Sma re ---- ' A k) oie | Ba wach COLLAR & CUFFS 6935 By Maude Hall The blouse counters are vertiable catch-dollars for the woman who shops. She starts out firmly deter mined to pass them by, but at the first glimpse of their offerings, pru- dence flles with the wind and her colleetion of separate waists is un- cdeagsed by one, if not more It is true, perhaps, that some of the new designs bear a striking fam- fly resemblance to blouses of other days, but this is offset by originality achieved im various ways. There is a dominant note of elegance sounded in all waists, even when of simplest design, The extensive use of satin is one of the contributing causes, for the very smartest models are devel- oped in this material. Crepe Geor- gette, chiffon cloth and voile follow quickly in'popular favor, being used for most fascinnting separate waists. Mention of super-chie materials must include taffeta, which is charming in the new stripes, checks and plaids. The modes of trimming. are legion and there was never a season when greater attention was paid to collars and sleeves. The shoulder like shows no radical change, most of the fashionable, blouses having the back extending over to the front in yoke effect, This gives an-apportunity to gather or plait the front of the waist at the top and @lso affords an excuse for using hemstitching, vein- ing, insertiong and exquisite entre deux effects. The strictly tailored blouse confines itself to hemstitch- ing, tucks and dainty pearl buttons, but the dressy waists bear a lovely burden of jabots, revers, embroidery, beading, etc. The relations between blouses and milleurs ix very intimate, - Light, WOULD FIGHT T0 THE EXD A MOTHER ISSUES A PLEA TO OTHER MOTHERS To Continue to Help in Carrying on the War Till Germany Is Van- quished and Right Is Restored. Kingston, Dec. 18.-- (To the Edi- tor) © Kindly give me space in your paper, for I felt it-is only right that we mothers ought to have a say in this plotted affair that the Germans call peace. Iam a mother, a British- er, who has given all she haa to help in this terrible war, like many more | HATS 7073 waists embroidered or trimmed in darker color lined wise liked for wear with suits in the color | of the trimming, and among the im ported models there are some charm ing things of thig sort. A notewory thy waist of erepe Georgette design- ed to wear with a taupe tailleur is in an exquisite shade of gray em- broidered in taupe "with the principal designs of the embroid ery describing large circles. Small clusters of beads scattered between the circles add anether decorative note to tlie blouse, /The revers and vest are of gray charmeuse satin and a deep collar of the same material, cut in one with the vest, is finished | with a corded edge. Everything that is beautiful, strik- fug and unusual is included in the décoration of blouses this season and it is a pretty conceit to have the blouse and suit match in color, Check taffetta trimmed with large double collars and turn-back cuffs of white broadcloth are indeséribably smart, Something more practical than broadcloth, however, is wash satin, which retains its luster despite frequent ablutions. Lovely deep col- lars of this material are stitched, embroidered and braided in white and colors. Twin collars of white wash satin are used to trim a very pretty plaid silk shirt waist which fastens in double-breasted effect and is shirred to g deep shouldér yoke of self-material, Satin also, forms the cuffs and fancy crochet buttons add to the effectiveness of the decpr- ation, The big, soft jabots into which large collars almost merge shown on blouses of chiffon cloth are unusu- ally dressy. It is hard not to yield A PA AA A mothers who have sacrificed their husbands and their sons, and I can go farther and say some mothers have even sacrificed their own dear girls to go out on the battlefield to help and comfort the dying and the wounded. Some have fallen and gone to meet their Creator and re- ceive their reward. Some are wound- ed and helpless, while a few may re- turn to our homes. Let me ask the mothers of the British Empire, Are we going to sit- down at our ease while our boys are being butchered and slaughtered? Can we really feel that this peace the German armies or traitors offer to our Allies is really ER -- other- ) ave | rope silk, | CAPE GB93 to the temptation to embroider them, yet there is nofhing prettier than a simple hemstitched hem. If there are decided points to the jabot and corners to the collar these may be finished with silk tassels. Some of the best looking waists show the peplum. There are numer- ous smart 'little designs in chiffon, Georgette crepe, crepe de chine and satin that are made for wedr out- side suit skirts, though they can be tucked under the skirt tops if one prefer them that way. So many new variations are being rung in upon the peplum theme that models ex- plojting it do take on an air of nov- elty. ~Blouse sets are immensely and de- servedly popular. They consist of hats and collars, though sometimes PPS preparations to crush our brave and noble boys, to murder the innocent women and children and the poor, helpless aged people. Mothers of Kingston and of our Empire, let us try to be brave. We have been in the past; let us go on and ¥f it's possible to make yet great- er sacrifices for right and liberty of Jour Empire. Can we not try to do something to help our country to stand as firm as a rock until victory is won; for I feel as sure as the Ger- man armies started this war theyd will prepare for a greater. If we are willing to rest content let us have peace at all cost. 1 say, reader, have genuine? I say, No, it is dot; they only want time to make greater you followed up the daily papers? If 80, just look back and see for your- a ------ i PR 4 & bag or necks of pront to lines, by { ate collars conform themselves this idea. In -most instances waists aid the prettiest shallow oval THE DAILY BRITISH WHIG, THURSDAY, DECEMBER 21, 1916. en ee muff is added. Since the, are square far the majerity of separ- to the cuff is included with the collar and these mount up terribly if ready made, Cape collars of matinee and on other bought fur or fur cloth are stylish to wear with separate blouses, being worn at the occasions a. Crepe georgette and broadcloth have proved the most popular fabrics for neckwear thus far this season. Indications are that roll collars of organdy will make an appearance after the holidays and gradually grow stronger in favor. Wee-em- broidered neckwear may prove the dark horse of the southern resort n, some of the handsome new 'effects recently introduced helping to prolong its popularity, where a dressy blouse suffices for semi-formal wear, Occasionally the straight shoulder to-shoulder collar and its stand away rising' model are shown, but these are not always wearable. Then, too, these styles are difficult of adjust- ment and so impossible to wear un- der the coat suit without mussing. selves where they" offer a separate peace to the poor, dear Belgians. They promise to give back their coun- try and pay an indemnity if they only 'comply with their terms. . If not, what is going to be the result? God help those dear people, and may God help us to pray for help as we have never prayed before, that He will bring the armies of the Allies conquerors. God alone can bring about this peace which is needed. Then agdin, they offer a separate peace to Russia, which would mean if they agréed to this separate peace the Germans would bring their vast armies to the western front and at- tack the Frefich and British armies alone. But as true Allies, the Rus- sfans intend to stand firm to the end, until victory is won. We want peace in a rightéous and lasting way, but under such terms as the German armies want this peace we will not bé content. Let us look back amd see the murderous and treacherous deeds they have done to Belgimm and Northern France, Russian Poland, Serbia and Montenegro. - Not satis- fied in slaughtering part of the wo- men and children and aged people of these countries, they have taken all the able-bodied men and sent them into slavery, whilé the poor wo- men and girly that remain are driven from their homes and country we 'known not where, only to be abused 'and perhaps murdered. Let us look again at our. brave hero, Nurse Cavell, after doing her duty to friend and foe, the terrible death she met, like many others of our brave Ra SLEEVES 7089 Frequently the hat matches. the blouse; though it is not made of the same material. It is not nearly so difficult to match sheer fabrics with velvet and satin as formerly it was 80 that the blouse of cream or flesh color chiffon easily may be accom- panied by a toque in the same shade of satin, velvet or cloth. Ope re- FORMER RESIDENT MEETS FRIENDS Motoring Througn California Ran Across People From Brockville. In forwarding his subscription to the Brockville Recorder a former resident Brockville sends the follow- ing: A "I seem to be fortunate out here in California in meeting former resi- dents of my old home. Last year in motoring through our northern coast mountains I stopped at a small ho. tel. While I was having my after- dinner smoke on the porch the land- lord approached and said, 'Your Dame On the régister turns my mind back to the early days. What part of the east do you come from? I told him I came from Brockville, Canada, at the foot of the Thousand Islands of the St. Lawrence river. He said de came from directly opposite, near Watertown, N.Y. As my father came from the same' locality it turned out that his parents were in the early days occupants of adjoining farms. "When we had finished our remin- iscences of early memories the hotel man's - wife introduced herself and remarked, 'You say you came from Brockville, Canada? I came from Prescott, a few miles below.' When we had learned the names of our asked, 'Did 1 understand you to say Just now that you once lived in Brockville, Canada'. 1 replied that! 1 did until about 30 years ago, when | she remarked: 'My grandfather was the clergyman of St. Peter's church State of Ohio, City of Toledo, inter. | 'the Blood the of the System. Send] 5 | ouses Built for Smart Womankind by Architects of Fashion | Buires but little trimming {or the | modish hat this season. If embrojd- ery is used on the waist it may be repeated on the hat. The shops abound in beautiful modifs of taste- ful design which may serve alike for blouse or hat ornament. A well- placed motif adds much to both frocks and millinery, especially if the colors are good and blend effecti- vely, Nearly all the sleeves on fashion- ne er able blouses show cuffs. These are reep and shallow, flaring and in turn- back effect. Whenever there are cuffs there must be buttons, and these are shown in a wide variety of designs. Bone, enamel braid, satin, silk, in fact, every conceivable material is used to make the prettl- est designs, PAGE ELEVEN J Guide to Patterns, The fashiong shown on this page are Pictorial Review, designs, num= 8 bers and sizes are as follows: 9 Hats No. 7073. Sizes, 'small med & ium and large - Price, 20 ¢ a Neckpieceg and Capes No. 6893, = One size onl§. Price, 15 cents, K- Blouse No. 7011. Sizes 34 to 46 inches bust. Price, 20 tents. 2 Blouse No. 6987; Sizes, 36 tod8$ | inches bust. Price, 20 cents, 3 Blouse No. 7009. Sizes, 34 to 46 inches bust, Price, 20 cents. Blouse No. 6944, Sizes, 34 to 46 inches bust. Price, 20 cents. Pictorial Review patterns on sale by local agents, One taste of success is better tha n a meal of defeat. . there a great many years. have remembered Lis name. Denroche." "The present summer, on a trip through the coast mountains south of San Francisco we called at a choice hostelry known far and near as The. Dickinson. While there I learned that the proprietor was also a Canadian. 1 asked him what part of Canada he came from and he said: 'A place called Brockville, on the St. Lawrence.' On learning that | was also once a resident of that beaut) ful place he remarked: 'You may have known of my father. He was sheriff there for several years.' "On returning to my home I again ran against a brother Canuk in the person of a Presbyterian - minister who Mad moved into one of my sam. You may It was mer cottages in my absence, To the usual inquiry he replied: 'Yes, I am a Canadian from a place called Brockville, and if I am not mistaken you have a hrother married fo a wo- man from Gamanogque where my father lived." x Death of Germany Gemeral, London, Dec. 21.5-Getieral von Fabeck Commander-in-Chief of one of the German armies on western front is dead; aecording to, German newspapers, says a Reutep. despatch from Amsterdam. An Exchange Telegraph despatch from Amsterdam says that General von Fabe¢k coms manded on the Somme front and that be became sick after the sum- mer fighting. ' A short life affid's merry oné'is the kind. the undertakers dike, - . scene from "The Birth of a fracog tess 0. constipation. 3 Christmas is carried. Ee wr.