The following text may have been generated by Optical Character Recognition, with varying degrees of accuracy. Reader beware!

mem wsiSB®. =45s tmsmm. m&Mm,. - > V ~ *•'*& •-• *<&$< • v* ";i f^v'" DUTY McHIWftY Pl,ArNDKAl,Ek, HcHENltV. ---- ---- -glggfplgljgggp - " In ^is Address to Congress Joint Session the Chief ^Executive Explains. " the Situation. P& in TREATY BY SPRING ^IJEQfSLATORS TO BE KEPT AP- U--*' PRISED OP ALL BUSINESS S3* :L ;TR^N8ACTCD>T P*tt|i; ^ V::' , Army and Nation Praised for Glorious i Work Done--Cables Taken Over to ' Insure Uniform System---Railroad |T Problem Outlined -- Reconstruction $|i v„, Plaiip Being Given Full Censldera- js^ tion--Woman Suffrage by Federal jjjj;. Amendment Urged. , I* Washington.--President Wilson told |/ K.r .congress Monday that It was Interna- Vttonal justice that we seek, not domes- ^ • tic safely merely. He said that the principles enunciated by him as a ba- $*'j lU of peace having been accepted by j&- , 5 the nations, he owes it to them to see l|?a* that no false or mistaken interpreta- \tv Hons Is placed on then^ ' • . The president salt* he wil! belli close ItA 'touch by cable and wireless and that congress will know all that he does on '/ ^the other side. V * The president said he hoped to see «4.V -a formal declaration of peace by 'treaty "by the time spring has come." *„ Referring to his announcement that 'the French and British governments k Jihad removed all cable restrictions upon ^ • fthe transmission of news of the confer- |^yi^!ence to America, the president said, he (had taken over the American cable V {system, on expert advice, so as to make ^ r.r^a unified system available. tT V He expressed the hope that he would ,ve the co-operation of the public and f congress, saying through the cables wireless constant counsel and ad- ce would be possible. Takes Up Railroad Prbbietni. - Much of the address was devoted to i|the railroad problem, for which the ^president said he now had no solution M^-jto offer. He recommended careful study , ,ht>y congress, saying It would be a dls- [•i . jservlce to the country and to the rall- "*, I roads to permit a return to old condl- \\ > ^tions under private management with- modiOcations. No Reconstruction Plana Yet. No definite program of reconstruc- on can be outlined now, Mr. Wilson id, but as soon as the armistice was gned government control of business industry was released as far as ssible. He expressed the hope that gress would not object to conferring pon the war trade board or some oth- •r agency the right of fixing exi>ort riorities to assure shipment of food o starving people abroad. ^ i J As to taxation, the president In- ^ijdorsed the plan for levying $6,000,000,- ••'""•1000 in 1919 and for notifying the public .1 Jjin advance that the 1020 levy will be 4 %|M,000,000,000. - The new three-year naval building rogram was indorsed because, the .dent said, it would be unwise to ttempt to adjust the American pro- to a future world policy as yet letermlited. Again Urges Votes for Women. Paying tribute to the people's eon- ct In war, he spoke particularly of e work of women and again appealed ,^'or woman suffrage by federal amend- it. 'tt Declaring he had no "private thought purpose in going to Prance, but that regarded it as his highest duty, the dent added: "It is now my duty play my full part in making good What they (American soldiers) offered ilbeir life's blood to obtain." Text of President's Address. The president said: k .„. Gentlemen of the congress: The .^,Cfear that has elapsed since; I last ptood before you to fulfill my consti­ tutional duty to give to the congress from time to time information on the *3tate of the Union has been so Crowd- > «nd great results that I cannot hope £ to give you an adequate picture, of its transactions or of the far-reaching lehanges which have been wrought in the life of our nation and the world, lion* have yourselves witnessed these things, as I have. It is too soon to as­ sess them ; and we who stand in the •lidst of them and are part of them s»re less qualified than men of another feneration - will be to say what they piean or even what they have been. Jftut some great outstanding facts are Unmistakable and constitute in a sense w r. of the public business with which our fluty to deal. To*sflft# $8ih] is toe legislative and executive action which must grow out" of them and which we have yet to shape and de­ termine. Telia of Troop Shipments. A year ago we had sent 145,818 men overseas. Since then we have sent 1,950,513, an average of 162,542 each month, the number in fact rising in May last to 245,951, in June to ̂ 278,760, In July to 307,1^2, and continuing to reach similar figures in August and September--in August 389,570 and In September 257,438. No such movement of troops ever took place before, across'3,000 miles of sea, followed by adequate equip­ ment and supplies, and carried safely through extraordinary dangers of at­ tack--dangers which were alike strange and infinitely more difficult to guard against. In all this movement only 738 men were lost by enemy at­ tacks--630 of whom were upon a single English transport which was sunk near the Orkney islands. I need not tell you what lay back of this great movement of men and material. It is not invidious to say that back of It lay a supporting or* ganizatlon of the industries of the country , and all its productive activi­ ties more complete, more thorough in method and effective in results, more spirited and unanimous In purpose and effort,than any other great bel­ ligerent had ever been able to effect. We profited greatly by the experience of the nations which had already been engaged for nearly three years in the exigent and exacting business, their every resource, and every executive proficiency taxed to the utmost. We were the pupils. ; U. S. Learns Quickly, ' But we learned quickly ana'jvttfed with a promptness and a readiness of co-operation that justify our great pride that we were able to serve the world with unparalleled energy and quick accomplishment. But it is not the physical scale and executive efficiency of preparation, supply, equipment and dispatch that I would dwell upon, but the mettle and quality of the officers and men we sent over and of the sailors who kept the seas, and the spirit of the nation that stood behind them. ^ No soldiers or sailors eyer proved themselves more quickly ready for the test of battle or acquitted themselves* with more splendid courage and achievement wh$n put to the test. Those of us who played some part in directing the great processes by which the war was pushed Irresistibly for­ ward to the final triumph may now forget all that and delight our thoughts with the story of what oar men did. Proud of U. 8. Heroes. Their officers understood the grim and exacting task they had Undertak­ en and performed with audacity, effi ciency and unhesitating courage that touch the story of convoy and battle with imperishable distinction at every turn, whether the enterprise were great or small--from their chiefs. Pershing and Sims, down to the youngest lieu­ tenant ; and their men were worthy of them--such men as hardly need to be commanded, and go to their terrible adventure blithely and with the quick intelligence of those who kndw just what It is they would accomplish. I am proud to be the fellow countryman of men of such stuff and valor. Those of us who stayed at home did our duty; the war could not have been won or the gallant men who fought It given their opportunity to win It other­ wise ; but for many a long day we shall think ourselves "accursed we were not there and hold our manhoods cheap while any . . . speaks that fought" with these at St. Mihiel or Thierry. The memory of those days of triumph­ ant battle will go with these fortunate men to their graves; and each will have his favorite memory. "Old men forget; yet all shall be forgot, but he'll remember with advantages what feats he did that day!" 1 Why to Be Thankful. What we all thank God for with deepest gratitude Is that our men went In force into the line of battle Just at the critical moment when the whole fate of the world seemed to hang in the balance and threw thfetr fresh strength Into the ranks of freedom In time to turn the whole tide and sweep of the fateful struggle--turn it once for all, so that thenceforth It was hack, back, back for their enemies, always back, never again forward! After that it was only a &ant four months before the commanders of the central empires tuCui^CiVca ucoi.cn , ami uuw liieir very empires are In liquidation! And throughout it all how fine the spirit of the nation was. What unity of purpose, what untiring zeal! What elevation of purpose ran through all Its splendid display of strength, its untir­ ing accomplishment. I have said that those of us who stayed at home to do the work of organisation and supply will always wish that we had been with the men whom we sustained by our labor; but we can never be ashamed. It has been, an Inspiring thing to be here In the midst of fine men who had turned aside from every private Inter­ est of their own and devoted the whole that supplied the sinews of the whole SW undertaking! The patriotism, tBfe unselfishness, the thoroughgoing devotion and distinguished capacity that marked their toilsome labors, day after f*ay, month after month, have made them fit mates and comrades of the men in the trenches and on the sea. And not the men here in Wash­ ington only. They have but directed the vast achievement. Plan to Steady Business. i^r the steadying and facilitation of our otfcra domestic business readjust­ ments nothing is more important than the Immediate determination of the taxes that are to be levied for 1918, 1919 and 1920. As much as the burtfen of taxation must be lifted from busi­ ness as sound methods of financing the government will permit, and those who conduct the great essential industries of the country must be told as exactly as possible what obligations to the gov­ ernment they .will be expected to meet In the years immediately ahead of them. It will* be of serious consequents* to the country to delay removing all un­ certainties in this matter a single day longer than the right processes of de­ bate justify. It is idle to talk of suc­ cessful and confident business recon­ struction before those uncertainties are resolved. Troops Must Stay In Europe. If the war had continued it would have been necessary to raise at least $8,000,000,000 by taxation, payable in the year 1919, but the war has ended and I agree with the secretary of the treasury that It will be Safe to reduce the amount to $6,000,000,000. An Im­ mediate rapid decline In the expenses of the government is not to be looked for. Contracts made for war supplies will, indeed, be rapidly canceled and liquidated, but their immediate liqui­ dation will make heavy draihs on the treasury for the months just ahead of us. The maintenance of our forces on the other side of the sea Is still neces­ sary. A considerable proportion of these forces must remain in Europe during the period of occupation, and those which are brought home will be transported and demobilized at heavy expanse for months to come. The interest on our war debt mast, of course, be paid and provision made for the retirement of the obligations of the government which represent It. But these demands, will, of course, fall much below what a continuation of military operations would have en­ tailed, and $0,000,000,000 should suf­ fice to supply a sound foundation for the financial operations of the year. I entirely concur with the secretary of the treasury in recommending that the $2,000,000,000 needed in addition to the $4,000,000,000 provided by ex­ isting law be obtained from the profits which have act-rued and shall accrue from war contracts and distinctively war business, but that these taxes be confined to the war profits accruing in 1918, or in 1919, from business origi­ nating in war contracts. Asks Aid for Belgium. May I not say a special word about the needs of Belgium and northern Prance? No sums of money paid by way Of indemnity will serve of them­ selves to save them from hopeless disadvantage for years to come. Some­ thing more must be done than merely find the money. If they had money and raw materials In abundance to­ morrow they could not resume their place in the Industry of the world to­ morrow--the very important place they held before the flame of war swept across them. Many of their factories are razed to the ground. Much of their machinery is destroyed or has been taken away. Their people are scattered and many of their markets will be taken by others. If they are not In some special way assisted to rebuild their factories and replace their lost instruments of man­ ufacture. They should not be left to the vicissitudes of the sharp compe­ tition for materials and for industrial facilities which is now to set in. I hope, therefore, that the congress will not be unwilling, if it should become necessary, to grant to some such agency as the war trade board the right to establish priorities of export and supply for the benefit of these people whom we have been so happy to assist in saving from the German terrpr and whom we must not now thoughtlessly leave to shift for them­ selves in a pitiless competitive market. Forces Needed Abroad. The maintenance of our forces on Uie uiiwr »iu« ui iiie sea is still I)ec~ essary. A considerable proportion of these forces must remain in Europe during the period of occupation, and those which are brought home will be transported and demobilized at heavy expense for months to come. The interest on our war debt must, of course, be paid, and provision made for the retirement of the obligations of the government which represent it. But these demands will, of course, fall much below what a continuation of salutary operations would have en­ tailed, and six billions should suffice to supply a sound foundation for the financial operations of the year. iave been £.64 as in vocati the Stnith-Hughes law. " - total of t for Hon under In addition. *•» >- RISONERS BENEFIT BY WORK p;i#i (Experience of New Zealand Has ^ Shown Beyond Doubt the impor- | tanoe of Useful Employment. 1 According to a statement given out tv the minister of justice of New Zea- it is <?ustomary to give every able-bodied prisoner serving time in prisons in inat dominion work at use- A! employment, and during- the past the prisoners Of the country earn- . «d $209,260, compared with $394,187 IMPORTANT TO STAND ERECT as the total cost of the prisons' de­ partment of the dominion. The prison occupations now include the making of bricks and concrete tiles, bootmaking, farming, dairying, tree planting, stone dressing and road making, and the wages fixed at $1.21 a day per man when this work is done for public bodies. The government has a prison farm of 1,200 acres that was bought In the rough state for $4,87 per acre, and has been improved by this prison labor until now it Is estimated to be worth "•X'J Jphild Should Be Taught as Early ble What It Mems to lie. quire Right Position. . Which every Child *stimfTd taught to memorise and of equal ue with time tables and spelling V Charts is the secret of correct posture. A simple description of the correct ;; Way to stand is given by a$ ^xpert of jpstnre as the follo>Wng; f Feet firmly planted on the ground. with the Veight forward on the balls of the feet, using the heel's for bal­ ance; weight equally distributed be­ tween the two feet. Knees firm and straight. Hips neither too far back nor too far forward; stomach drawn in, but not with an effort, rather the result of correct hip and chest posi­ tion. Chestbone held high; breathing from the diaphragm (the large muscle between the chest and abdomen). Neck • erect as if pushing the back of the neck «gainst a high, stiff collar,, the chin llftfi and the eyes forward. v v . ' about $82 per acre, and the minister 3f justice recommended that another similar tract be selected for im­ provement by the prison labor of the country. Near Christchurch prison­ ers are erecting new concrete prison buildings. This reformatory system seems to be working very satisfactorily in New Zealand, since the health of the pris­ oners is belter and their behavior greatly Improved. It seems it might be introduced with advantage in this country. It would be a good plan to make the child recite this each day, carry­ ing out the details of the posture ar he comes to them. After a while it will only require a gentle, "Stand straight, dear!" to recall the child to the correct posture, without remem­ bering each detail In particular. Appropriate Refuge. "The reports says the crown prince fled to Umbourg." "Well, that's a 'good plaet for a bad cheese." Uibana.---Vice Director Wittier F. Henschin of the agricultural'extension service of the University of Illinois is sending out a message to county ad­ visers urging them to co-operate at once in helping to place feeder pigs on the farms in the corn belt instead of allowing them to remain in the abort fefcd drought sections of 'the country. Mr. Hanschin quotes from a letter from W. C. McGuir^ federal agent in feeder pig distribution, showing the expediency both to the country and to the farmer. The letter says In part: "While some farmers show a disposition to fear a serious decline in the hog market since the armistice has been signed it is an in­ disputable fact that meat production across the water has been reduced to a low point, and in the event of peace Europe's first order would be for meat." Springfield.--Attacking the Illinois state railroad rat<^law as being uncon­ stitutional, the Aurora, Plainfield & Joliet railway, through its counsel, Winston, Payne, Strawn & Shaw, filed a bill for injunction In the United 8tatee district court asking an injunc­ tion against, the Illinois state public utilities commission and the state s at­ torneys of Will, Kane and Kendall counties, to prohibit them from en­ forcing it. The railway, an electric in- terurban line of 22 miles doing princi­ pally a passenger business, recently asked the public utilities commission for permission to raise Its rates from 2 to 3 cents a mile. Under the state law a fare of but 2 cents a mile with­ in the state is permissible. Springfield.--Governor Lowden has appointed the following delegates to the tenth annual convention of the Southern Commercial congress to be held at Baltimore, Md., December 8 to 12; Lucius Teter, Walter J. Raymer, Prank L. Shepherd, W. F. Hypes, Wyl- lys T. Balrd, E. Allen Frost, John W. 0'Leary, Harry N. Tolles, Edwin R. Skinner, Carl Latham and Mrs. Sophie Delavan, all of Chicago; William But- .terworth, Mollne; T. D. Keber, Rock- ford; George Roper, Rockford; David Patton, Belvidere, and Robert O. Lan- phier, Springfield. Danville.--Following bitter arraign' mem of the Germans, the Danville city council went on record as opposed to the handling in this city of any Ger­ man-made article. After several coun- :ilmen had spoken In support of a res-> alution, citing instances of cruelty and barbarism on the part of the Teutonic soldiers, a resolution urging all mer­ chants to refuse to handle German- made toys or any article "made in Ger­ many, and dripping with blood from the hands of murderers of children of Belgium and France," was adopted. Springfield.--Paroled convicts from Dlinois penal Institutions, engaged in war industrial work at the government irsenal at Rock Island, subscribed for 151 Liberty bonds amounting to $22,- 350, the state department of public welfare announced. The earnings of these men totaled $56,432.44 in Octo­ ber, an average monthly earning of 595.45. Prisoners were paroled from the penitentiaries at Joliet and Ches­ ter and the reformatory at Pontine. Chicago Heights.--Five persons were killed when an automobile in which they were riding was struck by a freight train on the Baltimore & Ohio railroad at the Sixteenth street cross­ ing in Chictigo Heights. The dead are: George Rich and wife, Edith Rich; Al­ fred Gloriana and wife, Elsie Gloriana; William Coleman. All were residents of Chicago Heights. The automobile was crushed against the curbing along the street , Great Lakes--Immediate release of 25 per cent of all naval reservists and regulars enlisted for the duration of the war in the Ninth, Tenth and Eleventh uuval districts, or approxi­ mately 7,000 men, has been authorized by the bureau of navigation. Springfield.--Ward It. Robinson has resigned as secretary of the state civil service commission. He is a captain in the central officers' training camp at Chicago. The vacancy will be filled at an examination to be held January 16. Chicago.--The work of the woman's committee of the state council of de­ fense in behalf of women and children tn industry is to be carried on as ener- tcucuii^ iW iue iieAi lew muuiiiH as it was before the war was won. ( Savanna.--Having been advised that cider with a decided "kick" in it was being* dispensed here, the state au­ thorities have ordered the sale of that beverage discontinued. Savanna has been "dry" since last April.' Mount Carroll.--Nineteen )>ersons have been indicted by the Carroll county grand jury, most of them being charged with gambling and bootleg­ ging. Rockford.--Food Administrator H. S. Whipple has been asked to investi­ gate alleged post-war profiteering in canned goods. Springfield.'--Illinois has an Ar* menian and Syrian relief committee. Included among its fifty members re­ cently appointed by Governor Lowden, who is chairman of t6e committee, are Francis M. Blair, state director of pub­ lic education, and Mrs. H. T. Morrison of Springfield. The, committee Is pro­ posed for the extending of aid to the suffering peoples of Armenia and Syria. These countries have been torn by the world war such as none others. Their plight is world history. A national fund for the relief work Is being sought and Illinois' quota has been set at $2,031,905. Springfield.--Plans are under way here for a merger of the Central Illi­ nois Telephone company and the In­ terstate company In Illinois. The movement is one of the biggest ever attempted In the telephone history of the state and involves millions of dol­ lars. • Urbaha.--If you are sick you are*en­ titled to -good food and plenty of it, according to the conservation depart­ ment of the Champaign unit of the woman's committee of the state coun­ cil of defense. A thrift kitchen has therefore been started hec* to supply "food to ail needy sick. j$8,673.52 has been granted by die Mate board for vocational education, aa .̂ disbursement for teacher-training ewnfies in vocational subjects conduct­ ed by the University of Illinois, the Normal university and the Southern Illinois Normal school.- The cities par­ ticipating in the Initial allotment were Chicago# Areola, Atwood, Centralis, Chrisnan, Gaiesburg, Geneseo, Jersey- ville, Leland, Mendota, Meomora, Mo­ llne, Newman, Normal, Oakwood, Ob­ long, Peoria, Robinson, Rockford, Sparta and Toulon. Federal allot­ ments of the funds authorised under the law--industrial and home econom­ ics, agricultural and teacher training --amounted to $93,772.25. The reim­ bursements totaled $26,476.16 nnd there was a balance of $67^296.0®, which was returned to the federal treasury. This year's allotments for Illinois foot up $137,581.93, Including $32,852.76 for agricultural subjects; $61,658.88 for industrial and home economics subjects, and $43,070.30 for teacher training. Urbana.--Two hundred and fifty stu­ dents have enrolled in the department of education at the University of Illi­ nois for the first quarter, a registra­ tion about 15 per cent less than last year. The decrease is evident in vir­ tually all of the courses offered, and particularly In the graduate, a condi­ tion which is none too promising for meeting the demand for trained teach­ ers. More favorable teaching condi­ tions and higher salaries are necessary to offset the Inducements which are taking teachers into other lines of work and which are causing a distinct shortage In teachers. The appoint­ ments committee at the university has been unable to make recommendations for teachers of physics, chemistry, manual training and French since last August and at present very few candi­ dates for work of any kind are avail­ able, though calls are now coming In at the rate of twelve to fifteen a week. Springfield.--Demand for coal by winter consumers was never less than now. It was said by members of the Coal Operators' Association of Illinois. The miners are complaining of slack­ ness In p|oduction of coal. "Many min­ ers have worked but two and three days a week.'* Freeman Thompson, president of the sub-district U. M. W. A,. said. Regardless of the approach of cold weather, coal cars are sitting Idle full of coal along the tracks, one coal operator said. This Is acounted for by two reasons, it was said. First, be­ cause the people, warned by the fuel administration, stored up a great sup­ ply of coal, which they are now using, and secondly, because of the coal being more abundant In the East, due to ship building being stopped by cancellation of government orders. Chicago.--Throughout Illinois local organizations of the food production and conservation committee, state council of defense, have begun a sur» vey which is intended to show by counties the number of men needed^n Illinois farm now, and the numbe* which will be needed at planting time next spring. This information will bs forwarded to the war department at Washington, D. C., as soon as it is com­ plete, so that no time may be lost in returning the men needed when the armies are demobilized. Letters have been sent county chairmen of the food production and conservation commit­ tee asking them to complete the sur­ vey in co-operation with the trade boards and forward the figures to the state council. Urbana.--The possibility of chang­ ing Illinois coal Into a smokeless fuel is suggested in the experiments on the carblnzation of coal, which were re­ cently completed by Prof. S. W. Parr of the department of chemistry at the University of Illinois. Professor Parr has been conducting investigations lo applied chemistry for several years, with satisfatcory results. The by­ products shown In the experiment are also of interest and may have an Im­ portant bearing on the manufacture of gas for city and other industrial pur­ poses. Springfield. -- Church organizations in central Illinois have been branded as tax dodgers In information received here from Washington by Internal Revenue Collector Pickering. It states they have failed to make returns to the commissioner which, according to the law, provides for reports on the amounts paid for salaries, wages, rent and interest, exceeding $800 ^pr the year 1917. A warning that' prosecu­ tion will follow if the negligence con­ tinues has been issued by the authori­ ties. Great Lakes.--Matty civilians who have commented upon the youthful ap­ pearance sailors' Uniforms give their wearers may be Interested in figures recently compiled by the medical au­ thorities at Great Lakes naval train- ing station. These figures show that six out of every ten men on this sta­ tion are twenty-two or under that age. One-sixth of the entire number here are ^twenty-one years and about the same percentage twenty-two. Peoria.--The stace convention of the Illinois Independent Telephone associ­ ation, postponed from the first week of November, due to the Influenza, will he held December 10, 11 and 12. Chicago.--Chicago's reconstruction program, which includes the most not­ able improvements ever planned by any city except Paris, is to be pushed with great energy, members of the As­ sociation of Commerce were told by Walter D. .Moody, managing director of the Chicago plan commission. The program Includes improvements to cost $150,000,000, which were held up by the war. Springfield.--Delegates to the Illi­ nois grand lodge, I. O. O. F., approved the recommendation of the committee and voted $42,000 for a relief, fund for disabled members who are returning from the battlefields^ of Europe. The action of the body was by far the most important step taken by the conven­ tion in Its four days while In session here. Mollne.--Following his election to the state senate from this district. Mayor M. R. Carlson of Mollne re­ signed and Commissioner C. S. Trevor was inducted Into office as his rtio> New York.--Since the days of the Booeevelt administration in Washing­ ton depressing statements have come from the social center anent the cost of being well dressed. Depressing for the reason that they were so appall­ ingly low. Nothing so produces dis­ couragement In humans, writes a fash­ ion authority, as to be told that they should and can accomplish a desifed result on a sum of money that they consider almost too small for the pre­ liminaries. You as a woman know that full well. What would reduce you to greater rage or a feeling of utter hopelessness than to be. told by the head of the family of the amazing achievements of an­ other woman in regard to money, to clothes, and to food? "As regards external dothlng. It would appear that the average earning woman who is well usually chooses these items ot\ wardrobe from the following articles: Suit or coat (alternate] $25 to $30; shirtwaists, $6 to fl5; piece dress, $15; wool skirt, $5 to $10; summer skirts, $3 to $5; party dress (worn for two years), $25. , "If dose economy Is necessary, a skirt at about $5 may be worn with separate waists in lieu of a $15 one- piece dress, or a dress waist worn with a suit may be substituted for an eve­ ning dress, or a winter coat may be worn for three seasons, or an evening dress for three or four years. In view of the range of choice, it appears that a woman may reasonably be expected you h»ye doa» r̂î boit wiai yeurfto securo outside clothing for* goo* * V' -ft - i "t' w P A',; ' ' ^ On the left is one showing a short, loose tunic of terra eetta chi(fo% trimmed with skunk and embroidered In black* There is a narrow skiff of black satin and a long chain of jet. The large hat Is of fur. On ttm right is a black velvet frock fastened in back and trimmed with narrow bands of ermine. There la a sash of black and silver brocaded ribbon. allowance, of that yon are sure. Sudf Is the feeling that surges In every woman's mind and heart when Wash­ ington informs us, infrequently, what can be done in our own chosen line of work at {i slight expenditure of money. Now, when Washington--through the bureau of labor statistics* not through thte White House--gives as the average cost of being well dressed the following figures, one feels like giving up the whole problem of how to look well on little. The total yearly allowance for dress of th«Qe women who make a smart appearance (the phrase belongs with the statistics) Is $125 a year. Can you do it? Outside clothing (sul£s, coats, sweat­ ers, dresses, waists, dress skirts), $57.58; hats, $11.59; shoes, $14.20: gloves, $3.32; stockings, $&68; corsets, $3.41; underwear, $7.18, and miscel­ laneous, $1427. BITING NAILS, CHEWING UPS Disfiguring Habits Easily Acquired* Young Qirls and Older Women' Being Among Offenders. One of the most unwholesome and disfiguring habits is the biting of the bails and chewing the Hps. All ages, too, are represented, since wee chil­ dren, young girls and older women are Chewing the lips, extractibg bits of skin from the Hps, or biting them Is a habit which tends to disfigure the mouth by making it larger and pulling it out of shape. Thus the expression of the face changes for the worse. This habit is easily acquired and grows apace. Some persons Immediately start to bite their lips as soon as they are engrossed in a book or with work in hand. Facial distortions are often grotesque, though the offender Is to­ tally unconscious of the attention he is attracting. While this practice of drawing the lips about does not improve the face, it is not in the same class with biting Latticework of Gold. Along with other revivals, by the way, there comes Into the fashions a plentiful use of the old quilting stitch done In gold thread. It is nothing but simple latticework, and can be done by an amateur; but It is vastly ef­ fective. It has usurped the place of embroidery of a more lavish and bril­ liant type, but a gown loses nothing In the exchange. Those who are the apostles of simplicity prefer it Dark satin frocks are enhanced by it, and also more practical ones of serge, vel­ veteen and velours. The metal thread must be tarnished and dull; brilliancy is too glaring. It, as a fashion, should suggest itself immediately to a woman who is in need of a new Idea for the front of a blouse, the end of a panel, or the hem of a long skirt ; ^ ; appearance at an expenditure of frsai $70 to $75. "As regards articles of dress otter than outside clothing, the necessary expenditures would be distributed roughly as follows: Hats, $10 to $15; shoes, $12 to $17; gloves, $2.50 to $5; stockings, $3 to $7; corsets, $2 to $5; underwear, $5 to $10; and miscella­ neous, approximately $10. Allowing for individual variation in prices and choice, this means an annual expendi­ ture of from $50 to $00 for these ar­ ticles, which as a rale have to be if* placed each year. "Combining these two amonntoH-oofc- side clothing $70 to $75, and other articles of dress $50 to $60--the total yearly expenditure would range froas $120 to $135, averaging approximately say, $125." (Copyrisht, IMS, W the lOcCtnrs .Wiawpj par Syndicate^ the nails, which admits thousands M germs directly Into the mouth, heacs to the stomach and intestines, and «a on Into the blood. * Blouses and Collaiffcji ; Fichus are used on many dinner dresses %nd a number of black satin dresses are made with white georgette crepe or chiffon aprons. Many of the blouses are long and some are draped around the hips and tied at one side. Many at them are vqpr long; with Hats Wthout Framed " tr ;" • hat without a frame has made Its appearance, according to the Bulletin of Retail Millinery Association ef America. It Is made entirely of vel­ vet or panne velvet, shirred aadi tucked, and whichever way the wearer wnnts to make use of It It "stavs not," I The Bulletin says that a very charts- 1 ing hat may be made of it by turning • up the back and front, thus mafctng the sides wide and giving a Napoleonic, effect It may be trimmed wlfll a fancy pearl or rhinestone pin, or vrMl or cut-steel buckle. _ > ̂ ' - Calop Nete la 8mm "There Is a tendency toward color IS "* some new suits.- Gray and brown ft»rt now so fashionable, combines with ss many attractive shades that women, tiring of navy and black have shown a preference' for other colors. Heuna and Algerian red are popular coloca this season. tunics which are almost as long aft' the underskirt and are cut just alike back and front, except for a vest in front. Very high collars, which ara worn doubled over about the throat, have never been more in vogue; thejr are sometimes turned up to the *»y*% - and sometimes worn turned bade oil the shoulders like a cape. > '» km Satin Collar en Sweaters. \Some of the new sweaters are with sutin sailor collars and satin sashes to match. On sweater the satin pieces were lished with circular designs at four corners of the collar, at the < of the sash and at the front of cuffs, done in embroidered wart; ill ,-s. Waistcoats of Silk. • Separate waistcoats to wear u autumn suits are made of qQk trimmed with colorful soutache Ing or yarn emrboidery; some ef t models dose in the front with aa more buttons; others are shape of slipover jumpers blouses. «e popular a •** ..*•