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r1 ' cvicW of Fashion Picturesqueness is the key of the hour’s fashion. The loose undersleeve, the long clinging lines to house and carriage gowns the dainty frills of lace and chiffon billowing about the feet. the straight front line to the corsage and the “indescribable in- s‘weeping curve to the back give a grace and a distinctly feminine touch that has not been felt so strongly in Fashion‘s realms since the days when men minced daintily in their walk, wore frills at their ‘Wrists, ruf- fled shirt fronts, jeweled buckles at knee and instep and .took snuff with a Beau Brummel flourish. Fashion asserts herself from time to time with a. followâ€"me sort of air, and the whole feminine world is expect- ed to be in a ferment over the post- sibility of some radical revolution in dress. But the one point in fashion which has become a settled conviction this season is the fact that there is very little disturbance in general, and practically very little which is really new beyond the added varieties in de- coration and modes of extravagance. The next and undoubtedly the most conspicuous feature of fashion is the new figure which has developed so amazingly with the new straight- fronted corset. To be sure, it was one of the distinguishing points in style THE NEW CORSET AND FIGURE. during thé‘summer. but it is vastly more pronounced now that women have become more accustomed to the difference, and the corset is even straighter than ever, if possible. It is evidently the one thing to be con- sidered or there is no use to attempt a strictly up-toâ€"date appearance, no matter how elegant your costume may be. The very latest corset model is quite whole in the back like a dress waist, except in the cut, and curves out over the hips. The lacing appears at eith- er side of the front to make sure of no curve there, and it is very\ short above the waist line and very leng below, to give what is called the longâ€" hip effect. One advantage which the new corset possesses is the impossiâ€" bility to lace and unless you are willing to measure three or four inches larger alt the waist line than ever before, it is no use to adopt the new style. In moderation the new style of corset is a. commendable fashion, but if it is carried to the extreme women will walk more like kangaroos than hu- man beings. The value of this corset lies in the fact that it touches noth- ing above the waist line. All the tightening is done about the abdomen where pressure, well applied, is bene- ficial, acting in the nature of asup- port. Thus the lungs are left free, the spinal column erect, and the nor- A Useful Blouseâ€"For spotted or plain velvet, velveteen, plain or fa.n0y glues silk, satin merv, cashmere, French flannels, and such goods, the plastron and band collar of g’uipure lace, mounted over silk or satin. Quantity of Bil-inch velvet. 3 1-2 yards; 22-inch lace. 3-8 yard. ma] action of the body not interfered with. ,A faithful chronicler of the fashions would leave a pleasant duty unfulfill- ed not to chronicle some of the novelty goods on the busiest counters in the shops. There is wool poplin, for inf stance, and crepoline just over from England, and Lyons cords from France and some Irish corduroy that is well worth discussing at length. This is not corduroy, as we have hitherto known and worn it, but a soft, faded leaf green and chestnut brown wool- en goods, having a surface like a French serge, though unlike all serges in that at intervals of an eighth of an inch a green or brown velvet cord is raised on the wool ground work. Very evidently the Irish corduroy is having no difficulty in placing itself among the most favoured goods of the season. A crepoline possibility is shown in the reproduction of a serviceable little street suit in prune color. Very sim- ply, tlie skirt, bolero fronts, collar and cuffs are relieved by a treatment in braids of two tones, which by the way, is a favorite trimming. A flat and rather wide white silk braid is laid on first and upon the edges of this narrow black braid is run, re- sulting in a. simple, but none the less brilliant ornamentation. About the bust and shoulders of this practical little suit a. scarf of black silk Man- churian crepe is draped and drawn in front through a charming gun metal buckle, in which small ame- thysts are sunk. In the costlier sorts of winter wraps the cape will play a bigger figure than it has in recent years. There is prom- ise now that the swell woman‘s show- iest fur will be a cape three quarters length and circular. Then there will be many black velvet capes, some of them freely ornamented with fur, others in which the fur is in such mod- erate quantity that it constitues real- ly a trimming. Bead trimmings will' be used, too, on velvet capes, and there is a possibility that it will develop in the unhandsome encrustings that characterized capes many years ago. Still that may be avoided. Gilt in fine tracery will appear in most of this beading. The length of the stylish cape is sensible, and if cheap follow- ing of the fashion doesn’t result in short capes that leaves a woma n’s arms and all below the bust to freeze, the restoration of the cape won’t be un- welcome. Simplicity in some form is the usual refuge from excessive elaboration and showy effects in dress, and there are evidences already of areaetion which will bring about some most pleasing changes in the way of plainer things, subdued notes of color and less vivid contrasts. One or two lighter or dark- 851' shades of the color in your gown blended tastefully in the trimming, with a very refined touch of gold, sil- ver or steel, supply the latest and a desirable trimming, and if the qual- ity is fine the edges are not turned under. It is used in bands with the edges left raw just as they are cut and stitched on with the machine. This treatment insures the perfectly flat effect, which is so much liked; but the cheaper grades of velvet cannot be :used in this way. Bands of cloth cut with a knife are stitched on in var- ious forms in the same manner, the first row of stitching a sixteenth of an inch from the edge. It is the medium colors, especially the shades of fawn and grey which head the list, with brown and black in the lead for street wear. For evening wear there is no end of fabrics, beautiful in color and exâ€" quisite in texture. Beautiful hand painted crepes will be used largely in fashioning the empire gowns that will be the vogue during the season. These gowns will be fashioned in full e‘m- pire style or will be made in a. modi- . fied form, following the lines of the empire so as to climg gracefully to the figure. One of the crepes which will be made into an empire gown is beautifully painted with a.design of apple blossoms some extending diag- onally from each side half across the breadth and meeting in a point in the center. Heavy Irish and Cluny lace will make another combination for these artistic creations. Light niades of cloth will also be used in these gowns. The paler tints of the wonder- full L’Aiglon will be seen on the handsomest gowns in both crepe and cloth. There is a certain future for soft and furry materials, such as viruzhc to which the most Siberian namm ;‘0'-- sible are given. 'I‘ ovemcnl is. general that ev m an is caug materials A bodice of pale violet :silk trimmed with bands of antique satin of a darker shade. The corsage and sleeve are cut in one piece, the sleeve full below the elbow, is handed close to the arm, with antique satin, and finished with a double cuff headed with satin. The yoke and collar are of white corded silk. the figure perfectly and fall grace- fully a quality that those who make the skirts will appreciate. There is a charming vicuna to which the name of Pyrenees cloth has been given, which is made in all shades of the season. The prevailing shades are old pinks and mordores. When enriched with embroidery it will form the “ chic” costumes par ex- cellence. All the well worn colors, which vary according to the quality of the wool- ens, look delightful in vicuna. All the reds and blues are there, from light to dark; drabs and plum colors are less used. Black cloth will have anâ€" other season; it sets off a woman to such advantage. Fawn voile over blue silk with trans- parent lace yolks and sleeves is ag-ood suggestion for those who want some- thing different from the convention- al bridesmaid dress. Black picture hats lined with blue and bouquets of crim- son roses go well with this scheme. Beautiful gowns may be fashioned from ivory white embroidered voile, made up over white silk with chemiâ€" settes of green chiffon.~ flats of black and green. with atouch of pale yellow matching bouquets of yellow roses, give a novel and pleasing effect. strikingly handsome is the effect of a. group of pretty maidens in white muslin _over white silk with lace in- serted in vandykes and finished with fichus and sashes of pale pink silk. To be perfectly gowned this season is‘ to have. ones plain gowns most severe and the more dressy ones weighed down with trimming as they have not been for years. With the home-coming of the troops from. Africa we see tailor-made cos- tumes, simply plain, but for a dash at the breast, collar and cuffs of the military red, and in waists the but-- tons are of military design. With the fashionable reds and military styles gold in every conceivable form. is much used. Gowns, belts, hats, collars, girdles, all are garnished with gold. The glint of gold is one of the greatest fads for this winter but perhaps it will soon wear itself out. This is also the reason for the military. red shirt waist which. is now so much in evidence everywhere. Short tight, or semi-fitting coats are made very smart, mostly in pale suede or fawn cloth with triple ma- chine-sewn capelets and wide revers. Very smart boleros or Etons are enâ€" tirely of velvet, richly embroidered in shown here is waist made of bright military red, in mili- lary out and style, with two breast pockets and shoulder straps finished with gilt buttons, high-standing miliâ€" tary collar, and fancy gold buttons The jaunty lwn the front. Since the return of ’ ‘ I (50th Africa itn‘csl cuffs of the same fur. These smart little garments are also made in broadtail, Persian lamb, and seal- skin. The storm or Medici collar holds its own. Barrel buttons and cords are much seen, and sleeves have three straps sewn on at the top un- less they are heavily machined by rows of stitching. The perfectly plain skirt, cut so as to (flare very much about the feet, is again a prime favorite. Plain front breadth-s are put into kilted or folded skirts. Many plain skirts de- pend upo-n strapping as ornament; these straps not only trim. the hem but are carried over the hips as .well. Then again, there is the boxâ€"pleated without a plain hip skirt, with: or yoke. The jaulnlty blouse again takes the public fancy and is developed in French flanncls, embroidered and polka dotted Henriettas and various other suitable textures. The sailor collar forms a pleasing adjunct to waists of this description. Many prefer a plain style of bodice that has the merit of showing to red- vantage the correct lines of a well moulded figure. A few of the newer blouses droop slightly in front over the girdle. l silk or jet, with collar and revers o.-‘ ermine or chinchilla, and gauntlet For the neck finishing of the golf, or regulation shirt waist, nothing is more preferable than the plain stock military or a rolling collar. __._.o__..__ UNDER A BARE. POLE. 9-- Queen Vlclorlu Reviewed the Troops Under an l-lm"ly Flagstaff. [When Colonel Higginson attended a review at Aldershot, in 1878, there happened a curious mischance,which he describes in his essay, "The Road to England.” Queen Victoria was to take her stand beneath the flagstaff, and there review her troops. Two solâ€" diers stood ready to 'hoist the flag, and when her majesty’s low straw wagon, drawn by white ponies, apâ€" peared in sight, the signal was giv- en. Up went the flag, and then wrapped itself clumsily about the staff. Her ,majesty drove by, nod- ding and smiling, and when she had passed there were murmurs Iof “LOWS” the flag and try it again.” An. officer g?! fin or.(lei‘Jand down .it came. Till}: it went u]J spmndidly until it r'e-Zched half-mask 3.nd there it stopped. There wasga general groan. ' Twitching- and pulling 361.8 tried in vain. The halyard was 51710de in the block. A soldier advancde to climb the flagstaff, and instajflfl,y the air was vocal with subdued gheerfi The queen was now far away, driw inlg down the long line of soldiers, and there was apparengly plenty M 'time. Up and up went. {he soldier, more and more slowly, Isn't the cheer- Lug died. into a. muffled 'karroun, F the poor fellow stop-pen mm to rest, and then, quite exhausted, slid slowly down, with a. sheepish smile. The flag Was still at half-mast, and the queen was still advancing. There was a pause, a hurried con- sultation, and then came forward a cavalryman, who, as' he stripped off his coat, showed the tattoed arms of a sailor. “ Bless him I" gasped a. lady. “There‘s but just time!" growled her husband. Up went the bui-u uragoon, past the point where his predecessor had fail- ed. Murmurs of approbation swelled louder and louder; but meantime the climber was becoming ominously slow. Ten feet from the top he stuck helpâ€" less, an object of dismay to twenty thousand people. Then he slid slow- ly down, and her majesty was there. It. was she, in reality who with her accustomed tact and good humor, savâ€" ed the day. “Pull down that flag 1” shouted an officer, and the "treat lady reviewed her troops under an empty flagstaff. She had thrown but one light glance at the dreary pole; and then by an added graciousness of manner, seem- ed to cast the entire incident into the background. m LAY OF' THE HEN. The common hen lays about 500 or 600 eggs in years. In the first year the number is only from 10 to L0; in the second, third and fourth yours from 100 to 135 each, and there- after it rapidly diminishes. In the tenth year the ordinary hen lays but 10 to' 12 eggs. - .l,’ :95? HORSE PO‘VER. When one speaks of a one horse power steam engine it is meant that :he engine will raise. it): tons per minâ€" ule through a height of 12. inches. This is twelve times as much as a man could do. “rhea . am Luna's BUBBIES. n AN ARMY or POLICE IN Tani ' WORLD’S METROPOLIS. ‘ _â€" llmoresflng Facts an! Figures (.‘ullrd From the Yearly Reportâ€"How London 11 '” Growlug. -. .f. The report of. Sir Edward Bradford, K, ‘ Commissioner of Police, of London, for the year 1899, issued recently, it brimful of interesting facts and figures. There may be some truth in the saying, "See a policeman, see a public house," for ,of the former there are 15,765 in the metropolis, and of the latter 14,280, which number, if not actually public houses, are, at any rate, all licensed to sell beer, wine: or liquors. It has been found necessary to in- crease the force by 71 new men, but the increase is not put down to the increase of crime, but to the rapid growth of the metropolis. Chicago and other Western States‘ 5 cities have been cited as examples of rapidity of growth, but it is doubt- ful if any city grows as rapidly as does the world’s metropolis. During the year 1899, 27,381 new houses were builtâ€"not to mention 9,- 032 houses in course of construction on‘"uec'e:nber 31st, “1899-;â€" "dfié’mfibkm. Squares formed, making altogether 87 miles 13-1 yards of new streets and squares added to London in 1899. Of the 15,765, comprising the total force, an average of over 500 a day are absent on sick leave, 81 get mixed" I up with runaway horses and got hurt, and 21 while on point duty directing the trafifc, were more or less seri- ously hurt. It is a wonder to many that more accidents do not occur. Accidents in .( the streets during 1899 resulted in 186 persons being killed and the enor- mous number of 8,315 being injured. MURDERERS AT LARGE. Of the murders, of which there were 21, the police were unable to connect anyone with four; but only one of the four is considered of a suf- It SSEWâ€"‘ffiafln a Sunday a teal" ' ' IG‘Jnfif‘ii February, Bertha Russ, a. child “between five and six years of age, disappeared after leaving Sun- day school at East Ham. Two necks after her dead body was found in a cupboard in an unfurnished house in the neighborhood. No bruises nor marks of violence were found on any part of her body, the crime appearing to be absolutely without ma'zive, and the hypothesis of suicide was vetoed by the tender age of the .hild. During the year absent-L‘Jnded poo- ple lost or mlslaid 39,851 articles which were afterwards received at the Lost Property Office. Among the articch were 3,214 purses, 210 watches and 1,55“) p-- ' f jewellery (-f various kinds. 'Ne‘iiriy 59-pgr;cenl-. of the ar- ? ticles received were umbfiifas, .the . I large number of 17,497 hating beefi- """" lost by their owners or lhose who borrowed them. The man with the "sections" jimmy" was busy during the year, 1m: he got more time than money. Th ere were only 447 burglaries committed during the year, each averaging about £10, of which about 6 per cent. was re- covered. ' The "unfortunates" of London num- ber thousands, but only 1,436 of them were unfortunate enough to fall in- to the clutches of the “coppers,” and 198‘o-f them managed to esrape con- viction. *4“..â€" ONE HUNDRED YEARS AGO. A Sailor Was Hungul for Complaining or I the Grub. One lrwndred years ago pocketâ€" picki-ng was, in England, a capital 10f- fehce, where anything worth more than a shilling was taken. There were other 220 offences alt' that: time for which death swnlbences could ‘be passed. Sisr Samuuol R:o-milly, who de- voted himself by pamphlet and parliaâ€" mentary agitatutn to the amelioraâ€" tion of the criminal law, succeeded after great ‘-dilffic:u'lty in getting pocket-picking removed from the list. Very little more than 100 years ago a seamen was hanged for com- plaining of the quality of the: provi- sions. Sevemrty men on board the Named, in Portsmouth Harbor, set out for London to lay their complaint as to the provisions before. the Lords of the Admllllfflli'by. Fifteen of them procured an audience, but were order- ed to be put tn irons and carried back to Portsmouth to be tried by| court- martial for minim-y. They were all sentenced to death, and one was actually hung, the sentences on the other fourteen lzoilmg remitted. In the sixteenth century death sen- tences could be passed for malicious tearing or defacing the garments! of any paint-ion, breaking a bank of a fish- pvmdhoy‘ cuattmg gdonn P tree in an .Urcihard