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____________________â€"â€"â€"-â€"-â€"â€"â€"â€"â€"â€"â€"â€"-â€" H013 DRESBHAKIE G. An excellent manner of remodeling'a half- worn basquels shown in Figure No. The_bodioe is out ofito form a round waist V Fro. 58 and revere turned back, facing them with velvet or silk, or using the dress material, striped with narrow ribbon. The vast is pf a contrasting material, and either fastens in Breton style or books invisibly. The ccat sleeves have cuffs of the vest fabric, and the worn part under the arm ishidden by a draped scarf, formed of a straight or bias iece. Aribbon belt or Empire sash may worn. . A pretty fashion for trimming white or wlored cotton dresses is to use large Incroy- able revers of wide embroidered edging on the front of the round waist, turn-back cuffs of the same, and a turn over collar cot with two points in front and three in the back, the centre one forming quite aV. If a straight, round skirt is worn, it may have a row of insertion set in above the hem. Figure No. 59 shows a neat style for two woolen or cotton fabrics. The skirt, belt from the side seams, cuffs, plastrcn, and V. Fm. 59 in the back are of plaid, striped, or figured materials. The polonaise has a coat back in nrincesse style, with the fronts cut off to the waist line. The apron is only slightly draped, showing the skirt on the sides ; the sleeves are coat-shaped, and the pleated plastron is almost covered by the j abet cra- m of crepe, silk, lace, or mull, as it may The protective pleating is rarely put on the edge of skirts nowadays. Man of the best modistes are binding skirts wit a cord ing of velvet, in place of braid, which rubs the shoes inabby and soon wears out. Silesia as a facing over canvas wears long- er thsn alpaca. New skirts are two and three quarter yards wide, with a small pad hustle and one reed. Hems are about five inches wide. Insertions that are set in full, round skirts are generally two inches wide and three in number, with an inch of the goods between. Figure No. 60 illustrates a sleeve suit- Fio . 60 able for any thin or soft goods that drapes gracefully. The d is out like a coat sleeve, only lar longer in the back at the wrist. t is caught up in three tiny pleats at the inside scam, and a deep band end attached. The top is gathered, and a standing frill of lace added, which erect over the shoulder like a ruff, though it is easily omitted, if preferrei. Accordion pleating requires three times as much material as the space to be covered by the narrow knife‘pleata. A new skirt back has one width of silk gathered in the centre back, and a width on each side laid in kilt pleats, turned toward the back, and held in place by tapes loosely tacked be- neath Figure No. 6i shows a style of basque especially becoming to a slender form. The back is cut in a rounded point, which may rest under the skirt back, so often booked up over the bodice. or on the outside. The fronts form a cutaway jscket ornamented with rovers of the material, outlined with a velvet edgirc. The vest hooks, and has a edge of Empire sides of the soft, wide nah. NW had. of embroidery finhh the ioned one remodels stylishly after thif The round,full,cottouwaistsnewfashion- bodice fronts, and trim the When the £10. 61 short, wide Directoire revere are lapped over the bust, they are styled Incrcyable. The designs in this department are not given as patterns unless for Sime special reason, but many of the "Home Dress- making" designs can be moddied from different Domestic patterns by using a little in enuity. . ucked fronts are handsome on skirts of any material. The lengthwise tucks are run by hand. and are from a half-inch to an inch in width. reaching from the waist to the knees, and then flare like a raffle below. A trifle more than twice and a half as much of the material than the space to be covered is required, as the edges of the tucks do not touch each other. Panels in this style are effective with a flat front of contrasting goods, or one slightly draped at the top. ' Kilt or box pleated panels of India or thin silk should be lined with eleszy orinoline be- fore they are pleated. Straight, full backs of thin silk skirts are made to look as though of richer silk, if lined with undress- ed cambric and interlined with one layer of sheet wedding, which is to be lightly tucked here and there to the cambric to prevent any sagging, the wadding ending at the edge of the hem. Figure No. 62 answers for any ordinary cotton or woolen goods, two materials ap- pelring better than one. Striped and plain FIG. 62 cheviots are shown in shades of gray, with steel buttons for the simple trimming. Such a combination Would be excellent for a traveling dress. The plain goods forms the full, straight back, right side, and apron, the latter roundinor up on the left, where it is draped to form short jabot folds. The striped material is used for the front and left side of the shirt. The bodice has cufi'i, collar, ves , and Fm. 63 wide sash belt of the plain fabric, a nd fas tens lnBretcn style, sewed down on one side of the front, and hooked over on the other. The back is gracefully rounded, or may be pointed, and the centre seam,left open to the waist line. ' Figure N o. 63 efiers a dressy model trim. .. ar~;"x. W - w ifa'.v£"..."s ,. able aremade with bag seams to prevent any scratching on the flesh. Tight fitting waists are lined with the thinnest of muslin, cambric, or Victoria lawn, and good-aired seams should be left, as all cotton goods will shrink, and have to be let out. If shrunk before making up, the pretty ginghams soon soil. and never seem as fresh to the wearer as they do when first mac’ a up untouched by water. Straight cotton skirts, intended for house wear seldom have the lower edge disfigured by a braid. Either put three inch tucks above the hem of gingham skirts, or turn in an inch or so at the top, so as to have some to let down if it becomes short from shrink- ing. Pockets in such skirts should, of course, be sewed in one of the straight .eams, faced inside with the goods, and it stayed " from the belt with a tape to prevent sagging. Figure No. 67 illustrates one of the leak» ionahly full sleeves, now worn of every material. This is of an ordinary coat-shape, out large enough to lay in three pleats to- ward the back from the shouller to the wrists, with a band of fur (in its season). passementerie, galloon, ribbon, etc.. four inches above the edge to imitate a cuff. At the top is draped a puff, which is gathered in the arm siza, drawn down toward the elbow, and ended under a bow of ribbon, or paseementerie ornament. w LATE SCOTCH NEWS. The rivers in Dumfries district are to be stocked with troutâ€"a cross between the Loch Leven and Loch Skene trout. The Leith bakers have reduced the price of bread to sixpence for the best4lb. loaf and 5:1 for second quality, a reduction of d. a The Royal Botanic Garden, Edinburgh, opened on the 7th for the first time on aSunday when it was visited by 1746 people. The Glasgow “Mail” says: Daring the last month or six weeks a very general epidemic of measles has preVailed in Airdrie, Coatbridge, and surrounding villages, and in most cases the measles seem to be of a had type. In Airdrie and Poatbridge the schoolchildren have been warned not to attend if measles is in their homes. Six deaths have occurred during the last "month in Airdrie, seve_al have proved fatal cases in Coatbridge, and five and seven are reâ€" ported dead from Bailleston and Glenboig within the last week or two. Some of the schools have had to be closed. Euteric cfever and diphtheria also numb-2r several ace: in Airdrie and Coatbridge. The returns for the last quarter show a considerable increase in the foreign ship- ping tradc of the Clyde not only when com- FIG. 65 design. The back forms one and the front two points, with revers and coat sleeves. The square. cut vest is of brocade or strips ed goods, and the turned-back cuffs are 0- the same fabric. A deep knife-pleating is -rs, but with the corresponding periods of proceeding years. Last quarter 358 vessels, aggregating 338 592 tons, arrived in the Clyde from foreign ports, showing an in- crease of 7000 tons on the preceding quarter, and of 33,000 tons compared with the cor- responding quarter of last year, cl 42 000 tons against the same quarter of 1887, and of 48,000 tons contrasted with the first quarter of1856 The sailings last quarter also show considerable increase on those of the corresponding quarters of recent years. Last quarter 371 vessels, aggregating 397~ 956, tons, left the Clyde, an increase of 7060 tons on the corresponding period of last year, of 63 000 tons over that of 1887, and of 97,000 tons over the first quarter of 1886. News was received recently from May Island Lighthouse, Firth of Forth, that on FIG. 66 set under the lower edge of the basque and sleeves, and two rows form the French col- lar ; the upper row is sewed to the top of a straight collar, and turned over on the right side. Figure No. 64 is appropriate for any two ordinary materials 0 contrasting colors, or usual experience. A foreign seaman smash- ed cne of the windows of the lighthouse, and pushed a buy into the apartment, fol- lowing immediately himself. In the room several females were sleeping, and these at once raised an alarm. The keepers soon appeared, and the semen explained that he was the captain of a Norwegian schooner which had just been dashed to pieces on the island. His vessel was bound from Norway to Grangemouth, with battens, but he lost his way, and did not, owing to the rain and fog, see the light on May Island. When the vessel struck he and his companion kept upon the rocks. The mate followed, but was drowned, as were also the other members of the crew. One of the lighthouse keepers went out to learn if he could aid the missing men, and in the darkness he fell over a cliff 20 feet high, breaking several of his ribs, Medical aid was sent to the Is- land. On April 6 :he two survivors of the wreck were landed at Leish, where they are now in the Sailors' Home. -â€"â€"â€"â€".â€"-.-â€"_ No Room for the Uhinese. There is a little question under discussion between Australia and China which is of FIG. 67 plain and brocaded or striped goods. The high collar, coat sleeves, and sham skirt are of the figured or darker material. The plain round waist hooks invisilily, and is worn with an Empire sash of ribbon about four inches wide, which is passed through a buckle in front, and then allowed to fallin ends and loops. The drapery is straight and round, with a funnel pleat on the left side, and two Arab folds dropping from the back of the belt. Such a drapery pared with the immediately preceding quart- l the previous night the keepers had an un-' should be about three and a half yards in width. Flgurech. 65 is a charmin designfor cot- ton cr woolen bordered or p ain materials. If of the latter, rows of silk or velvet trimning may be used as a trimming in place of the woven border illustrated. The round skirt is all htly lifted on the right side to show the 31am skirt beneath, and the left side is trimmed with a row of the border put on length-wise. The basque has the skirt hooked up over the back, and the front slightly pointed. The llnin is fitted with darts as usual, while the oulsi e fronts are bordered, lapped, and laid in close overlapping pleats at the lower edge. The slender V thus left may be of either goods, embroidery, silk, or velvet, according to the dress fabric used. The collar and band cuff: are of the border, and the sleeves are slighin failed at the arm- sizes and in the cuffs. Full, straight skirts of gingham, lawn, and other wash dresses do not need a sham skirt beneath. Sateen. challie, India silk, cashmere, and others hang better over the usual lining skirt. Embroidered goods do not needas full a skirt as plain material does. Four and a half yards is the smallest allowance for a stylishly full, round skirt. A handsome dinner or theatre carnage is represented in Figure No. 66 Velvet, silk, broche, tinsel, bead, or some of the “ real " laces form the dressy garment. The back is cut in a round point, and the front opens over a low vest of one of the above-mentioned trimmings, laid over plain colored silk. The Medici collar ends in tapering revere, islined with the contrasting silk, edged with lace, and wired to keep it properly erect. Gold lace, white faille Francoise, and colored broche make an elegant corsage of this descri ticn. The coat sleeves have slender V and collar of the velvet matching med with the latest “fad,” in the way If Dam of the silk at the wrists and shoulders. the pointed cuff. Three large buttons trim a knifopleatin of silk. The basque may be The hair is dressed with a white pcmpon and either si ‘29 of the front below the revere. of woolen or si materials, and an old-fash. aigrettcs. considerable interest to British Columbia, and in fact to Canada generally. ship loaded with Chinese emigrants arrived at Melbourne and a demand was made that‘ the Chinese should be allowed to land. The Australian authorities refused the Chinese a landing. The refusal was reported by the Chinese Minister to the English Govern ment, accompanied by a demand for the pa ment of a sum of money in consideration of avin denied the Chinese a privilege accords to other nations and based upon treaty ri hts. The English Minister intim- ated to t 0 Australian authorities that an easy way out of the controversy would be to pay the bill. In the communication of the English Minister to the Colonial authorities a passage was quoted from the Chinese Min- ister's letter to the effect that the Chinese would no longer submit to the action of the United States in disregarding treaty obli~ gations. The Chinese Government was waiting to see what the courts would do, and if the courts failed to enforce the treaty the Chinese Government would then consider what course to pursue. We are thinking the Chinese government had better take as long a time as takes to quarrel with England and the United Suites at one and the same time, its hands will be pretty full. â€"â€"â€"â€"â€".-â€"_â€"__. The public will highly approve the deci- sion of the Educatlln Department to allow an examination in Temperance and hygiene to be taken at the December eXamination for entrance to High Schools as bonus sub. jccts, on the same basis as agriculture. The maximum of marks to be allowed is 75. A Minnesota man has set up a bear ranch, where he feeds cornmeal to the bears he traps, in: as he would do bogs, till the are in prime condition, when he alaug tcrs them, and, besides selling the meat at high figures, gets a stood mmy dollars for each of the pelts. A steamn P0"? sible to consider its course for if it under-, Cruel and fiendish 3 Our readers will call to mind an ex- traordinary marriage, which was said to have been celebrated in a sleigh in this citv, im. modiatcly followed by the death of thegrooi'n a Mr. Ralph B. Husson, of Brighton, Eng- land. The story was to the ed'sct that Hus- son, who had been living in Canada, became engaged to a Miss Mulcahy, of this on y,re- tcrnedtoEnglaud, and becoming suicusly ill, came out with his father and a clergy- man, and the lovers were married upon the party‘s arrival. This was in substance the story related by Mrs. Mulcahy. the mother of the young woman who was alleged to have become a bride and widow within the same hour. The local newspapers published columns of detail, but no one could be found to tell what had been done with the body of the young Englishman, and a good many un- pleasant ibings had been said and insinuat- ed with reference to the condition of the young lady who was the most interested in the case. The matter was allowed to drop, and there appeared to be very few who desired to continue the investigation. The poor girl’s father, who was a ccmpcsi~ tor in the Gsuatte office, took the matter so much to heart that he threw up his situa. ticn and went to Chicago, while the family are still living in Montreal. THE REVOL’I‘ING FACTS It now remains to glve the true version of the story, which has been obtained after an endless amount of research and investiga. ticn, and it will be seen that Miss Mulcahy has been made the victim of one of the most cruel and wicked jokes ever perpetrated in this or any other community. The facts of l the case are as follows; Mr. Hussou was lIlO myrth, and not only did be heard in a house on Bleury street, but paid frequent visits to the Mulcahy household, where he was received with great favor by the eldest daughter. It seems that the young gentle- man from Brighton, previous to his depart~ ' ure for the Old Country, had made known his intentions of marrying Miss Mulcahy at a future date to a number of medical stud- ents. At a subsequent date, however, to Hueson’s sailing for home these embryo doctors resolved to perpetrate a hoax on the young woman. THEY DID IT wrmr A vna‘onssca. On a Monday morning Mrs. Mulcahy re- ceived a note from a friend, saying that her presence was required at once. No sooner Iliad the good lady left her home than a ' second messenger entered bearing a note for Miss Mulcahy, entreating that lady to repair at once to a well-known hotel in the city, ' where business of the utmost importance to I herself had to be transacted. The young ' lady at first decided to await her mother’s return, but at the earnest eutreaty of a l second party she put on her hat and sacque and went directly to the place indicated in the note. A gentleman woll muflled up, with powdered locks, met the excited girl ' at the door of the hotel and said: “I am Mr. Husson, senior. My son, who grew gradually worse after coming home, has ex- . pressed a desire to become your husband before he dies.” MARRIED TO A CUBPSE. “We have just arrived, and both he and s. clergyman are in the covered sleigh at the door." hat could the lady do but comply? -, So she into the sleigh, where she saw the form of a man, whose headwas complete! i wrapped up and only the mouth, from whic , blood was streaming, appeared to be visible. ,The hand,which was placed in that or the supposed bride, was coil and clammy, and l it is by no means surprising that Miss Mul- l cahy felt her surroundings to be stran e and mysterious. The clergymau's port on of ' the heartless scheme was soon accomplished, l and as soon as the girl realized that she was 2 Husson's wife they informed her that she ‘ was also a widow. The supposed father-in- law then told her that he would take her I; to England upon his return, but she would 'not hear to this, and was let out of the 5 sleigh at Victoria square, and going at once ‘ to her home on St. Eiward street told her astonished mother all that had transpired. Both, however, had been wilfully deceived. , The participants in the mock cermouy were é nothing more than young medicos from one of our leading universities, and the supposed i dying lever was a corpse which had been stolen from the dissecting room. ’ The Czar and the Fortune Teller. l A strange story is going the round of the A Continental papers, to the following shot i â€"-Some twen years ago the present Czar, at that time sir-apparent to the Russian , throne, had his fortune told by a gypsy wo- lman whom he met by accident while out gsbccting. The gypsy, totally unaware of ’her casual clients exalted rank, ex Amined the palm of his hand secundum artem, and prophesied many things to himâ€"among others, that he should not outlive his forty- sixth birthday. It is stated that all he ‘ other forecasts have been realized, one after another, greatly to the disquietude of Alex~ ander Alexandrovicb who is notoriously superstitious. The Czir entered upon his forty-filth year on the lO:h ult., and has a - peared to suffer from a more than usua y severe depression of spirits since his birthday anniversary. His consort, whose health has been delicate for some time past, is said to be deeply distressed by the gloomy state of the Emperor’s mind, brought about byebroodlng over the gypsy’s dismal pro- p cy. The Czar should take comfort from the complete failure of a similar vatlcination made to Prince Bismarck. when the German . Chancellor was Prussian Minister at Frank- fort. A prophetess of renown then foretold that his sixty-sixth year would prove fatal to him, and her prophecy caused ,him no in- considerable anxiety until it was ooufuted by time. The fact that Prince Bismarck yesterday celebrated his seventy-fourth natal anniversary should be fraught with cheerful augury to the Colossus of the North. â€"[S:. James’ Gszatto. Immigration from Euland. Orrst May 9 --Lstters have been re- ceived by the Government from well-inform- ed ccrrespcndchts in the south-west of Eng- land to the effect that in addition to the general falling cfl'iu emigration from Great British to America, which has been noticed this spring, Canada being included in the decline, there is a special falling ofl‘ in the bookings from Liverpool by the direct Canes diau lines, for the reason that the through rates to Canada via New York are about the same as by the direct Cicadlan lines, and constquently emigrants are choosing the fast steamers in preference to the slower ones on the Canadian route. This is proof punitive that a fast line of steamers has become an important factor in the competition for carry. ing emigrants to our shores. I . g4~r44v0fla5Â¥mfith » x): , -v .