erm atc ee Jneven Hems for Spring How the Increased Length Is Being a Camouflaged by Ingenious Designers with Irregular Hems That Make Skirts- Both Long z and Short. at the ay Same Time. C4 0) $ . Gray Silk Serge Adorns Itself with Bands of Orange White. \ # \ ec00000000 ORT 0 & yo [IBN : QrCA? i | Y By... Mme. Frances J The Famous Creator of Fashions HEN new fashions are presented the most vital question on tlie lips '¥ of every wonian is, "What is the correct length for the skirt?" For so many seasons we have rejoiced in the very ab- breviated modes that there is a tendency among certain creators to lengthen the skirt. But a great difficulty then arises, for the eyes have become accustgmed to short skirts, and when lohger skirts are shown women naturally feel a certain re- pugnance to them. They appear dowdy. These forerunners of a new mode are at first greeted with scorn, for women nat- urally' forget that a few moons ago the sbort skirt was considered fit only for the woman who delighted in notoriety. Yet eventually it was accepted by the pest dressed women in America. Now when the longer skirt was presented a sea- son ago it met with such rebuffs that the short skirt still triumphed: But in many of the new modes for spring longer ekirts should be worn, otherwise the beauty of the gown will be greatly diminished. How- ever, a different method is being adopted to achieve the transition from the very short to the more graceful long skirt. In- stead of adding on two or three inches to the hem and insisting that the longer skirt show the correct length all around, the new frofks are designed with irregu- Jar-hems. Thus devotees of the long as well as the short skirt are appeased. . . The Descending Hem There sre many fascinating ways to bridge the inches between the modes of yesterday and tomorrow. I have evolved quite a variety which I presented at my recent opening, and I am sure you will with me tha# this gradual, instead of abrupt, transition will attain the de- gired end far more quickly than by any arb insistence on the addition of a spec number of inches to the hem. As J know you are all interested in fashion changes, especially at this time when you are planning your spring ward- Dark Blue Silk Serge Bound in Red-Violet Shows an Uneven Hem That Is Very Distracting. robes, I have illustrated sev- eral types of the new irregu- lar hem dress on this page. One of the most effective ways is pictured in the dress of dark blue silk serge. The skirt shows generous fullness on the sides, which are cut somewhat shorter than the back and front. The straight bodice favors the low waist- line, for this is a mode much beloved by distinctively dressed women. It is slashed down the front,which permits the use of violet blue binds. These also outline the high standing collar, which is open in the front. Binds of the same material mark the junction of the sleeve and the bodice as well as out- line the bell-shaped cuffs. Another most interesting decoration appears on the dress. This is colorful em- broidery wrought in coral and blue violet wool. Tassels of braid in the same bright colors dangle from the sleeves and the ends of the belt. More color is revealed in the heavy heads of the tassels, where strands of green apd yellow are interest- in interwoven. The small hat that accompanies this creation is developed in green satin with a facing of gray satin on the upturned brim: Although very simple in line, it is ex- tremely smart when worn at the correct angle. This, of course, is most essential and anfortunately ig often ignored even by women who are recognized as well. dressed. To assure yourself that your hat is correctly placed on your head you should study its relation to the lines of your face and head; for the matter of a tilt too far forward or to one side makes a tremendous difference to your appear- ance. J . Another way of lengthening the skirt is by the use of panels that extend beyond the hem of the underskirt. This is very prettily revealed in the dress of black crepe meteor. As both sides of this silk /000000000 00 Panels of Black Crepe Meteor, Alternating Dull and Shiny Are Made Into One Skirt by the Help of | Black Hemstitching. ate exceptionally lovely I have used them to good advantage in this model. What you call the wrong side of the silk is used for the waist because I prefer its dull finish. Very plain in design, the bodice is adorned with several short rows of hem- stitching. The skirt is made of panels of" the meteor disposed so that the dull and shiny sides alternate. The longer panels are fashioned with the glossy side outwards, while those between are developed in the dull finished side. They are hemstitched together and through this tracery one may catch a glimpse of the white meteor underdress. Should you desire to have a less dashing looking frock you could of course substitute black underneath. . A girdle of dull cloth of gold defines "the junction of blouse and skirt, while the black satin hat rejoices in clusters of white roses on its sides. » An Unusual Skirt Another version of the irregular hem is presented in the dress of gray silk serge. A simple little frock, it is fashioned with a novel skirt. This is cut away in the front to reveal the short underskirt. But what is taken off in the front is added to the sides, which extend beyond its hem for several inches. The skirt is cut quite straight, with just a trifle of fullness about the waistline. About its lower edges fs an attractive ' trimming. This is made of white cotton material with a raised design in orange- colored cotton. Another band is set a few inches above and introduces some gay col- or on the frock, » The bodice of the serge at first glance suggests a trim eton jacket. However, the gdy trimming is responsible for this effect as it is used quite lavishly 'on the waist. Another vivid touch js seen in the long narrow opening which extends a few inches below the waistline, for it is hem- stitched in orange thread. The hat that I originated to accompany this creation is made of black straw and is set snugly on the coiffure. At one side Paradise is attached and sweeps around the face in the approved mode of the mo- ment. Should you desire to copy this model vou could, of course, fashion it from any other rhaterial that you wished to use. The trimming, «too, could be varied, but I would suggest that you use a wool trim- ming if you make your frock of silk, asone reason why my creations are so distinc- tive is that I vary the fabrics and their trimmings. When, for instance, 1 use a silk serge like the dress just described, I affect' a cotton trimming. This season there are many fascifating novelties, while if you are handy with your needle and have some feeling for color I am sure that you may evolve most interesting dec- orations. Perhaps you know how to paint. In that case you might take pieces of silk or cotton and color them with novel motifs on which oriental figres or conventional- ized flowers Would look excellent. Then these could Be applied to your dress in any . manner that you care ta use them. Bright ao _-- ---- 10 West Fifty-Sixth Street. "A Fabric of Another Generation--Black Ninon Is Revived for This Frock. It Is Embroidered in Red and Gold Beads and Girdled by a Gold Belt. wool threads might be used for appliquing them or tiny beads. The dress that completes the group is exceedingly beautiful and shows how clev- erly different types of panels may be com. bined. It is evolved from black minoa over an underslip of black meteor. On each side. of the skirt is a straightly cut panel of the ninon embroidered in red beads and gold leaves. How Ninon Is Used Their brilliancy, however, is partialiy concealed by the soft panels of the ninon that are set on the back and front of the dress. Falling in cascade-like style at the sides, they finish in long narrow point. and are curved out in the back-and fron: so that the ends of the beaded panels may | readily be seen. The wide sleeves show rich beading and beautifully sewn leaves of gold. A nove! todch is revealed in the back of the gown, which is open from the neck to the waistline. A black tulle hat with flyaway wings of tulle accentuates the dainty ap- peal of this gown which so cleverly heralds the coming of the longer skirt. The Fashion Forecast Composé suils with plaid skirt, pleated in front, back or sides, and plain coat bound with the plaid soon will be most fashionable.