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tra Jolon ’ id The People Of Kuna Yala As an enthusiastic traveller | have gained a tremendous respect for different cultures and their customs. From the Kikuyu people in Tanzania to the Rapanui of Easter Island, but perhaps the most impoverished | have ever encountered are the Kuna Indians of the Kuna Yala Archipelago. Located in the Caribbean, 200 miles from Central America, the archi- pelago consists of 365 islands, most of which are uninhabited. Getting there from Port Perry is a bit of a chal- lenge, but once you arrive it is as if you have been transported centuries into the past. Ashaky Twin Otter flew me to the island of Playén Chico, a small community of 3,000 inhabitants. Two men, short by our standards, met me and took my suitcase to their worn boat, tied next to the airstrip. One tug of the 15 horsepower outboard and we were off across the Caribbean to 48 FOCUS - APRIL 2010 the mysterious island, which | would call home for the next three days. It was not long before the island came into view. It was smaller than | had imagined and the thatched roofs of the sleeping huts appeared more primitive than | expected. | was greeted by two ladies dressed in the traditional, brightly coloured clothing and soon realized that they spoke little English. | spoke no Kuna so hand signals had to suffice. | was welcomed with smiles and handshakes and was immediately escorted to a small hut on the perim- eter of the island. It is important to note that the land mass was about an acre in size, with three huts perched on stilts at one end. | walked up a few wooden steps and entered the bam- boo structure. To describe it as primitive would be an understatement. There were wide gaps between the poled walls and the windows and door, also made from bamboo, pivoted on a centre point and opened with a push. There were no locks and one light bulb, which was powered by a solar panel. There was a bathroom with shower and | understood there to be a gen- erator, which provided warm water for showers... in the morning. Around one side of the hut was a verandah, to which a hammock was tied and | immediately sank my tired body into the swaying berth, as | over- looked the azure blue waters of the Caribbean. No sooner were my eyes closing when one of the men came to fetch me for lunch. | counted three ladies who worked on the island and lived in the village nearby. They could not do enough to ensure my stay was exceptional. Fruit tasted fresher than | have ever enjoyed and the fish must have been taken from the sea moments before it was prepared. After lunch one of the men asked me if | wanted to visit a nearby island. | nodded and we hopped into the boat and set off. In the distance palm trees came into view, as we approached a small mound sticking out of the ocean. Awhite sandy beach surrounded a grassy centre and huge palm trees shaded the ground from an extremely hot sun. My guide dropped me and held up two fingers, as he smiled, waved and departed. | assumed he would be back to pick me up in a couple of hours and | suddenly knew what Rob- inson Crusoe must have experienced. Swimming in the warm water was. wonderful and resting with a good book under palm trees was priceless. True to his word my guide returned and whisked me back for dinner. He explained that they had caught langosta, which | understood to be baby lobster. Prepared in a mouthwa- tering way, accompanied by a glass of Pinot Gris, | enjoyed one of the finest meals | have ever experienced. The sun set around seven and there was little to do but read and sleep. | was tired so | decided a good night's rest would be just the thing. | made my way to my hut and checked out the mosquito net around the bed. | had not seen any flying insects since my arrival, however, a quick glance around the room brought several geckos into view. | checked the net- ting to make sure ie bed was free from unwanted vi The island where ir was staying, was on the edge of a coral reef and the high waves of the Caribbean smashed loudly against the coral shores. At first | found the novelty of the noise interesting, however, it soon became deafening and would not stop. In the early hours of the morn-