Kawartha Lakes Public Library Digital Archive

Fenelon Falls Gazette, 26 Apr 1889, p. 9

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HOME DBBSBMAKIFG. Thin white or colored dress goods, cash- mere. India silk, albatross, surah. lace, etc , may be stylishly arranged after Figure No 79, which has a half low round neck and shirrings in several rows around the Fro. 77. waist of the round bodice, which is cut in one with the straight skirt. and thus con- fined at the waistline, a cluster of ribbon loops and ends ornamenting the right side. The neck is finished with a knife-pleating of the material or of lace, sewed on the wrong side and turned over on the right, with bows of ribbon on each shoulder. The sleeves are tiny pufl's gathered into the arm sizes and narrow bands. A velvet dog- collar is a pretty finish to such girlish toi- lettrs. with a small pendent or fancy buckle in front. Round waists promise to be greatly worn, whether of silk, woolen or cotton fabrics. Belts and buckles, a ribbon tied on one side, or the wide soft Empire sash so often described, are worn thh the above waists, which set better if out long enough to slip beneath the skirt band. The neck is finish- Flo. 75. ed with a turned over or standing irill, a high collar. or may be left slightly V-shaped in front. The sleeves are usually full at the top even if plain at the wrists. Figure No. 81 shows a fashionable model for striped or plain woolen gowns, that are so simp e in arrangement that the veriest novice in dressmaking need not fear attempt- ing one. The back and sides are full and straight, while the front is cut a trifle longer and draped in a few pleats at the top to break the otherwise straight cutline. The pointed basque is very short, with a velvet vest in Breton style, sewed down on one side and hooked under the dress front. on the other, with a high collar and pointed ends to correspond. At the front point is a rosette of ribbon like the long ends and loops on the right side. «.Aafi skaâ€"u-.. Fro. 81. FIG. 84. The sleeves have the new effect of a drap- ed scarf at the top, though the fullness is cut in one with the coat sleeve, gathered over the shoulder, and pleated on the sides. When skirts are of woolen goods, there is the usual lining beneath, fitted with two very short reeds, and finished on the edge with a facing and narrow protective pleating, which are entirely concealed. If made of cotton fabrics a skirt lining is not necessary, and the velvet collar, cuffs and vest may be replaced by embroid- o with ribbon decorations as illustrated. draped or flat front, should be from 3§ to 3 3 yards wide Figure No 80 illustrates one of the hand- some cashmere embroidered "robe.' dresses which is entirely self trimmed. The round waist is shined 'o a yoke (see Pattern No 4178. this issue), of the embroidery and is slipped beneath the skirt belt. which in turn is hidden by a ribbon tied on the left. The sleeves are full at the top, with cuffs of the silk and tinsel embroidery. as is the collar. The skirt has a full back and right side with the left side showing an embroidered , the right side when the material is the same design outlined by rwo tapering revere of the narrow embroidery. The front laps over this side and sets quite flatly tothe figure, though arranged with a few gathers at the top. Apretty "baby" waist is represented in Fro. 80. Figure No. 82, which is appropriate for any of the materials usually selected for young ladies’ evening dresses.’ The low neck is slightly V shaped, with the fullness gath- ered to a narrow band and belt. Folds of the material are then draped around the neck and caught with bows on the shoulders and in the centre, back and front. The sleeves are puffed, and tied around with ribbons corresponding with the belt, and cluster of loops and ends hanging on the right side. Slightly V-shaped dress necks are quaint- ly finished with a lace frill or a rufile of the dress material edged with lace, which stands erect against the neck, and is caught to- FrG. 83. gather at the end of the opening with a lin-. gerie pin or dainty flower. Another round waist is shown in Figure at the belt over a tight lining having darts as usual The high collar and tab down the front No. 83. which is made with a close-fitting back, having side forms and a loose front laid in pleats on the shoulders and gathered are of velvet, cord passementerie, or em- broidery, according to the material selected. The belt is also a matter of taste and fancy, and the sleeves are gathered top and bottom, with wrist-bands of the trimming. Sew tapes in basques to hang them up by in the arm-sizes just at the point of the side Fro. 76. form seam. Basques, wraps, and jackets keep their shape better if hung up on wire shoulder forms, that are about fifteen cents, and of several sizes. Our readers will remember that there are no paper patterns of the designs contained in this department, which are given as a guide to the home dressmaker, and are large enough to copv from when wished. Figure No. 75 illustrates a stylishly sim- ple skirt design that will look well in silk -: certainly sixty inches in width. A few new or woolen materials for the street or house wear. The front is draped in a few pleats at the belt in oroer to give a careless full. ness, and has a box pleated ruche on the lower edge. The back hangs full, with broken folds on each side, formed by clusters of pleats at the top. The lining skirt is of the usual shape, with a small pad hustle and two short reeds. Full. straight backs should be dresses are showing the heme turned up on on both sides. Soft sash belts in Empire style from one side seam to the other are sewed in the seam on one side and hooked over on the other, covering from the be ttom of the waist line to the bust in soft folds that are lightly tacked here and theretoafittedpiece of canvas beneath, which has darts and V’s curving it to the form, is well boned, and sewed in with the silk part. Figure No. 84 is a handsome model for lain material trimmed with rows of ribbon, raid, or the bordered goods now so popular- The material is taken crosswise for the box. pleated front and long, rounding apron that is pleated in the belt and draped high on the hips. The straight, full back has the border or trimming on each side and is hooked up over the basque. The short basque has the trimming for the collar, cuffs, and pointed vest, which is laid in small pleats and buttoned up on each side. A ribbon follows the outline of the basque edge and ties in front. Light cash- meres, trimmed with No. 9 ribbon, are at- tractively fashioned into home dresses after this idea, and a full front may be substitut- ed on the basque if the wearer is of a slen- der figure. White or light colored woolen fabrics, challie, India silk, etc., are dressy enough for small entertainments not at ictly full dress when fashioned after Figur No. 76. The skirt is hemmed and tucked, or hands of ribbon could replace the tucks, while the long apron is cut in one with the low “baby” waist finished with a ribbon binding. The apron is draped high on the left side, and falls straight on the right side. where it is nearly as long as the skirt. The back of the waist is arranged like the front, and is worn over a guimpe having a folded collar, and elbow sleeves tucked crosswise of the dress material, if of silk, or of China crepe, lace, or silk with woolen or silk fabrics. A ribbon tied around the arm, and bowed to the top finishes each sleeve. and a similar how should decorate the side of the collar. The sash of five-inch ribbon encircles the waist, and ties on the left of the front ; if of a slender figure, the wearer might prefer an Empire sash. Figure No. 78 illustrates a jacket basque suitable for general house Wear with half- worn skirts, that always last longer than basques. The material is oldrose cashmere, with collar, cuffs, and belt of green, light shade, velvet matching the dots in the white India silk or veiling plastron, which is gath- ered at the top, laid in uncaught pleats over the usual lining, and held at the waist line by the belt. The outer fronts are fitted with one dart, a little extra fullness cut on each front edge, and then shirred at the neck and waistline ; the back is fitted like a round basque, and the full sleeves are gathered into straight cuffs and at the top. The Directoire style of custom illustrated in Figure No. 77 has the usual coat, which, in this case, is out off at the waist in front, lapped, and held by two large buttons, the, rovers forming a turned-down collar ; gaunt- let cuffs are on the coat sleeves, and the flat V-shaped vest is trimmed with a diagonal band of the bordering, which forms the only trimming. The skirt front preserves the long effect desired, with narrow kilt pleats in the centre and flat panels crossed at the top a little toward the left. So many skirts are trimmed with a slightly one-sided efi'ect that it is important to wear it just as it should be. The centre front must be exactly in the middle, and the surest manner of placing it is to put a few white stitches in the middle of the belt, and guide the eyes by this when putting it on the dress. Skirt fronts trimmed with a Spanish flounce are pleated in the belt sufficiently full to give a graceful fullness. If sleeves are not made after some of the regularly full designs they are coat-shaped, with an extra inch cut on each side of the top, and two inches at the top, so that the additional material is gathered in loose, easy folds, but not the lining, which is of the ordinary shape, around the top of the arm. Redingote rovers of the wide Directoire fashion are handsomer if made by turning the fronts back and facing them, instead of adding extra ones, that so often look stifl'. Amateurs often find the hemmlng of draperies a ditii cult task, as the stitches must be invisible. Baste the hem twice, once for each turning, and measure the sec- ond turning with a piece of card the cor- rect width as you move along. Then use slip-stitches half an inch apart, taking up a thread only of the garment and more of the hem. Slip the work along between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand, so as to keep separating the hem and drapery as you sew, and thus assist in the task of catching up but one thread, and that not through to the right side. With a little patience and time it becomes swift work. Do not press the heme of any drapery. White silk or crepe plastrons on handsome suits are in fichu folds from the shoulders, lapped at the waist line, and finished with a soft belt, V, and collar of a contrasting mat- e’ial. Gauntlet ends are new for Directoire coats and jackets. They are large at the top, open at the back, usually held by a large button at each corner, and areas much like the cuff of a gauntlet glove as can be imagined. Half~worn skirts may be used with a ltcd blouse of striped, printed, or plain fian- nel, that has a round, close fitting lining of French cambric beneath the blouse, which has side forms and full fronts, the latter having narrow tucks on each side, ending at the bust, with a silk featherstitching around the collar, belt, on tho tucks and sleeves that are puffed at the top, tucked to the elbows, and then gathered into bands. Satin surah is recommended as a lining skirt for lace costumes. Accordion-pleated fronts and sides are mm with a full, straigh back or one arranged in three double box- pleets, pressed, not caught in shape. K“ Shall women smoke t" is the latest ques- tion which is troubling the British nation. We say no, decidedly. You can't prevent huh-omflringupoecasimally, butwecau never permit a to smoke. vegetable gardens this spring do not forget the boys and girls. and like to dig in the dirt, and many of enough for them, for if you do they will he- oome discouraged. ments is little and examine catalogues and select a few well known varieties for them- selves, and do not snub them when they ask or in some good agricultural paper interested and you will be surprised at their perhaps some patience and extra BXBI‘llOD. But how great will be the return-for if you tion it will give them a love of nature and out-of-door life that will make men and women of them. Many people sigh because stay on the home farm, but they do not Give the Children a Chance. In planning and laying out flower and Good Things to Come. “Christ. an Birh Priest of ocd thin to come." Heb. s, 11. i s 3‘ Good things to come ! My dear Lord, this is cheering l My Soul is in joy since I heard this sweet Remember that all children love flowers them may have an undeveloped taste for . word; horticulture. Midst earthly mutations I long have been Give each a piece of ground for a garden fearing if you can possibly do so. Let it be in a That Ede would never to earth be restor- good situation, exposed to {$11 sunliglaudand ed,â€" the soil good. Do not t ' a s a e or . . . stray plot where nothing will grow good Th“ 8:281:11 d°mm°ns With WW" {MW‘ That darkness, and doubt, and deception had away,â€" That E-vil's domain o’er the earth was unoeas- ing, And Mortals would never their Maker Allow them to exercise their own judg- questions. Teach them the use of fertilisers °b°y' and show them how to plant the seed. If But 0 l the delight! l That at last 'twillbe they find insects injurious to vegetation better help them to search for the picture and de« Thu, even the but that tbs {mm b“); scription in some good work on the subject known.â€" That Eden was only the type and the letter Of Glory to come, when the light of Thy Throne Shall illumine th' darkness, and banish the error, And cancel the evil, and rectify wrong,â€" When earth shall be pure, and the Heavens shall mirror The rapturous gladness, and ring out the Song In this way they will become happy and aptitude and enthusiasm. It will require do not desire them to follow it as an avoca- tbeir children as they grow older will not Of the sanctified millions, brought in by thy merit.â€" To more than Edenic condition restored,â€" Who, then, all the fulness of Heaven in- make them love it when young. Do not for one moment think because youro hildren happen to be girls that they cann t become good farmers or horticultur late for there are many very successful befitsâ€" . women florists and gardeners, as well as Red‘Eggd by the P “3103 and grace 0‘ “19 those who carry on extensive farms. No. where is a woman’s well~known talent for planning and executing, as well as her good taste, so well applied as in those pursuits. Well do I remember the many happy hours spent 'in the the mrden I was ever allowed to call my own. It was prepared for me because I ruined the best and radish bed by plantian therein hollyhocks and morning glories. I visited it the first thing in the morning and the last at night, and when the tiny green plants first appeared I was supremely happy. I watched and guarded it with jealous care lest any stray dog. cat or a mis- chievous elder brother should disturb it. My dolls had been made to weep sawdust. Old Tabby’s beautiful new kittens had dis- appeared, and I was told they had started on a voyage to China. And I had seen Major, our staid old dog, rush down the road wearing my doll’s best bet and cloak. All this I had borne in silence and choked down my rising auger. But when an attempt was made to enter the sacred precincts of my gardenâ€"well, I do not like to state what happened. The attempt was never repeated, lest, as my brother wisely remark- ed, “ A tigrcss might unexpectedly swoop down on him and mar his beauty." So i was left in peaceful possession and kept well out of mischief all summer. L. A. MORRISON. .___._.â€"â€"â€"â€"-â€" A Fringe of Ribbons. If our girls have a superfluous amount of time and strength which they wish to put to good use let them turn their attention to the charming fringe composed of ribbons, says the Philadelphia I liquirer. The loveliness of a costume can be greatly enhanced by the addition of this graceful and efi'ective trim- ming. For this purpose a band of galloon in the very narrowest width is selected, upon which is sewed in length to suit the fancy, narrow ribbons, close enough to give a full rich effect. The beauty of this novel fringe is much enhanced by using several rows, one above the other, and finishing the upper rows with tiny rosettes. V elvot ribbons will play an important part in summer toilets ;encircllng the skirt in numerous rows, they give a very rich finish. Right here a vast field is opened to the clever girl in the occult makeup of the bswitcbiug bow, which is to be found in so many odd nooks and corners of acharming gown. The laminated ribbons in tinsel em- broidery are exquisite and are one of the striking features in millinery. As insertions they can be used with delightful effect upon gauze-like material, ,__._......__â€"â€"â€"â€" Heroism at Home. How useless our lives seem to us some- times. How we long for an opportunity to perform some great action. We become tired of the routine of home life, and imagine we would be far happier in other scenes. We forget that the world bestows no titles as noble as father, mother, sister or brother. In the sacred precincts of home we have many chances of heroism. The daily acts of self-denial for the good of a loved one, the gentle word of soothing for another's trouble, the care for sick, may all seem as nothing; yet who can tell the good they may accom- plish? Our slightest word may have an in- fluence over another for good or evil. We are daily sowing the seed which will bring forth some sort of harvest. Well will it be for us if the harvest will be one we will be proud to garner. If some one in that dear home can look back in after years. and as he tenderly utters our name, say, “ Her words and example prepared me for a life of useful- ness, to her I owe my present happiness,” we may well say, “ I have not lived in vain."â€" National Presbyterian. And all among my flowers I walked, Like a miser ’mid his treasure ; For that pleasant plot of garden ground W as a world of endless pleasure. The Fashion. There are at least twenty five different and distinct shades of green visible in the great emporia (if fashion this year, ranging from the palest water tints to the deep moss and myrtle shades, all the varying tones dis- played in nature being perfectly reproduced in art. Some of the reseda or gray-green tints are very lovely, and in soft China silks, crepalincs, veilings, and silk muslins, pre- sent a charming appearance. There is a growing taste and liking for these once crude but now beautified shades, which certainly for cool summer wear have much to com- mend them. The price by tho yard of good strong surah, or washing silk, is now so very reasonable that the purchase of enough for a number of silk pctticoats'ic a really useful, economical, as well as elegant investment. These are light, cool, dainty, and save innumerable washing bills during the summer. These skirts are not expensive, considering the fu ture expenditure they save, even when bought on tright at the drapers' shops; but they can be easily made at home for less cost, with the aid of a gracoful, well fitting gored skirt pattern. These supple, unstarc‘u- ed petticoats are for better suited to wear beneath the straight, undrapcd gowns of the present mode than the lace trimmed and heavily embroidered styles in muslin and lace. Every lady should be the owner of at least four of these skirtsâ€"one in black silk, devoid of fripperics of any sort, this for street wear ; two in white, to put on alter- nately with the pretty summer afternoon and evening house dresses, and a fourth one, also white or delicately tinted, this domi- trainzd for dressy use, to accompany the Princesse, Greek, or other evening toilet. White muslin shirts that bear the weekly crucible of the laundry are, of course, the only choice for morning wear. There is a radical and sudden change in- headgear, a collapse which produces a feel- ing of a tornado having passed, sweeping all towering objects before devastating fury. This entirely upsets preconcieved notions fostered by familiarity with a style wholly dissimilar to that now presented to us. There is a Quaker-like, rigid simplicity, a goneness, about the depressed sattdown-u n looking shapes, which, in contrast tow at has become so familiar to our eyes, look dowdy and unfinished in the extreme. As one views the magnificent and marvellous creatures of fashion as they rapidly present themselves both in shop and alien, the most casual observer can but note that the taste ' for novelty is a growing one, and that com- petition in production is already so exces- sive that human ingenuity is taxed to its utmost to provide novelty which will have the power to distant: sliprevious attractions; for as people become satiated they become more and more difficult to please, and what in very many instances satisfies them is not so much that which really suits their indivi- dual tastc or fancy as somethingabsolutely different from thatwhich they or their friends have admired and adopted before. Conse. quently there is an unending search and reaching out for something new under the sun, which is a state and spirit to be deplor- ed and fought against, if one did not reflect that this very demand for chan e, and the inoeasant,“give, give" from the i is and the bored is just what inspires the inventor, aids and animatea the mauafacturer, and puts bread into the mouth and a roof over the head of the employs and the labour- er.â€"i N. Y. Evening Pom] Awful Fate of Two Children. A wagon with loading has arrived at East Darr Station, Queensland, from Barcaldine, and the driver reports 1ho following terrible tragedy : A man accompanied by his wife and two children, aged 3 years and 1 year, had pitched a tent on the river bank. The first night the father was awakened by hear- ing one of the children moaning. Ho lit a candle and found the girl apparently in a fit, and she died in a few minutes. She was buried on the spot next day. The in- fant child was placed in the bed previously occupied by the deceased the next night, when the parents were again awakened by the child moaning. The father immediately struck a light and saw a large brown snake gliding oil" the infant’s breast. The child also diod in great agony in a few minutes. Some carriers came and discovered the snake’s hole under the tent. Digging down they quickly unearthed and killed the reptile. Late Advice. A middle-aged colored woman, who oc- casionally worked for a lady in an Eastern city, one day informed her employer that she could not do any more work for her, as she intended “gettin’ mah'ied." “indeed!” exclaimed the lady. are going to be married!” "Yes’m, I is, fo' sartain." "Well, I hope, Rosa, thatyou have given the matter careful consideration?" “Yes'm.” Finding her in a resoeptive mood, the lady thought it an excellent time to give some advice on the subject of matri many, and she improved the occasion. Bo sa lis- tened patiently, and then said: “Dat’s so, lady, dat'a sol i tell yo' dis gettin‘ mah'ied aint no trifliu’ b usiness. l’se been mah'ied fo times already myself, lady, en 1 knows dat w‘at you done say is a solemn tac'." “To you Anzlomsniace- Algyâ€"“ Cholly, what makes you so sad this mawning. me boy?" " Haven't you weally heard the howible news, Algy?" Algy-“Naw.” Chollyâ€"“ Our darling Pwlnce is sick. He has a boil on his neck." Algyâ€"“ Aboil 2 Be jswveâ€"d’ye know how to make one. We positively must not go out till wahave at least put a position I on to keep up appearances, anyhow "‘ ‘VV-‘x. sin-1‘ ’o:,~rt.ir‘.r';,., . A... . _ .,._..._~_ .._â€"-â€"..â€"â€"._. ._.. ...... .;. _.......... .,._._ A” , .‘ ._, l Agglgg (3. 3:... . “5.3.3-2.-.-

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