Predicts the Early Return of the Semi-dressy / VEMBER 13, 1916. py 6981 By Maude HEIL The semi-dressy tallleur has come In anticipation of an Imperative neéd and it is the one model regarding whose importance the couturiers are unanimous. It is also the resurt of circumstances over 'which fashion has no control, but which has greatly influenced the world of dress-- the war. So many of the coat and suit makers of Paris are serving in the trenches that the semi-dressy tail- leur looms upon the horizon as the costume destined to create a real furore during the late Fall anc Win- ter. ' similiar fashionable fabrics are used in their development and the colors most seen are brown, taupe, navy, plum, Burgundy, maroon, cinnamon, Santiago brown, egg blue, currant and Russian green. These new frocks are delightfully worked out with touches of embroidery. beading and braid, while buttons are used in generous quantities, Furs, of course, play an important part in the lecor- ation of costumes for all occasions. Hudson seal, moleskin, kolinsky, tailless ermine, Australian oppossum and dyed fox lend themselves to the favorite schemes of decoration, all of which center about the neck, sleeves or lower edges of skirts. Especially successful is a semi- tailleur of green and Bordeaux check trimmed with collar and cuffs of broadcloth. The full skir: has two bands of gray fur abou' tha bot- There are many frocks of marked simplicity, although they are of the highest character, Velours, broad- cloth, gabardine, duvetyn, serge and " ¥ COST OF PRESENT WAR alone has spent about ten billions. {England and Germany are involved COMPARED ANIVH OTHERS {rox much more. Russia has spent Wel val vw ow money like water, but may be com- w iudes Third Year EX= ing out better than its enemies and pen Great Allies, Serbia and Montenegro are se Will Be as a" ruined." Turkey is nearly ruined. All From Napoleon I. The prgblems of war are enorm Toledo Blade. jous. But to the financiers of the { inext few generations they may seem . pa French economist has been com-1, "ining compared with the pro- paring the costs of the great Euro-y ini. of reconstruction. pean conflict with the costs of other| -- ew . wars. He finds that if this conflict | ny completes the third year it will have | WINDOW BOXES been as expensive as all the wars! from Napoleon I. to August, 1914. | Winter Bloomers for Dwellers in the The twenty years of the Napoleon: | Citles : fe cost about fifteen billions of dol- If people living in eities knew how lars. Eleven or twelve billions were easily they might have flowers bloom- spent on the Crimean war. The Am- ing all winter I think every home erican civil war cost seven and a half | would be cheered by these loveliest billions. About a half billion was lof decorations. The requisite arti- consumed 'in the Prussian-Austrian cles are one or more boxes, a sprayer, war of 1866. France spent $2,499,- some good soll and the plants. 000,000 in its affair with Germany The box should be about 8 inches in 1870. In this sum. are included deep by 10 wide and of any required the losses to the state, the communes | length. The material may be pot- and municipalities, the injuries to|tery, which is handsome, but some individuals and the charges involved | what expensive, or iron with false in caring for the German soldiers up| bottom for dralnage. Wooden boxes to the final evacuation. jare as good as any if painted inside For three years of the present war|and out with two coats of some na- the economist estimates a cost in ex- | tural color. Place in the bottom of cess of one hundred billions. France'the box an inch or two of coarse on Resulted An Inactive Liver tant 'rule of A X becomes tor- pid the flow of bile into the intes- and the bowels be- can condition by . Chase's Kidney-Liver Pills. '18 no treatment obtainable '80 promptly awakens the ad: |, y of the liver and bowels and r derangements of the . Herbert Dolierty, of Beaver , Albert Co., N.B., writes: can truthfully say that Dr. Chase's 3 er Pills are a great medi cine for constipation. I have suffer- from constipation ever since I can remember, but got to using Dr. ] Li Hi Hi | a 8333 tom and this trimming is also used to finish the edge of the collar. The sides of the bodice extend over the waistline to the skirt, simulating a hip-yoke, The front and back panels of the dress have enough of- 'heir lines preserved to cmphasize the straight, slender effect, however. Striped velvet and the corded vel- veteens are employed in the devel- opment of superbly atiractiva . day frocks. Tucks, not usaa.ly assoei- ated with velvet materials, trim the skirt of one design. The fullucss at the waistline is gathered under a belt of broadcloth to correspond with a very large collar having points at either side. The shoulder line is dropped to meet long eclose-fitting sleeves - which may or may not be {rimmed with buttons. At the front the waist is quite plain, except for a vest of flesh colored chiffon cloth. mn stones, broken pottery, etc., to facili- tate drainage. ) A tin-pan to set the box in will keep the brackets neat. It can be secured from a tinsmith. The box can be mounted on brac- kets or on a portable stand; the lat- ter is preferable because it permits the box to be moved easily from room to room for spraying, and also to be turned with its best side out- ward. The chief difficulty with house plants is lack of moisture. However, if the plants are well soaked once a week by placing the boxes on their sides in a bathtub of warm water for ten minutes the roots will have sufficient moisture, and by spraying k the foliage well with water every other day and occasionally with kero- sene emulsion the plants will be free from insects. Obtain a good topsoil from a flor- Ist. Make four-inch pots frem strong | hrown paper and put a plavt 'n each pot, filling the pot with soil. Put two inches of 'soil in the bottom bf the window box over thé broken vdt- tery, place the potted plants on this bed of carth and pack in the space between the pots with soil and moss. This helps to retain the mois- ture and keeps the soil damp. Satisfactory plants for winter I ing are cyclamens, geraniums, lotropes, flowering maples, callas, primula malacoides, h i i fi A 6092! Combinations of materials are never more: effective than in the semi-dressy tailleur. In these models the coutourjers have ample oppor- tunity to mingle velvets und satins, | serges and Silk and other fabrics of | widely contrasting mature in most effective fashion, Black has become mas fashionable for day as well as evening wear and black cotton velvet figures in a stunning costume having the long shirred waist and slsaves of castor broadcloth. The skirt has a pointed tunic which is bordered with | The collar of | a deep band of fur. fur is so high that it eniirely sub- merges the ears and chin. Flatness is prevalent in many de- signs and there are many attractive 692% One design of this type is in cinna- mon brown, the belt and larg> collar being of silk in a lighter shade of the same color. Trimmingpiecaes of broadcloth are added to the helt at the sides and the full sleeves are gathered into cuffs which have turn- overs of silk, Tailoring scores heavily for modish elegance in a coat of dark brown Bol- ivia cloth trimmed with czeam color- ed velvet. The coat buttons naither to the right nor to the le't, but fol- lows a straight line at the front. The buttons are of broadcloth tg match the collar, cuffs and belt. A cloak of this kind is not only deecl- dedly chic, butt extremely comfor- broadcloth frocks consisting princi- pally of long lines of box dlaits with sub-normal belts of broadeicth trim-| med with beading HER FALL SUIT. EL ] Longer Coats and Longer Skirts Are a New Mark. se e--------------y This youthful suit is put up in plum gaberdine, a skirt cut walking lepgth and a long coat on which seams are {ings of all kinds are packed with table when,the cold days of wintar come, The favor shown soft faced wool- lens is recognized in the velvets fin- or embroidery. | ish that appears on many of the Ser- ; after living in Saxony for 54 years. Lockwood went so Germany at 20 years of age as the agent for Eng- lish power looms, and for over half a century has lived in the town of Meerane, near Leipzig. He was al- lowed to leave Germany on repre- sentations of the American consul that he was starving. "When 1 left a month ago," Mr. Lockwood told the London Daily News, "the Socialists were having meetings every day, and were pass- ing resolutions favoring peace with- out annexation and every belligerent to setttle its own account, The Ger- mans would be glad to get out of it now at that price. The infirmaries, hospitals, schools and 'public build- wounded soldiers everywhere, and it is the wounded who give the show away. There have been celebrations for supposed victories right up to the middle of this summer, but toristie ges used for coatidresses, A pleas-| ing model for semihary wear is in| panel and collar being of satin hro- | cade. Large pockets of odd designs trimmed: with buttons of self-mater- ial ornament either side of :he skirt, | Costume No, 6981, Sizes, 34 to 42 There is a deep square shoulder yoke | Nos b Price. 20 . and it is unnecessary to suggestion | 'PChes bust. - Price, 20 cents. that hereon may be worked any| (Costume No, 6917, Sizes, 24 to 42 fancied design in embroidery or| inches bust. Price, 25 cents. beading. The creators of smart modes have presented a most com-| Waist No. 6954. Sizes, 34 10 12 in- prehensive assemblage of these cnat- | ches bust. Price, 20 cents. dresses for they are appropriate for | varied events of the day { ches waist. Price, 15 cents In spite of the emphasis placed] Coat No. 6892. Sizes, 34 to #4 upon the velvety Bolivia clots and | Inches bust. Price, 25 cents velours, there are sturdy tweeds,| Costume No. 6925. Sizes, 24 to 44 homespuns and mixtures in piain | inches bust. Price, 25 cents, and plaid effects that may be eni-| Costume No. 6878, Sizes, 34 to 42 ployed to excellent advantage in the | inches bust. Price, 15 cents. development of Winter suits and Pictorial Review patterns on sale coats. by local agents, Guide to Patterns. The fashions shown on this page are Pictorial Review Designs. Numn- bers and sizes are as follows: wounded soldiers have opened the| Sweet Clover as a Soil Renovator. people's eyes these last few months." While sweet clover can be grown Mr. Lockwood states that the only | as a substitute for red clover and food that can be obtained without [generally furnishes more feed to the difficulty are potatoes at about 1d. a |acre, the most valuable use of this Ib. and rye-bread at 4d. a 1b. loaf. | legume is for green manuring. Be- "You talk here of a meatless day |cause of its rank growth it is high once a week. In Germany you do not{in favor as a green manure. The see meat for month in and month out, | roots aré large and aerate the soil in All you can get is horse met at 3s a |a greater degree than either alfalfa Ib., and that you can oly buy at the or clover. Those who have grown rate of %Ib, a week per person. corn after both sweet clover and al- What poor people have had for their | falfa, claim that the former contri- dinners for months together are po- | butes more to the fertility than does tatoes for months, with vinegar. No | the alfalfa. It is claimed that sweet wonder the people are sick of the|clover seeded with oats makes a war." satisfactory growth after the oats te Sopris pio are harvested and will produce the What Germany Has Taken From following year equivalent to 20. tons Belgium. of barnyard manure. It is especially In the 'Smoller's Fahrbuch fur valuable for restoring the fertility of Gesetzgebung Varvaltung and Volks- | billsides.--F. W. Stemple, Ohio wirtschaft™ of 1916, Professor Karl| State University. Balloch computes the quantity of wae toma "a ns sememes | AT ONCE! STOPS ~~ tories. "Pupe's Diapepain® Makes Sick, Sour, ho tg me Do some foods you eat hit back--- tatoes, 673 million kilos of bread, 56 million kilos of butter, the whole be- ing equivalent to 44 per cent. of the riche." t Ain't that a lovely compli. she exclaimed eestatically, and 1 -- a ------ ---- sonition so the misery won't come back. ._ Exeeels Strength of Iron. "The melting point of You feel different as soon as ductile tung: is Higher than that of Say other | "Pape's Diapepsin comes in contact x metal and its tensile strength with the stomach---distress just van- nickel, ishes--your stomach gots sweet, no * gases. no belching. no eruetations of food, your head clears Go now, make the hest : Skirt No. 6585. Sizes, 22 to 34 In-