"O i Hobos DBESBIIAKIEG. Vyartly worn basque may be rentvatedt or‘a plain one be made into a dressy gar- ment, by adding a lace and silk muslin gar- niture shown in Figure No. 54. A straight fees of silk muslin, 4-3 inches in length, is aided round the neck, as illustrated, in loose pleats that are tapered in at the we st, and then fail for so. A row of lace trims the entire edge, and insertiouisaet in at the bottom of the V- shaped neck before the muslin is pleated. The sleeves should be ï¬nished with a lace frill, which is sewed in so as to be fuller and wider toward the back. Wash goods have the round, full waist gathered and lap ed front and back, or at the front only. he V is of embroidery or FIG. 55 goods. One rovers down the lapping side is worn. The round, turned-over frill of lace or embroidery on the rock and sleeves has Just can ht public favor at its flood. Straight gather skirts of cotton goods are not lined. A white skirt having stiï¬ly starched ruiiies up the entire back should be worn with a cotton gown. Figure No. 55 illustrates a blouse bodice FIG 50 suitable for cotton, tennis flannel, surah, of light-weight woolen goods. The back is out like an ordinary loose waist, while the front is represented with a pointed yoke of folds from the shoulder-seams on either side of a V' of embroidery, with a collar to match. The lower portion of the fronts is gathered on the yoke, forming an erect r1: tile, and worn with a belt, leaving the basque part outside of the skirt. The sleeves are gathered at the shoulders, and into cuff bands of em- broidery. Figured woolen goods, surah, and em- broidery galloon are illustrated in Figure No. 56 though plain and ï¬gured India silk or woolen material would afford a hand- some combination. The front and right side of the skirt are of the silk laid in kilt pleats, with a full straight back, and the left side partly crossing the front of the woolen fabric. The round waist fastens invisibly, and has the right side and collar completely covered with embroidery, while the left front is full from the shoulder and lapped over the waist line under a girdle belt of the embroidery. The sleeves are full at the top, and have cuffs of the gallcon em- broidery. Pro. 57 The lace trimming shown in Figure No. 57 answers either for a pointed or round basque. with long or short sleeves. Lace about four inches wide forms a round col. lar and epaulet on the right shoulder, with a dra of lace not or silk muslin, edged with sea down the front and over to the ht hip. co efNo.12 ribbon are placed at the neck, ailing over the bust where the drapery ends, over on the right side, and a ho w a somewhat longer on the right side and the waistline. Flowers are interspersed among the ribbons to brighten the dressy eï¬ect. The morning robe shown in ï¬gure No 58 is appropriate for Valencienes lace and nainsook cr India silk, or the lace on the skirt might be omitted, and a neat gown be FIG. 58 made of cashmere. The guimpe may be of velvet‘ plain or tucked nainsook, surah, or embroidery, according to the material select- ed, snd this is made on a close-ï¬tting lining, with the low baby waist worn over it. The latter has gathers at the top and waist cen- tre, front and back with full sleeves and lace frills. The straight gathered skirt is four yards and a half wide, and is worn over the waist, which is out long enough to thrust beneath the belt. Aribbou belt is worn, and tied on the left side. Straight skirts are varied by having a Grecian-draped front, which is shown in this issue in pattern No. 4306. side pleats, Spanish ï¬ouuoe fronts or deep shirrings over the front and sides at the top, making them in strai ht rows or deep Vandykes. The cot of the front and sides may be ï¬nished with a box-pleated ruche, a ath- ered frill of silk, lace, or the dress fa rio; and the old fashion of leaf or square tabs of the material over a tiny flounce of lace has been regived for Empire gowns. Figure No. 59 is one of those standard designs that are always in fashion for cot- ton, flannel, cloth, or cheviot exery-day gowns. The belted blouse has three tiny folds down either side of the front, and a plain back. with a high collar, coat sleeves and belt of the dress goods. The full skirt has the sides and back laidâ€"not caught downâ€"in kilt pleats, the front gathered, out, FIG. 59 caught up there in a shallow funnel pleat. The full Empire waists are out with or without side forms, according to the ï¬gure, only very slender ï¬gures being able to dispense with them. The fronts are without darts, the fullness being shirrod along the shoulder seams and at the waist line, unless a very short basque is worn, and then the fullness ends in close overlapping pleats from the waist line to the edge of the sarment. The lining of the front has the usual darts, and often a sash is folded narrow and laid around this e go so as to outline it before it is tied in the back or at the side. 52E; Figure No. 61 is represented in white and embroidered nainsook, though the design will readily lend itself to silk and woolen combinations. The skirt is arranged in wide kilt pleats, a full gathered back, and flat: front of embroidery over a lining cfjhlthe usrai shape. The round waist hasa plainly ï¬tted back, eon ‘r-a full fronts edged with embroidery and lapped at the waish line, Y of tucks, collar, and ends of embroidery, and le ~o'-mutton sleeves. A ribbon belt is on the aft side. A modiï¬ed style of an Empire waist suit- able in silk, lace, &:.. for evening wear is shown in ï¬gure No. 62, which is arranged with the usual shaped back under folds the those in front, one dart in each front, and folds from the shoulders crossed at the waist line,leavinga low neck. with a tiny V of lace in frdnt. The pufl’ed sleeves are headed by ribbon bows, apparently holding the folds together. A wide or narrow sash may be worn. Figure No. daillnatratos a useful petti~ are without reeds. Surah, pongee, or mus. lie is used, with frills of lace or the material at the foot. One reed is inserted about seventeen inches below the belt, and the skirt is out like a dress pattern. If of mus- lin, the trimming would be of embroidery, Fro. 62 r and the reed withdrawn for washing. _ for a stout person, a yoke should be ï¬tteda to the top in place of a belt. p Pretty yokes for cotton and ehallie gown < are rounded back and front, and very shot i FIG. 63 ing frill, whichis doubledâ€"not hemmedâ€" at the top. Arevived fashion shows the neck, sleeves, and edge of yoke, ï¬nished with a puff of the fabric, gathered a full on either side, or a box-pleated ruche of lace having the straight edges sewed together before it is pleated. ' The jauinty Dlrectoire gown shone in El re No. 63 t s of cashmere, with cuï¬'s‘ co er, and res of ï¬gured India silk. The gather- ed skir its trimmed across the front and sides with a deep border of embroidery, and a sash bow hangs on the left side. The coat basque has along, narrow back to the foot of the skirt, and jacket fronts having rovers and large buttons. The double-breasted vest also has revere showrng a V of the basque material. are coat shaped, and the whole costume bears the unmistakble Parisian stamp. The measurements of a Parisian-made gown indidate wider skirts, as the lining of this one is 3 yards in width. The front is 27 inches wide at the bottom and 0 Inches at the top ; the gore on either side In 14 inches at the belt, and 23 inches on. the lower edge, and the straight back is 36 inches in width, with a 12 inch reed 13 Inch- es below the belt, and has the tiniest of pad bustles. Handsome skirts have a gathered and pinked silk frill on the inside of the lower edge. Skirts often slip around, and thus lose their desi ed effect, but sewing a hook at the centre rout of the belt, and an eye prevented. . Sash ends, trimmed with trimmed wrth fringe, are cut straight across. The front and sides are frequently ï¬nished on the lower eige with fringe, which falls overa gathered frill of the dress material. A flat border of ribbon, lace insertion, embroidery, gallcon, woven designs, or velvet continue invogue for the front and sides, or fron only, of skirts. Lace basques for stout ï¬gures are made of the lace laid smoothly over the silk lining, with bratelles of three rows of No. 7 ribbon passing over the shoulders and tapering to one row about 2 inches back of the slight point of the bodice, back and front. The sleeves are trimmed with Ice thwiae rows of ribbon to the elbows. he Ulrectoire ruill: on waist: is a gather. ed rudla, three inches deep, of crepe, silk muslin, silk embroidery, or lace, ï¬nely knife. leated or left plain, and sewed down the of the round waist full enough _ d-ed co at to wearwith full, straight skirt! that 509ml 8.3mm Itis usually accompanied with the body portion gathered on a stand-f States. The sleeves W. C. on the corsets, any twisting around may be i l by a turnover collar and cuffs to corre- spond. The full sleeves are shown in many do signs, but the most highly favored one is quite close at the wrists and slightly full at the top. This has coat shaped lining, with the outer material out longer. Then there is a draped sleeve having the foundation cut as usual, with the top part of the outer material of the larger half of the sleeve out longer and wider at the top, which fullness is draped in easy folds over the shoulder, tapering narrotver in the centre. In all cases the top of the sleeve is arranged to gives rounder appearance to the arms and a graceful slope to the shoulders. Hospital. No knife. Book free. 150 Second-Inna. Send for list Momma, Qua w C. H. Mcurcuasa. .\l. 1).. BEAVER LINE STEAMSIIIPSI and TUMOR Specialist. Private No.03 Niagara 31., Buffalo, N. Y. Sailing Weekly between MONTREAL and LIVERPOOL. Saloon Tickets, $40, $50, and 260, Return Tickets, $80, $90 and 8110, according to steamer and accommodation. Intermediate 880, Round Trip Tickets. $60, Steerage, :20. Apply to I]. E. MURRAY, General Manager Canada Skip- Ing Co., I Cusmn lions: Sneaks. Momsah, or Lccal Agents in all Towns and Cities Hamilton LADIES' [lollooo will le-apen SEPTEMBER 4, 1839, with Conservatory of Music added. Mr. Clarence Lucas, of the Paris Conserva- tory, Director : Madame Asher Lucas, pupil of Clara Schumann and Marmcutel. solo plauste. assisted by a strong stat! of experienced teachers. er-Lucas will take a limited number of advanceo pu- pils on the piano. Prof, Martin is Arthirector meets fully equipped. specialist in Music and Art. the Principal. All the other depart- For terms, etc., address A. BURNS, D.D., LL.D. Testimony Everybody Most Believe Have used St. Leon for Indigestion with marked beneï¬t to the suflerers.-G. A. Biscuan, M.D.,62 Isabella St, Toronto. I recommend St. Leon for Indigestion, Consti- pation, or Diarrhca'. â€"J. B. Bannwxx, M. D.. 46 Believe it to be both cura- Aveuue Road. Toronto. I have used St. Leon. five and relreshiug.â€"Rsv. Joux POTIS, D.D. I drink St. Leon and beheve lt possesses all the virtues to purify ani build up the systemâ€"Vans Rev. J. M. LAURENT. “Impossible to overrate its value for internal or ex- ternal use,†so say Doctc rs. THE STâ€" LEON MINERAL WATER OO, TORONTO Tho Poohorihy IMPROVED Automatic Injector " 10,000 in use in Canada ; 25,000 in use in the United They are simple and cost less than other makes, while performing the same work. They start easy at 25 lbt., and wtrk work to 1501bs ; Lift water 18 to 20 ft-, and work from a head as well. Automatic and restarting when current to boiler is broken. Send for circular to main r fï¬ce, Ponbortlly Injector 00,, Detroit Mich Factories Windsor, Can, and Detroit, Mich. Mention this paper. - rum Madame Ash. dud†amouref‘l'RUST Fu DSto Leann: a v ' ONEY ‘ low rate or Inter-u! on â€" class security. Apply to l BEATl'Y, ORADWIOK, BLAOKSTOOK & OAR, Barristers and Solicitors. , Wellington St. cor. Church. (over Bank of Toronto) TORONTO. ONT. OHOIOE FARMS fllR SALE Ill All PARTS Of MANITOBA. Parties wishing to purchase impmved Manhole Farms, from so acre. upwards, with immediate possession. call or write to G. [- MADISON, Xe- Arthur's Block. Main st., Winnipeg. information furnished tree of charge, and settlers assisted to making selection. flONIIY To LO“ Ar Cunaasr Run or lxrsaasr. TH area's?â€" TOILET SOAP COY’S of any Toilet Soap in the country on account of its uni- formly excellent, delicate and frag- rant qualities. Allan Lino Royal Mail Steamship: Salllu during winter from Portland averyThursday and H ax every Saturda to Live 1, and to sum- mer from Quebec every 8a urday to vsrpool, calling at Londonderrv to land mails and passes rs for . Scotland and Ireland' also from Baltimore, v a Ball- [ far and St. John's, 13. a, to Liverpool fortnightly summer months. The steamers of the Glas- ow use sell during winter to end from Haliifax ortland, Boston and Philadelphia: and durlu sum- mer between Gla ow and Montreal weekl ; G asgow and Boston wee _v, and Glasgow and P lladelphta Special accommodation for “Maggy. For freight, passage or other Information apply to A. Schumaeher a 00., Baltimore : S. Cunard 00., Halifax: Shea 1% 00., ï¬t. John's, Nfld.: Wm. Thomp- son 5 Co., St John, N. 13.; Alleuh Oo.. Ohlosgo Love & Alden, New York; If. Bourller, Toronto; Allans, Rue I 00., Quebec; Wm. Brookle. Philadel- phia: B. A Allen Portland Boston Montreal. Provident Life and Live Stook Assoo’n CHIEF OFFICE, ROOM D,AROADE, - TORONTO, CANADA (INGORPORATED-) A MUTUAL BENEFIT ASSOC'N. SOLID INVESTMENTâ€"BB pgyinz to the above Association ONE CENT PER. A , a person aged tweutv-two, and two cents per day a person altod fort v~fcur can secure Five Dollars per week while dlsa led through sickness or accident, also for two and three cents per day, persons a ed as above can secure for their dependents, Five undred Dollars lu event of death. LIVE STOCK O‘VNEBScan provide agalnst loss by death through disease or accident of their stock. at easy rates. Those interested, send torprospcctues, stint Reliable Agents wanted in unrepresented dis- r c s. WILLIAM Jesus. Managing Director. Planers, Matcher-s and Moulders Combined. CIIEAI’EST, THOIEOUGIILY SEINGLE, LATH and VENEER MAOHINES. y. w 0001) RIACIIINES BUILT. POST BAND-SAW, SAWMILLS. blNK-BEbTiNG V ForElcvnting nndConveying ‘ ' . Semi for Sawyer-8' Guido. War-nous Engine Works COMPa/l)‘; Branffard and Wlnmpeg' don‘fcberation 311.155 TORONTO- TEES HOME COMPANY. ovso $8, O OASSEIS AND CAPITAL. SIR. W. P. ROWLAND. President. MACINDKALII, 1 7m. ELLIOT, s. acorns, ,J. u. lament-B. In... 13-..â€... ,. The Novel Stgflddï¬ â€"COALâ€"â€"â€"- This Steve is pre eminently the most successful Coal Cook Stove, Tue Onmvsaa i: has an individuality of we made for it when putliug it on the market. in the market. Like its sister its owu, aud,fulï¬ls every claim It can be ï¬tted with a A water front. Wood linings are supplied for Summer use. MANUFACTURED BY .â€" THE E. 85 C. GURNEYCO.’ (Ld) TORONTO, - ONTARIO.