McHenry Public Library District Digital Archives

McHenry Plaindealer (McHenry, IL), 20 Dec 1923, p. 9

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•af-v* .... ;s-f '•'l^r ..^$h"'i &<#* & '*•'. *$• 1*Nfl •c&fc ^$i^"i-p^\ >fc":;v ijfeKT' IBB McKRfEf %j«kw <ip-i Cit.fit of Flotm&i Jeffords Popular Fashion in Paris. Kultitudes of tier* ar« apparent on the new tailored clothes for the winter •eaeon. There is hardly an important Pirto dressmaker who <k>es not use tWs idea more or less, according to a fashion writer In the New York Tribute. In spite of the many flounces the outline remains straight and Skimpy. Some of the great designers feature long tunics that fall straight from the shoulders to the knees, where the widening process begins. Worth has so many of these that they appear - almost like a trademark. Jenny also •bows many of them. Tljgy are usually 's4teltle8S. Callot makes a lovely interpretation of the tiered skirt in a model which Is developed in her favorite blue trimmed with Sight blue, a seemingly old-fashioned and somewhat provincial color 1 Cttfe Ruffled Frock From Cailot With Tassel Trimmings and Cellar and " Cuffs of Cream Laca. combination except under the artistry of Callot. She gives It an early Victorian touch by adding a cream lace collar and cuff bands. This dress is made up of a succession of flounces, each finished with a tiny silk tassel. A similar model from Worth Is a practically stralghtline dress, despite its tiers of flounces, open slightly from shoulder to hemline to show a foundation of white crepe georgette. It, too, Is made up of a multiple of flounces and la trimmed with numerous little tassels. The collar and cuffs are of brown fur, the collar holding In gathers of the bodlc& Frock of Navy Blue Serge. » One of Premet's interpretations of tlM flounced skirt Is named BIKoquet, and it is one of her most popular dresses. The frock Itself is of navy blue serge. Three groups of shaped flounces which trim the narrow sheath fitting skirt are piped with red silk. Premet is showing many youthful styles. She sponsors the straight silhouette with fairly short skirt and either very tow walstllnt or without belt or girdle. Nearly all of lier models have long, tight sleeves. The most Important feature in her-frock Is their filmple boyishnesB. One of the boyish models, destined to repeat the success of "La Garoonne"' of. last season, la developed from navy blue reps with a black suede belt and a red galalith bucltle. Many Parlslennes are ordering this dress for their winter wardrobes. *» Cheruit introduces crinoline basques on tailored suits and petticoat flounc- Ings underneath evening dresses. The newest Cheruit suits are actually stuffed with haircloth over the hips, which causes a wide distention of the circular-cut basqne flaps. On one of these extraordinary crinoline tailored suits, the hoop-like basque of an otherwise straight jacket Is lined with haircloth. The skirt Is as straight as it can be and the Jacket of the simplest cut except for the hip extension. All the smart world has flocked to Biarritz, where the social life changes from that of hotel and casinos to sumptuous villas, set high on the rugged Franco-Spanish coast. Blarrits Is most cosmopolitan. One wonders whether It Is more Spanish than French or whether It Is more and American than either. 8port« Clothes in Evldenca. Each colony vies with the other in the brilliancy of Its entertainments and each set Intermingles freely. The golf club, the bathing beach and Mlremont, t where everyone goes for a "bracer" and a sandwich after the morning dip, are the only public rendezvous. In the Spanish elenyjnt there to a .strong tincture of South American grandees, wealthy people from the Argentine, from Chile and from Brazil. These people are among the most extravagant spenders. Many wealthy South American widows and daughters of wealthy families have married Into the French aristocracy; likewise have rich South American men married titled Spanish, English and French women. Nowhere is this more apparent than at Blarrits. The English queen on the Spanish throne has given proof of happy intermarriage. Thus the social life of Blarrits is like a kaleidoscope of nationality. All pleasure-loving folk find at Blai* ritz a sort of reaction from the tense and artificial life of casinos and hotels In European watering places. They relax into golf, tennis, swimming, horseback riding, and many of the men play polo. The Spanish element, tending toward more exciting sport, leads some of the fashionable crowd to the bull fights, which are given every week in both Bayonne, a small city which touches Blarrits, and at San Sebastian, which is just a pleasant day's run by motor. Then the national Basque game, "pelotte," attracts fashionable crowds, who watch with enthusiasm the marvelous skill of the vigorous Basque peasant as he plays his favorite game. Velvets in Oriental Coloring. Colorful simplicity was the keynote of the Blarrits season. Dresses cot on the simplest lines were made of beautiful printed or embroidered fabrics or were in two-tone or two-color combinations. One got the first peek, t»t Biarritz, of Vlonnet's new printed velvets. Oriental in colorings and design from a standpoint of fabric, but cut ^ in straight coat effect, lapping widely in manteau style. Chanel took numberless orders on high-color prints in "Art Nouveau" Oriental designs, making one think somewhat of the marvelous brocades of the Louis XV period, but with no stint of biiUfeutf color In their reproduction. Paris Designers Stress Brilliant Colors Jenny and Bvnne show many two- [ propriate onl> for gorgeous evening color models, rwttbly white with brilliant flashes of crimson, green and yellow, seemingly almost an accessory, bat In reality a part of the dress. The color was introduced in a straight panel or attached underneath a widely gapping front, or as a cascading flounce, as plaiting nnder the arm, as a lining for a capuclne hood-like arrangement on the back of the dress <and hundreds of times In the form of smartly adjusted printed handkerchiefs or scarfs. In fact, there were many dresses made entirely of printed handkerchief squares or long, printed scarfs. They .were so simple in design that one night easily have thought that the wearer had simply adjusted the handkerchief or scarf herself as a sort of decorative after thought. They had no semblance of being actually made into |the dress. Thus the artistry of handkerchief and scarf adjustment reached Its height. Squally prominent are the wonderful metal brocades forming teagowns. Magnificent lame, erstwhile deemed spmantles, is now used for these luxurious indoor garments. Many of them are thickly wadded and lined with hand-quilted crepe georgette. Most of them have the stuffed border roll of the Japanese garments. In fact, many of them are quite Japanese In form. Chinese effects also are being copied In Indoor garments and there are any number of *Art Nouveau" and Impressionistic designs in embroidery ami prints. In addition to the Indoor garment, which Is frankly a negligee, there are others more or less cermonlous In type which look exactly like gorgeous evening mantles or dainty afternoon dresses. The line between the Intimate garment or so-called negligee and the dress for public use Is very finely drawn. Velveteen Frocks With Psttt Point. Little.block velveteen frocks for the school and college girt are quite charming when they are made very simply and have a touch of petit point embroidery on the single pocket Originality Keynote in Women's Clothes Originality Is as essentlsl In clothes planning for the working woman who wishes to be gowned distinctively and to emphasize her individuality, as for the woman of leisure. For a time every tailored suit, whether It was made by an expensive modiste or bought on the bargain counter of a ready-to-wear shop, was cut along the same general lines. Now some little note of originality is Introduced into even the plainest and most conservative of garments, whether or not they are expensive. Even if the gown or suit is bought from a ready-to-wear shop (and the number of women of Income which patronize these Is legion), and there are many more on the rack like it, the clever woman or girl adds here a touch of fur or a bit of fringe, gives new slant to the drapery, adds rows of braid or Introduces one of the hundred and one little tricks In which women are versed to make her costame look as. In popdlar parlance, "If If: belonged to her." Since the modistes have discovered that something else can be done with fur pelts than make them into stereotype coats, wraps or capes, other fur garments of women have been Intro duced for the winter wardrobe. Of course, there are few women who feel they really can afford a real fur suit, but also there are few, if the money Is In the bank, who can resist the chasm of gray squirrel circular skirt on a gray velvet long-waisted bodice topped by a smart hip-length, straight gray squirrel coat, with a saucy little raffle of the fur at the bottom. Jet Jewelry Imparts Distinction, Jet Jewelry Is popular this season because of the distinction it Imparts to any costume. Earrings, necklace* and bracelets can all be bad In fascinating costume Jewelry. A Stunning Kimono. A stunning kimono is made of black silk embroidered in flowers ranging from white to orange. The kimono la lined with cold colon M' Of Benefit to Producers and Consumers, Says Depart- '•*- meat of Agricultuifc (P»p»r*d by th« Cnlt«d States Department f of Agriculture.) The orderly marketing of farm products that Is proving of direct benefit to both producers and consumers isbeing greatly stimulated by the Improved marketing practices extended by federal market investigators during the past year, the United States Department of Agriculture announces. Among the improvements that have shown the greatest expansion are the Inspection of farm products at shipping points, use of standard grades, Increased use of warehouse facilities under federal supervision, co-operative marketing, and prompt distribution of market news. The shipping point Inspection service enables farmers to have their products Inspected at loading points by state inspectors licensed and supervised by the Department of Agriculture. Co-operative arrangements for such service have been made in 25 states, providing Inspection at more than 000 leading shipping points. Inspections during the past year totaled more than 72,000 cars of fruits and vegetables. Of this number, Inspections in Colorado aggregated 25,000 cars; California was next with 18,000 cars; Idaho, 13,000 cars; Washington, 9,000 cars, and New Jersey, 1,500 cars. Keeps Out Inferior Products. The shipping point inspection service is exerting a large influence In keeping inferior quality products out of the channels of trade. In addition, to providing shippers with an official record that Is recognized in United States courts as prima facie evidence of the condition of the products, the department says. The result Is better use of transportation, better distribution. lower cost of marketing, higher net returns |o farmers, and a higher grade of food to consumers. The service Is also tending to place marketable products on a shipping point purchase basis. » Tentative standard grades were prepared during the year for prunes, apricots, boxed pears and boxed apples, and studies were made looking toward the preparation of grades for sweet peppers. The total number of fruits and vegetables for which grades have been prepared was thus brought up to 17. Approximately 85 per cent of the national potato crop Is now sold on the basis of the federal grades, the department says. The department's aim Is to prepare grades for all farm products so that a common trade language can be evolved that will be understood In all parts of the country. Much confusion that has tended to Increase waste and marketing costs has resulted from the use of a multitude of terms to describe the various grades and quality of farm products. Uas for More Warehouses. There hap been greater use of wsre- I#uses for farm products, and a larger Increase Lri the number of warehouses coming under federal supervision under the terms of the United States warehouse act, than ever before, the department announces. Credit for this healthy development that makes for more orderly marketing as determined by consumptive needs is given largely to the bankers of the country who have Indicated their willingness to lend money to farmers, the loans being secured by warehouse receipts. Demands are pouring In on the department for the licensing of warehouses for products such as potatoes, beans and broomcorn. and work In that direction is now being undertaken. Approximately' 10,000 farmer co-operatlve organizations with a membership of more than 1,000,000 farmers are now actively operating In the United States, the department sayfc As a result of the department's studies of cooperative principles and practices both In the United States and shroud, the nHn^'rt'es <•>' «nr"»"«f»i1 co-operation are now fairly well ndersto «Mi, and tood pi<>uuveu< uil over the country are applying them to their business. The department Is regarded as the leading authority on this subject. the information developed being widely disseminated through agricultural extension services, county agents, and the press. Farmers Keep In Touch. Extension of the federal market newa service by telegraph and radio during the year now makes It possible for farmers anywhere to keep In dally touch with general crop and market conditions. More than 80 radio broadcasting stations dispatch the news over the continent, and by means of a leased telegraph wire system that stretches across the country from Boston to San Francisco into the Southwest and along the Atlantic seaboard, important market flashes are dispatched 12 hours dally from and to the leading market centers for subsequent distribution among farmers and other agricultural interests. Thes# marketing services to fanners have been pandered more effective by the consolidation of the economic work of the department Into the bureau of agricultural economics which includes the former bureau of crop estimates, farm management, and markets. Tiie consolidation of the three bureaus, particularly as regards interted marketing activities, has made itrte an enlarged service extending over the broad field of problems from Xurm organization to the study of retail dlfftributlon. Some Excellent Ways to Get Grapevines Started The grapevine is one of the easiest fruit plants to propagate, according to the horticulturists of an Eastern college of agriculture. Any amateur can grow them at home. For filling a vacancy In a vineyard the easiest aud surest way Is to leave a cane unpruned on a neighboring vine. In the spring lay the vine down and cover with 3 to 4 inches of loose dirt, that part which is In the place where a new vine is designed. By fall the covered part will have produced sufficient root growth to allow the parent cane to be cut away. If several plants are desired the entire cane may be covered with dirt. Nearly every bud will produce a plant. The following spring the plants may be separated with a sharp spade and transplanted. For producing plants In greater numbers, cuttings are used. In the fall canes that grew during the year may be cut Into lengths of two or three buds each. Canes should have the thickness of a pencil with Joints 3 to 0 Inches apart. Cuttings in bundles of 10 or 15 should be burled in the garden with the butt ends up, the ends being covered with 8 or 4 inches of dirt. When freezing weather comes on they may either be placed in moist sand In a cool cave or left outdoors and mulched with straw or other litter. This practice promotes the growth of callous over the cuts. In the spring the canes should be planted In nursery rows 6 or 8 Inches apart In the row, with rows 2% or 3 feet apart, one bud being left right at the surface of the ground, the other underground. Apple Trees Need Plant - / . Food for Proper Growth Apple trees on thin upland or other poor soil are likely to need fertilizing. For such orchards, F. H. Ballou, associate horticulturist, Ohio experiment station, recommends the application of a mixture of equal parts of nitrate of soda or sulphate of ammonia, and acid phosphate: He would apply these fertilisers very early In the spring Just as the buds begin to swell. For a poorly nourished twenty-year-old apple tree, about ten pounds of the mixture la suggested. This Is scattered evenly In a circle beneath and a little beyond the branches, but keeping a few feet away from the base of the tree. For trees from five to ten years of age applications of from three to five pounds are recommended. Fruit trees covered with a rich darkgreen foliage and large twig growth probably need very little nitrogenous plant food. Cost of Marketing Hogs by Co-Operative Scheme Terminal cl&rges, such as commission. yardage and feed, amount to about one-third of the total cost of marketing hogs by co-operative shipfling associations. The United States Department of Agriculture recently made a study of 237 llvqyfstock shipping associations in the Middle West, and found that there Is considerable variation in the shipping costs between organizations of shippers. Anyone Interested In studying the complete findings of the Investigations may obtain them by writing for the report, Costs of Marketing Live Stock In the Com Beit--1821. Copies are sent free. HOG CHOLERA DIFflCULT TO CONTROL •smav! n(C. if fThe ^Daddy of Them oAll9* F)RTY years ago its reliability greater convenience began teach* rag hand writers the wo rid over thai fountain pen habit. Today the constant need for Water* man's Ideal by every man, woma and child makes it the most use and most wanted present that money will buy. Waterman dealers everywhere are ready to aid you in making an appro* priate selection* 230 m $50°® Easy to buy -- Easy to tend |. E. Waterman Company No. 52 191 Broadway, New York RX JJ IfcSthed Co IP.n & P« *3» Worthless Land Reclaimed. Over 6,000 acres of formerly worthless, unhealthy marsh lands just south of Rome, Italy, have been reclaimed and brought under cultivation. First Treaties on Poison. The first treatise on the science w poisons was written by Orfila. a French toxlcologlst, aud was published during the first quarter of ths teenth century. No one has figured nut what a graft percentage of_ the Joy oC life consist* In "going. None Is wealthy but the a/flu soul. Kind words not only batter parsnips, but they win fortunes. Matrimony has spoiled many friendships. Fish Fed by Blsctrlcity. Fish are being fed by electricity at the Kansas City hatchery. Large light bulbs are placed at the edge of the fish ponds and moths, millers and other insects are attracted by the light The water beneath the lights Is soon covered with the insects which the fish devour eagerly. The greatest world War of all has been going on for ages, /it Is the struggle betweeu man and the myriad tribes of Insects to domlnkte the world, and It Is a much closer contest than most persons sup-£f pose. Consequently feeding these enemies tb t\iti fish benefits man In two ways.--Capper's Weekly. COFFEE ARRIVES BY WATER Chicago.--The arrival recently of a cargo of coffee at the Clark street dock of Held, Murdoch h Co., marked^ the first of such shipments coming to! Chicago by water from the South American coffee plantation^ The firm purchased the coffee in Colombia, transported it by mule to? Qlrardot and thence entirely by water; from this point In the Interior of South America to the heart of North America where it was unloaded at the docks of the company In Chicago. •;This marks a distinct advance over the former methods of transporting coffee and has affected a material saving in cost. , In the future practically all coffee will be shipped to Chicago by water from Colombia, said John MacMahon, vice president of the company. •fountain Going Up in Imoka. A huge mountain of coal In the storage yard of the Canadian National railways at Bridgeburg, Ont., which has been harboring a smouldering fire In its center for the last two weeks has burst into flame. Officials estimated there were 150,000 tons of coal in the pile. Fire fighters have hesitated to mount the smouldering mountain, fearing a cave-ln would precipitate them into the glowing core. Sanitation and Preventive ^nt!"0Lmea8Urt's- The ,088es *»<>««<* wu 'for last year are not so great as In Serum Are Urged. (Trtptrad by lie UDlled State* Department of Agriculture.) Approximately 4 per cent of the bogs on farms in the United States died of hog' cholera last year. This appraisal of the ravages of hog cholera Is made by the bureau of animal Industry, United States Department of Agriculture, for the year ended April 80, 1923, and is based on estimates of the bureau of agricultural economics. Losses were heaviest In Iowa, Nebraska, Indiana, Missouri, Illinois, Ohio, Georgia, Minnesota, and South Dakota In the order named. Each of these states lost more than 100,- 000 head of swine from the disease during the year, assuming that 80 per cent of the deaths from all causes among hogs is due to cholera. The total number of swine lost from bog cholera exceeded 2,250,000, valued at approximately $29,383,000. The highly contagious nature of hog cholera makes the disease difficult to control. The preventive serum treatment combined with strict sanitation and thorough disinfection of premises 1913 and 1914 when the disease appeared particularly prevalent, but they were larger than department experts consider they should have been considering that swine growers have a preventive treatment which Is effectual, If qsed properly before the animals become sick. Dead Leaves Make Fine ~ Fertilizer for Garden The dead leaves which seem to be lying everywhere at this time of year can be puf to a double use. If raked and stored In a dry place they make excellent scratching material for the hens or bedding for stock, after whic^ they make the best of fertilizer. Or alternate layers of leaves, chicken mannre and dirt in barrels, will make a valuable fertilizer for tiie garden. Important Culling Point. One of the most Important points to observe in the culling of hens Is the distance between the pin hones If a hen Is a non-layer you will fin*1 the skin between the pin bonea to be firm, hard and wrinkled, drawing tlw after outbreaks, are the most effective| p in bones closely together. Cutlcura for Pimply Faces, . To remove pimples and blackheads smear them with Cuticura Ointment. Wash off in five minutes with Cutlcura Soap and hot water. Once clear keep your skin clear by using them for daily toilet purposes. Don't fail to include Cuticura Talcum. Advertisement London's Population Grows. ft had been estimated that the Increase of London's population during and since the World war is no less than 600,000. Vast numbers were attracted from the proviuces by the lure of plentiful employment and high wages. Now. having acquired the taste for London, they do not return, even though employment Is not now plentiful and wages are not what they were. IN Demand ^ynuunz BAYER ASPIRIN-Insist Unless you see the "Bayer Cross" on tablets you are not getting the genuine Bayer Aspirin proved safe by millions and prescribed by physicians 23 years for Colds Headache Neuralgia Lumbago Pain Toothache Neuritis Rheumatism Accept only "Bayer" package which contains proven directions. Handy "Bayer" boxes k IS tablets Also bottles of 24 and 100--Druggists. WARNTttr- Gentffiie "Bayer Aspirin" is never sold in VV A r\ IN 1 IN v_J. stores, bars or cafes. Go to Drugstore. Aftplrln u Um trmda mark of Barer Iftnofaetoi* of llMMMttleacldMtcr of 8*ilcjllr»tM "CASCARETS" FOR LIVER AND BOWELS--10c A BOX Cures Biliousness, Constipation, Sick Headache,Indigestion. Drugstores. Adr Highest Point In U. 1 II* highest point In the United States, Mount Whitney, 14,501 feet Above sea level. Is within plain view from the lowest point In the United States, Death valley, which la 276 feet below sea lev^L CONSTIPATION Take a good dose of Carter's little Liver Pffls --then take 2 or 3 for a few nights after. They cleanse your system of all waste matter and Regalate Tour Bowels. Mild-as easy to take as sugar. GcmAm Uar afcMfaw-- Small Pill. Small Dose. Small Price. to relieve a corn Take your choice and suit your taste. S-B--or Menthol flavor. A sure relief for coughs* colds and hoarseness. Put cms in your mouth at bedtime. At**-a,vs km*p m box an hit rid. SMITH BROTHERS SB. COUCH DROPS BS ESS fhmoM nn fMqfsspMsa^p r- • ~ ' ^ •SSrajMftT -V?' lift;* i."gir jftfiiir"* iM. • ~;S <F\ 5>- . 4-1 '

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