelved enthusias- tically. They are frocks of the con- servative type, yet they are all new frocks and express the new style fea- tures of the season. So you can pick crepe de chine frock. picture full-tunic models and satin are presented. high. well in a sh even on her the effect is quaint--or cunning--rather than graceful. most anybody can achieve a low waist- line, even if nature has not been kind in that respect. - All that is necessary is. to have the skirtband very loose and also the inside belt of the bodice. Pleasin§ 'rocks of Soft Tabric -- Brown Georgette Bronze Gold Lace in One -- Embroidered Cre de Chine in the of 'taffeta |i The Low Waistline For Spring ds a Other In the other | Georgette which shows in a flat vestee n the open bodice front. The other frock in this picture is simplicity it- self, so far as lines go. quite full but the material is so soft The skirt is All these frocks have loose bodices that it falls in straight lines; and the Only a very young girl looks| Al- what count. Ready-made effective; broidery you will note what an elab- orate effect has been achieved with very little work. The edge of the full tunic is run with rows and rows of cords and cords are used In the darts of the bodice. giving flat youthful lines to the figure, | weight of the embroidery makes the and the waistline is dropped as low as|lines all the straighter. possible--which can only be done with a loose bodice effect. It is a black crepe de chine model The average |embroldered with jet beads and white woman wears her waistline much too | beads and the sash is lined with white | crepe de chine. The set-in sleeve, low ort-waisted costume and | Waistline and irregular skirt edge are jal new features. The taffeta and satin models plc- tured together haye the new full tunic over a narrow underskirt. also though. the taffeta frock pretends to have a dart-fitted bodice. blue frock with embroidery in shades When the skirt belt is attached t0],¢ Jighter blue and red--very gay and this loose inside belt of the bodice, the weight of the skirt pulls the loose bodice down and gives a longer walst- ed effect. The corset has really very little to do with it; the clever cut of the bodice and the looseness of the belts are They have the dropped waistline, even It is a dark and if you study the em- Cording for taffeta, you'know, re Quaint Yellow Old: Fasioned Cordinés and Cunning DPodice Quaint Styles Revived A new old-fashioned model is the slashed and braid-trimmed frock. The long waisted effect Is accentuated, the sash being dropped quite to the hips. Braided slashes run up in the bodice to continue the braided lines of the skirt, trimming; and the overlapping, fringe-bordered side panels of the skirt are a very good style for spring. This frock has the Irregular skirt edge, also. It is made of gray Georgette with blue braiding and fringe. -- + 50 Le New Frocks with the Ri60L Lines forSpring-- One Model of Embroidered DITO TOT" FV COELZ EDI Taffeta, the Other of Beaded Satin | sidered in devising graceful costumes | for the larger woman. | Most women of ample {ments can dress a good deal measure- better \ nowadays by buying frocks, suits and at the side, fastens at the back. To this childish bodice the full skirt Is gathered--no belt, no sash, no panels --even no sleeves. But what a cap- tivating little frock it is! The strips of moire ribbon are joined under chenille braid; black moire ribbon, saffron colored chenille, and clusters of primroses at the waistline and on the skirt, Cording runs riot you pescelve In an orange taffeta frock which has an odd rectangular effect of bodice, contrived with piped sections under the arm In o evening gowns ready-made than by { having costumes made for them---un- | less they can afford to patronize the | very best tailors or dressmakers. Such experts are artists in their lines, but fine mediocre tailor and the dressmak- er-by-the-day concentrate usually on and fit and lines are two very, very different things! And there are shops which cater entirely to the informal dinners, res- taurant and theatre wear, or very for- mal late afternoon affairs like recep- tions or teas when one is hostess or assisting to receive. Both is a master- plece in its way. Each Is pleasing and graceful in line, and conveys no un- pleasant suggestion of clumsy weight in its wearer; yet all the new style features are expressed--the ' short sleeve, the turned-under Oriental skirt, the' sash, the gathered tunic, horizontal skirt trimming and spark- ling embroidery--styles thaf the stout woman once thought she could never affect. The secret is: Simple lines, excel- lent fabrics, well thought-out color harmonies. And right proportions! Not one of these dresses has what the second-rate dressmaker terms "a per- fect fit"--which usually means a bod- ag Gray Georfette T'riock with the Low Waistline. Tod small a hat topping a fat face and fat. showiders can make its wearer grotesque; too big a hat--if the large woman is not tall and has a very short neck--can be even more grotesque. Hat lines are quite as important as. lines of frock or tailleur and the larger woman should always try on her hats standing before a full length mirror never sitting down at_a table-mirror. It is the silhouette of the whole figure she must study--the graceful sweep of line; not merely the becomingness of a feather or a tralling flower in con- nection with her face. Two frocks for larger women fl- lustrated are an afternoon frock of formal type, and a handsome semi- evening gown suitable for formal af. fairs. et A eer BUTTERFLIES ON BABY BELONGINGS ABY pillows for the perambulator B have butterflies by way of orna- ment now, and there are carriage coverlets to match, with buterflies made of filet, or embroidered on the coverlet. Ready for first spring days are immaculate coverlets and pillow slips of spic-span whité linen with in- set butterflies of filet, the edges of coverlet and pillowslip scalloped: and embroidered by hand. Butterflies also adorn cushions for the bedroom rest-couch. A pretty set is of pale tan linen with a diamond shaped motif of pink linen hem- stitched to the center and two cre~ tonne butterflies in gay colors appli= qued to the cover, half on and half off the pink center section. The bute terfiles are outiined in black. dresses are usually too short-waisted for average wearers, and ready-made blouses always are, unless one selects a model on straight tunic lines and puts the belt wherever it looks best. Soft Fabrics Preferrcd Georgette, crepe chiffon, crepe de chine and canton crepe are to have a special vogue this season because Fashion Insists upon soft, graceful lines, even when flaring skirts are be- ing introduced. The new t&ffetas are mostly chiffon' taffetas, and satins are of the supple kind---satin meteor be- ing a favorite. Later, printed Georgettes are going to have a great vogue, one prophesies -- for warm | weather frocks. The Georgette frock In one of the] two-and-two pictures is in brown tones. Tobacco brown Georgette is embroidered with bronze beads and a little gold lace is used at the girdle, a sash of brown ribbon running under the lace. The loops of the sashbow at one side are velled with gold lace. And, of course, the sashbow is tied at the side! Front and back sash- bows have been abandoned by fashion and the side arrangement is now fav- ored. The brown Georgette frock is Frocks Made Entirely Of Ribbon Black moire ribbon in strips and strips, makes the piquant little frock for a young and very slender made- mboiselle--scarcely anybody else would dare affect the costume. But for a debutante this is an adorable frock. is it not? It has no sleeves at all and the flat bodice, fitted with darts both bodice and sleeve. All the plp- ing is done with black velvet and the front section of the bodice Is fitted neatly at the walstline with closely set pintucks. The orange taffeta frock with its black piping is accompanied by a black hat with a stunning ostrich feather In orange, and by black stock- ings and slippers. ren. Goo' Lore Far doe LAPT Ht raiment of the slender woman who thinks she can risk any mode that comes along. 5 The larger woman should first of all ¢onsider her particular largeness carefully. When once a figure de- parts from the normal or classic measurements, it takes on all kinds of stoutness. The large woman may have a heavy torso and slender, taper- ing limbs--which means that she ean this spring! The other frock in this picture ' is of maroon satin with straight lines of bead embroidery in maroon and garnet, Here is the dropped waistline again, and the full tunic over a marrow underskirt, and the tunic is slashed all the way up the center front to show the under- skirt, and choose from today's page. for all these costumes are going to be worn. Comes The Full Skirt Everybody has been on the qui vive About skirts, . Long weeks ago the whisper went out that they were to be fuller--much fuller. But fashion always has something up her sleeve where new styles are concerned, and you see, though skirts are undoubted- ly full, the fullness is In a short tunic 'and the nirrow, clinging skirt is re- tained underneath. This, if you want _ Your skirt both fuller and longer, The "fullness is accorded to you in the tunic and the length is supplied by a skirt that silhouettes the ankles. If you want to wear a full skirt without any narrow skirt underneath, you must havé the full skirt very short. Don't attempt to wear a skirt both long and full or you will be hopelessly wrong in your spring silhouette! Bince most women will be interested chiefly In the conservative frock styles presented, let us take them up first. And if you hanker after the gay little frocks with short full skirts and no sleeves at all, you can skip the more staid models and get on to the end. One of the two-and-two pictures shows O' one rejoices more than the tainly promise to be kind to ample larger woman--as she' is DOW | figures. As a matter of fact, all fash- agreeably designated--that spring | jons are now modified and adapted so fashions promise long lines, 10W | that stout pebple may wear them belts and graceful skirts. She 100ks a) without looking grotesque. Experts bit askance at the cute little box jack- and artists have been put on the job ets over slim-as-a-match skirts; but and they devote their entire time to then one does not have to wear the|the larger woman's problems ih dress. box jacket even in a season of ab-| With an appraising eye they scan each breviated jackeéts--there are always|Dew mode launched by Paris. Is it ----eould it be adapted to ample meas- other styles, urements? Can it--so to speak--be lice strained across the back, sheath- like at the waistline and molded over a Georgette frock ang an embroidered g-- dropped over a lining of bisque Fashions in genera! this seasqn cer- UNNING little short Kets, loose as manties and trimmed strappings and bindings of black braid. FASHION NOTES FOR SPRING self tone or black, and others have veils for complete smartness. Hats are not elaborate but veils grow more and expressed in heroic proportions? Of course, all striking styles must be modified for the large wearer. Modification is what the expert In larger woman's fashions holds always In mind, and the larger woman's clothes must therefore be more or less achieve a . becoming low-walstline without. difficulty--or she may carry most of her weight in hips and legs with a chunky, high-waisted figure above the belt line. She may have most of her ciurves at the back or she may have quite a nice flat back with the full development of bust and a corset too tight and too high in the bust. The fit of the pictured costumes may be defined as "easy". Nowhere is there sign of fabrics pulled relent- lessly into place; lines everywhere are graceful and pleasing. The afternoon frock is of crepe de chine and Georgette, two of the softest, most with embroidery, braid and tas-| Rows of tiny metal buttons are added [more gay and ornamental. To be truly sels, Some have raglan sleeves; sbine have Kimone sleeves; some have sometimes to the braided models in Bay military effect. smart you must wear with your small spring turban two vells; a face veil conventional and conservative in type. All extreme modes have to be avoid- ed, all vivid colors, all rakish effects. diaphragm that make youthful blouse styles impossible. Usually she has a short, plump throat and the padding beautiful fabrics. The frock is in brown shades; brown fabrics and the beading in tans, copper and brown. f#-in sleeves, And the edge of the Jacket may be straight, curved or cut in points. But almost invariably the short jacket reveals a graceful sash _ that falls down one side of the skirt front. Navy blue as usual is the spring tailored suit color. About nine women out of ten want navy blue suits when spring comes around and nothing can dislodge the shade from favor. Some drawn smoothly over your visage ahd a bordered vell floating over your chapeaux. Rufly blouses for spring: soft, pretty affairs of batiste and handker- chief lawn with gathered or pleated ruffles edging the collar and making graceful jabots down the front. Most of these blouses are white or cream, the flesh pink blouse is fading from The favored material for suits is a new twill cord--Iike a fine gabardine. Dressy suits--and sport suits too--will be of silk Canton crepe which Is going to, be the rage this season. Suits for warmer days promise to be of linen and these linen sults have the short, lopse box coats--which you know are not so hard to manufacture in she home sewing room! The evening gown Is of embroidered chiffon, with gray silk embroidery on black. The skirt drapery is especially graceful, bringing the embroidered border in oblique effect rather than straight across, and the straight, nar- row vestee of all-black, dividing the embroidered sections of the bodice is a becoming style for a large figure. The question of hats is a very Im- of flesh over her shoulders makes her neck look really shorter than It is. And usually she has a surprisingly pretty foot and ankle for her size. There is not much superfluous flesh on the scalp or temples yet the stout woman's head appears to be larger than the thin woman's head because of the rounded contours of cheek and chin and the heavier column of the But the conventional and conservative clothes make up in and charm; and a well dressed larger woman is usually the best dressed woman in her set. Good lines, graceful fabries, har- monious colors and. weil thought-out accessories of dress lend distinetion to her costumes and because she--or her dressmaker--puts extra consideration into the planning-----fewer mistakes in 5 of the blue suits are embroidered In Simple spring turbans depend on fashion's horizon. style and color are made than in the neck. All these things have to be con- portant question for the large woman.