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msm vj&4( X j . ' T iKSr " %. 1 THE tMBrnf' PLATSDTLVT.Ett, MoIIEXKi, HX. william F, manm-m >SR3HING'S GUNS ROAR OM S fflOHTIHG FRONT--IRI8HMAN FIRES FiRST 8HOT. HERMAN POSITIONS SHELLED * ' . . J.' tj%. iVxf- t W<x " sS'fc' • & • *;<< * m TrNtvi American Troops March Into First T renches on French Front Xhrouflh Rain and Mud--Glv*n "4: %» Enthusiastic We1oome|#S^ :^'s7 With the American Army in France, Oct 30.--American troops are in the first line trenches on the French front. The artillery fired the first shot of the war at six o'clock in the morning of a recent day at a German working . party. There has been intermittent artillery fighting since. The helmeted infantry marched in, without the knowledge of the enemy, the same night, through rain and mud. The French soldiers in the trenches welcomed them enthusias­ tically. , The nearest enemy trench is several hundred yards away. The sector la one of the quietest on the front. It has not been taken over, being under the control of troops under the direc­ tion of the French. ; ^ . The Americans have shelled German positions and troops, the enemy send­ ing shell for shell. The gun used in firing the first Shot was one of the famous French 75's. Following is the first official state­ ment issued by the American head­ quarters : "In continuation of their training as a nucleus for instruction later, a con­ tingent of three battalions of our first contingents, In association with vet­ eran French battalions, are in the first line trenches of a quiet sector on the French front. "They are supported by some batter- teg of our artillery, in association with veteran French batteries. "The sector remains normal. Our man have adapted} themselves to act­ ual trench conditions In the most' sat­ isfactory manner." A red-haired Irish gunner fired the first American shot in the war on French soil. sr K Fixes Prices for Retailers and J Consumers on Sugar, Flour " * iaid Potatoes. WHEELER PUTS OUT FIRST PRICE LIST >-.£T ~S.: BRAZIL FOR WAR WITH KAISER Cbpmber of Deputies Votes Hostilities With Germany--President Sanc­ tions Proclamation. Rib Janeiro, Brazil, Oct. 20.--The chamber of deputies by an almost unanimous vote declared on Friday that a state of war existed between. German and Brazil. The vote was 148 to 1. President Braz at once sanctioned the proclamation. . The tribunes of the chamber were filled to capacity. After a debate on A" the opportuneness of proclaiming mar- tila law, the president of the diplo­ matic commission spoke In favor of a law worded as follows: *A state of war between Bra^l and Germany is hereby acknowledged and proclaimed. The president of the re­ public Is authorized to adopt the meas­ ure. enunciated In his message of the 25th of October, and to tak;e all steps tending to insure national defense and public security." 10 CONGRESSMEN IN LONDON j Party Will Visit House of Commons and Battlefields of France ' and Italy. «• _* London, Oct 26.--A party of ten American congressmen has arrived in London. The members are beginning an unofficial tour of the war area to acquaint themselves with existing con­ ditions. They purpose to vi£lt the bat­ tlefields in France and some of them will go to Italy. They will visit the house of commons and Ambassador Page will give a dinner in their honor, which former Premier Asquith and -other prominent persons will attend. The members of congress In the party are Parker of New Jersey, Tay­ lor of Colorado, Johnson of Washing­ ton, Goodwin of Arkansas, Stevens of Nebraska, Timberlake of Colorado, Dill of Washington, Hicks of New York, Miller of Washington, and Dale of Vermont. LOANS REACH BIG FIGURE pk/" < American Government Extends Credits . *t» #llle<f Powers Amounting ^ to *2,826,400,000. Washington, Oct. 27. -r- American loans to the allied governments have closely approached the three-billion mark. Treasury figures showed that this government has extended to the Ijowers engaged In war on "Germany, credits amounting to $2,826,400,000. The loons have been distributed as follows: Great Britain. $1,375,000,000; France, $810,000,000; Italy, $205,000,- 000; Russia, $325,000,000; Belgium, $68,400,000, and Serbia, $3,OOO,OO07 ^ William F. JSdemu of New Jfork city, a seaman serving on a United States destroyer in European waters, was injure^ when a German subma­ rine torpedoed the vessel. One man was killed in the attack. SUGAR PRICE IS CUT FOOD ADMINISTRATION OFFI­ CIALS MAKE ANNOUNCEMENT. Southern Planters Arrange to Release 200,000,000 Pounds to Northern Refineries. S • Washington, Oct. 26.---Two hundred million* pounds of Louisiana cane sug­ ar was contracted for here by the Amerlean Sugar Refining company, and will begin moving northward next week to relieve the serious shortage of the Eastern states. If the Eastern consumer had been compelled fO await the coming of this year's supply from Western beet and Cuban cane fields there would have bf&n no relief for existing near-fam­ ine conditions until late in Novem­ ber. • For the 200.000,000 pounds the re­ finers paid about $13,000,000. or ap­ proximately 6% cents a pound. After adding the cost of transportation and refining, It is estimated that they will be able to sell to the wholesalers at steadily reducing prices,, beginning at 8.30 cents Eastern seaboard and dropping to 7.25 by the end of the year. The latter figure is the sea­ board price previously fixed by agree­ ment for Cuban, Hawaiian and West­ ern beet sugar, and the price the food administration expects to maintain. GERMANS RETREAT 15 MILES Teutons Fall Back So Fast That Ru* siang Are Unable to Keep Up With Them. . Petrograd, Oct. 27.--The German re­ treat on the northern end of the front continues. The war office reports that the Russian vanguards lost touch In some -sectors with the retiring Ger­ mans, who destroyed all bridges, roads and buildings. The Russian statement issued on Thursday says that the Germans who left their advanced positions so far have retired about 15 miles in the Riga region near the Pskoff highroad and in the sector of the Little Jaegel river. German attempts to make another landing on the Werder peninsula, in the region of Tomba. were frustrated by Russian artillery fire. The evacuation by the civil popula­ tion of the naval base of Kronstadt has begun. Jfc •eeeeeeeeeeeeveeeeeeeeeeee • Know the Grim Truth. • Gen. John Biddle Promoted. Washington, Oct. 30.--Secretary of War Baker announced the appoint­ ment of Maj. Gen. John Biddle, for­ mer president of the Anny War col­ lege, as assistant chief of staff when Gen. Tasker H. Bliss retires Dec. 81. * ' French's Son Wounded in* Action. London, Oct. 30.--Among the British ; officers reported wounded are Major the Honorable Edward G. French, son ik of Viscount French, commander of the home forces; the earl of Dunmore and | Captain Arthur J. P^Howard. y:' , Farmers Urge Suffrage, Prohibiten, , Springfield, Mo., Oct. 29.--The farm- '•i. en' national congress closed a four- day session here by passing resolutions 1 urging national suffrage and prohibi­ tion find pledging support to the gov- , "C- «gptnent in the conduct ot the war. ,, . - Nelson Back And Registers. L " i 1 Madison, Wis., Oct. 29.--Byron Nel­ son, son of Congressman Nelson, vol-' untaril.v returning from Canada, regis- tered under the draft law at once and then entered a plea of not guilty foi alleged violation ot that ia^W/^pij , - - -- -,;f % y- { , ; * , :V" V'. •. - • • All the blood; all the heroism; all the money, and all the mu­ nitions in the world will not win this war unless our allies and the people behind them are fed. They will not be fed and our sacrifice of blood and money will be in vain and a great cause will sustain a great injury unless each one in his home each day stands guard over the nation's supply of wheat, meat, fata and sugar. . >• • • • • • • • • 'OTHER PRICES TO FOLLOW f%y. .-m • •tetaftersAre^^tfe^feWFm A ft Orders, But Are Expected to Limit Quantities to Needs * " of Customed *" * | Sprfiigfirld--Harry A."Wheeler, food ^administrator for Illinois, gave out the pfirst prices, decided upon as reason-" able for the state, for a few food sta­ ple*. The list will be added to day by day. Prices for retailer and con­ sumer, given Out, follow; Sugar--Best granulated, jftetaller pays $7.65 to $7.76 per 100 pounds, consumer should pay 7% to 8^ cents per poynd. _ Western cape. Retailer pays $7.65 to $7.76 per 100 pounds, consumer should pay 7% to 8% cents a pound. Flour---Well-known advertised mill brands, one-fourth barrel 0 In cotton bags. Retailer pays $2.§0 to $2.92, consumer should pay $2.95 to 3.18. 9ne-elghth barrel In cotton bags. Re­ tailer pays $1.42 to $1.48, consumer should pay $1.49 to $1.60. Five pounds In cotton bags. Retailer pay§ 32 to 36 cents, consumer should pay 36 to 37 cents. Potatoes--No. 1 Wisconsin, Minne­ sota and Dakota. Retailer pays $2.35 to $2.50 per 100 pounds, consumer sftould pay 43 to 46 cents per 15 pounds (peck). To Add to List Daily. - e It Is the purpose of the food admin­ istration to publish daily prices at which the retail dealer can replenish his stock and to this Is added the mar­ gin of profit which the retailer should be allowed, giving the price which the housewife should pay. Both prices are quoted so that it may be known how much profit is paid on the commodities quoted and also to indicate what dif­ ferences may exist between those stores which sell for cash and without delivery and those so-called service stores which not only deliver goods but also 1 charge and carry customers on monthly or shorter credit terms. Delivery service Is greatly abused and is one of the causes of high prices. Help out by carrying home what you can and by not requiring In ^ny case over one delivery per day. Sugar is scarce Just now, but the sugar factories are getting started and there will be a more plentiful supply soon. Mr. Hoover asks everybody to jjet along with as little as possible so we may help our allies who are very short of sugar. Retailers are not required to fill all orders but are expected to limit quan­ tities '%•» current needs Of their pa­ trons.^ '* Provision for War Discussion;^ While the war lasts there will be talk about it wherever two ot more people are gathered together, and about little else. This Is natural and inevitable. Also It Is right. The war and how to win it, what each can do to belp win it, is the big, absorbing'Job of America and ail her people. , The more people discuss the war In the right spirit, the more they learn about the reasons why America is in the war, the better Informed all be­ come concerning the enormity of the undertaking and the sacrifices that will have to be made to carry It through, the sooner will the American cause triumph through American arms. It Is to foster such war discussion that the neighborhood committee of the state council of defense was formed. Local neighborhood commit­ tees are now organized, or are in the process of organization, in teach county in t&e state. The purpose of these local committees is to hold meetings for war discussion, and to make sure such discussion is of the right kind. Through these meetings the question of why America is at war will be fully explained; authoritative 'information upon wha* America is doing will be given; all persons who doubt the right­ eousness of the Avar will be answered; the duties of all loyal - Americans to­ ward their country and their state in this time of trial will be set forth. These meetings are intended to be the clearing houses of community pa­ triotism. They should evoke the inter­ est -'f all the loyal men and women of eactt community. , •••••if Cubans Buy Bonds. Havana, Oct. 2G.--The sale of Lib­ erty bonds here has passed the $1,000,- 000 mark, the amount alloyed to Cuba fojr disposal. ' >U Boat Sinks Norse Ship. Copenhagen, Oct. 30.--A German- submarine sunk the Norwegian steam­ er Staro, 1,805 tons, off the Spanish coast, according to advices received here on Saturday. Seven of the crew were injured. U. S. Men Arrest Count. Chicago, Oct. 30.--Count James Ml- notro, son-in-law of Louis F. Swift, is at liberty on the $50,000 bond put up by the packer after the count had been arrested charged with pro-German ac­ tivities. German Women In Mines. Washington, Oct. 27.--The extent to which women are taking the place of men in the mines of Germany is dis­ closed in a government report Just is­ sued. During the last quarter of 1916 there were 37,563 women so employed, Fell 274 German Planes. London, Oct. 27.--Two hundred and seventy-four German airplanes were sh$ down by the British In Septem­ ber, according to Gen. F. B. Maurice, director of operations. 'In the same period the British lost 46 macliiae^&S 'E. A. Snively Dlea. , E. A. Snively. former member of the Illinois pardon board, and for IS years before that clerk of the Illinois su­ preme court, died suddenly of heart disease at his home here. He was seventy-two years old. To Honor Lincoln*s Meniary. At" Old Salem, near Petersburg, where Abraham Lincoln spent much of his early life, the centennial anniver­ sary of the admission of Illinois Into the Union \ylll be celebrated, next wear. In a manner characteristic of the days when Abraham Lincoln live there. The Old Salem Lincoln league Is "working out plans for the celebration. There will be rough-and-ready sports, such as Lincoln engaged in. and one of the principal features probably will be an old-fashioned barbecue. Prominent speakers will give reminiscences. The site of Old Salem is now a Chau­ tauqua ground, deeded to the Old Salem Chautauqua Association. A movement Is on foot to make it a na­ tional or state park. Judge G.' K. $el- aon of Petersburg, president of the Lin­ coln league, will appoint a committee within a few days to plan the centen­ nial observance. The committee" will consult the older residents on the forms of sport and entertainment of Lincoln's time. The patriotic feature will not be forgotten, the Lincoln league has decided, Lincoln's advo­ cacy of democracy will be recalled In *ome strtkiiyr manner. O'Connor's '-Lincoln® Urged. Possibility that the Andrew O'Con* nor statue of Lincoln, to be erected In the statehouse grounds In the courso of the centennial celebration next year, may be substituted for the Georg| Gray Barnard statue in Paris and Lonj- don, was admitted by officials of th# department of public works and build­ ings. Reason for the probable clmnpa. It was said, grew out of the protest in this country against the erecMon of th# Barnard statue, led by Judd Stewart of New York, owner of one of the most extensive private collections of Lin­ coln la the world. O'Connor, who has tua'Ie what is declared to be a faith­ ful likeness of Lincoln, will be paid $50,000 by the state for his status Under the terms of his contract, only one statue can be cast, from the modeL However, the state board of art ad­ visers and the department of public works. It is said, could give permlsi*; sfon for the casting of a duplicate for erection in a foreign country. In a letter to Mrs. Jessie Palmer Weber, secretary of the Illinois State Histor­ ical society, Mr. Stewart refers to the Barrtard statue as a "caricature," and declares It "would be little short of a crime to erect a duplicate of the statue in London or anywhere else. Farmers! Save Your Soft Corn. There will be a; great deal of soft corn in parts of Illinois this fall, which unless wisely "'used, will mean a big loss of food, says a statement pre-, pared by Clifford V. Gregory, editor of Prairie Farmer, and Sent out by the state councillor defense. The only profitable way to make use of this soft corn is as live stock feed. As much of It as possible should be made into silage at once. If that has been done already, then enough to fill the silos again should be cut and shocked. Along in the winter, after the silos have been fed out, this shocked corn can be used to refill them. If put Into the silo with plenty of water It will make a fair quality of silage. By using as much of this soft corn as pos­ sible for silage It can he converted into milk, beef or mutton, and will give mighty satisfactory returns. The hog raiser cannot use silage, but if he has a silo he can snap the ears and put them In the silo, cut­ ting them up as much as possible. This snapped corn silage makes very good hog feed, and this Is about the only way to keep this soft corn through to next summer for feeding hogs. It will pay to hog down as much of this soft corn as possible before bad weather sets In. Ilogs do well and make rapid gains ou soft corn. The corn that Is not hogged down, and Is soft and sappy, had better be left In the field all winter to be snapped off and fed to the hogs as needed. • If a very great amount of this sappy corn Is piled up It is likely to spoil, espe­ cially so in a spell of warm weather. If some of the corn Is soft and some fairly sound It will pay to husk It and sort it; the sound corn can be cribbed for summer feed and the soft corn fed out In the winter. Want Farm Handa Till Jan. t. Whether It will be advisable for farmers of Illinois to urge the war de­ partment to recommend that farm hands be exempt from service until January 1, 1918, in order that they may have ample time In which to husk the corn crop, will be decided at a meeting of the udvlsory board of the state department of agriculture. The proposition has been suggested a|f1 a general discussion of the subject Vill be had. Some farm hand* of the state, if%o have been called into the National anny, have been exere/jted from serv* ice until December L Some believe that the time Is too short, and an ad­ ditional thirty days would have given ample time in which to have all corn husked and stored. A large delegation of farmers from various parts of the state called upon Governor Lowden to ascertain what action had been taken by the state in the movement to have all farm man­ agers exempt from army service. Charles G. Adklns of Bement, direc­ tor of the department of agriculture, addressed the large delegation, which was accompanied to Springfield by State Senator Lants. Mr. Adklns ex­ plained that requests for temporary exemption to farm managers had been made to the eight federal appeal boards of the state. A number of farm organizations of the state believe that farm managers should be exempt from service In the army. To Beautify City for Centennial. A state capital beautiful movement was launched, when copies of a reso­ lution adopted by the state boards of park and art advisors urging a com­ prehensive study of a plan for the beautifying of Springfield and the cap- Itol grounds and buildings, were sent to the-various state and city officials. The movement has the indorsement of Judge Leslie' D. Puterbaugh, directors of the department of public works and buildings, and Secretary of State Ein- merson. Government Needs Stenographer*. A plea to business Eien to aid In eyery way possible In securing compe­ tent stenographers for t!te government service was received b; W. L. Conk-, ling, secretary of tr* Springfield Commercial associate n, from tto Chamber of Commerce of the United States at Washington, f). C. The com­ munication was signed by Eliot H. Goodwin, secretary of the national or­ ganization. According to the letter, the government is experiencing diffi­ culty In securing sufficient stenogra­ phers. Ask Business Men to Help. The commercial organizations of the country are urged to bring before the individual necessity of aiding in the work.' Individual business men are asked to do away with, as many skil'.ed stenographers as possible In order that they may be available for the govgp- inent service, and the organizations are urged to bring before such em­ ployees the advantages of taking posi­ tions under the government, which is now offering from $900 fo $1,200 a year for all applicants who pass tlio- civil service exumloalioas. BRIEFLY TOLD Wire Reports ' of Happenings From AH Parts of the Statfc FIXES PRICE OF CORNMEAL Retail Price Decreed by State Food Administrator Wheeler at From Six to Seven Cents Per Pound. Chicago.--The food administrator has fixed the price of cornmeal from 6 to 7 cents, and changed the price of wheat flour from 36 to 37 to 34 to 87. Pana. -- Henry Quess, thirty-five, given 35-year sentence for murder of Hllscher. Blootnington.---Mrs. Minnie Kenyon killed and itiss Virginia Randall seri­ ously injured when two automobiles collided on a country road near At­ lanta. '• .Toilet.--The paste batf rounded up the bandits that helV up and. robbed the bank at Monee, and they are now locked up at Jollet. . " Fr,eeport.--The bees In northern Illi­ nois are going into "winter quarters". In poor shape, owing to shortage of flowers the past season. Hillside.--Fire which started In a saloon destroyed $20,000 worth, of property. - Rockford.--Camp Grant eleven will play the eleven from Camp Custer, Battle Creek, Mich. Peoria.--Lloyd Savage, twenty-eight, Brimfield farmer, and Thomas O'Leary, telegraph operator at Tremont, killed in. automobile accidents. Chicago.--Stanley Novak, six, shot dead by his brother Edward, eight, while playing soldier. Chicago.--Arthur Dixon, eighty, president of the Dixon Transfer com­ pany, is dead. Chicago.--Ewald Pietsch, son of a University of Chicago professor. Is under arrest for declaring he would stick a knife in President Wilson's back if he had a chance. &• Oak Park.--John J. Arnold, -«vice president of the First National bank of Chicago, fell when alighting from a train, and his feet were cut off. CrosRville.--Safe of the First Na­ tional bank here blown by robbers and $5,000 taken. Peoria.--Robert H. Kauffman of Lacon indicted by federal grand Jury under espionage act, and Joseph Doo- ley, former postmaster of Canton for embezzling mail matter. 1 Peoria.--William E. Bowers of Av- erybille arrested on charge of violating the espionage law. Peoria.--The federal grand jury has indicted four prominent Peoria physi­ cians aud three leading druggists for violation of the Harrison narcotic law. , Chicago.--James S. Williams, Illinois state fuel administrator, has gone to Washington to attend conference on the coal situation. Chicago.--Chicago has observed Its first vvheatless day and In restaurants and hotels ate rye and corn bread. Aurora.--Sergt. Archie Moreau, six­ ty-three, oldest member of the police department. Is dead.,, Duquoin.--Stanley Preston Klmmel, pianist and composer of Duquoin, was wounded by a German shell when serv­ ing with the American ambulance corps 1n France and was returning to this country on the Antilles, sunk by sub­ marines. He was rescued and taken hack to France. Springfield.--The tax amendment to Hie state constitution is dead beyond recall following decision of the su­ preme court declaring it had not re­ ceived a majority of the votes cast at tlw 1916 election. TPeoria.--Three Peoria distillers, Corning, Clark and Walner, subscribed a million dollars for Liberty bonds. Grayinont.--Four safe-blowers blew the vault In the bank here and secured *250, but failed to get to the money box that contained $2,000. Chicago;--The supreme court has ruled that Jncog L. Jacobs was wrong­ fully ousted from his position as ex­ pert on system ami organization, and he will now sue for his salary of $3,- 500 a year from 1915 to date. Jacksonville.--With the death of Miss Mary Mayfleld. Goudy Mayfield. Chicago grain broker, has lost three members of his family within a month. Peoria.--Charles Cretrter. fifty-eight, formerly associated with his brother, Bernard, in the publication of the Ger­ man Demokrat, is dead. Springfield.--State Game and Fish Commissioner Ralph Bradford is col­ lecting a mass of evidence against game law violators all over the state and arrests will follow. Chicago.--Five aldermen, headed by Alderman Thomas J. Lynch, have gone to Washington to urge Fuel Adminis­ trator Garfield to give the city relief from the coal famine. Chicago.--The eighth triennial meet­ ing of the Congress of Jewish Womein will be held here November 5 to 10. Belleville.--Walter.N. Johnston, stu­ dent at Scottfield. fell 500 feet in an airplane and suffered a broken leg. Pana.--Night Policeman Joseph ! Rayhill has been appointed chief of police by Mayor Schuyler. Chicago.--Wailace L. De Wolfe of Lake Forest has presented to the Art institute prgjjerty and cash amounting to $50,000. y Biooinington.--Lee Roebuck of this city was killed by fail, fn a Canadian aviation camp at Deseronto. Springfield.--George Hiltabrand of Peoria and John E. Hartenbour of Chi­ cago, convicted of receiving deposits for the Tonica Exchange bank after the bank was insolvent and sentenced to three years in prison, were released on bail pending review of ense by the supreme court. Great Lakes Naval, Station.--Secre­ tary Daniels was given a great recep­ tion by 13,000 jacklef when here on tour of inspection. Aurora.--Automobile ,*thieves raid­ ed general stores in the villages of Miiiingtou. Newark, Lisbon and Bll- mar, taking only clotjgng. . Medieval Sleeve V-r "• ̂r '•4 Jbh* Well Liked Here? New York.--It is not possible to dl- Hde the new gowns Into strongly dif­ fering sections. No designer has taken a period and copied her gowns from It with certainty and exactitude. All of the French and American workers have jumbled their -history In a way that would give the seeker after truth a brainstorm. / It is well for the/public at large that the designers do not stick too closely to period clothes. When the decorators insist that one cannot have * curtain, a vase or a cushion in a room that Is dra^n from a cer­ tain period, we get beautiful pieces of interior decorative work which should be in a museum, but which have little relationship to in Intimate home life. It is wise for every woman to learn, and It worild be well if one could only t^ach the artists and decorators the same thing, that exhibition work is ope thing, but the kind of work that one must live with Is another, We can go to museums or department shops and see period rooms and period dress, but human nature resents the thought of having such limited waking and sleeping hours. Therefore, we greet with pleasure the fact that vastly different periods of history have been dipped into for the new clothes; but anachronism is rife. Cailot and the Empire. The Callot gowns were the last to get to this country, and they pre­ sented no new note, except the intro­ duction of the First Empire sil­ houette. Even when Callot took the most symbolic feature of this period, which is the high waistline that slightly girdles the figure just under the bust, she added medieval sleeves to it that the Empress Josephine never wore. The most dominant First Empire frock that Callot has sent over is 'of brilliant red that is neither geranium, Japanese nor wine. She calls It "ln- cendi?." It has the richness of a • , i ' j%f •' ;]«: V H - . Xf Thia top coat ia made of plum-col- ored satin with a woolen back, brocad­ ed in plum and mauve floss. Collar and cuffs are of black sealskin with edge of Russifan fitch. The draw string allows the c<nt to bp either Ioom or tight at waismne^--^ J - ruby in the light and resembles that jewel to the inexperienced eye more than the flames from a conflagration. This gown Is not marred by trim­ ming. As the French say. It goes without a garnish. The neck Is not low In the ^ way that Callot is apt to arrange It, and the sleeves not only cover the- arms and wrists, but the back of theirt hongs to the * knees when the arms are dropped. When Callot features a new thing, it is bound to be significant, and. therefore, when she puts a modified angel sleeve in the same gown with an extreme Josephine waistline, she Is producing something that will be widely copied and worn by women of the most uitrai'ashionable convictions. Medieval Sleeve Featured. Probably the medieval sleeve trill receive more attention from Ameri­ can women than the First Empire waistline. Tills fact Is Increasingly evident in the exhibitions of Ameri­ can-designed gowns, which have ob* . ^ v i o u s l y t a k e n t h e m e d i e v a l s l e e v e a # . - ' ' v the chief feature. f -" -j An entire chapter of dress cduld ill written concerning this sleeve. It! ^ has played a most historic part in the* evolution of fashion throughout the .' ^ centuries. America was quite well aware that some type of long, flowing sleeve ^ * would reappear this autumn. It was foreshadowed by the . voluminous tulle sleeves that reached to the wrist and hung downward in points. Every cable from Paris Insisted upon th# preference shown by the Frenci! women for gowns that did not ex­ pose the arms, even though they were half low at .the neck. Fantastic gowns In this country, designed for the footlights, brought a good deal of attention to themselves by the Im­ mensity of their sleeves, but thea# were usually fashioned on some an­ tique Chinese idea, for their squared outline was held \ in place, by Chines* tassels and Jade bracelets. Then came the first Caljot gown with the genuine medieval sleeve. The men who were in Paris early ift the summer and who saw the possi­ bilities in the renewal of such » sleeve, got it over here before the actual Callot gowns were unwrapped and displayed to the American public. It is not easy to define these sleeves by simply calling them medieval. our Amerfcan minds, they are renfr- , iniscent of the Abbey drawings. They might have been worn by the dauglt- : ters of King Lear. And above all, ^ their beauty catches the eye because ^' of the cathedral colors in which tttf ;; % are-dyed. - Chinese Panels. . > There Is another Important feature In the new fashions that no woman can fall to overlook. These are what are known in France as flying panels. They are supposedly adopted from Chinese dress^ They are placed on the skirt or on the bodice, and there are extreme gowns in which they swing from the shoulder^. Jenny uses them In a gown that fashioned after those worn by ChlnelMr women. It has an oddly shaped, trop-- feered skirt of chiffon that is exceeding­ ly modest and graceful. Over this fabric hang straight, flying panels in irridescent taffeta that Is weighted with gold and.crystal fringe. The waist is' loosely girdled about by a Chinese sash, and the long, floating sleeves of chiffon and crystals are caught In ft the wrists and are transparent. Jenny, however, is not the only who uses panels in whatever way they 3 can be accommodated to the human j figure. Doeuillet puts them on one- piece frocks and gathers them together „ at the waist under a girdle of ornate, glowing fabric. Mme. Paquin makes an evening ^T; gown that is Just two panels over a tight, sheathlike skirt, and the two an ' held in at the waistline by a brilliant- t ly colored sash that somewhat imitates "v.| the American bustle silhouette by re- ^ solving itself into a bow and ends ft ... the side. Premet, who has turned out audi ^ unusually good gowns this year, at*- sembles her flying panels under % * f sash of Chinese or Japanese embroid­ ery and arranges it in a big looped v/ bow at the side which looks some?. thing like a bustle that has slipped-*- ' ' an uncomfortable and disagreeable way S that they had of doing in that 1880 period when women wore them in an uglier form than they are introdncoj today. Need Net Match Skirt. It is not necessary to go to any trouble to have the panels match the tight skirt beneath in either color or material. Lanvln insists that the great­ er the difference between the two, tin better the style. She will use hydrangea blue and black together or golden tan and deep purple. rx-; Even when these flying panels ar« not converted into an entire gown. j there is a leading fashion which sees rf, jo It that most of our frocks look as , though they were split up the sides, , J* to show the tightest skirt that we ^ could walk In. Cherult and many of her colleagues fi have not forsaken the apron gowfc, ^ The little accessory which resemble* ^ an apron, but is intended for ornf? inent and not service, appears on jf sufficient number of new frocks , # proclaim itself still in fashion. * (Copyright. 1917. by the McClure Nmw« I H per Syndicate.) .'i fsj; The Furs Most Used. The furs which appear most oltMl this season are Hudson seal, nutriiu kolinsky, Russian rat, moufflon andL fox, especially fox dyed ift ors. , > i It's All Over Then. If a girl can get a young man t» stand up beside the piano, leaning OA it with one elbow and looking down Into her face as she plays, she doesnt have to be much of a musician. FASHION'S FANCIES Boudoir caps of satin with ruched edge have a chin strap. Directoire and postillion shapes are the last word from Paris. Wooden or bone beads much larger than thei glass, variety are used In elaborate platters on frocks of a sheer fabric. Canteen and melon muffs are shown by some of the smart houses and long bolster muffs In the better skins. The tendency to give a narrow ef­ fect to the skirts about the ankles Is more and more marked. Brocaded satins for tbte. long narrow collars, as well as other smart shapes are being made up for wear with coat wrap, the purple embroidered in coral floss and tinsel thread. Collars and vests of real princess and duch»*s lace are beiiig made for ueur with black chiffon velvet dresses. Rolling collars and cuffs of white satin are given a smart military touch by stitched lines of soatucho hnUd. small breast A white wool sweater has flowers embroidered at the pocket of fine silk soutache. Navy and flame and navy and geran­ ium red are two startling color com­ binations. Apron tunics not unlike the tuald'tf apron, with sash ends tied into a bow at the back are noted on some of th* new satin models. Lace shoes are for utility and dresny wear. 'The tau boot will have a heel from one and a half to three-quarter inches high and a wing or Imitation wing toe.6 * '* '7 A Ross Taupe Dinner Drejfe I A dinner dress of rose taupe and sil­ ver brocade Is high at the buck and la are neins maue up iw wrai . , . . . .. . ^ brought over the shoulders in short ""coral chiffon' v, Iv^'iTcoIihh^d with kimono effect; a sa*h Is of brown v«fc royal purple iu a luxurious and lovely , bronze «ai white head* lugs are over the front. We're Wearing Bibs The bib of babyhood days has been revived for the presentday maid and nir.tron.'and this is often worked out I# beads on the blottse. Some pattern® are checked, others in Sower design*^ M»a£.-0«4. -. . . v.