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LER. Y. TI,L & J vi««^':...!SiliK!' Favor in Paris Ifcttirtlle. Ata-tea-Belm aod Monte Carlo are principal points of Interest on the fashion program. Paris, whicn is to say all of fashionable Paris, has betaken Itself to the smart resorts in France, so it is necessary to follow closely, asserts a prominent New York fashion writer, if one is to keep in touch with the latest developments to dress. Always on the alert, Paris traveled to the races, bat many of the best people were absent and the mldinettes failed the dressmakers at the last moment, so that there were fewer new frocks than had been expected. Happily most of the troubles are over and the best houses have pi-omlsed interesting and important changes. However, we are left to guess what the changes are to be, though a few of the models give some important clews and the assurance that whatever the changes may' be one may be certain that they will be Interesting. The elegance of ""the pre-war to>: lettes is repeatedly mentioned an-' there is every Indication that eve tually the more elaborate manner » dressing will return. Lace, which has long since been discarded. Is considered one of the most important materials for afternoon wear. Many and conflicting were the comments on its use at the races, but 'n spite of adverse opinion it was noted that as the days passed by and the makers had an opportnnity of showing new models the lace dresses increased in numbers. An all-lace frock was contemptuously referred to as a lace curtain, bat nevertheless the dress was re* peated later by other womefi. The widely diverging views in regard to the use of lace are to be expected, for there is no more difficult material to handle, and if used the frock is sure to be either a decided success or a miserable failure. Paris is surely correct when following its usual rule of never doing things by half-way measures. It selects the widest laces possible and drapes them over something dark to give the pattern the best advantage. Other models Illustrate the use of black and 'white Chantilly, used In the same dress with a most refreshing effect. Callot, Cheruit and Pierre Bulloz are all makihg use of quantities of lace in the summer models, which they always show in mitfseason for the benefit of their resident Paris clientele French women have always been partial to lace for afternoon wear and know how to wear 11 to the best advantage. Where the American woman is prone to place with It a hat that carries the same tame note as the lace, the French woman will wear something that will provide a contrast and tone up the entire costume. The contrasting note will be found usually in the bat or the material combined with the lace. As black and white Is at present the most popular combination in Paris the hat is frequently of black tulle, either with crosse or paradise. Two of the smartest dresses of lace at Monte Carlo were in black, as were the hats which were worn with them. In both of these dresses the lace figured in the skirt principally and th«» waist was of taffeta with a touch of lace. Tunics are as prominent as ever in the scheme of the lace dress, but the lace reaches almost to (he bottom of the foundation skirt. The dark silk dresses considered sufficiently elaborate for any afternoon affair if embroidered or otherwise embellished seem to be passing out, at least for the summertime. Jenny uses Chantilly lace In a large way, that Is to sayi Ih qaantlties afid in big spaces. A black satin and black tace frock by her ft typical of the prevailing mode in more ways than one. It carries the harem hem, the almost sleeveless bodice «»nd the nipped-in waistline with the fullness bulging both below and above. To all intents and purposes the dress is of lace, with the pattern In the sweeping curves common to Chantilly. Below the waist there Is a foil peplum and the satin Is draped as a scarf over TO HEP, THE CHILDREN OF AUSTRIA! An organdie embroidered summer •klrt with a flesh georgette blouse with Val laoe. The. hat Is maline with a robin's egg blue raffia crown --a fine summer outfit. the shoulders, forming the only sleeves there are and falling straight to the hem at the front, leaving an open space showing the lace, about eight inches wide, in the center. Drapery and Plaiting. Several striped dresses in taffeta have been noted that show the same arrangement of drapery over the shoulder and one a bit on that order Is marvelously constructed of fine plaiting. Variation is found In the way the plaiting Is looped up at th* sides is a modified pannier effect. Across the front of the upper part tho plaits are held in closely, like a girdle, and at each side allowed to fall loosely In a large loop. * Drecoll shows a Chartreuse colored frock with the skirt draped In Chantilly and the girdle forming wing-ilke loops at the side, giving the desired width. On the whole new models are rather scarce, suggesting that the best known makers are not averse to holding back as many of their creations as they may for later In the season. Whether by accident or following the lead of Paris, a well-known American designer turned out lately a charming afternoon dress of organdie and black net, bearing out the assertion that silks are no longer absolutely. necessary in the construction of the reception and dinner frock. The entire gown was of French blue organdie draped with the net in tunic fashion ami edged with black lace. If either this frock or the lace frocks noted at the races are any indication, the chemise dress is on the wane, for each one is marked by a decided waistline and both show sashes tied in huge bows at the back. All the late models by Beer point to the fact that the flaring tunic over a tlgher foundation continue in favor. Cloth dresses in redingote styie continue to appear and are quite the accepted thing when wool dres^s are worn. From this the indications are that the redingote will be among the autumn models when they make their appearance on this side. ...fcCw Paris Claims Shoe Laurels tNtt) American fashions as blue as indigo, Jenny In going fo' the other extreme makes these suits in bright rose color, and she furthermore inclines to citfon and other bright colors. > As Jenny has been in the past one. of the foremost advocates of navy blue. It will rather be interesting to note if her new Choice will have any effect on the color of the new full models on this side. Jenny makes her suit coats just a trifle shorter than heretofore, but that does not mean that they are particu- . larly so or even as short as the coats we have been wearing, for Jenny always favors the longer line. The materials are In the main of duvetyn or Bure. A suit for warm weather wear is of rose colored Bure with the shorter line and the fronts barely meeting. SO that the front of the blouse is seen In glimpses now rfnd again. Bands of the Bure in white are used about the edges -and the Collar is of the white. Paris is patting herself on the back and congratulation herself upon having captured the shoe laurels from the United States. This is all when viewed from the other side of the Atlantic. In dne course of time the pendulum probably will swing over to round-toed shoes or some o«hfcr Innovation, but for the present such laurels as we have are still here. The extreme high-heeled shoe with tln\ short toe is anything but graceful, giving the foot when seen from the front the appearance of clumsy weight, not so much from the size as the angainliness of the shape. Added to «the width gained by the peculiar build of the shoe is the effect of the numerous strops that run up the ankle and are attached to an extension at the back of the shoe. These also tend to make the shoe look larger. American women as a whole would doubtless welcome anything not too ugly that might be new and would held the low shoe firmly on the foot, The everlasting flopping of the pump becomes tiresome and so the time •* ripe for a change, although It Hi doubtful if the French shoe in Its present form will be found acceptable. SHORT SLEEVES ARE TO STAY On* ef the New Styles That Promises to Remale---Majority of Dressls ' Are Sleeveless. . Paris grows every week more noticeable. At the beginning of the season no fashion c n be counted as durable because it has to pass the test of the women who have the tast word. Among the styles that have come to •tay Is the short sleeve. Every new dress is more or less sleeveless. Another fashion vMch shows signs of increasing in favor is the use of flowers 16 millinery. For many reasons this fashion should be oacouraged. It may lessen the love of aigrettes and paradise plumes which has so ions dominated French taste and it will revive an old and honorable industry in France, an industry which, a few years ago. was rapidly passing Into Qerman hands. The pattern flowers were , made Id France, and In Germany they were copl >d cheaply The best flowers were always made In France, but they w# espegatat. Now, according to the information of one the first makers in Lyons, France is aide to make dowers almost sis cheaply and with greater taste than the Germans have ever made. This year's flowers are strange blossoms, not mere copies of nature, but productions in decorative art which have a cache all iheir own. Roses** in gold, silver, faded tones of red. orange, bine and gray--above all, white roses, crumpled and veiled with tulle. Fruit, too. Is seen, especially white grapes. Small oranges, infinitesimal apples and other fruits in .vivid colors are used in very small bunches to give a note of color to a dark hat. One woman1 on Sunday wore a hunch of roses under the brim of her hat In front, a little to one side, and, remembering the vogue of the cachepeigne in times past, it is almost sure that it wiil again become populur. •,.. Te Cure Goose Flesh. < Pimpled skin, sometimes called geoee flesh, appears mostly in the tipper portions of the arms and over the shoulders and Is cured by hot sods Wwiern Nrws|Mf>er t'nloa Daily ineuls to the 12v>,<XK) children of German Austria, who are in bitter need, are made possible by the formation of the American mission for the help of the children of German Austria. Our photograph shows a celebration held in honor'of the active start of the society at the Angarton in Vienna. Colonel Torroy'is addressing the assembled American and Austrian guests, JELLS LOST SHIP WHERE SHE IS System of Triangulation Will Give Bearings to Bewildered '• Craft Jttlf f PORTS TO WATCH Operators at Radio Stations Figure Out Position of Boat by CompiW Used Hi Navy for Years. New York.--Not the least of the dangers attending the business of being a mariner has been that of losing one's bearings while at sea. Time was when the sailor's life was more replete with danger than in these days of ndvapced maritime efficiency. But though the ocean terrors were eliminated one by one until there remained little to be afraid of. there still was the disconcerting possibility of a ship losing Itself; of fogs and compass :rregularities; of mishaps to instruments and disabilities of steering mechanisms. Thus every so often a liner or freighter or a warship was reported "lost in the fog" or "out of, its course." The (Jutted States naval communlca tlon service has perfected a system of^ triangulation that has eliminated the possibility of further maritime reports of this sort. It is not the discovery of any one mtui. Indeed, it truly cannot be classified as a discovery. It is simply a perfection of a basic rule of position finding that has formed the fundamental of range determination In the army and a straightforward geometric theorum concerning intersecting lines. System Explained. perfected system ln»s been In use fn the American navy for a year. At 44 Whitehall street the system was explained briefly by an aches of the New York district central controlling radio station. It Is to l>e assumed that a ship Is a hundred miles off the middle Atlantic c<«ast. She has lost her tosnrlu;:*. Her navigators are unable t/fell her latitude and longitude. At once the bewildered ship's radio flashes the American coast a demand to be told the data she needs most: "Where am I?" The request coming within the-sector for which the New York dtstrlct central controlling radio station Is responsible, the appeal Is received by five radio compass stations located at Montauk Point, L. I.; Fire Island, Rockaway Beach. Sandy Hook and Mantoloklng. N. J. Each of these stations Is connected with 44 Whitehall street by telegraph and telephone. These radio compass stations cannot communicate with the "lost" ship, as they sre receivers only and not transmitters. However, each of the radio compass stations notifies the central station In Whlteall street that a ship within the district is demanding to know Ita location. Immediately the central station radios the bewildered mariner to continue flashing his call letters for at least thirty seconds. And at the same time the r«!fllo compass stations begin obtaining bearings on the ship. Then Ita 8lmple. The operators in the five stations tnrn their compass wheels until each has an accurate bearing. These five readings are transmitted to the central station where, on a huge chart, the five readings are combined. Each reading will indicate a certain number of miles between the ship and the station that took the bearing. It is s relatively simple matter, then, to project these lines upon the chart until the five lines intersect. And thfit point of intersection Is the location of the calling ship. Acknowledgment from the ship completes the operation. Every American port is now being safeguarded by Just such systems of radio compasses end central stations. Within a few months, at any point along the coast, mariners will be able to approach channels, reefs and shoal waters with an absolute assurance that they will not proceed too near, nor yet exercise such great caution as to throw them out of their course. And thus also Is the danger attending fog hanks eliminated. Lieutenant Commander B. B. Coffman. U. S. N„ is superintendent of the central station at 44 Whitehall street. Lieut. M. W. Arpfc, U. S. N., Is in direct clufrge of the New York district. BID BY FRANCE IS TOO LOW Offers Only $300,000,000 for United States Material--May Be Sold Elsewhere. Washington.--The French ment having ofTered only $300,005,000 fof American army equipment In France, costing $1,500,000,000, the war department has ordered a sales organization for disposal of the property be formed In France. Director of Sales Hare told a special house committee Investigating war department expenditures abroad. Director Hare said the French offer was made to Chairman Parker of the United States liquidation committee. The offer, he stated. Included all material, Including ship docks, railroad works and equipment. automobile trucks and textiles. "If France will not pay a fair figure," the director added, "we will take the stuff out of the country and sell It elsewhere." LIMBS ARE SELF-ACTING "Kinematic Surgery" Developed to Extraordinary Degree. Italian Physician Achieves Remarkable ~ Rssufts tn Fitting Artificer , Legs. • .<** Bologna, Italy.--Remarkable results h#*e been achieved In Italian military hospitals recently by the use of what i? known as "kinematic surgery." the invention of Professor Putti of Bologna university. Professor Putti's methods have aroused intense interest on tlie {•art of American doctors attached to the Balkan commission of the American Ued Cross who are supervising the artificial leg factories already established and being established :lu Athens, Salonikl. Belgrade and Bucharest for the war's mutilated. At present allied soldiers In the Balkans who have lost their limbs are being fitted with artificial limits and arms of a type similar to that employed by Sarah Bernhardt. Professor Ptitti's methods, however, are n distinct advance over all other artificial appliances. His treatnjent of amputated llmhs consists of a unique preparation of the stump to develop a "motor" end to the cords which, after being bound together over a smooth "bearing" of bone, get as much as a three-inch travel of the leg^by means of a reeducation and co-ordination of the muscles of the' stump. After the stump heals Professor Put tl cuts out a flap of flesh, which he folds l>Hck Into an incision to take the flap. This is allowed to heal and then through the loose flap of flesh a metal bar with attachments to operate the artificial limb below Is suspended. * The muscles of the calf and thigh readily respond after some weeks to the movement of the artificial leg, and soon the pressure of the swinging of the artificial leg re-educates the muscles through the flap of flesh, so that it may be said the muscles of the stump actually operate by themselves the mechanical features of the artificial limb. In the case of a severed hand the muscle groups surrounding the bone are trained to operate catgut cords which, in turn, operate artificial fingers. Not since the introduction of "debrldgement" In American army medical work in France has any medical innovation created as much comment. WRITES NEWNOVELOPERA Mascagni's Latest Effort li Revolutionary Step. ^Characters, but Rapreaents :.|0*as for Which Men Wave Striven. *r Rome.--Pletro Jdascagnl. known to everyone as the composer of "Cavalier^ Rust it. ana" and numerous other musical works, has written a netf opera. "II Piccolo Marat." which la characterized hert as distinctly a revolutionary step in operatic works. It contains no personalities as character* in the story, but it substitute* for them t»yml»ollc representations of virtues and ideals similar to the American pageant. "1 expect to produce my new opera next winter In Rome." said Signor Mascngni to the Associated Press correspondent. "The theme is founded on the conflict of the Ideas between the autocrat and the democrat, between oppression and freedom. The time of the opera, of course. Is not limited to any one |»eriod. The opera is sym- IH»IIC of many periods and would Just as readily apply to the stirring times of the American Revolution as It would to the French revolution, or the Russian or the Bnvariau. • "1 have no characters In the production representing any particular persons titles. There Is no Napoleon. Metternich or Onrihaldl. My character* represent the ideas for which men have endeavored to keep man In subjection. There Is a character for Justice. foi truth, for freedom; and. on the other hand, for tyranny, for Ignorance. for wrong. The plan In my'new work lias been to depict In song the evolution of innn from a slave to a f-ee man through the Instrumentality V? characters representing the abstract qualities for which man fought, and. on the contrary, the qualities he fought against." 60-Foot Bone Found in Canadian River Bed Winnipeg. &lan.--A huge bone, dfl feet In length, recently was unearthed ' along the hnnks of the Deer river in Albertn. according to information received here from A. .1. Oavfe, divisional engineer of the Canadian National railway. Mr. Gayfe says the bone Is thought to be part of the skeleton of a dinosaur and an effort will be made to find the other iwrts. Firemen Old the Rest. Bralntree. Mass.--When a • truck load of hay caught fire. Robert Horte calmly drove it to the nearest firealarm h<>*. pulled the alarm and waited. The firemen did the rest. SEEKS TO CUT LIVING COST Freer imports. Restricted Exports Qooiirttrirf by French Cabinet V«;/. ...'«s Solution. . /• " Parts.--The French government Is considering the problem of the high cos^ of living and the cabinet took ap the question at its meeting. According to the Echo de Paris the government Js considering the Issuance of the decree opesdng the frontiers immediately for the import of necessary raw materials. The Figaro says the government Is discussing tjie prohibition of the export of certain foodstuffs, such as butter, eggs and cheese. Other newspapers say the government will propose a law inflicting very severe penalties on food speculators. The proposal to end mortial law. which has been in effect since the beginning of the war. was discussed H the chamber of de>pt!tles r German exi»erimeiiters have made a "stile from the fiber of a plant similar tbe North American cat tatt. Fight Alaska Fish Pirates Submarine Chasers Patrol Ports to Protect Property of Fiahjng Companies. Juneau. Alaska.--Submarine chasers under the direction of Gov. Thomas Uiggs, Jr.. are patrolling the fishing ports to protect the fishing companies' property from fish pirates. Pirates opened fire upon one of the tenders of the Thlinket Packing company/ according to a wirel^s message received by Governor Riggsr The tender gave chase but the pirates escaped. KEEP JAIL ARTIST'S WORK Dough and 8oap Dummy Head Left hindl In Sing 8ing Is Se.irt - • « ; • • t o M u s e u m ^ ' r - - ; - ' Yonkers. N. Y.--After'belnrr ally photographed, the Ingenious "dummy" John McAllister. Sing-Sing's artist twrglar, teft beMlMi Ijjim we «wee» down." he escaped, was'added to the prlaas museum. The head was molded of soap and dough. He used his talents pot alone to mold It with features copied after his own, but he covered it with hair from his own scalp and stuck on more hair where the eyelashes belong. With his brush he painted a complexion. In the habit of wearing black sleeveholders when he plied his brush paint ing or deigning, he completed the deception by putting thetn op the. dum my's arms. . , - - • Find Ocean Dusty. New York.--Is the ocean dusty J Marines aboard the U. S. S. Pennsylvania, now in port here, will say it is. "The salt in the air crystallizes on the decks and bulkheads,"' Oorporal William H. Allen explained to a reporter. "It Is then'ground under foot and becomes dusty, so that, although we throw overboard a couple of cans of dust, there is the same amount the ti'tt ,**1tS /j ^Such tender .bits of fine meat--such careful season- • ing! One taste of Libby' s Vieana Sausage, served / piping hot, will tell yo'i it was prepared by master : chefs! Ask your grocer for a package today. Contents will serve two. ' - Libby, M?NeiB a Libby, Chicag# : mmatwmmiimimi.'mimimmm Must Have Looked Prosperous. "Taxi, sir?" "N6 but thank yotl for the compliment."-- Boston Transcript. Cranky. "Has your cook been with you long!" "With us? She's been against «S almost from the start." ww•'piglll 4 Desftftr* its scooter Company is a business of infinite details, requiring infinite .Vi attention. il Experienced men must know livestock buying with a knowl- ^ edge of weight, price, the amount t ^ and quality of meat the live ^ v . animals will yield. Bach manufacturing operation must , 1 be done with expert skill and scientific • precision. A highly perishable product must be handled with speed and care to avoid loss. - ^ Chemists, engineers, accountants, and other specialists are required to take care of our intricate problems. Alert wisdom and judgment must; be used in getting stocks of goods into the open channels of demand through our four hundred branch houses. Branch house organizations must, show activity and energy to sell at the market in the face of acute competition from other large uaA . hundreds of small ones. ..« I All these requirements of intelligence, loyalty, devotion to the task, are met in the personnel of Swift & Company. Yet the profit is only a fraction of a cent, per pound with costs at minimum. How can the workings of this delicate human mechanism b» improved ' upon? Do you believe that Government direction would add to our efficiency or improve the service rendered the prosper aqcfl ^pnsti^^r ? 1 -mi " .¥l< 4 Let ua send you a Swift "Dollar". It will interest you. Address Swift ft Company, Union Stock Yards, Chicago, I1L ; M Swift & Company, U.S. A. pWsiaiiirt&nKJ [72.96% / ss% RSbtkJluter/ OA VvgK e. % o o o THIS SH0\ R WHAT BECOMES Of THE AVERAGE OOUA» RECEIVED BY fSWIFT & COMPANY' TROM THE SAIE OF MEAT ano 8> raocucis •5 C f NT5 I S •'»'2 FOR TN£ LIVE ANIMAL lt.»C CENTS FOR LAM* IXPtNSES ANO FREIGHT 2.04 CENT S REMAINS WITH SWIFT & COMPANY AS MOriT '•M Wesiern CuiaJU isasiuafttahteas&un In Western Canada Grain Growing Is a profit maker. Raising CalMv Sheep and Hoes brings certain success. It's easy to prosper when? fw can raise 20 to 45 buu of wheat to the acre and buy on easy lcra% Land at $15 to $30 Per Acre -~Good Grazing Land at Much Less. Railway and Laad Cownwrnif offer naoraal laducas--of to tas» jni to aettle ui W--tarn Canada and enjoy her prosperity. Loam mad* ' tor the purchase of stock or other farming requir«mects can be had at low iotwaat. 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